Alfa Romeo Spider Gran Touring by gjdale - FINISHED - Pocher - Scale 1:8

[popeye the sailor]

superb progress Grant........shook my head when I read the part about the leaf springs.   very good solution........bet that stiffened them up!  

[gjdale]

The Rear Axle (continued)

 

The rear axle mounts to the frame via two bolts through the rear floorboard, which first had to be adjusted in shape to enable it to sit horizontally once fitted. The rear bolt is used to also mount the rear dampers, however this part is incorrect to allow proper fitting of the dampers. Apparently in some variations of this kit a correct part was included but for the majority of the kit variations Pocher continued to supply the wrong part. Two options are available to correct this. One option is to replace the incorrect part with a custom machined part. A simpler, though still incorrect option is to mount the damper to the axle using the inner two damper plates and then mount the damper to the chassis using the outer two plates. While this is technically incorrect, it still looks okay, so this is the option I chose. The two luggage boxes are also mounted on top of the rear floorboard, with the left-hand luggage box being drilled through for the wiring to the battery box.

 

 

This completes the Rear Axle assembly.

Chassis Bottom

 

The next item to address is the Oil Cooler and its plumbing. The usual adjustment of the plastic parts and subsequent painting precedes installation. The Oil Cooler is attached to the chassis bottom via two screws in the main floorboard. The position of the floorboard was previously adjusted during the body test fitting to ensure that the Cooler Filler pipe would correctly align with the appropriate hole in the fender.

 

 

The pipework for the oil cooler consists of two brass rods that must be bent to shape according to some patterns provided in the manual. The right-side pattern is fine, although some of the bends are quite tricky to get just right. This line runs from the rear of the oil cooler along the chassis side and eventually into the engine. It’s the top line in the photo below.

 

The pattern for the left side pipe however is incorrect. Fortunately, Paul Koo warns of this and advises how to go about shaping the line for a correct fit. It runs from the middle left side of the oil cooler around the transmission and into the engine.

 

 

Fuel Tank

 

The Fuel Tank is another item that requires a departure from the standard instructions. If fitted according to the manual, it will be too upright and the filler cap will not align with the hole in the bodywork. The fix is fairly simple in that it only requires leaving off the upper/forward mounting blocks. This allows the fuel tank to lean forward, which will then align the filler cap. Pocher addressed this in later versions of the kit by providing a differently shaped filler cap. 

 

 

The fuel pump is also attached to the chassis via a mounting point on the rear floorboard and two copper lines are run connecting the pump to the fuel tank and carburettor respectively. An electrical wire (green wire in the photo below) is also run all the way forward along the chassis, then up through the firewall to connect to the back of the fuel gauge on the dashboard.

 

 

 

Exhaust System

 

The Exhaust system presents no particular problems other than the usual parts fit problems. To remedy this, the exhaust parts are not glued into the exhaust manifolds on the engine, thereby allowing the parts to self-adjust as they are fitted. In the photo below, the rear manifold appears to have shifted slightly during subsequent operations and will need to be readjusted in due course.

 

 

 

Continued next post...

[gjdale]

Miscellaneous Items

 

There are a few extra bits and pieces that I completed under the heading of “miscellaneous” items. The first of these was the battery box. Although the luggage compartments make an ideal hiding place for a battery box, I discovered that even a AAA battery size is too large for the space. Paul Koo showed using an ‘N’ size battery here. While I was able to find ‘N’ size batteries at my local electronics store, I could not find a battery holder to match. So I made my own by cannibalising the connectors from a AAA battery box and making a new box from 1.5mm styrene. It’s a snug fit even so, but we got there in the end.

 

 

 

Pocher provides a neat little set of tools that simply require painting and gluing in place in the tool box, and a leather log book, the pages of which are cut from the pages of the instruction manual. They are a nice touch to add a little extra interest to the model.

 

 

 

With all of the chassis work completed, I was able to go back and install my scratch-built ignition wiring loom along with all the spark plug leads. The leads themselves are an after-market part from Model Motorcars.

 

 

And finally, here is a ‘glam shot’ of overall progress to date.

 

 

Next up, the wire wheels......stay tuned.

[BobG]

Simply outstanding, Grant, and your build log is an interesting and a pleasure to read.

[gjdale]

Thanks Bob 😊

[Canute]

She's a beauty, Grant. Coming along very nicely.

