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HMS Diana by Vane - Caldercraft - Scale 1:64


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5 hours ago, SpyGlass said:

I started Diana way way  back - then had my heart attack ( not related ) but  I so regret I never got beyond the dry fit !

Good luck  with her

Its actually quite different to work on Diana when I gotten used to my Speedy build. Everything is so large and instead of finetuning various tiny PE pieces I got to do "hard" woodwork with real tools... both kits have their charm but in completely different ways. Perhaps you can restart the work on your Diana if you not feel comfortable with the MDF. 

Current builds: HMS Victory (Corel 1:98), HMS Snake (Caldercraft 1:64), HMBV Granado (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Diana (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Speedy (Vanguard Models 1:64) 

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15 minutes ago, Wahka_est said:

What you use to get gunport edges sharp and neat-diamond files?

Actually i have ordered new diamond files that are arriving tomorrow.  Perhaps they will be up for the task.  Otherwise i think there will be a combination of tools from various knifes, small razorsaws to files.

Current builds: HMS Victory (Corel 1:98), HMS Snake (Caldercraft 1:64), HMBV Granado (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Diana (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Speedy (Vanguard Models 1:64) 

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23 hours ago, Vane said:

Actually i have ordered new diamond files that are arriving tomorrow.  Perhaps they will be up for the task.  Otherwise i think there will be a combination of tools from various knifes, small razorsaws to files.

Through trial and error, I found that a brand new x-acto blade to gently carve away the excess was the best tool for me (taking off little by little) - sanding just caused tear out on one side or the other... But I didn't have nice new diamond files, so you may have a better experience.

Something to watch out for... I think there were a few places that the gunports meant there was no support for the internal (and external?) planks in between the ports (they did not land on any of the frames) - you may want to check and support those places before you drill them out. I simply packed some strip in to provide support to the planks above and below.

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The gunports will take some time. Alot of measuring, carving and filing to get this right.

 

20200912_211637.thumb.jpg.1865bef4f5772e837f16b32595a38347.jpg

I will deviate from the instructions and try to make the ports parallell to the deck so the 18 pounders sets nicely in the middle. I didnt use the template simply because its complete square and that dont go well with her lines.

 

20200912_211716.thumb.jpg.d92cb1c4823edf97a825e8bb8bdceab0.jpg

 

Current builds: HMS Victory (Corel 1:98), HMS Snake (Caldercraft 1:64), HMBV Granado (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Diana (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Speedy (Vanguard Models 1:64) 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Glad to catch up on more progress on your Diana.  Good decision to do the gun ports correctly, you'll be much happier I think.   That last shot really shows off the great work on your deck - one of my struggles is finding more decent maple to do the upper decks.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks Jason, sorry for late reply but last months I not really been logging in since I have been focused on my plastic models. Hope to pick this up soon. I am not anywhere near coppering yet but I just received a package from Cornwall model boats with the Amati plates (UK is about to leave the EU and there will probably be more expensive to get supplies after that). When I compare my Speedy with my Snake, I realise that the Caldercraft copper will not work on the Diana.   

Current builds: HMS Victory (Corel 1:98), HMS Snake (Caldercraft 1:64), HMBV Granado (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Diana (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Speedy (Vanguard Models 1:64) 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have deviated from the original plans and now the big question is if I will regret this later on?

 

I simply extended the inner walls fully to the front for a cleaner look inside. This area is not that visable but according to the plans, there are no inner walls for the last 15cm where the hull start to turn. 

 

The full width of wall gets abit thicker due to the gap increases between the layers. So the question is what will look best? With or without innerwalls?

 

If I keep the innerwalls i guess the canons wont stick out as much here.  

20201218_221017.jpg

20201218_221038.jpg

Edited by Vane

Current builds: HMS Victory (Corel 1:98), HMS Snake (Caldercraft 1:64), HMBV Granado (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Diana (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Speedy (Vanguard Models 1:64) 

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Check with a gun carriage and gun and change if necessary. Your post Vane makes me realize that I have made the same mistake on my Agamemnon but my mistake was worse since I did not even read the drawing. I just did it 🙂....

 

best regards

 

Henrik

"The secret of getting ahead is getting started" - Mark Twain

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Hi Vane,

 

I can't quite tell from your photos the alignment of the gunports.  The foremost gunport should be pierced perpendicular to the line of the hull (i.e. at an angle), all the others I believe should b eperpendicular to the centerline (the framing would dictate this).  I had angled the inner face more to try and keep the hull thickness constant in section, but did not agonize over this.   I don't think you should see much of a difference with the other ports.  You can build in some flexibility into this simply by setting the cannons so there is a gap between the from of the carriage and the interior bulwark (as would have been seen in practice).

 

Anyway the post below shows my tribulations in this area and mistakes made if its any help...

 

Cheers

 

 

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Trying to finish off the first planking. The distance between the bulkheads are rather long on this kit. I added scrap stipes on the edges and now it is much steadier as well as more easy to sand down and get a nice curve. 

20210101_131339.jpg

Current builds: HMS Victory (Corel 1:98), HMS Snake (Caldercraft 1:64), HMBV Granado (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Diana (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Speedy (Vanguard Models 1:64) 

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She is beautiful! Nice work!

 

How long is the hull?

How are the instructions and drawings for Diana? For Cruiser its quite challenging. mast and yard drawings are missing a lot of blocks and many pieces that are not numbered what it should exactly be (of course still manageable).

