Nuestra Senora Del Pilar by Sideways Sam - OcCre - 1:45

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

A brief introduction  -  This is not my first kit but, the first attempt I feel confident in showing to others.

As mentioned in other posts on this Forum there is a lot of plywood and coarse grained timber planking supplied.

Also some good quality fittings so overall I am happy with materials and plans supplied (I also have plenty of

research material and, a well stuffed spares box).

Assembled keel. Very slight warp which will ease into position later.Supplied stem, rudder and stern (poor plywood) being replaced with 5mm lime sheet from spares box.

I intend fixing these pieces to keel before ribs and lower deck are fitted.

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Replacement stem, stern and rudder blanks.

After a more thorough read through the instructions and plans I have provisionally decided on the following  -

Supplied hull and deck planking and inner bulwarks will be replaced with more suitable material.

I intend to double plank the hull rather than single.

The hull will be covered below waterline with anti fouling.  More research required to decide colour.

No other painting except fittings, wales, rubbing strakes and parts of stern.

Deck fittings will be scratch built and painted as necessary.

Based on previous experience this will probably take 24 months to build.

Even with the extras this should cost £4 approx. per week. This is a cheap hobby.

Found three posts on MSW for this kit, one of them finished, will be using these for guidance.

[Bossman]

Sam, looking forward to the rest of the build. Sounds like a good plan. 

[BobG]

This should be an interesting build so I'm pulling up a seat. I'm looking forward to following your progress.

[ASAT]

Those replacements look great - how did you cut the notches and gammoning slots? Helps having a larger scale huh? Gonna be a good one!

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi and thanks for the likes and comments.

Thanks for looking in  ccoyle, catopower, Bossman, BobG and coxwain.

marktiedens - your finished build kit makes good reading and is an enormous help.

ASAT  -  Welcome.  Mostly a coping saw, squirrel tailed plane and scalpels.  Also jewellers files, a good pin vice and drill bits.

I need the larger scale kits these days.  Cataracts and first signs of arthritis means that  1/63 and 1/96 kits are out for now.

Above shows bulkhead five and de-lamination of some poor quality plywood.

Fortunately the only casualty (up to now).  Will have to take extra care shaping the edges.

 

Sam.

[Edwardkenway]

Great job on the rudder and stem, they look so much better in proper wood rather than ply!

If the plywood on the bulkheads has delaminated it was a good call to replace the stem!

I'm  pulling up my chair.

 

[marktiedens]

I had the same problem with the plywood delaminating - can be very frustrating.   Warping was also a problem - I could have used some of the keel former as a cereal bowl!

 

 

 

 

Mark

[SkerryAmp]

Looks like quite the project Sam - off to a good start with those replacements, they look good!

 

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi,

Thanks for the comments  edwardkenway,  SkerryAmp and marktiedens.

When looking for my next build I found Marks log of an excellent model.

Marks comments about poor quality ply (and so much of it) and the state of the supplied planking

didn't put me off.  Especially after viewing the finished article.

I intend using the bad stuff only where it can't be seen.

Currently working on the skeleton.  Will post photo' later.

 

Sam

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Bulkheads 04 to 13 installed.  Also stem and part of keel.

The plywood sheets containing bulkheads arrived flat so, just the delaminating problem.

After detaching from the ply, supporting and fixing in position I sat and watched them warp.

Just like Marks kit.  The reinforcing bars are dry fixed and will be cut to length and glued after

bulkheads 15, 16 and 17 are in position.  I hope to drag the warped bits back into location then.

Tops of the upstands are correctly located as is the lower gundeck.  Bulkheads are perpendicular

to the false keel then go banana shaped on plan as they approach the hull planking line (some are OK).

Mainly 2mm out of line so am OK with this.  Will only use plywood where it can't be seen.

Had hoped that the bad joint in the stem would be under the waterline as shown on the side elevation

but after looking at the rigging plans it is not.   This is the first kit I have built that does not provide  1:1 plans.The notch cut at the back of the false keel is for the rudder.  The instructions on my last kit didn't mention this

requirement until after the stern planking was fixed then casually told me to drill a 6mm dia. hole adjacent

the stern piece.  Not trying to do that twice.

