HMS Granado by HardeeHarHar - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Bomb Vessel

[HardeeHarHar]

Glenn!  I agree about the IBEX, it’s real smooooth!  With regard to the sweep port lids, I would stick them on as you have, but I like the look of them too much to hide them.  I’m going to keep mulling it over and make a decision soon.  Your Granado is an awesome model, and I am hoping to emulate your work and the work of so many other talented builds.  Here is a picture of the bowsprit in progress, the rain chased me indoors…

 

[HardeeHarHar]

I thought I would add a note for everyone who might be considering the purchase of a mini-lathe like the one made by Proxxon (DB-250).  It is a great little lathe, and makes working on the masts and yards a real pleasure.  I typically use sand paper, but occasionally I break out a cutting tool as well.  My digital caliper is used frequently, and I feel like I am learning new skills while I am having fun at the same time.  Having said all of these positive comments, I should note that I have had a few "surprises" occur due to operator error.  These instances of "operator error" have not resulted in any egregious injury or loss of tissue or biological fluids, but they have served to remind me to think carefully before turning it on or doing something stupid, and serves to reinforce my decision that I don't need a table or scroll saw at this time =).  In the photo below, on the left is the lower section of the main mast, which starts at 8 mm round for a while, then tapers from 8 to 7 mm round, then ends with a 7 mm square end.  On the right is the bow sprit, which starts at 8 mm round for a while, then tapers to 5 mm round, then will have a 5 mm square and a 3 mm square end.  I have been working hard, which has made my available time for shipbuilding rather limited, but I am making some progress and enjoying it, even with the occasional "surprise".

Edited April 23, 2023 by HardeeHarHar

[Peanut6]

Good to hear you're having fun with your new toys, and the results look impressive.  Even better to know you haven't maimed yourself in the process.

[glbarlow]

Once or twice I’ve left the tightening wrench’s on the Chuck. I’d advise against doing that.

Edited April 22, 2023 by glbarlow

[HardeeHarHar]

Did that one.  The other one was moving the tool guide to far to the left.  Both were noisy, but the tightening tools FLY with some velocity as well!

[Peanut6]

Glad to hear they have bad aim  

[HardeeHarHar]

Admiral Thomas on deck.  New uniform.

[AJohnson]

 Hope the crew pass muster!

Edited April 25, 2023 by AJohnson

[HardeeHarHar]

It seems like I have been working too much, and have been unable to make a lot of progress on my Granado.  However, I have made a little progress, and I like to post any progress I make to keep up even a teeny bit of the momentum.  While it is not part of the instructions, I decided to plank the main mast top to give it a little contrast.  It needs a coat or three of wipe-on, but I think it looks pretty good with the maple planks similar to the deck, and it slips right on the main mast nice and snug like it should.  I am curious if people tend to make the hole for the masts in the deck as big as the mast is in diameter, or is there some advantage of reducing the diameter at the point where it goes into and below deck (like what is done on the bowsprit)?  Opinions and thoughts please?!?

Edited May 3, 2023 by HardeeHarHar

[AJohnson]

That’s a nice enhancement to the top Brian, looks good! 😁

Edited May 3, 2023 by AJohnson

[glbarlow]

The mast would never be a smaller diameter where visible above the deck. But at this point it would depend on the seat you built for it below the deck. It needs to fit tight and snug. I don’t see any advantage to decreasing it in size. 

[HardeeHarHar]

2 hours ago, glbarlow said:

The mast would never be a smaller diameter where visible above the deck. But at this point it would depend on the seat you built for it below the deck. It needs to fit tight and snug. I don’t see any advantage to decreasing it in size. 

I hear you loud and clear Glenn, and I greatly appreciate your input on this matter.  The space, or seat, below the deck is what was created per the instructions in the kit, and I don't think that is much at all (it may be slanted to some degree, but it has no diameter in dimensions as I recall).  However, the holes in the deck and the deck reinforcements are much smaller than the diameter of the main and mizzen for some reason.  This means I will need to carefully enlarge these holes with a dremel or something, which is a terrifying proposition as I can see shards of decking flying off.  I was hoping someone who had made the Granado would remember this issue and offer some sage advice, as I was clearly considering reducing the diameter to fit the hole because it wouldn't be obvious or observable if done in a sufficiently sneaky fashion.  Any additional thoughts and advice and encouragement will be greatly appreciated.

