HMS Granado by HardeeHarHar - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Bomb Vessel

[glbarlow]

Just a thought: I did the Flemish coil thing on a few models (including Granado) then learned they were seldom used on working ships. I’ve since preferred natural rope coils as a more, well, natural look as I did on my Cheerful. 

[AJohnson]

Hey Brian, nice catch! 🎣

 

The cannons are coming along fine, they are tedious to rig, I remember being relieved to finish the ones on my Bounty and I only had four! 🤣

[Peanut6]

I don't recognize that type of trout, the marking and top fin configuration is throwing me off, what are they?  Two that size makes for some good eating.  Grandma got me into really enjoying grilled trout broken up over a big salad, man that was good, even if I had to harvest the salad fix'ns from the garden (which of course made the meal all the better).  Fishing with Grandpa, we always got Mac's (aka Mackinaw or Lake Trout), German Browns, Rainbows, Brooks and what we called Natives.  Oh, and the ship is looking pretty good also.  

[HardeeHarHar]

@Peanut6 Hey Kev-They are speckled trout, aka spotted seatrout.  They are very tasty 😀.  The cannons are going slowly, but they are going.  They look pretty good from the side of the ship 😜.

@AJohnsonThanks for the kind words and commiseration Andrew.  You always provide much inspiration and encouragement, and I truly appreciate that my good man.

@glbarlowHonestly Glen, I like the looks of the Flemish coils on the deck, even though mine aren’t much to look at.  I’m not undoing what I’ve already done to start over, but in the future I might take a different approach just as you have 😬, or focus on ships without cannons…

Cheers mates!

Brian

[Peanut6]

Speckled trout . . . don't recall ever hearing about them before.  They sure don't have those in the Idaho/Wyoming/Montana triangle, or if they we never went after them.  IMHO, all natural fed trout (not fish farm grown) are some of the best tasting fish there are.  Once we moved to the midwest, I added pike and catfish to the list.  Haven't caught any but do love to eat'em.

[HardeeHarHar]

Speckled trout are extremely prevalent in the brackish sounds and bays, and are very popular game fish because they are good eating.  They can get much bigger than those 2, but those were nice fish with a lot of meat.  I went out this morning and caught a little smaller one and released him perfectly unharmed to grow a little more.  I know where he is and will come back later… 😉

[HardeeHarHar]

Guess who finally finished the installation of all the cannons on the Granado?!?  I will do some touch up work on the gun tackle, but it will soon be done and I can then move forward with some of the remaining deck equipment, etc.  YAY.   

[barkeater]

 

 

looking good.

[AJohnson]

Well done Brian, a big thing ticked off! Looking good! 👍

[Peanut6]

Nice, very nice indeed.  I know how long you've worked on those and the rework we've discussed really shows.  Hitting that milestone must feel like a breath of fresh air (or the feel of a trout givin' ya' a bit of a nibble).   

[HardeeHarHar]

Thanks for the build drop ins, kind words of encouragement, advice, and the thumbs up from kind colleagues @The Gimps Chimp @Peanut6 @AJohnson @barkeater @VTHokiEE @glbarlow @ccoyle @hollowneck.  I was back on the Island for a few days, so I was able tp work a bit more on the Granado.  I got the window frames for the stern lights painted and in place.  Alignment of the frames looks surprisingly good (I will post some pictures as time permits).  I ordered some Dullcote to spritz on the painted transom and the decorative rail the transom sits on, then I will glue them in place, and put the taffrail capping over the top of the transom.  I'm pretty happy with the alignment and appearance of the parts as I have dry fit them in place...  I've still got to paint the two little cannon-ball holding crew that stand on each side of the transom, and glue them in place as well, but then the transom will be done.  I also made the grating for the quarterdeck and stained its coaming a dark walnut color, and gave the whole thing a coat or two of wipe-on poly.  I also painted the stove vent and have it ready to be secured to the deck.  I have been hesitant to glue the mortars and other deck hardware (windlass, belfry, quarterdeck rail, quarterdeck rough tree rail, etc.) into position so I kept as much room for cannon installation and rigging free for my big fat fingers and thumbs.  However, I believe I can move forward soon and get things glued into position as I wish them to be displayed.  On the other hand, does it make more sense to get the quarterbadges and anchor linings in place prior to glueing the relatively fragile parts to the deck?  Inquiring minds want to know your opinions!  Also, I am wondering how hard it will be to get the quarterbadges to fit nicely over the wales.  Anyone have any thoughts on these matters, I am all ears!  

