IL Leudo by SHIPSCAT (Jolene) - Mamoli - scale 1:34

[SHIPSCAT]

44 minutes ago, src said:

(isopropyl

Hello Sam

Got it from Bunnings yesterday when I got my mini files.

 

Jo.

[src]

And she is off buying tools. She is hooked. Next it will be the Darkside of scratch building.

 

Carl, I was making a pun off of your spirits pun by calling you a very "Punny" as apposed to "Funny" person.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pun

Alas, my pun fell flat on its face due to language. Please dont Aikido-chop me. 😁

Sorry to hijack your log Jo, back to you.

 

Sam

[Altduck]

Hi, Jo

I'm just going thru your log, and first of all - congratulations - your ship is now officially under construction.

Sorry there are problems right out of the box, but you seem to be taking them in stride, and wiser folks than I are giving good advice.

I looked for Bindy's log to see if she had the same issues, and it seems to have vanished.  There is a photo album of a completed model, but apparently no actual build logs.

And the one referenced above on another site looks like maybe a later edition with laser cut pieces so may not have the same issues.

But the good news is that when you get yours done, it will be without question the very best Il Leudo build log on the forum!

Good Luck with it

 

[SHIPSCAT]

Hi again Gals and Guys

 

Ok I took the advice and took it all apart.

This is how far it is out according to the plans.

 

Now I don't know if what I am going to do is right or not.

This is what I have been thinking about, try and unglue the parts, then put a piece of wood by the blue lines in a V shape this I hope will push the top over, see red arrow.

 

Any other suggestions before I completely destroy the wood.

 

Jo.

 

[marktiedens]

Excellent plan - that would appear the correct way to fix it.  Just take your time getting the glue joint undone.  A very sharp & thin chisel may help with the joint.

 

Mark

[Altduck]

Looks like you may have to take a similar wedge shape off the bottom of the front of 16 where your pencil match mark is, too.  When you get the part loose and lay it on the plan, should be clear how much to add and cut for best fit.

 

To be more clear, part 16 already covers the line that represents the curved stern, and the blue wedge will in effect lengthen the keel by the width of the fat end of the wedge.  A better fit may result from taking a bit off the keel and/or the vertical edge of 16.   

 

You’ll know when you lay them on top of each other as needed to line up with the drawing and analyze the overlapping edges of the 2 parts.

Edited March 25, 2019 by Altduck

[Louie da fly]

Jo, you can get isopropyl alcohol at Woolies -I got mine from the health and beauty section (where the antiseptic creams are). It's in a little green plastic bottle (75ml) with the brand name Isocol. Cost me something over 5 dollars.

 

It works on PVA glue, but I don't know, however, if it'll dissolve the Titebond you're using. Original Titebond is PVA, so isopropynol will work on it; I don't know about Titebond II or III.

 

Steven

 

[Edit] Oops - looks like I was too late with the advice about Woolies - If I'd checked previous posts Id have found out you'd already bought some!

Edited March 28, 2019 by Louie da fly

[mtaylor]

Jo,

I think that once you get it apart, I'd sand/file slowly and carefully and checking often, the area in part 16 where the keel sits.  The other photos look like the keel is pretty square so just a bit fine tuning the stern post.    I'd start by rotating part 16 on the plans and then mark where the keel notch needs to be filed and do the filing.

[src]

Jo,

In addition to what the others said I think if I was doing this I would lay part 16 on the plans and secure it in some way; push pins, tape something to keep it from moving about. The I would carefully lay your keel on top of that and carefully line it up to the plans and secure it with pins, tape etc. Then with your sharpest hobby blade scalpel or razor knife trace the overlap. That will give you exactly what you need to remove. That will give you a cut line. From there carefully trim away the excess and finish with a file right to the line. You may find you have to add material down at the bottom also.

Best of luck.

Sam

[SHIPSCAT]

21 hours ago, src said:

Darkside of scratch building

Hello Sam

Dark side "a"☠️ the only thing I scratch is my head over this kit 🤣.

 

Jo.

[SHIPSCAT]

Hello all.

 

After taking the parts apart I found after putting them on the plans that I did not have to make a V shaped piece of wood.

In fact I had to file some off part 16.

 

It looks like I have to file down to the blue line as this looks a bit too high.

 

It amazed me that taking only a little bit off part 16 can move the top over by about 5mm.

 

Jo.

 

[pontiachedmark]

Gidday Jo.

Fantastic result.

I knew you would find a resolution.

If you maintain a positive attitude " She'll be apples".

All the best.

Mark.

[SHIPSCAT]

Hi Mark

Thank you for your kind remarks 😉.

