HMS Victory 1805 by DarkAngel - Corel - 1/98

[mtaylor]

And you're off and building!   Cool.  I'll tag along.

[yacht1255]

Thank you for the article

[DarkAngel]

You're welcome Yacht1255.

 

Tag along indeed Mark, and feel free to comment or provide advice

 

Deck planking

 

notes: from taking a look at photo's of the HMS Victoria top deck I have calculated there are about 21 planks either side of the middle plank.

 

The deck plank strips I have are 4mm wide and the top deck is 113mm at the widest point. Therefore to be accurate to the correct number of planks across the top deck I have trimmed the strips to about 2.7mm and cut to 60mm lengths which is roughly the size of the 6-7m deck plank lengths of the original HMS Victory.

 

Here's a mock up of the new deck sizing with a top deck cannon in the Corel 1:98 scale kit.

 

Also tried the sharpie pen for the caulking method. I also like the way the dark background also highlights the gaps in between the planks. These planks are just sitting in place, with a little bit of stick I am sure to get them more precise with less gaps as they move after being touched with other planks in these pics.

 

Other considerations include aging the wood. Going to consider a graying effect perhaps like the original and probably finish the surface with a quick scrape of a sharp flat of the razor blade.

Edited June 20, 2019 by DarkAngel

[Dan Vadas]

Regarding the "Sharpie" you are using for the planking edge colouring - see if you can get one of these. It is an Archival Ink pen available from most art supply stores, Officeworks or on-line which doesn't bleed into the timber like any other pen I've tried and is also waterproof, which won't smear when you apply PVA glue. Get the "Brush" size and use the side of the nib to apply the ink.

 

 

Also - the end join between planks should also be "caulked".

 

Danny

[DarkAngel]

Top Deck planking

 

While I am working on the hull, I have taken a break to have a go at planking the top deck using the 4 plank system and historical planking notes others have used for the HMS Victory build.

 

Plank size for the 1:98 Scale HMS Victory. length 70mm, width (max) 3mm, thickness 0.5mm approx.

 

Steps taken

• I drew horizontal line measurements of 14mm across the top deck false floor to calculate the positioning of decking
• Found the center vertical line of the deck and marked the position of a center plank 4mm width and running the entire length of the top deck separated only by the mast hole.
• Used a marker to add a caulking line along one long edge and the ends of the planks.
• Glued them onto the top deck false floor one row at a time wiping off excess PVA as I went, ensuring all the planks lined edge was on the same side.

 

This is my first attempt... a couple of planks could be replaced to tidy up the appearance where there are gaps

Edited June 24, 2019 by DarkAngel

[EJ_L]

One thing I would caution on when planking the decks before installation is that the upper posts of the false bulkheads are often far thicker than the bulkhead thicknesses would be on a ship. This leads to them needing to be cut down to fit withing the inner planking. When they are cut down, they leave bare spots int eh deck planking that will need to be covered. I would recommend only planking to within one or two rows of planks before the notches in the decks for those posts. Then, after the decks are installed, and the bulkheads set, you can plank to the edges to create a seamless pattern. If you are unsure what I mean, look at my Royal Louis build as I am doing that very thing right now.

 

I will also recommend collecting the sawdust created from sanding. You can use it to mix with diluted white glue as a filler for some of the smaller gaps. Sawdust and glue can be a lifesaver in closing up small defects.

[DarkAngel]

Thanks EJ for the heads up   I am now a follower of your latest build.

 

Hull update

Here a few picture's which indicate my progress on the hull thus far...

June 29th : Saturday, finished cannon backing and painted black to add shadow within cannon hatches for later.

Edited June 29, 2019 by DarkAngel
added hull update

[DarkAngel]

Gun Port Hatches

 

The Corel kit comes with cast metal gun port hatches, these are set to sit on the outside of the hull. However the HMS Victory's gun port hatches are flush with the hull. So I am thinking of using the hatch and frame together as an open hatch and having a larger square hole in the hull to accommodate the larger sized hatch. I think this is closer to the original and gives a more heavy duty effect to the hatch thickness.

 

Any thoughts from the peanut gallery

 

pic's below

 

           (above) Front view, (below) Back view

 

edit. Now I am looking at these images, I'm thinking the hatch without the surround would look more like the original ship.

Edited June 27, 2019 by DarkAngel

[mtaylor]

I think you're right on the just using the hatches.   I suspect that when you decide to mount the hatches, you'll end up scratch building them.  It's the little things that suck us into the "dark side" as it's called. 

[Vane]

Well, I used the whole assembly on my Victory. Its not accurate, but its the design of the model. I dont think it look bad, especially if you paint it. 

[DarkAngel]

hi Vane

 

Thanks for your input, feel free to add a pic of your painted HMS Victory if you wish. It would be good to see another Corel model completed.