 

Vahur

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Thanx alot for the kind words. 

The hull is slightly over 80cm and this kit is one of the first Chris Watton designed for Caldercraft in the Nelson Navy. Its a beauty, but its from the 90s and Caldercraft hasnt updated any of their kits so they start to get really old. So basically the plans and instructions are poor and also the precut parts etc. In order to get it in good shape you need to work alot on all details as well as make some updates in mtrl. I have already bought better copper and will likely replace the visable wood with something else than Walnut. 

I bought this kit before Vanguards had started to pick up speed, but today I would rather wait for Chris to design a new frigate than building this one. Nothing wrong with the Diana but his newer designs and kits are top notch and so much more easy to build.       

Current builds: HMS Victory (Corel 1:98), HMS Snake (Caldercraft 1:64), HMBV Granado (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Diana (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Speedy (Vanguard Models 1:64) 

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When it comes to first planking I have given up on the soaking of wood and now i use these three tools. First planking dont need to be that pretty, its just about shape and support for the next level.

20210108_095430.thumb.jpg.f8a8308c87305b59e049b9803afb3794.jpg

 

1) matt cutter is not that precise but its much more comfy than an exacto knife and it can cut 1.5mm lime very effective. Sometimes i use it together with a ruler if its a long cut.

2) dry planks are instantly shaped with this plank bender. Not pretty, but its easy and effective.

3) this tool can effectively press down some nails once u get a hang of it. It needs to be straight otherwise u can bend the nails.

 

Plenty of PVA is used and then i remove the nails after it has dryed.  

 

For the 2nd planking i will do the Chuckmethod witho prebending and CA. I also sand the side of the planks for a perfect fit. It takes time but thats what make a difference in how it all looks. Builds without proper sanding looks quite horrible in my opinion. But the first layer dont matter that much.

 

20210108_094736.thumb.jpg.65f42e98fef750d0a1f7a37224502415.jpg

Current builds: HMS Victory (Corel 1:98), HMS Snake (Caldercraft 1:64), HMBV Granado (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Diana (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Speedy (Vanguard Models 1:64) 

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15 hours ago, Vane said:

2) dry planks are instantly shaped with this plank bender. Not pretty, but its easy and effective.

 

I used one of these too. They certainly make life easier, and if marks are put regularly enough, you can make pretty good curves. I have a violin rib bender that I'm going to try this time round, which I'm hoping will be even quicker, and will leave no marks on the back (especially useful where you want to make concave curves, where the inside of the curve will be visible when fixed.

 

Looks like you're making quick progress, and the 1.5mm lime will give plenty of room for sanding back any rough edges.

 

[EDIT] scrolling back up I see that you've made lots more progress than that - those gunports are tricky, and you've done a lovely job. The first planking looks like a good smooth platform for the next one too. Nice job!

Edited by robdurant
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Thanks, I decided to do the gunports before doing the whole hull. Easier to work on when it was fixed in the rig and things to grab when you need some support for the carving. And also, much easier to clean up the dust instead of having it inside the hull. 

Next step will be to pland the gunports but I might work on my other projects abit more before going there. At least I have a nice hull to look at on the shelf and not that skeleton.  

Current builds: HMS Victory (Corel 1:98), HMS Snake (Caldercraft 1:64), HMBV Granado (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Diana (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Speedy (Vanguard Models 1:64) 

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Slowly progressing with the 2nd planking. I dont like working with walnut but I add that under the copper. 

 

20210703_170330.thumb.jpg.0ec58921d6a2ed723a2e4c6262a9ef76.jpg

 

20210703_170348.thumb.jpg.9ad7849e2557cb148bab9e2fb4288268.jpg

 

 

Current builds: HMS Victory (Corel 1:98), HMS Snake (Caldercraft 1:64), HMBV Granado (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Diana (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Speedy (Vanguard Models 1:64) 

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Nice work but having recently wrestled with the stern fascia I think it is high in the picture as the windows line more with the bottom of the lower deck gun ports. If you look at the box picture, the upper deck bulwarks end stick up above the top of the stern piece. The side galleries would be to high as well. The instructions are hazy of course. The book picture also has it lower to my eye. It may be just the angle of the side shot.

 

 

ECK

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/4/2021 at 9:32 PM, Beef Wellington said:

Hi Vane, nice update and good to see the planking progressing so well.

Thanks Jason, your log is a guide for me and I will follow some of your solutions but my ship wont be near your quality.

 

On 7/5/2021 at 4:25 PM, ECK said:

Nice work but having recently wrestled with the stern fascia I think it is high in the picture as the windows line more with the bottom of the lower deck gun ports. If you look at the box picture, the upper deck bulwarks end stick up above the top of the stern piece. The side galleries would be to high as well. The instructions are hazy of course. The book picture also has it lower to my eye. It may be just the angle of the side shot.

 

 

ECK

Yes, I will try to put it as low as possible. After studying alot of Diana builds i can see that many are struggling with the stern and it often ends up kind of high.  I guees it also has something to do with the ship design. The last canonport should follow the hight of the deck. And then its difficult to have its the same level as the windows without some modifications. 

Current builds: HMS Victory (Corel 1:98), HMS Snake (Caldercraft 1:64), HMBV Granado (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Diana (Caldercraft 1:64), HMS Speedy (Vanguard Models 1:64) 

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