Now for the next step.

 

Jo.

[src]

Jo,

Congrats on solving your first challenge! It is amazing what a slight misalignment can cause. Before you trim you might want to dry fit your bulkheads and run your batten strips again, that blue trim line may extend a bit further than you show.

 

Sam

[SHIPSCAT]

Good morning Sam

 

Will do.

The strip that goes down the frames don't fit so have to file the slots out a bit.

 

Have to go out today back about 4.00pm, my boss is back for a day 😉.

 

Jo.

 

 

[mtaylor]

I'm smiling at the re-work.    As for the "blue line", hold off until you get the bulkheads installed and can check the "flow" across the top to it.  Better to wait and see than wonder how to put the wood back if it needs to be there.  It does appear that the "slot" is also too high but... I'd hold off as long as possible and check the fit after the bulkheads go on.

[cog]

Well done Jo

[Louie da fly]

I agree with Mark. Hold off doing anything drastic until you can check that it's right (from bitter personal experience - far too many times).

 

Steven

[SHIPSCAT]

Hello all

 

After looking at the part 16 + the wooden strip that goes down the centre of all the frames.

I have had to file down to the blue line as the wooden strip (green) has to slot into part 16 (see left end of green line).

 

I now have to file most of the frame slots out as the 3mm x 2mm wooden strip don't fit.

 

Jo.

 

[SHIPSCAT]

Hello all

 

Well another mistake from the kit makers.

Part 10, the slot has been cut wrong, when you put it on the keel it leans over.

 

Looks like I will have to file it down so it is vertical on the keel.

 

Good job I am not a person that gives up that easy.

 

I have to say that it is not a good advert for some one that is just starting out building wooden ship models.

 

Jo.

 

[BenF89]

40 minutes ago, SHIPSCAT said:

 

I have to say that it is not a good advert for some one that is just starting out building wooden ship models.

 

 

The bright side is that once you get through this build, you’ll have a real knack for improvisation, and future builds will be a breeze!

[mtaylor]

"Adapt, improvise, and overcome" is the philosophy and spirit to have.   

[pontiachedmark]

Gidday Jo.

You have learnt one important lesson, that is fitting parts "dry".

Overcoming the poor quality of the laser cutting will put you in good stead for future builds.

I admire your perseverance and positive attitude.

I wish you all the best.

Mark. 

[cog]

As time evolved, the wood quality of the models decreased (not only for wooden ships). Lasercutting only made things look easier.

 

You should realise you didn't start a jigsaw which you've found out by now, but besides the manual in the box, you've got a "walking" knowledge base at your feet here at msw. Use it to your advantage, and your build will be a lot of fun

[SHIPSCAT]

9 hours ago, cog said:

Use it to your advantage, and your build will be a lot of fun

Hello all.

 

Thank you all for your comments and help + likes.

@cog thank you also I do intend to take advantage of all of the advice on this forum 😀.

 

Jo.

[src]

On 3/30/2019 at 5:27 PM, mtaylor said:

"Adapt, improvise, and overcome" is the philosophy and spirit to have.   

That's a great way to approach life in general I have found. You can look at a situation as a challenge to overcome or a roadblock that permanently stops you cold, the choice is yours. How did you overcome the "Leaning Piece of Bulkhead"? A good SHARP chisel will make short work of that as will a file.

Sam

[SHIPSCAT]

HELLO ALL.

 

I have started the gluing of the frames yippeeeeeeeeeeeee

BUT as the instructions are very vague (useless) I had to do some thinking, OK you guys we do think sometimes 😀.

 

As frames 4 - 11 only have about 15mm slots to hold them in place and square, so I have already mentioned that the frames on the top of them have slots that a 2mm x 4mm wooden strip runs down the centre of them.

 

So the idea I came up with was dry fit the last frame 13 as this has about 40mm slot in it and will be very stable, then I started gluing the frames one by one dry fitting the 2mm x 4mm wooden strip as I go, this will keep the frames in a central position till the glue dries.

 

This is the start of gluing the frames.

 

Jo.

[BenF89]

Nice work!

 

I like the lego for scale. Even we “adults” play, er, I mean ‘model’ with legos sometimes!

[src]

Nice start Jo. Those legos can do double duty as squaring blocks. a couple of clothes pins (laundry pegs?) as a clamps and you have a nice surface to clamp against.

 

Now, whats with the champagne??? You keep telling us you're a coffee and tea kind of gal. If your going to crack the bubbly you have to share. 😀

 

Sam

[SHIPSCAT]

1 hour ago, src said:

whats with the champagne

Sam it's sparkling water 😀.

 

Jo.