Cutty Sark by Bruma - Revell - 1:96 - PLASTIC

[rwiederrich]

Wonderful stay and jib sails....just wonderful.  What was your technique for creating the folds and stress creases in the sails?

 

Secondly...what did you use for the hanks and did you thread the stay through them prior to fixing the stay to the mast?

 

Rob

Edited March 10, 2021 by rwiederrich

[rwiederrich]

I thought about using some kind of silkspan myself for my 1/128 scale Great Republic but translucency was an issue for me...and hand painting every sail wasn;t what I wanted to do...though each of my sails is painted as well.  I used paper and even used a crimping plier I invented to emboss the stress points.  But at my scale it just wasn't necessary.

 

Your 1/96 versions are wonderfully made.   Here is my example

 

Rob

[Cirdan]

50 minutes ago, Bruma said:

But when it comes to ship models, sails can easily ruin a fine job if not done properly.

 

Oh yes, that happens too often, especially with clippers. But once again you show us a first-class work. I have never seen it better in this scale. 

[kirill4]

Looks Fantastic!!!

Very realistic!!!

Beatiful job!!!

Please give detail description how You made them, with foto if available...

how did You reach such realistic positions of the sails,

*their wind filled itself and

*positions on stays , at the certain angles to the central line...there are no visiable wires or some kind of additional supporters?

Just Enigma for me!!!:)))

Edited March 11, 2021 by kirill4

[shipman]

WOW!

Just found your latest post....sails. Fabulous!

We need a separate sail tutorial please.

[Sailor1234567890]

I agree, those sails are absolutely amazing. A tutorial would be nice. And more pics of course.

[Keith Black]

Bruma, the sails are the most realistic I've seen modeled. Very nicely done!

[gak1965]

Awesome work!

[Bruma]

Thank you all for the likes and feedback, I really appreciate them.

After spending so much time and effort  it’s important to have unbiased opinions, and I’m happy to read that they are positive! 

And apologies for the delayed response. Busy days… 

As requested, I try to explain what I’ve done, but please bear in mind that this is my first sail model and those are my first sails ever, I am not, by any means, an expert… 

The raw material is modelspan.

It comes in two different thicknesses, mine is the lighter one, the only one available for me at the time. I have no experience with the thicker one, but mine seems to be a bit too light. 

The modelspan’s color is pure white, and it is almost transparent. That’s why I have painted it with non diluted acrylic colors. 

I’ve used pure white mixed with ivory white and a dot of black. The paint has been applied on both sides with a flat brush. 

At the end of the process, the modelspan is flexible and wet, and I let it dry by hanging it on a horizontal pole.  

Meanwhile, I have created a paper model for each sail, using the Campbell’s sail plan scaled to match the size of the model. 

Using the paper model I was able to draw each sail on the painted modelspan. 

I have added a margin around each sail. It will be bent to simulate the outer frame.

The seams line has been simulated with a sharp pencil. 

I have made some tests by gluing small strips of modelspan  as the real sails, but this dramatically decreases the flexibility of the sail, so I opted for pencil lines. 

Once all was drawn, I cut the sail and this is the result:

 

The edges of the sail are reinforced with 0.2 metal wire. It is important to straighten it as much as possible. After many tests I discovered (but surely many of you already know it) that twisting the wire makes it  straight and robust. 

Since I work almost only late evening/night, I can’t use electrical tools… That’s why I’ve produced a wire twister with my trusted Lego Technic, here it is:

 

 

The metal wire is then bent  so that it can follow the profile of the sail, including the cringes, as you can see here:

 

 

 

The edge of the sail is then bent over and glued with the wire inside using non diluted pva glue. 

Once dried, I opened the holes for the hank and I started to shape the creases on the luff side. I hope the image will clarify the process:

 

 

Now I use a temporary holding pole to hold the luff side:

 

 

With all in place, it’s time to shape the sail. 

I attach the pole to a chair and the clew to a mobile support, so that I can adjust the tension and the angle. 

A bag of  flour is used to simulate the wind pressure. Flour is soft enough to take the right shape and, if all goes well, you can reuse it at the end of the process to prepare e pizza and celebrate the event with the family! 

With all in place, this is the setup:

 

 

Sorry for the poor quality of the picture, but this was my first sail and I was a bit nervous. 

 

I then spray water on the bottom of the sail. The modelspan becomes soft and creases start to appear. Once satisfied I dried the sail with an air drier. 

The dried modelspan retains the shape of the small creases, while the metal wire helps to retain the overall shape of the sail. 

The temporary pole is then detached and the sail can be weathered. 

