Medway Longboat 1742 1:24 scale by fnkershner

[Chuck]

If you are having trouble with the thole pins,  you might want to try using a wire of the same diameter.  Perhaps even a brass rod.    Perhaps 1mm or ever larger.

 

 

[fnkershner]

Chuck - Actually I am enjoying turning the wood from square to round. I was just trying understand how they used the Drawplate. I think I will continue the way I am going without the drawplate. I can taste the finish line!😀

 

Since my stand says 2021. It has always been my goal to actually finish this year. I am not sure if I can get all the rigging done this year. But at least the hull is going to be done this week.

[gjdale]

If you want to use the draw plate method Floyd, I’d suggest leaving the stock longer while passing through the draw plate and then cutting to length later - that way you can discard any damaged ends from gripping with pliers.

[fnkershner]

I have almost finished my main mast. I have a couple of questions - I tried painting the top portion black. but it looks wrong to me. I am considering sanding it off and painting is flat black. Let me know what you did on your model. Also did you put a coat of Wipe on Poly over the top of the painted portions and the rest of the mast. i.e. did you cover the mast with a coat of WIP?

[BobG]

All the black portions the mast, gaff, boom and bowsprit should be painted flat black. I did put a coat of satin WOP on all of them before I painted the black portions but I did not put any WOP over the painted surfaces. 

[fnkershner]

Thanks Bob. Did you use flat red on the mast?

[BobG]

I used Vallejo Model Air Red and hand brushed it. It's is designed for airbrushes but it works fine brushing it on by hand also. It's more of a satin finish...not gloss but not entirely flat either. I thinned it quite a bit with water and applied many, successive coats until I got good coverage. You get a nice finish this way as you slowly build up the number of coats. 

 

I've been very happy with Vallejo paints but, it seems like, everyone has their own favorite brands. The key is to use thinned paint and build up the layers until you have a nice, deep finish. This is especially true with red since it goes on rather transparent until you build up the layers. Using thinned paints also helps prevent brush strokes in the finish.

 

 

[fnkershner]

Can someone tell me how to determine the gauge of wire? I have reels of 28 & 24 gauge. but I also have left overs from various projects and I have no idea what the gauge is.

[Nirvana]

1 hour ago, fnkershner said:

Can someone tell me how to determine the gauge of wire? I have reels of 28 & 24 gauge. but I also have left overs from various projects and I have no idea what the gauge is.

Floyd, use a caliper - measure the wire either in mm or fractions or inches.... now use the table of wire and you will find that higher wire number the smaller diameter it has, lower wire number  - larger diameter.

28

0.0126

0.32

Gauge , inches, mm

24

0.02

0.51

 

 

Your friend

[fnkershner]

Thanks Per for the link. I found a tool at that site that can measure the wire.

[fnkershner]

Here is another side project as I work on the longboat. Chuck mentions that you need to take the deadeyes and soften them up in a Block tumbler. I didn't have one. but I found a great article from Grant here on MSW. And below are the results.

 

First, I started with a mailing tube that I cut to a length of 100 mm. It is 75 mm in diameter. I went to my local Maker space and used the Wood CNC to cut some MDF disks to a 75 mm inside diameter and 80 mm outside diameter. I then cut some doweling for the spindle. and as Grant suggest I used a Hacksaw to create the grooves in the spindle. I line the tube with 120 grit sandpaper. See all of this below. Grant suggests that you build 3, 1 for 120 grit, 1 for 400 grit & 1 for 600 grit. I completed the 120 grit first to test and will finish the other 2 this week.

 

 

Edited November 23, 2021 by fnkershner

[gjdale]

Looks good Floyd. I look forward to seeing the results after tumbling.

[fnkershner]

Can anyone point me to the download for the Frieze for this model? Unfortunately I got some paint on the stern. 

[Gregory]

 

[fnkershner]

I now have completed my mast and all spars. And with the block tumbler mentioned above. I have removed the laser char and softened the edges of my Deadeyes and blocks. I am now moving on to giving a go at making copper thimbles before I do any rigging. So, my question is how many do I need? 2 for the blocks with hooks on the mast. where else do I need them. It looks like 1 for the Gaff. Anyone have ideas?

 

After taking a close look at the rigging plans. Here is what I have. Please confirm or update. Starting from the Stern -

- 1 Brass thimble that slides on the horse & 1 on the block on the boom for the tie off point for the Main sheet.

- Also hook from the top block of the main sheet.

- Next I see 1 each for the back stays.

- Then there is a thimble for the Peak Halyard.

- Now we have the 2 blocks mentioned above that hook to the top mast.

- It also looks like I need a thimble for each of the hooks on the shrouds.

- Continuing forward I see another needed for the Fore Sail Halyard.

- Lastly there is the Jib Halyard.

 

I count a total of 13. Am I right?

 

 

Edited December 6, 2021 by fnkershner

[Ryland Craze]

4 hours ago, fnkershner said:

I am now moving on to giving a go at making copper thimbles before I do any rigging. So, my question is how many do I need?

