Emma C Berry 1866 by Sea Hoss - FINISHED - Model Shipways

[BobG]

She's coming right along and looking great, Sea Hoss. I've been following the build of this boat by yvesvidal too and I really like this model.

[gjdale]

Looking great Sea Hoss. She really does have elegant lines doesn’t she?

[Sea Hoss]

Hello All, still banging away on Emma. (that doesn't sound right). Got the hull planking finished. Still need finish sanding though. Got the coamings, grating and hatches done. Working on the cabin top, companion way and trimming are next. I plan on doing all I can before deck planking. I installed a few LED's inside at the bow, behind the wet well and in the cabin to show some detail better. They seem to be too bright though. They glow through the basswood. I think they'll glow through even after painting. I'll figure out how to tone them down a bit. Well, that's all for now, happy modelling!

[Sea Hoss]

New update on the Emma, work on the cabin and companionway, hatches, bowsprit pall bit. Then I began sanding and filling defects in the hull. Put on primer, sanded and more primer. Then smoothed with 00 steel wool. I didn't want to over do it with the filling and smoothing so it looks like fiberglass rather than an old fishing vessel with it's dents and defects. Now I should look for and correct any funky mistakes before moving on. I'm not sure if I should construct the bulwarks next or plank the deck, I'll have to mull that over. She's beginning to take on a beautiful look to me now!

[gjdale]

Great work Sea Hoss. She’s looking more lovely with every update.

[Maury S]

She's a great boat.  So special that she's been restored several times over the decades and is the oldest such boat in the US.  The lines are beautiful and not enough attention has been paid to her as a model.

Maury

[Sea Hoss]

I have reached a point in ECB's progress to post some. Got the bulwark stanchions, scupper planks, upper bulwark planks, cap rails, stern rail, mooring chock blocks and mooring bitts completed! That's a mouthful! There is still some additional goodies that I will create and install. I applied some primer to the finished sections, in addition to priming for paint, it shows where I need to correct any imperfections. Still using my crappy phone camera so the pics are not so great... sorry.

[yvesvidal]

Beautiful work.

 

Yves

[Sea Hoss]

Thanks all for your nice comments ands thumbs ups. Been busy moving for the last few weeks, had to put ECB on the back burner. But all moved in now and have a much nicer work shop/ ship yard! Don't have to use my dining table for my work bench! Have some new equipment and work bench, sweet! Plenty of storage for everything too. Be back to work on ECB soon. 

[mek]

A beautiful place to work!
Have fun continuing to work on the EMMA !

[Ras Ambrioso]

Excellent work. you are doing a lot more than I did on my Emma. K eep it up. i’ll follow your progress 

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

Crikey, you're taking the 'kit' to a whole new level.  What was in the box were resources to make a model as good as 'scratch built'.  Makes sense - why re-invent the wheel?

[Sea Hoss]

Hello there, thanks for the comments and likes, much appreciated. Been working here and there on getting as much of the inner structure installed and painted so I could get the deck laid down without getting paint all over. So, I'm 

 

now at that point and have got the deck all in except for an openning on the starboard side for peeking in. I think it will look decent when the l.e.d. lights are on to view the inner hull. I deviated some from the suggested color scheme. I liked the areas that I've used the "cream" color but I thought a somewhat warm grey for the other areas. It should pop when the black of the hull and pin striping are added. I want to get as much completed as I can before permanently attaching her to the base which will be the simulated slipway as shown on the box. I think next after a little touch up here and there I'll tackle the bowsprit. Well, thanks for looking.

[Sea Hoss]

Hello there! Got to work on the bowsprit/trailboards. It was quite enjoyable... The bowsprit is pretty complex, goes from a mortise into the pall to square then eight sides then square again to eight sides again. After the second eight sides it called for sixteen sides to round. I skipped the sixteen side deal as I've tried that before on this small size and it comes out looking round. So eight it is, looks good.Maybe with harder wood the sixteen would show better.But anyways, just some sanding and filing then prime and paint. The paint is also divided into: cream, black then white.

[Sea Hoss]

Hey there, thanks for the comments and likes...Got some more progress on the ECB. Finished the bow sprit and then launched onto the windlass. A little tricky due to the small size of some of the parts. The brake handles were a challenge. I made them from strip wood with 22 gauge wire handles. Then pinned them into the bearing box also with pins. Everything was cleaned up and painted before assembly. I removed the brake handles as they are fragile but will permenantly attach them later. 

[Sea Hoss]

The rudder assembly was next. Rounded the forward edge as shown and tapered it aftward. Set up the rudder post to attach to the top of the rudder with a pin in the middle of the rudder box. Covered the front edge of the rudder with copper where it will fit into the concave edge of the stern post. After everything is finally assembled, I will put all this together, too fragile to leave it exposed to my clumsy hands! At that point I can add the copper straps that hold the rudder to the sternpost. I have it dry fitted now to see if it will go together right.

[niwotwill]

Just started following and admiring your work sofar. I have an ECB on the shelf and will start in the next month or so and your log will be a big help.