In spite of the above nit picking I am happy with the way all this fitted together.

Now to do something about that stem joint.

 

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Thanks for all the likes and welcome to Tarbrush and Chris Watton.

Sferoida  -  welcome, I have been checking out your build for some time.  Very impressive.

First photo shows bulkhead 15 fitted.and stiffs ref. 34 removed from sheet and ready for fitting.  Or maybe not.

Second photo shows stern bulkheads 16 and 17 fitted, also shapes 29 and 30.

Third photo shows stiffs ref. 34.  The smaller pair are not identical. These are laser cut and should be.

Do I reduce the oversize one, build up the smaller version or not bother and try to get a good shape on the 

balsa infill later ?  Also the bow stiffeners ref. 33 will need to be rebated on inner faces to suit the bowsprit

which fixes all the way back to bulkhead 15.

Thoughts up to now  -  In spite of the wingeing I think that this could make up into quite a good model.

All the false keel/bulkhead connections needed filing to suit.  I like this, it gives you a waggle free fix.

 

[marktiedens]

Looks good.  As far as the #34 part goes,I would add some material & sand or file it back to match the other piece.  Or just install it as is - the small gap will not make any difference when planking over it,especially after fairing the edges prior to planking.

 

Mark

[Geowolf]

hi SIDEWAYS SAM,

 

a very nice (and large!) model, congratulations for your choice! ufff i'm seeing the photos in Occre webpage, very complex for me hahaha. I can't wait to see all stages 😎

meanwhile only a few comments about the name of the model. The Virgin of the pillar (yes, Pilar means pillar - architectural component) is located in Zaragoza (Aragon), at the north of Spain. Zaragoza is located above Caesaraugusta, one of most important Roman cities in Iberica. The name of the ship follows the spanish tradition naming the ships with the name of significant saints or virgins, and reserving the "Holy Trinity" name for the biggest ship.

 

more info and some photos:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathedral-Basilica_of_Our_Lady_of_the_Pillar

 

regards to all and keep safe,

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Hi Mark and Geowulf and thanks for the comments.

Decided to add material while the piece is still off the ship.  Much easier to do it now rather than after fitting.

Geowolf  -  thanks for the background and the link.  I have been having trouble collecting information of any sort.

Mark  -  On examining the carcass this morning I noticed that some. not all, of the warping had gone.

Need to look in my attic to see if there is a picture of this ship falling to pieces !!

 

Sam

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

The building cradle  -  the straight edge is the perspex blade from a tee square.

It's straight, flat and wide.  It will hold its shape.   Clamped down to shelf and used to position

one side of keel clamps.  Leave overnight for glue to dry. (4No. blocks located between bulkheads).                              Using an off cut of plywood from the keel sheet position the other side of each keel clamp and glue.Insert keel and wedge so that model keel is perpendicular to building board.

Then add the vertical shores under bulkheads as required.

After the glue dries drop the model into position. The transverse block at the bow end

gives a positive lock in position.   This method gives a high level of rigidity and can be used

to support the model until it is completed whilst allowing removal and relocation within seconds.

Obviously this jig will need re-packing after hull planking which is why the keel clamps are so high.

 

Sam.

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

                               Basic carcass finished, next step is to fit the lower gundeck.  This will be added before the deck is planked.

Still considering material choice for this.  Marks solution of bleachingstock walnut strip is favourite.

I have a lot in stock from previous builds and it seems warp free.  Also considering fitting a waterway

to this deck  -  if it goes well I will do the same for upper decks.

Stiffeners either side of the stem have been rebated to suit the bowsprit  (fitted temporarily).

Easier now than later.

 

Second photo shows stern with additional supports for planking adjacent to rudder housing.

Again rudder located for photo.

 

Sam

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Gun deck positioned and glued.   Before planking I will fit the hatch coamings covers and gratings.

Looks better if the planking butts up to the framing rather than plonk the hatch on top.

Also will need to start experimenting with bleaching the deck planking (good tip for using up stock walnut

from marktiedens postings for this kit).

The deck fitted much better than I expected and, the ply sheeting was excellent.

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Waterways and king plank fitted to gun deck.  I tried bleaching the strip walnut but this was a complete failure.