[gjdale]

Thanks Ken 😊

[BobG]

On 4/10/2020 at 12:20 AM, gjdale said:

I had never heard of the Pocher range of model car kits until a fellow modeller on MSW (Moonbug) took a diversion from building ships to building one of these (actually a Rolls Royce).

Is there a link to the Rolls Royce build by Moonbug? I can't seem to fine it. Thanks.

[gjdale]

5 hours ago, BobG said:

Is there a link to the Rolls Royce build by Moonbug? I can't seem to fine it.

 

I haven’t been able to find it Bob. It’s possible that he either took the log down, or it may be that he just posted a few photos in one of his ship build logs. He hasn’t been active here for a while now, so not sure that even a PM would be answered, though you could try.

 

But stick around long enough and you’ll see one from me! 😉 (I’ll have to do a ship or two first though.....)

 

Edit: I did manage to find some pics on his website here:

 

http://lehmanshipyard.blogspot.com/p/1932-rolls-royce.html

 

and some more pics here (click on the photo and it will take you to the link):

 

 

 

 

[lmagna]

You constantly amaze me with your ability to make rapid and beautiful additions to this difficult model Grant. A very enjoyable and informative build to follow.

[gjdale]

Thanks very much Lou. 😊

[BobG]

Grant, what Vallejo Model Air Paints have you used so far on the parts you've painted? 

 

I think I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these models thanks to your build log! 😎

[gjdale]

Bob,

 

For most of the engine I’ve used paints from the Vallejo Metal Colour range. The engine block etc is painted with Dull Aluminium, with Gun Metal for the highlighted bolt heads. I’ve also used Steel for some of the underside, like the Oil Cooler and drive shaft/rear axle, and also the radiator. I also used Model Air Black for the black parts. The Metal Colour range recommends a Gloss Black primer and also the Metal Varnish as a top coat. I’ve had a lot of issues with both the primer and with the varnish - getting the right consistency for the airbrush has been quite challenging.

 

... and a little birdie told me that you might have already pulled the trigger....😎 Your secret is safe with me ....... and the 35,000 members of MSW. 😉

 

[BobG]

7 hours ago, gjdale said:

... and a little birdie told me that you might have already pulled the trigger....😎 Your secret is safe with me ....... and the 35,000 members of MSW. 😉

Well, it's a secret no more I see...and another little birdie told me me that you have 4 of these Pocher models in your stash now...touché!! 😇

 

Thanks for recommending me to Paul Koo. I emailed him along with a link to a Pocher Spider model that was for sale on eBay and asked him what he thought of it and what a fair price for it might be. He got back to me quickly and said it looked like a great model and said if I could get it close to the beginning bid price it would be a great deal. He also noticed from the photos of the model that there was a missing bag of metal parts #261 and that there appeared to be an extra dashboard that was already started. I emailed the seller and he added a photo of the missing bag which had just fallen into the box and he also said that the dashboard was indeed an extra that a friend had given him. Nothing else had been started. I was able to get the model for the beginning asking price of $450 since no one else bid on it.

 

I'm excited to build this model and a bit intimidated about it at the same time given the notoriously poor quality control of the Pocher parts. I ordered Paul's DVD also and will use it as guidance like you have. I'll also be using your build log for guidance too and will be happy if I can do half as well as you are doing with your beautiful build.

 

Thanks for encouraging me to take the leap!

[Egilman]

47 minutes ago, BobG said:

Well, it's a secret no more I see...and another little birdie told me me that you have 4 of these Pocher models in your stash now...touché!! 😇

 

Thanks for recommending me to Paul Koo. I emailed him along with a link to a Pocher Spider model that was for sale on eBay and asked him what he thought of it and what a fair price for it might be. He got back to me quickly and said it looked like a great model and said if I could get it close to the beginning bid price it would be a great deal. He also noticed from the photos of the model that there was a missing bag of metal parts #261 and that there appeared to be an extra dashboard that was already started. I emailed the seller and he added a photo of the missing bag which had just fallen into the box and he also said that the dashboard was indeed an extra that a friend had given him. Nothing else had been started. I was able to get the model for the beginning asking price of $450 since no one else bid on it.

 

I'm excited to build this model and a bit intimidated about it at the same time given the notoriously poor quality control of the Pocher parts. I ordered Paul's DVD also and will use it as guidance like you have. I'll also be using your build log for guidance too and will be happy if I can do half as well as you are doing with your beautiful build.