[EJ_L]

There is no truly right or wrong answer as ultimately the models final appearance is what you are most satisfied with and what you feel you can build. Time, money, materials, tools and modeling skills all come into play. Personally, I stopped using any of the cast fixture a long time ago and have lately even begun to phase out the cast decorative carvings in favor of making my own. I won't sugar coat it, it is very difficult, frustrating and exhausting, not to mention it adds hundreds of hours to a build. While my own skills leave a lot to be desired when I compare myself to other people, at the end of the build, I am much more satisfied with my model, and that, like I said is the most important part of the hobby. As Mark put it, I have crossed over to the "dark side" and am now lost. Like everyone, I did not start my first build that way, (in fact my first wooden ship is very rough in many ways) and am always learning and growing. 

 

On a first build and especially one of this size, using the cast pieces may be to your advantage. Just look at what it will take to adjust the frames or build new ones that will allow the lids to recess into the hull for a flush fit. If you are planning on having the lids in the open position, no one will know if they close flush or not. Sometimes the simplest solution is the best.

[Vane]

Unfortunately my Victory is on the other side of the world... this is what i could find in my phone. when i get back Home from my vacation i Will add lots of photos in my buildlog.

[Vane]

As EJ_L said, lots of factors play in when deciding what to do. Personally, I am just aiming at finalizing my Victory kit. It dont need to be an accurate model. Maybe in the future i will go over to the dark side as well but I dont have those skills yet. 

[DarkAngel]

Vane: Thanks for the pic  looks like you have a few other ships in your dry dock too.

 

Enlarging Port Hatches

 

I haven't seen a good closeup of the Corel HMS Victory cannon hatches. Your pic is just what I was looking for. The hatches seem a lot smaller than the real thing, that is the opening around the cannon is quite restrictive. I think I'm going to go for a walk on the 'Dark Side' and redo the hatches a bit bigger. This affects where I am now because I am planning on adding port liner frames to the hull before I start the hull planking.

 

Just found some nice wood (maple) kicking around in storage, so I'll use that. I can try out my new razor saw and split the wood up into 5mm x 5mm custom lengths to fit in between the bulkheads.

 

Also I am curious of the height of the waterline, going by eye at this stage and using a mini laser level. Does anyone have any suggestions for working out how high on the hull the waterline should be?

 

Rear Cabin

 

Well it's already started. I have begun to reassess the rear cabin area and had a go at carving the piece supplied in the kit with my new modeling knives. I also have excess material from trimming down the deck planks to about 3mm, these thin offcuts I shall use on the rear cabin end for adding extra framing to the decorations on the outside. They seem to be the perfect size, just need to layer them up 2 or 3 thick in places as they are only 0.4 mm thick.

 

• Carving layers into the plywood rear end cabin template provided to give more depth like the original
• Cutting corners into the window spaces as they are quite rounded, filing edges
• Considering putting a slight curve to the cabins instead of being dead flat
• Adding two more thin layers internally to build up windows and framing inside
• Thinking about using clear perspex or plastic for window panes and adding an internal led light for nighttime illumination. However would also need to consider the ships external lamps at the back

I'll update a pic of the rear cabin section raw carving when it's finished a bit later on when the layering, carving part is complete.

July 29th : Sat, here's an update of a work in progress. Base paint layer down, needs overpainting with yellow ochre on decorations and window framing. Still building up layers of wood trim, Window panes to go behind this facade.

 

Also thinking about repositioning sections #22, #23 and #24 to allow framing behind to fit out of sight of open windows.

Edited June 29, 2019 by DarkAngel

[Vane]

There are plenty of pics of Victory models on this page. But unfortunately for us, very few builds on the Corel version. Most buildlogs on it seem to have stopped. 

 

[DarkAngel]

Does anyone know a good source for obtaining LED lights to illuminate tall ships ?

[mtaylor]

Probably the best way is to Google for the LED's just add color, size, and maybe voltage (optional on the voltage) to the search line.

 

Edit:  Here's a source:  Evan Designs Of LaPorte Co.   Dan Evens is building a steamship.  Here's the relevant part:  

 

[DarkAngel]

Ok thanks Mark, that's better than scrolling through 1000's of inappropriate search results on google.

 

Updates

 

Post's updated with pics to indicate progress

• Hull Build post #37  link
• Cabin carving and Build post #45 link

Edited June 29, 2019 by DarkAngel

[DarkAngel]

Aged Decking

 

I tried the tea, vinegar and steel wool method to oxidise the wood to an aged gray color.

 

Compare these pic's with the earlier deck pics above

 

 

Quite happy with the results, I'm thinking of leaving the decking outside in the sun to encourage further graying

Edited July 1, 2019 by DarkAngel
typo

[DarkAngel]

18 hours ago, Wallace said:

I likethe look of that deck sir, nice job. 