To do that I used graphite powder (obtained from a standard pencil) applied with a dry brush. 

Here you can see a clean sail on the right compared with a weathered one on the left. 

 

 

The hanks are made from a blackened wire twisted around a pole, and cut in small rings. The rings are then passed through the premade holes on the luff side, secured in place with a dot of CA gel glue and slightly opened. 

Sheets and relative blocks are also fitted. 

 

 

 

 

With the sail prepared, is now time to install them on the stays. 

The openings in the rings  are needed in order to let the stay pass through each ring. I literally hang the sail on the stay. Now I can close each ring (using flat pliers) with the stay inside, securing the sail. 

Tacks, hallards and downhaul are then fitted, passing the lines through the metal cringes on the sail.

The last ones are the sheets. I set the sail at the desired angle (a  bit more than desired to counterbalance some relax effect) and keep it in place with the help of a helping third hand. 

I then pass the running rigging on both sides. Setting them loose on windward and tightening them on the leeward side.

The tightened lines are then painted with CA glue, while the sail is kept in the desired position. Once dried the lines keep their shape and sustain the sail simulating the wind push. 

This last image is to answer rwiederrich’s question about translucency:

 

 

This is how they look in backlight condition. I’m not too disappointed.

 

That’s it… 

I hope it’s understandable even with my bad english. If you have any doubts, please write me and I’ll try to answer! 

Thank you all again for the feedback and support!

[Bruma]

On 3/10/2021 at 11:40 PM, rwiederrich said:

Wonderful stay and jib sails....just wonderful.  What was your technique for creating the folds and stress creases in the sails?

 

Secondly...what did you use for the hanks and did you thread the stay through them prior to fixing the stay to the mast?

 

Rob

Thank you, Rob. I know your masterpieces, and I'm honored to have you here as many other expert modelers who take the time to visit my humble Cutty Sark.

I have had no luck with paper, I was not able to get the double curvature I was looking for. This is particularly true for the square sails. That's why I tested the modelspan.

Edited March 17, 2021 by Bruma
typo

[rwiederrich]

The trick you

15 minutes ago, Bruma said:

Thank you all for the likes and feedback, I really appreciate them.

After spending so much time and effort  it’s important to have unbiased opinions, and I’m happy to read that they are positive! 

And apologies for the delayed response. Busy days… 

As requested, I try to explain what I’ve done, but please bear in mind that this is my first sail model and those are my first sails ever, I am not, by any means, an expert… 

The raw material is modelspan.

It comes in two different thicknesses, mine is the lighter one, the only one available for me at the time. I have no experience with the thicker one, but mine seems to be a bit too light. 

The modelspan’s color is pure white, and it is almost transparent. That’s why I have painted it with non diluted acrylic colors. 

I’ve used pure white mixed with ivory white and a dot of black. The paint has been applied on both sides with a flat brush. 

At the end of the process, the modelspan is flexible and wet, and I let it dry by hanging it on a horizontal pole.  

Meanwhile, I have created a paper model for each sail, using the Campbell’s sail plan scaled to match the size of the model. 

Using the paper model I was able to draw each sail on the painted modelspan. 

I have added a margin around each sail. It will be bent to simulate the outer frame.

The seams line has been simulated with a sharp pencil. 

I have made some tests by gluing small strips of modelspan  as the real sails, but this dramatically decreases the flexibility of the sail, so I opted for pencil lines. 

Once all was drawn, I cut the sail and this is the result:

 

The edges of the sail are reinforced with 0.2 metal wire. It is important to straighten it as much as possible. After many tests I discovered (but surely many of you already know it) that twisting the wire makes it  straight and robust. 

Since I work almost only late evening/night, I can’t use electrical tools… That’s why I’ve produced a wire twister with my trusted Lego Technic, here it is:

 

 

The metal wire is then bent  so that it can follow the profile of the sail, including the cringes, as you can see here:

 

 

 

The edge of the sail is then bent over and glued with the wire inside using non diluted pva glue. 

Once dried, I opened the holes for the hank and I started to shape the creases on the luff side. I hope the image will clarify the process:

 

 

Now I use a temporary holding pole to hold the luff side:

 

 

With all in place, it’s time to shape the sail. 

I attach the pole to a chair and the clew to a mobile support, so that I can adjust the tension and the angle. 

A bag of  flour is used to simulate the wind pressure. Flour is soft enough to take the right shape and, if all goes well, you can reuse it at the end of the process to prepare e pizza and celebrate the event with the family! 

With all in place, this is the setup:

 

 

Sorry for the poor quality of the picture, but this was my first sail and I was a bit nervous. 