 

Thanks for encouraging me to take the leap!

Ahhh, here we go, Another effected with the plastic mania.... Good Deal!

 

Welcome to the club... the satisfaction of taking a poorly made/researched kit and turning it into a work of art is just as great as building a wood ship from kit/scratch, just using different materials and techniques....

[BobG]

12 minutes ago, Egilman said:

Welcome to the club... the satisfaction of taking a poorly made/researched kit and turning it into a work of art is just as great as building a wood ship from kit/scratch, just using different materials and techniques....

I've always loved an adventure! Have you built any Pocher models too?

[Egilman]

46 minutes ago, BobG said:

I've always loved an adventure! Have you built any Pocher models too?

Oh yes, enough to know that the brothers here are masters and I'm just an apprentice.... They are an adventure.... and once your done, you will have increased your model skills at least twice over....

[Landlubber Mike]

On 7/7/2020 at 7:39 AM, gjdale said:

Bob,

 

For most of the engine I’ve used paints from the Vallejo Metal Colour range. The engine block etc is painted with Dull Aluminium, with Gun Metal for the highlighted bolt heads. I’ve also used Steel for some of the underside, like the Oil Cooler and drive shaft/rear axle, and also the radiator. I also used Model Air Black for the black parts. The Metal Colour range recommends a Gloss Black primer and also the Metal Varnish as a top coat. I’ve had a lot of issues with both the primer and with the varnish - getting the right consistency for the airbrush has been quite challenging.

 

... and a little birdie told me that you might have already pulled the trigger....😎 Your secret is safe with me ....... and the 35,000 members of MSW. 😉

 

Grant, exceptional work!  Thank you for sharing - I'll be bookmarking your log for when I start mine.

 

Sorry for a slight diversion from your log, but I noticed you mentioned the Vallejo Metal paints.  I haven't had any problems with the Gloss Black primer thus far, though I noticed that it tends to dry in the airbrush fairly quickly.  I haven't had to paint much with it so haven't tried using Flow Improver yet.  I really like the Metal Color paints though, which spray very nice and clean quickly in the airbrush compared with the Model Air line.

 

For the Metal Varnish, is it worth using?  I am coming up on painting aircraft bodies using Metal Color aluminum.  I was probably just going to use Future to coat for decals, and then spray with a semi-gloss varnish.

[gjdale]

Thanks for the kind comment Mike.

 

To try and answer your question - the problem I have with the gloss black primer is getting it to the right consistency to spray through the airbrush without clogging. Finding the right “formula” of paint, thinner, and flow improver has been quite challenging and I don’t think I’ve yet hit on the “ideal” mix. Once it is on the model, it’s fine - though if you use a little too much flow improver it will take quite a long time to dry (naturally, since that is the function of flow improver - to slow down the drying time).

 

The varnish is a similar problem only worse and can end up staying tacky for days. The one thing I haven’t tried Yet with the varnish is thinning it with water (the website says it can be thinned with water). Maybe I should give that a go. I’m also trialling the Liquitex permanent high gloss acrylic varnish. It sprays perfectly straight out of the bottle. It may need several coats - I’ve only done one so far, so am reserving judgement.

 

I can’t comment on other products as I’ve no direct experience with them.

[Egilman]

1 hour ago, gjdale said:

I’m also trialling the Liquitex permanent high gloss acrylic varnish.

Just don't try and mask it, it's what was suggested I use over Uschi's metal powders to seal them in... as long as it's down they were good but when masked they pulled right up using light tack frisket tape after four days..

 

I also found out it is not IPA proof... IPA will soften and remove it.....

[BobG]

1 hour ago, gjdale said:

The varnish is a similar problem only worse and can end up staying tacky for days. 

That's been my limited experience as well, Grant. I made a 50/50 mixture of Vallejo Gloss and Satin varnishes for clear coating the hull of my Pen Duick. I was trying to get a semi-gloss sheen. I did thin it quite a bit with Vallejo Thinner because the Satin was quite thick. I ended up with some very slight orange peel effect. I tried to put it on "wet" and I think I got it on too thick and it stayed tacky for nearly a week. 