[glbarlow]

28 minutes ago, HardeeHarHar said:

enlarge these holes with a dremel or something

Don’t do that !  Use a smaller dowel with 220 then 320 sandpaper wrapped around it and/or a fine tooth round hand file. Go slow, check often and it will be fine. I never use anything but hand tools, a Dremel risk isn’t worth the speed. 
 

it was a long time ago but the above I’m sure is what I did on mine since I’ve done it on all my models. If you have to reduce it for the seat then only ways not seen below the deck. And yes it will have some rake to it so account for that in rounding the hole at an equal slant. 
 

Hope that helps

Edited May 4, 2023 by glbarlow

[HardeeHarHar]

1 hour ago, glbarlow said:

Don’t do that !  Use a smaller dowel with 220 then 320 sandpaper wrapped around it and/or a fine tooth round hand file. Go slow, check often and it will be fine. I never use anything but hand tools, a Dremel risk isn’t worth the speed. 
 

it was a long time ago but the above I’m sure is what I did on mine since I’ve done it on all my models. If you have to reduce it for the seat then only ways not seen below the deck. And yes it will have some rake to it so account for that in rounding the hole at an equal slant. 
 

Hope that helps

Yes, that is what I needed to hear.  Thanks very much Glenn, I will proceed according to your sage advice.

[HardeeHarHar]

Making progress on the masts, yards, etc.  I have learned a lot, and have hacked a few items (e.g., the main yard) to the point where a redo might be appropriate.  It might not be so obvious when they are painted black.  It is slow going, lots of other tasks to address, etc.  However, all the channels and deadeyes/chainplates are pinned to the hull and ready to be nailed down, and the main mast top has gotten its finishing coats of wipe-on and is looking pretty good.  Slow and steady as she goes.

[François de Saint Nazaire]

On 1/4/2022 at 6:08 PM, HardeeHarHar said:

Well, I added the banding around the windlass, put the bell on the belfry, and built all the ladders.  I have them dry fitted, and have posted a photo that shows all the warts that still remain to be touched up with some stain and some WOP.  It still feels like progress is being made, warts and all.  I have also completed the quarterdeck barricade, and have the elm tree pumps almost finished as well.  Will post photos of those soon, as it helps to see what needs to be touched up more =\

 

Please forgive my repetitious pictures, but I did touch up the windlass a little more, and did so semi-successfully from my perspective.  I also touched up the ladders a little, in order to reduce the appearance of the layers of different darkness on the sides of the ladder.  I don't think I did as good of job with the rungs of the ladder, but maybe if you use your imagination we can all "believe" they look "used" and "weathered".  I believe I could do this kind of touch up work forever, with little to no further benefit, so I am going to move on for now....and perhaps spend some time rigging the cannons, instead of staining wood poorly.  Thanks for the thumbs up and build fly-bys.

Hello Brian,

 

what material is the mortar made of ? plastic or brass.

 

Thank for your log really appreciated

 

François

[HardeeHarHar]

Hello Francois,

That is an excellent question!  In fact, it was supplied as brass at one point, but when I purchased the kit they came as resin.  They look fine, but I would have preferred brass.  I wrote the supplier and asked if they had any brass ones I could purchase and was told no.  So the ones on my Granado are plastic resin.  
 

Thanks for your question and interest, I appreciate your inquiry!

 

best regards!

Brian

[HardeeHarHar]

I wonder if I am the only one who gets anxious and hesitant when it comes to doing some new tasks involved in the build.  Woolding for example, using paper and string seemed like a bigger deal than it turned out to be, at least for the bowsprit.  Making all the little cleats was not fun, and the instructions seem to be getting a little less comprehensive as I am starting to contemplate the masts and yards.  Attaching the jibboom to the bowsprit doesn’t appear to be described in the manual or plans…and in the AOTS it shows it is attached with a pin, but I have seen some build use rope lashing.  WTH?  Anyway, I will see what I can find and pick an appropriate technique.  I have about completed all the lathe work and need to touch up some of the masts and yards, but I am forging ahead now that I am back on the island.  Thanks for stopping by and offering any thoughts and advice!!!