 

Stay Well and Stay Safe

Will 

 

 

[Sea Hoss]

Thank you Will, it actually looks better in real life, I'm a lousy cameraman with a lousy phone camera... I enjoy your work also.

[Sea Hoss]

Hello all, been enjoying the great posts of great builds on the forum, thanks. Got to the point where painting the hull was next on the agenda. Actually I've been looking forward to this! So, I looked everything over and taped bellow the waterline after adjusting my waterline marking contraption that I put together a while back. It was a bit tricky when going around the underside near the rudder. I decided that I will "free hand" that part when the time comes. I had already primed everything a while back, so I went ahead with a matte black and ofcourse the imperfections jump out at me! May have to do a little more filling and sanding later on. Oh well, I think every build needed the touch-ups. Made a few paint boo boos also. Fix those when the painting is done. But, all in all, I like the look. The black makes everything pop! The starboard side has two coats and I taped and put the first coat on the port side. Bellow the waterline will be a red oxide matte color.  When all is touched up and meets my approval, I'll brush on a satin poly. Oh ya, before the poly I need to put on the "Emma C. Berry" lettering and trailboard garnishments. The transom also requires some fancy gold paint work too, will need a real steady hand for that it looks like!

[niwotwill]

Its looking real good and the planking remember this is a working boat for 155 years and not a pretty boy yacht. I like the planking don't clean it up too much. Did you follow the instructions on what planks to leave off? 

 

Stay Well and Stay Safe

Will 

[Sea Hoss]

Thanks will, yes I was trying to keep in mind while working on her that she's an old working boat with dings and dents and decades of repairs etc. I guess like a lot of us, I'm a perfectionist! Also, I sort of just winged it with the open parts of the hull on the starboard side. I now wish I'd left more planks off, oh well, it is what it is, I'm happy with it. Your Syren is looking great by the way.

[Sea Hoss]

Got quite a bit more done, drilled in the flooding holes for the wet well, (it seemed so wrong). Then I applied the red bottom paint bellow the waterline. Added the double cabin doors with hinges made from brass strips. Then something I almost forgot, the boom horse on the transom. After a thorough and tedious search for painting boo boos, I touched up all the errors that I could find, I'm sure there'll be more! Next up will be permenantly attaching the bowsprit and fabbing up the various bands and hardware.

[niwotwill]

Its looking good except for those holes in the bottom 🤔 hee hee. What are you building in the backyard? Also back to the leds did you ever find how to dim them? If you still need to work on the lights I found this at a HO railroad shop and they were really great being used as street lights etc. They are micro chips all the way down to a nano size and their web site is www.evandesigns.com

 

 

Stay well and Stay Safe

Will 

[Sea Hoss]

Hey Will, thanks for the tip on the model rr lights. They have lots of useful stuff for ship modelling also huh? The construction is across the street. I believe it will be a duplex residential building. How I dealt with the led situation is to reach in and brush on some yellow occre paint, it toned them down and added a more realistic yellow glow like you'd get from lanterns.

[yvesvidal]

9 hours ago, niwotwill said:

Its looking good except for those holes in the bottom 🤔 hee hee. What are you building in the backyard? Also back to the leds did you ever find how to dim them? 

 

A white LED will usually require 3 volts to shine, under a current of about 10 milli-amps (0.01 A). To reduce the intensity of the LED, you need a resistor. To calculate the resistor, simply take the voltage of your power source (i.e. 12 Volts), substract the voltage required by the LED (3 V) and you end up with the voltage that needs to be dropped in the resistor: 12 - 3 = 9 Volts.

 

Using 10 mA for current, the resistor will have a value of 9 / 0.01 = 900 Ohms or more commonly 1 KOhms. It is a simple application of the Ohm law.

Now, let's calculate the power of the resistor: P = R*I*I = 1,000 * 0.01 * 0.01 = 0.1 Watt. To be on the safe side, I would select at least 0.25 Watt (1/4W) resistor or even better 0.5 Watt (1/2W) resistor.

 

Keep in mind that LED are polarized, but you will figure it out..... If you want to dim the LED, increase the resistor to 1.2K or 1.5K. Also, painting them with a yellowish color will turn your overall light into a greenish hue (Blue which is prevalent in Chinese LEDs + yellow).

 

Yves

Edited April 21, 2021 by yvesvidal

[Sea Hoss]

Thanks for the info Yves, would a variable resistor work here?

[yvesvidal]

4 hours ago, Sea Hoss said:

Thanks for the info Yves, would a variable resistor work here?

 

It could be I would not recommend it, because of the heat dissipation. Just try to get a couple of resistors such as 1Kohm, 200 ohms, 500 Ohms and you can arrange them in series to make it a 1500 ohms or 1200 ohms, if need be. Just experiment. 1 Kohms should be fine.

 

A variable resistor will cost much more but it could be used and will provide you with the fine adjustment of intensity that you may require. Make sure it is capable of at least 1/2 watt.

 

Yves

[turangi]

The build is looking great! 

[Sea Hoss]

Thank you Mr T. and all others, how's yours coming along?

[turangi]

Making slow progress, better than none I reckon.