 

As usual, I am pleased to make any progress at all, particularly progress that doesn't have to be undone and redone 😃 .  Thanks again for stopping by and offering your thoughts and opinions.

 

Brian

Edited October 25, 2022 by HardeeHarHar

[AJohnson]

Hey Brian, good to hear you can still do something on the "Granado" as well as your "secret" vessel, I'm following both! 😁

[Peanut6]

Secret Vessel ! !  Evidently I missed or forgot something.  I suppose I had better pay closer attention.  Can't wait to see the pics. 

[HardeeHarHar]

Peek-a- Boo!  

[Peanut6]

HOW SWEET IS THAT?!!  I saw a build of it, it may have even been the kit's prototype log, and thought it was very unique and yet so well thought out.  I think it moves up into my top 3 for a choice of my next build.  Have to check out your build HHH, you lucky dog    

[HardeeHarHar]

It’s an awesome little kit!  My signature line has a link to my build log but also a link to a great finished build.  Hope you are well Kev!

[AJohnson]

8 hours ago, Peanut6 said:

Secret Vessel ! !  Evidently I missed or forgot something.  I suppose I had better pay closer attention.  

Well Brian did say it was a Secret! 🤣

[glbarlow]

On 10/11/2022 at 8:06 AM, HardeeHarHar said:

get the quarterbadges to fit nicely over the wales. 

I followed the sequence in the instructions, I don’t recall them being any particular issue or challenge. You file off what’s required on the bottom for a flush fit.  Here’s a (not very good) photo of mine for reference. 

[HardeeHarHar]

@glbarlow Thanks amigo!  I thought that I had seen someone attempt to make the whole quarterbadge sit relatively flush by removing some of the wood from both the wale and the side of the ship, which SCARED ME TO DEATH.  The instructions read to just file it down where it sits on the wale as you have done, which looks nice and tidy to me, and seems to be the most straightforward approach with minimal chance for a "OH S**T."  I do think it is in my best interest to get these installed, and all the items requiring extensive "handling" of the ship done first, before I start to glue down things that stick out and can easily get broken during handling.  I am dreading the gun port lids....  Apparently I like to worry a lot. =(

[glbarlow]

Removing wood would be a really bad idea, very hard to get that right. Just file the metal slowly with constant test fits until you’ll have it right. I did this before painting it. 
 

I dry-fitted the soldier dude behind the quarter badge but held off gluing him to near the end. The q-badge really isn’t in the way once on. 

[HardeeHarHar]

So, I have attached the transom decoration over the stern lights with the light frames painted black.  The decorative rail is running across the bottom, having painted it walnut with a dark highlight in the middle.  Getting it attached securely was a victory, but upon close inspection, I see a lot of areas where I could have done a better job.  I realize it isn't great work (or even good work), but I am learning a lot on the Granado as my second model ship build, and will try to apply my "lessons learned" in the future.  I still need to put the 1x4 mm walnut taffrail capping in place over the transom decoration, after it is shaped and painted dull black, then I will do some touchup and cleanup of the whole area.  It is amazing how dust gets everywhere.  I am also working on the quarterbadges, and have usurped @Timmo's approach, where I am going to make frames for the lights out of scrap brass wire from the kit.  I will take some more pictures as I proceed.  Finally, thanks for visiting the build and offering sage advice.  It is encouraging to know people are watching and willing to help the novices!  

Edited October 20, 2022 by HardeeHarHar

[AJohnson]

34 minutes ago, HardeeHarHar said:

 I realize it isn't great work (or even good work)

Got to disagree Brian, I for one think you are doing great work! 👏. For the capping piece to the transom have a look at @Moonbug build log of his HMS Pegasus, he added a fine capping strip in his which really nicely finished it off. 