 

 

[glbarlow]

It is true the masts and especially the rigging rely mostly if not completely on the plans, just to make it more fun and interesting. Either the pin or some PVA or both works, the rope lashing wouldn’t hold it by itself very well.  

Here’s mine if it helps, I believe I both pinned and glued it
 

Edited June 13, 2023 by glbarlow

[Beef Wellington]

It seems very odd that the jib-boom would be secured without a rope lashing, and I suspect it is an omission in the AOTS.

[HardeeHarHar]

I have seen some other builds with lashing.  I believe I am going to glue it, pin it, and lash it =).  I do agree, it gets a lot more "fun" when the instructions in the manual and the plans start to leave much to the imagination.  Heh heh heh sigh.

[Glen McGuire]

5 hours ago, HardeeHarHar said:

I wonder if I am the only one who gets anxious and hesitant when it comes to doing some new tasks involved in the build.

I promise you, Brian, you ain't the only one!!

 

This is the first time I've looked into this build.  You have done very nice work so far!

[glbarlow]

I probably should have also lashed it, but it didn’t show that on the plans.  This is one of my first builds. I didn’t stray far from the plans back then. 

[HardeeHarHar]

6 hours ago, Glen McGuire said:

I promise you, Brian, you ain't the only one!!

 

This is the first time I've looked into this build.  You have done very nice work so far!

I appreciate your comments, and have enjoyed your builds and the quality of your work Glen!!!

[HardeeHarHar]

World’s slowest build…Main mast, with deadeyes.  Should I glue the deadeye chain/shackle to the top to hold them in place firmly during rigging?!?

 

I still need to finish the boxwood mast with a couple of coats of Danish oil to make it look it’s best.

 

Edited June 26, 2023 by HardeeHarHar

[AJohnson]

Looking good Brian. I do glue deadeyes and chains in place. Mainly to stop the deadeyes rotating when rigging, I just use dilute pva to keep everything still and in place, the rigging will fix all in place in the end. 

Edited July 10, 2023 by AJohnson

[HardeeHarHar]

5 hours ago, AJohnson said:

Looking good Brian. I do glue deadeyes and chains in place. Mainly to stop the deadeyes rotating when rigging, I just use dilute pva to keep everything still and in place, the rigging will fixall in place in the end. 

Thanks Brother Andrew!  I really appreciate your help and positive feedback.  I put a little dab of CA to lock the deadeyes and keep them from rotating, but wasn't sure if it was ok to look the chains in the mast top too. It seemed like it would be hard to get the rigging fully in place properly, if they weren't held firmly in place.  I probably would have used CA, but as you recommend, I suspect a little dilute PVA will be able to get ahold of the paint on the metal and hold it as good if not better than CA...Thanks again for your help Andrew, and thanks to everyone else for visiting the build log.

[HardeeHarHar]

It is amazing what a high quality drill bit can do compared to the horrible stuff that is sold on Amazon.  Despite all my fear and trepidation about the task, the chains have all been pinned to the side of the hull without any breakage of drill bits.  It took about 2.5 hours for each side, but they look decent in the end I think.

[glbarlow]

I’m in a never ending search for quality drill bits at the size we need them. They are worth the search.   
 

Nicely done!

[HardeeHarHar]

Had a stab at the messenger lines and the anchor cables.  I prepped, stained and installed the snatch blocks to the walls of the mortar housing, then wound the messenger around the windlass/capstan as per the instructions.  I was able to keep the line taut and get everything where it should be.  Then I had a little bit of difficulty getting the anchor line passed under the forecastle deck as I had put bow chasers in there, and some barrels that no one will ever see.  It finally occurred to me that I could SIMPLE REMOVE THE BOWSPRIT that I had just sitting there in the way.  When I did that, I got the first one to run down the port side and down the hatch as it should.  I still have to run the starboard anchor line and tie both off to their messenger lines with "little nippers".  Did I mention I am slow at this?