Wrong type of walnut or weak European bleach.  Will be using this for hull first planking so won't be wasted.

Gone for 1mm lime for the planking and 2mm thick for the waterways. These have been edge bevelled to

1mm thick adjacent to planking.

The king plank is symmetrical at the mast locations  -  photo taken from an unfortunate angle.

 

Sam.

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Not a lot of progress  -  waiting for deck planking delivery.

Hatch and gratings added.  Shot racks will go on after deck planking.E                                  Bow blocking added.  Just noticed that the stem foot packing needs adjusting.

Not noticeable on the bench but photo's don't lie.

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Still waiting for gun deck planking so thought I would have a go at the oven and surround.

Once the decks and fittings are all in place you will only see the front and part sides.

Even so had no intention of using the kit supplied plywood.  The photo's show sequence of build.

If I can find a small enough brush it needs a touch up when the paint is dry.

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Thanks for the likes.   Still waiting for the ordered deck planking but in todays circumstances I will not complain.

When it arrives I can use it for the upper deck and bulwarks.

After exhaustive spares box diving found enough to complete the gun deck. Had to be inventive here and there

but it appears to work.  In stock for a while but didn't need bending.  Used it all, only sawdust left.

Just needs a final sanding and varnish.   Shot racks fitted and tried to "weather" the beakhead deck.

Have decided to go for a natural look so won't be painting the bulwarks, just 'wales rails and decorations.

Should be more progress next few weeks using kit parts.

 

Sam.

[BobG]

She's coming along very nicely!

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Gunport blanks fitted.  Usual poor quality plywood.    Laminations not properly glued together.

No matter how careful you are they explode when separating from the sheet.

I think that they need extra reinforcing before sanding down.

The next step in the instruction book is to fix the inner bulwarks and looking at the state of the gun ports

I think that might be a good idea,  then try sanding.

On a more upbeat note  -  one window frame mk. 45 was missing from the kit.

Went on their website Sunday last and ordered a replacement.  It arrived from Spain 4days later.

That is customer service !!

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Upper gun deck furniture added while I can still get my fat fingers in there.

Includes stove, pumps, cannon balls, main mast bitts, cannon train tackle and gun tackle eyebolts.

Next is frame cross beams and upper decks.

[Danstream]

Very nice level of details.

Dan.

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Thanks for the likes.  Forgot to finish off the capstan.

 

Sam.

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Forecastle deck beams and deck blank located and glued.  Needed more fitting and easing than the upper gun deck.

After filing found that one of the problems was that frame 4 is thicker than frame 5.  Back to the poor quality ply.

Couldn't line the rear of the deck with the support beam without filing out the slots so went for strength.

Will cover the back edge later so that the deck blank and plank ends are hidden.

Also glued in two supports at the back of the door openings to the bowsprit deck for later.

This was a blatant lift from Mark Tiedens build log.  Thanks Mark and, thanks everyone for the likes.

Quarter deck next then some first planking around the gun ports so I can line them out.

The waist decking I want to think about and won't install until after the guns are in position.

Again, after reading Marks posts and, battling the kit instructions I think this may be the way to go.

 

Sam.

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

Quarterdeck beams and deck blank fitted. Masts dry fitted to prove they fit and are aligned.

And they do fit.  Better to find out now than later

No real problems with deck blanks either.  This is starting to go together better

and is building into a strong and stable structure.

Still worried about the length and slenderness of the aft support structure but haven't snapped one off yet.

Next is the dreaded sanding to fair the frames and gun ports.

Never look forward to this, the dust gets everywhere.

 

Sam.

[SIDEWAYS SAM]

I knew that there was a problem with frame 7 when I planked the inner bulwarks.

Now that the rest of the frames and gunports have been faired it can be attended to.

Photo below shows 1.5mm thick packing attached to frame edge prior to sanding back.

A pack, of equal thickness, is required on both port and starboard sides of this frame.

So lazer cutting, not me getting the frames out of position.

Will also have to trim back the inside faces of the frame above gangway level.

All the other frames faired with the minimum of sanding but No.7 was short.

Not bad compared to some kits I have struggled with in the past.

Once the glue has dried it's on with the first layer of upper planking.

 

Sam.