 

Hi Floyd.  It sounds like you are making good progress on your Medway Longboat.  I enjoyed the rigging progress.

 

I used seven thimbles on my Medway.  They were used at the following locations:

One each on the two blocks at the upper part of the mast;

One each for the backstay tackle;

One for the peak halliard;

One each at the foresail halliard and jib halliard.

 

I made many more thimbles than the seven that I used.  This way, I could pick out the best ones to use on the model.  I am looking forward to seeing some pictures of your model.

 

 

 

[fnkershner]

Hi Ryland and thanks for the info. I bought a 12 inch long piece of copper tubing that is 1/16" in diameter. I am having a bit of a challenge when I cut it. I always get a lip which needs to be filed off. How long is your thimble? I am trying to get 1/16" long. You did not have a thimble on the horse? I figured that the block is going to be sliding back and forth so there would be a thimble, similarly on the Gaff.

 

 I don't like to have 2 back to back posts. So I will just edit this one. Along with working on my thimbles. I am also working on all the eye bolts needed. I count 7 required. 3 for the mast, 2 for the Gaff, 1 for the Boom, and 1 at the bow. My method is to take my 1/16" diameter tube and wrap the wire around it. Then twist the ends to create a shaft to insert into the wood. I was taught along time ago. this was better than the eyebolts you can buy. Since you can never get the right size and the twisted Shaft provides better grip for the glue.

 

If anyone has any better ideas please share. also let me know if I have the count correct.

Edited December 8, 2021 by fnkershner

[Ryland Craze]

For my thimbles, I cut the 1/16" brass tubing slightly longer than 1/16".  A thimble is not needed on the horse because the block is seized to the horse.  The sheet that is run through the blocks is extra long and this allows the boom to move port and starboard.

 

I have heard of making the eye bolts the way you are doing and it definitely would be a lot stronger than forming a loop on the end of the wire, which is the way I did it.  Seven eye bolts are correct.

[fnkershner]

So the horse does not serve as a traveler? I assumed the Block would slide from 1 side to the other when you let the sail out. This is very common today on similarly rigged Sailboats now. What you have is the Mainsheet also working as traveler. It certainly makes sense to get the blocks out of the way for the Tiller.

 

Can someone please give me a source for 18 or 22 gauge wire? I thought I had a solution but it is not working very well.

Edited December 9, 2021 by fnkershner

[Ryland Craze]

Floyd, I have purchased wire from Hobby Lobby and Michaels in their beading departments.  You can probably find it online also.

[fnkershner]

Thanks Ryland. did you have to Blacken It? All I have found is copper or Copper with a shinny black plastic coating.

[Ryland Craze]

The 18 and 22 gauge copper wire that I got from Michael's did not have a plastic coating on it.  I did sand it with fine sand paper and soaked it in acetone prior to blackening it.  I had purchased some 28 gauge wire from Model Expo many years ago that was black in color.  I did a google search and found many places that sell the black annealed wire, but you would have to pay for shipping which adds to the cost.

[fnkershner]

I have been to Michaels, Hobby Lobby, Hobby Town, Searched Amazon & Google. I guess the key was to use the word annealed in my search. When I did this I immediately found 18 gauge wire for $3. But as you say It cost $8 shipping. So, if anyone needs some wire soon. I will have way more than I will ever use.

I have had lots of challenges with Blackening in the past which is why I have avoided using it up till now. But it looks like it is the only solution for some of the parts for rigging. So let me ask - full strengh or 1:1 with water? and do you rinse after to stop the chemical process? and do you rince with Alcohol or water?

[Ryland Craze]

I struggle using blackening agents.  I used Jax at full strength and immediately rinse in water after removing from the blackening solution (usually less than 10 seconds in blackening solution). I wipe the part off and let dry, then repeat the process until I get the desired tone of black and then hope and pray the blackening does not wipe off.

[fnkershner]

All of the above is why I prefer paint. But there are just some situations where Blackening is the only solution.

[mtaylor]

Jax only works on brass as I understand it.  Same with the old "Blacken It" stuff.  If copper, use liver of sulpher.  Quite a few builders are using that.

[fnkershner]

Mark - where do you get your "Liver of Silver"?

[gjdale]

Floyd,

 

I bought my LoS online (can’t remember the supplier now, but a quick Google search should provide some options).

 

The one bit of advice I’d offer here is to buy the LoS in gel form. Then you can put a very small blob on a paint palette, put a drop of water next to it, and then dip a paint brush where the two meet. I find this technique provides a good strength solution, without getting too scientific about ratios. I think it was Ed Tosti who first suggested that approach to me. Anyway, it works for me.

[BobG]

Floyd, I got liver of sulphur on Amazon. Here's a link:

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PLZ4SS?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-ypp-rep_ypp_rep_k0_1_10&crid=1K34ZJ9IDH5N6&sprefix=liver+of+s 

[DaveSchmidt]

I found Hillman annealed black wire in 22 and 24ga on Amazon.