 

I then spray water on the bottom of the sail. The modelspan becomes soft and creases start to appear. Once satisfied I dried the sail with an air drier. 

The dried modelspan retains the shape of the small creases, while the metal wire helps to retain the overall shape of the sail. 

The temporary pole is then detached and the sail can be weathered. 

To do that I used graphite powder (obtained from a standard pencil) applied with a dry brush. 

Here you can see a clean sail on the right compared with a weathered one on the left. 

 

 

The hanks are made from a blackened wire twisted around a pole, and cut in small rings. The rings are then passed through the premade holes on the luff side, secured in place with a dot of CA gel glue and slightly opened. 

Sheets and relative blocks are also fitted. 

 

 

 

 

With the sail prepared, is now time to install them on the stays. 

The openings in the rings  are needed in order to let the stay pass through each ring. I literally hang the sail on the stay. Now I can close each ring (using flat pliers) with the stay inside, securing the sail. 

Tacks, hallards and downhaul are then fitted, passing the lines through the metal cringes on the sail.

The last ones are the sheets. I set the sail at the desired angle (a  bit more than desired to counterbalance some relax effect) and keep it in place with the help of a helping third hand. 

I then pass the running rigging on both sides. Setting them loose on windward and tightening them on the leeward side.

The tightened lines are then painted with CA glue, while the sail is kept in the desired position. Once dried the lines keep their shape and sustain the sail simulating the wind push. 

This last image is to answer rwiederrich’s question about translucency:

 

 

This is how they look in backlight condition. I’m not too disappointed.

 

That’s it… 

I hope it’s understandable even with my bad english. If you have any doubts, please write me and I’ll try to answer! 

Thank you all again for the feedback and support!

 

Was it difficult painting your Modelspan/Silkspan? I've seen sails done very well with this material but they were always left unpainted and extremely transparent.  The reason I opted not to use it for the Great Republic.  But your technique is wonderful and the wire is so thin it hardly is given away if at all.  The trick, it appears is to wet the span after its painted and simply let the water do the work creating the shape and the creases.

I made my hanks just like you did...but mine where quite a bit smaller since my model is 1/128 not 1/96.  Still you accomplished what most folks would dare NOT to even try.   

 

Great job for sure...can't wait to see how your square sails come out.   

I'm convinced enough that when I add sails to my Glory of the Seas....(that I'm going to begin again because my current model was built upon faulty and inaccurate data). It will be using your technique.

 

Congrats and thanks.

 

Rob

[rwiederrich]

17 minutes ago, Bruma said:

Thank you, Rob. I know your masterpieces, and I'm honored to have you here as many other expert modelers who take the time to visit my humble Cutty Sark.

I have had no luck with paper, I was not able to get the double curvature I was looking for. This is particularly true for the square sails. That's why I tested the modelspan.

 

The key to your technique is the wire in the sails and the free flowing flour in its bag.  It adds even controlled pressure to simulate even constant wind.....

 

Great job!

 

Rob

[Bruma]

6 minutes ago, rwiederrich said:

Was it difficult painting your Modelspan/Silkspan?

No, not at all.
I spread the modelspan on a big, glossy surface (the recycled box of my doughter's scooter has proven to be perfect).
The glossy surface ensure an easy detaching of the modelspan once it's wet. Painting it on both side has been just a matter of time and patience. Once wet it is still quite strong. 
This medium is just wonderfull. 

[kirill4]

Thank You very much for such detsiled explanation!!!

All clear , a lot of very usefyll information!!! :)))

All the best!!!

Kirill

[kondzik]

Your sails are wonderful. I've also used modelspan before but never tried to embed thin wire into them so they lost a bit of shape after some time. I'm definitely going to try it in my current build.

[Cirdan]

On 3/17/2021 at 10:34 PM, Bruma said:

This is how they look in backlight condition. I’m not too disappointed.

You are not only a master modeller, you are also a master of understatement! 

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

Bruma! 

i never ever seen more beautiful sails!  they are just astoundigly realistic. 

when you advised me dry brush last year i knew you are a treasure but this is just amazing. clapping hands! your humbleness is unwanted you really are master of the craft ! Thanks for cook recipe for the sails indeed. 

Edited March 20, 2021 by Vladimir_Wairoa
add

[Bruma]

Thank you all, again, for the kind comments and likes. 

In such a long build any source of motivation is welcome, and your appreciation is a great encouragement!  

[kirill4]

Dear Bruma!

23 hours ago, Bruma said:

Thank you all, again, for the kind comments and likes. 

In such a long build any source of motivation is welcome, and your appreciation is a great encouragement!  