[HardeeHarHar]

Andrew, you are too kind!  I do like the color scheme, having "pilfered" that from @Timmo too.  Also, I appreciate your kind suggestion.  I just had a gander at @Moonbug's work.  Holy Moly his build of the Pegasus is stunning.  Just scanning through to find how he did his taffrail was educational and inspirational to say the least!!!  Super recommendation and reference, and I thank you very much!

[Peanut6]

Nice work, really like the color scheme you're working 

[HardeeHarHar]

Thanks Kev!  Previous build logs are a gift for this newbie….I can’t replicate them as well, but I try!!!!  

[HardeeHarHar]

So, how on earth are some items that seem relatively trivial so HARD.  Taffrail capping for instance.  I had read where someone used the sheet that held the transom as a means to bend the 1x4 mm walnut to the perfect shape.  So, I was like "that will make it easy".  So I cut it out, and tried to use it, and it wasn't that easy.  Of course, I made it extra difficult by making sure to spray the walnut with primer, and then paint it black.  In other words, I made it harder to bend.  So, I just dunked the painted strips in water to make them more pliable.  Because the frame I was trying to use was 1 mm, and the walnut strip was 4 mm, it was not going to work.  Me being me, I ended up trying to use two paint bottles to try to shape it.  It ended up not even close to the right shape, but it got the wood to bend a little in the right direction. I then tried to glue this horribly misshapen strip of wood over the decorative transom SLOWLY (adapting the advice I had received from @hollowneck to look at @Moonbug's build), and then gradually bend and glue it into the appropriate configuration.  EPIC FAILURE, embarrassing even.  So, I wet the painted and semi curved walnut strip some more while I made "Frankenrig", an entirely too crude (and again embarrassing) attempt to make a deeper jig that would make the job "easier".  Lightning struck, and it kind of worked!!!  Then the overly worked walnut strip was able to be glued in place (slowly) with only a few gaps, and those gaps I believe I can fill in later and they won't even be noticeable.  I touched up the taffrail capping with black paint, and have moved on.  Because I used boxwood strips for planking, and I don't have anything other than boxwood strips, I have decided I will use the walnut fenders and the stairs provided in the kit, and stain them dark as is my habit.  However, the instructions say to make the anchor lining using three (3) 1x10 mm walnut strips, and I decided I am not going to have walnut anchor lining overlaying on boxwood planking.  So, I created "Frankenlining" by gluing eight (8) 1x4 mm boxwood strips together, and then cutting and sanding  them to the correct shape.  And that is where I am going to leave this post.....

With best regards to all build visitors,

The Mad Professor (Brian)

 

Here is the frame that held the transom:

 

and here it is cut out of the parts sheet with the tabs removed...

.

 

and since you can't bend a 4 mm wide strip of walnut using a 1 mm thick jig, here are the bottles I thought I could use as a jig =( 

 

I might have a PhD, but clearly, I am not too intelligent.  So, I went back to the original idea and made "Frankenrig" that was 3 mm high....

 

And then I jammed the wet, fully painted walnut strip into the rig and clamped it down tight.

 

And it actually kind of worked.  Close enough for this novice at least.  I think I can fill in the holes with some glue, which will then serve two purposes.

Lastly, here are my "Frankenanchorlining" creations.

 

Muahahahahaha.  Sigh.

Happy Halloween Peeps!  I know I just scared you A LOT.

 

😃

 

Edited October 23, 2022 by HardeeHarHar

[Peanut6]

Oh such an evil laugh.  The gaps look to be symmetric, so I agree that after filling them in you probably have to know they are there and be looking for them to even be noticed.  Nice creative work-around.

[Timmo]

Looking good there Brian. 

I've responded to a couple of Qs back on my build log.

Wayne

[HardeeHarHar]

14 hours ago, Timmo said:

Looking good there Brian. 

I've responded to a couple of Qs back on my build log.

Wayne

Hey Wayne,

Your Granado build is one that sets a high standard of craftsmanship, so the kind words of encouragement mean a lot to this novice builder.  Thanks again for responding to my questions and dropping by my build log!