Thanks Wallace, I must say I got the idea after reading your blog

 

Do you think the wood will grey further as time passes ? Now that the process has begun.

[Jonesey]

Quick question for you DA

 

When you came to fit the 2 long beams that run front to back, did you narrow the beam or widen the slots?

Mine are a good 3/32 too wide currently

 

I'm just getting back to work on the Vic after 4 years in a state of hiatus

 

Thanks

 

[DarkAngel]

31 minutes ago, Jonesey said:

Quick question for you DA

 

When you came to fit the 2 long beams that run front to back, did you narrow the beam or widen the slots?

Mine are a good 3/32 too wide currently

 

I'm just getting back to work on the Vic after 4 years in a state of hiatus

 

Thanks

 

Good question Jonesy

 

The 2 long beams that strengthen the hull in my box were warped, Luckily they were only warped one way and I used the warp angle to be the down side of the wood when I tried pressing them into place.

 

I found them a bit of a tight fit, but with a whack of my fist they actually went in most of the bulkhead slots... so I whacked them some more and found them reluctantly going in. They weren't positioned well because I was just testing the fit... so I took them out with a bit of effort from the easy end first and then noted a few bulkheads on the hard side needed a bit of filing down. The fibres in the wood can sometimes make it hard to fit, even when lasercut, so smoothing the edges of the cuts with a file is always a good idea anyhow,

 

Second fitting I made sure the lengths were flush to the ends of the bulkheads and put the warped wood in the same way with the warped curve going down. Then I decided to commit, whacking them in after aligning each bulkhead so the grooves were lined up. Then I looked around for my rubber mallet and settled with an old file with a flat end and pounded the wood into place. 

 

I think I needed to file a bit on the front end of one bulkhead groove to help it in a little better. It went in pretty tight, however that made the hull really firm and strong and the deck still lined up ok as there is a bit of give ontop of each bulkhead.

[Kevin]

Good start to your build, i have recently finished the victory, but the caldercraft version,  as you can see there are plenty around to offer advice if reqired 

[DarkAngel]

Hey Kevin,

 

The Caldercraft Victory is like the greatest model build ever. You are a lucky man. Maybe I'll do it too one day if I get sponsored by the local library or something

[Kevin]

Maybe the amarti by chris watton will come out one day

[EJ_L]

For those support beams, either modification is acceptable. What matters is that the bulkheads remain square to the false keel. I will usually glue the beams to the bulkheads so that I know that the remain square. As noted above, the bulkheads themselves have some wiggle room and/or flex to them especially at extremities. Ensuring that those edges remain true during planking can help in keeping the planking even on both sides of the hull.

 

 

[Jonesey]

Thanks guys

 

I've spent the evening widening every single slot and the beams now fit snugly into them

 

I'll follow this up on my own build log rather than hijacking Dark Angels

[DarkAngel]

July update

Here is a beginning of the month update on where I am, I'll try to include a beginning of the month update each month to show where I am at

 

Last night I was considering greying the deck further, so I tried a small sample to take a look and see. I used acrylic titanium white paint with just a tiny hint of black added. Then I thinned down the paint with lots of water until it flowed enough to carry the color pigment. Painted on, and before it dried, I put a bit more water on the brush and painted over again, then wiped it off leaving the wood aging previously visible underneath and adding an opaque light graying... what do you think ? (check out the top deck top section on the 3rd pic)

 

I'm not sure which way I'll go yet, the gray looks ok but makes the model look like it's been weathering in the sun for a few hundred years... lol

 

I think I prefer the non graying,, just the aged timber effect.

 

Also finished reinforcing the bulkheads with the cannon backing sections, I left the decks on the whole time to ensure a good fit and shape of the bulkheads and the decks. Here are some pic's of the next stage.

 

1. Marking out the center line and 14mm graduations for my planking size
2. Put down a center plank line to work out from
3. Curving the decks and pva gluing onto the beams.
4. Once deck is curved, I shall complete deck planking

 

Aged Wood method

1. mix vinegar and torn fine steel wool overnight,
2. brew some strong tea and paint tea on the decking
3. After tea has dried, paint on vinegar and steel wool solution
4. wait until it dries
5. repeat as necessary
6. lightly scrape wood to finish
7. Also I like to use the 0000 steel wool to smooth off the wood to a nice polish

Edited July 2, 2019 by DarkAngel

[DarkAngel]

Shipwrights Journal

 

Build Plan Calendar

 

July

 

• Complete decking with aged wood appearance
• lower deck to have less aging visible
• complete port lining framing for cannon hatches before planking hull 
• Plank hull 

Edited July 2, 2019 by DarkAngel