 

Even though you couldn't really see the orange peel effect from 2 feet away it bothered me. So now I have sanded the hull and am going to paint it again. My perfectionism got the best of me! One step forward and two steps back... 🥺

 

1 hour ago, gjdale said:

Liquitex permanent high gloss acrylic varnish. It sprays perfectly straight out of the bottle. It may need several coats - I’ve only done one so far, so am reserving judgement.

Let us know how the Liquitex goes for you. I'm a bit leery of using the Vallejo Varnishes now and I certainly don't want to end up painting the hull a third time!

 

 

 

[BobG]

2 hours ago, Egilman said:

I also found out it is not IPA proof... IPA will soften and remove it.....

Well, Hell's bells, that rules it out for me!! 😧

 

There must be an interesting story about how you found that out!

[Egilman]

58 minutes ago, BobG said:

There must be an interesting story about how you found that out!

Yeah over in my F-104 build thread...

Kabuki tape peels it....

IPA takes it off...

The entire fuselage was covered with it... IPA and a toothbrush.

 

Liquitex High Gloss Varnish was described to me as an indestructible art work protectant... so much for claims I said...

[gjdale]

Thanks for the heads-up and sorry to hear of your experience Egilman. I’m confused though - why would you want to mask the varnish? I would have thought that was your final coat? Same for IPA - why would you be taking IPA near a finished surface? I’m sure you had reason to do so - I’m curious to understand better.

 

Bob - I think you’ve been waiting for me to do trials, and I’ve been waiting to see how you went with yours! I’ve just read in your Pen Duick thread how the polishing didn’t work - good to know, but sorry that it was at your expense.

[Egilman]

2 hours ago, gjdale said:

I’m confused though - why would you want to mask the varnish? I would have thought that was your final coat? Same for IPA - why would you be taking IPA near a finished surface? I’m sure you had reason to do so - I’m curious to understand better.

Since you asked it won't be derailing your wonderful thread....

 

I did the fuselage BMF finish first, which meant I had to mask off the wings for painting white.... what you saw was the first attempt to reposition the tape..... It wasn't even pressed down hard along the seam yet.....

It just came right off. Right down to the underlying black paint..... 

 

Since the BMF finish didn't work, and I didn't want to bin it, I had to find a way to get the finish off without destroying the plastic... (or the underlying details) 

My first choice is IPA... see if that affects the finish cause I know it doesn't affect plastic, of course I was told the liquitex varnish is indestructible... so my go to is IPA....

 

I was quite surprised when I saw that within seconds of wetting with IPA and light scrubbing with a toothbrush the Liquitex and BMF finish (two layers of each) came off all at once just started peeling right off...

Liquitex if NOT indestructible..... I do not know what else will affect it but if IPA does, I'm sure there are other stronger cleaners and solvents that will as well..... 

Oh yeah, Super Clean has no problem stripping it as well...

 

Liquitex varnish is not a good final seal coating/covering.....

[gjdale]

Thanks for the explanation Egilman - good words of caution.

[Landlubber Mike]

Sorry to ask, but what is IPA?  I keep thinking beer...

[Egilman]

3 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Sorry to ask, but what is IPA?  I keep thinking beer...

{chuckle} I keep forgetting that some haven't got this far yet..... 

 

Isopropyl Alcohol, or more commonly Rubbing Alcohol....

[Landlubber Mike]

Thanks!  The non-drinkable kind

[BobG]

9 hours ago, gjdale said:

Bob - I think you’ve been waiting for me to do trials, and I’ve been waiting to see how you went with yours! I’ve just read in your Pen Duick thread how the polishing didn’t work - good to know, but sorry that it was at your expense.

I think the way things went for me with the Micro Mesh Polishing Pads was more about the way I used them than anything else. I've watched a couple of youtube videos and they seem to work very well. I think I started off too aggressively even though I was trying to be very careful. I started wet sanding with the 1500 pad and, even though I was using it gently, a few small white spots showed up on the black paint where I apparently sanded through or lifted a tiny rough spot. At that point I just decided to redo the hull.

 

Micro Mesh says that you can get a satin sheen when using up to the 6000 pad and the grits above that will give you an increasingly more glossy finish. So, in hindsight, I think I should have be more careful and started wet sanding with the 6000 pad and see how that looked and then, if necessary, I could work my way toward each more coarse grit as needed. That may have done the job nicely.

 

I also bought some Tamiya Polishing Polishing Compounds and their polishing cloths after seeing them in use on youtube. I think they may be useful in polishing out any small imperfections in the final clear coat.