Brian

[HardeeHarHar]

So, I listened to all suggestions in response to my question about how to align and glue the steps to the outside of the Granado, which I had already treated with Danish Oil.  I decided that instead of waiting to order and receive Super Phatic Glue (it is not sold at Lowes, etc. as far as I can tell), I would follow the advice of Glen @glbarlow and build a jig and use medium CA, a glue that I have had a lot of experience and modest success using.  However, instead of building a wooden jig, I made a photocopy of the plan sheet showing the steps position, alignment, and spacing.  I printed it out, then used a scalpel to cut a square of the area containing the steps, and then I cut the steps out of the square, again using a sharp scalpel blade.  Crazy, I know.  I put just a little blue tack on the piece of paper, and then tacked it onto the side of the ship in the correct location.  Now I had a template for the steps alignment and position right on the side of the ship.  I then took each of my stair steps (5 per side), that I had stained and finished with Danish Oil, and holding them with fine point tweezers, I put a thin line of Loctite Medium CA along the step, and then carefully glued it in the correct position as indicated by the paper template.  In most instances I surprised myself, and I didn't shake or spaz around....I just glued it right onto the side of the ship in the correct position as shown by the template.  I had one step that I spazzed around with a little, and when I pulled the step back away from the ship, the unthinkable occurred.  Basically, I heard the tips of the tweezers snap closed and a millisecond later the sound of the step bouncing off of something and disappearing into thin air.   Some wise man once said "PUT A TOWEL IN YOUR LAP", which is almost precisely the words of wisdom frequently used by the Admiral (she also suggests a sheet under the work area).  Do I listen to these suggestions.  NO.  I searched and searched, and now face the ugly future when one of our schnauzers goes up to the Admiral with a step stuck in her beard, and the Admiral gets to say "what is this, and why does a dog have it, don't you know it could make the dogs sick if they ate this!!!!!", and "other ugly words".  So, then I had to get the part number, and then refer to the parts sheet, to see if the kit manufacturer had predicted the "oh cr*p" flight of the stair step and included an extra one.  Good luck for me, they had.  Before I went to retrieve the part from the sheet in the other room, I searched one more time for the missing piece, trying to avoid having to stain and finish another step.  Miracles of miracles, I found THE SPARE STAIR, all unfinished and sitting there on the work table trying its best to GET LOST.  At my age, you forget you had removed all 11 of them, and for some reason, you only work with the 10, and let the 11th spare start to wander around to be lost and forgotten.  If I hadn't looked one last time, I would have gone to the other room, removed the parts sheet, and seen that I had removed them all....and then tried to find it.  Hah, I win, I didn't have an unnecessary heart attack in this instance.  So last night, I stained the spare, and will be glueing the steps to the other side.  I took one of the steps that was ready for use, and glued it into the template to finish the one side, and then attempted to remove the template from around the steps without removing the steps along with the template.  Guess what, it mostly worked.  There were just one or two places where the paper didn't remove as cleanly as I would have hoped, but I could get it cleaned up with some tweezer work (see photo).  I also got the anchor (Franken)lining and fenders in place on both sides, as you can see in the second picture.  None of it is perfect work at all, but it is "not bad" by my newbie standards.  Finally, it has been my strategy to build as much of the deck equipment, etc. as possible before installing it, so that the fragile pieces aren't all broken due to mishandling or finger spasms.  For example, the elm tree pumps with their teeny tiny metal handles seem like parts that if installed too early in my shop would take a beating over the remainder of the build.  So, I have made them, but not assembled/installed them yet.  Recently, I decided I would make the tiller housing.  As I am prone to do, I looked at what @Timmo and others had done in the past, and saw that he had etched some decorative figuring in the sides of his tiller housing.  It occurred to me that I could do the opposite, and decided to glue decorative panels to the sides to give it a little bling (little being the operative word here).  I have included a picture of the tiller housing, with my teeny tiny kit bash in evidence if you squint and look closely enough.

 

 

 

 

I have come to the conclusion that the only way to make small things like the tiller housing look "good" is to include a picture of a dime or something to show the small size of these items.  In the absence of an indication of scale, everything looks "bad".  Live and learn.

 

Thanks for stopping by, and a BIG THANK YOU to @glbarlow, @allanyed, @Peanut6 and everyone else for the advice, encouragement, and tips and tricks.  Without everyone's help and push in the back, I would still be frozen in thought/inaction/fear.  Stay safe and be happy!

 

Brian

Edited November 15, 2022 by HardeeHarHar