Please, Keep on mooving !!! 

Great results we could see here!!!

ALL the Best !!!

Ps

Every day I check what news on your building happened...

One wish, give more pictures and information about your building... I have plan to assemble this model as well somewhere in the future...:)))

Edited March 24, 2021 by kirill4

[Jor-el]

Bruma,

In a word: WOW! I think I'll put my kit on evilbay. I could never equal your efforts. Again, WOW!

[ScottRC]

Excellent tutorial Bruma on you sail technique.  I have tried Silkspan and Modelspan, and like Rob, hadn't had good results from it giving an appearance of being too thin and opaque, so I have resorted to using paper on past projects.  However, you seemed to have overcome the problem with some ingenuity and I really now want to try the way you made them on my next project.

 

Thank you for such an informative build log.

Scott

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

Astounding ...  I had to push that jaw I dropped back up three times before it stayed.

[Bruma]

Thank you all guys! 

I'm really happy to see you like them, and I hope to be able to post some updates soon!

The fore mast is almost completed! 

[Bruma]

Hello everyone. 

I have finally found some time to photograph the model as it is now, with the fore mast completed.

So, it’s update time!

 

Sails #2: fore mast rigging and sails! 

 

These square sails are the first square sails on my model and the first square sails of my life, and they have been quite a challenge.  

The technique used is the one described some posts above. 

It has been a great journey, with a really steep learning curve.

My main references are Longridge,  Underhill and Campbell and as far as I can tell all the standing and running rigging lines are present in my model. 

The braces are still missing, they will interfere while working on the main mast, so I’ll put them later on. 

Still I didn’t resist putting some of them just temporarily, to visualize the braced yards and the corkscrew arrangement of the fore yards. 

Ok, enough talking. Here you have some pictures. Hopefully not too many… 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And here are some details.

As you may already know all the yards are scratch build. 

 

 

 

 

I have also added the fairleads on crosstrees, tops and lower shrouds, with all the running rigging passing through the respective fairleads. 

The gin blocks used for the halliards are also visible. They are all scratch build:

 

 

 

 And here are the last details: reef points. In my opinion thread is too thick, so I have used single bristles from an old brush and a drop of CA gel glue 

 

 

In this last picture it’s also visible how I bent the sails to the jackstay.

Please note that the sheets are not in the final position: I will shape the last part of each chain close to the sail to simulate the wind pushing them forward,, but I will do it only once all the braces will be in place. 

I hope you like them!

[wemattson]

That is a phenomenal work of art!  I've been waiting excitedly for this update and you did not disappoint.  I am truly amazed by the level of detail.  I can't wait to see more.

[Bruma]

17 hours ago, wemattson said:

That is a phenomenal work of art!  I've been waiting excitedly for this update and you did not disappoint.  I am truly amazed by the level of detail.  I can't wait to see more.

Thank you very much for your comment, I'm happy you like it! 

It will be a slow progress, but I would like to document the work on the main mast in deeper detail, there are many hidden parts and each yard can be considered a small model. I hope you will like it! 

 

And thank you all for the likes!  

[kirill4]

Good day Bruma,

Exelent works !!! :)))

I like it very much!

Very iformative fotos!

Follow your building report with big interes!:)

*Lower sails ,looks a little bit small in heihgt,is it correct size?

*as seems to me You give sails too much belly...they became looks like on galleon :)))

and it gives visual effect that sails too narow with excessive gap between lower yards and sails...?

I could suggest clipper sails shoud be more flat when shown with wind, and seted much closer to the lower yards giving impression of "sails wall"?

All above Just my private impression after watching your foto..

All the best and good progress with model !!!

Kirill

some foto of flying cloud model with sails ,just as example, how it could looks like fitted more close tothe yards and flat in shape...???

 

Edited April 22, 2021 by kirill4

[kirill4]

Did You consider to turn all yard more sharp to the wind?

[rwiederrich]

Wonderful work Bruma...excellent.

You said you scratch built each yard....did you also make the gin blocks as well.  I see you fashioned the truss for the lower topsail instead of using the Revell solution.  Wonderful attention to detail.

 

Will you be belaying all the sheets and bunt lines to their pins?

 

She is coming along nicely.

 

I am interested in your assembly approach....I constructed my Great Republic mast and yards off model for ease...did you do something similar?

 

Awaiting your next install.

 

Rob

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

The Revell kits included some scale figures of crewmen.  Ever consider placing a few on the model to give the viewer an idea of her large size?  Most models of sailing ships under sail are devoid of crew - almost like 'flying dutchmen' ...