Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48

[stuglo]

Upper Capstan. 

Connected to the Lower Capstan’s spindle, through the quarterdeck Capstan Partners.

Some differences from the L.C. build.(Spindle previously made along with its lower counterpart.)

The Whelps- height 19.1mm, wedge shaped section- width 3.9mm outer and 2.9mm inner.

Depth at base 4.9mm  tapering to 3.4 mm at top.-”dog leg” about ¾ of the way.

I used MAGIC WOOD (otherwise known as boxwood). It really is fantastic. Imagine a whole model with the stuff !

I shaped the tapering with the mill and sanding board.

I also milled the scores for Chocks.

The upper chock is 1mm, the lower1.66mm.

The Upper chock has a convex outer edge- the Lower is concave.

After assembly and gluing, turned the whole on a lathe to form outer curve on whelps and chocks, and used a sanding stick.

The concave edge of the Lower Chocks then formed with a round file.

 

[stuglo]

The Upper Capstan, cont.

The Drumhead.

Again, 2 layers- upper 3.05mm, lower2.65mm.

Each formed by joining 2 halves.

The Tenon of the Lower Spindle passes through the lower layer and is mortised by 0.8mm into the upper layer.

Unlike the Lower Capstan, there are 10 Bars, and the surfaces therefore needed to be scored.

I first cut out the hole and made the mortice with the mill, files and blade.

The part of the bar to be inserted is 5mm long, 1.99 sq. tapering to 1.38mm sq.

The TFFM illustration shows a “shoulder”. Google images show most without, but after making them, Iput in this shoulder because I deliberately made the scores undersize, to allow fof later adjustments where the upper and lower layers meet exactly.

I’ve had this problem before, even with the Proxxon Dividing Head. In theory, it should be easy.

Just divide 360degs. by the number of Bars and turn the Head. 

I used a 1.3 bit, but errors occurred when eying the divisions.

 

******** I found that the head “creeped” around a degree or 2. Presumably the movement of the bit caused this. If the screw stopping this rotation is used to stop this, I worried the clamps of the chuck would loosen. I stabilised with a finger grip, but there must be a better solution.******

 

I omitted the scoring on the underside for the whelps.

The Iron Reinforcing Rings are platted thread, 1.7x0.2mm and fitted into both upper and lower surfaces with the mill dividing head.

I drilled the 10 holes for the Retaining Pins, by fitting the dividing head to my drill press.

[stuglo]

Upper Capstan cont.

  Capstan Bars.

Bars are 54mm long but otherwise the same as the Lower Capstan Bars.

The inner end,from shoulder 1.99 tapers to 1.38. The outer (long) end also tapers to 1.38mm but is chamfered and rounded for most of its length. (lathe and sandpaper strips)

Although not shown, other images, including the 3D rendering, show a thin central cap on the upper surface of the capstan. This I added.

Also as per Lower Capstan has a pair of Capstan Pawls. 

These I made from wood (Previously for the LC, use some blacked copper.

I intend to fit the Drumhead and Bars at end of build- they are very vulnerable

 

[stuglo]

Brake Pumps, cont.

Tubes previously made, delayed finishing to avoid damage.

For the Fork - thin strips of wood -the lower ⅔ a “sandwich”

Handle- a piece of spare copper blackened with sulphate solution

Spear- eyebolt similarly treated-piecing a short wooden dowel acting as the upper box/

Iron Band-black thick paper.

[stuglo]

Quarter Deck Ladder 

Already made several ladders and wouldn't normally repeat a blog but -

I can use the word DADO again

      2) remark on my repeated failures to make a matching pair of Styles using the technique that was easy and so successful a few months ago. Only after some hours did I realise the “guide” was no longer fully fixed and the distance between the grooves varied, especially when the angle jig was reversed. Glued a new one. 

Lesson : worth checking the obvious when things go wrong

[stuglo]

Ladder Way Stantions.

My previous post was about the problems making the ladder. An additional reason was an “evil eye” (if you believe in such things) because, planning ahead, I decided to go against the TFFM (our bible) and not site the aft pair of stanchions on the capstan partners as suggested. 

Grossly ignorant in such things, it seemed illogical. The coamings were more often than not, at a distance from the partners (see google images and a few reference books). 

TFFM mentions the Fly plans. Stanchions are not shown on my Atalanta plans, but as an example of inconsistency, and therefore inaccuracy, the Capstan is shown parallel to the deck on the profile plans, and horizontal on the sheer plans.

Could the Fly plans be wrong? Or am I missing something?

( I remember as a schoolboy, being taken to see one  of several famous old bibles that had a printing mistake on display.)

[stuglo]

Ladderway Stantions, cont.

Metal uprights, thickness 0.66mm tapering to 0.53 mm at the top, which is surmounted bi a Finial or knob.

Height of forepair, 19.2mm- with a couple of extra mms to sit in the mounting holes. They are removable to allow fitting and use of the Capstan Bars.

Below the Finial are a pair of rings, set into which the Rails (0.4mm) fit.

At the opening of the stairs, the rope handrails are attached, the other ends of which are attached to bolts into the deck at the foot of the stairs.

To see how it should be done, I refer you to the Dan Vadas blog.

I took dressmaking pins (0.75mm), common kit eyebolts, bent at 45deg and shortened, glued and tied to the pin and spray painted them black.

The rails, 0.4mm black-coated copper. 

 

[allanyed]

Your build is looking really good Stuglo.

I took a closer look at the Atalanta drawing in your recent photo and found it is in very high resolution on the Wiki Commons site (16,202X6730)   It shows some incredible detail that would be useful for a lot of builds including shapes of stanchions, well louver slat sizes, light room lantern, and more.   Anyone building a Swan class vessel  is lucky to have these detailed drawings available for free.  It would be useful for additional vessel classes as well in many ways.

I look forward to your next posts

Allan   

[stuglo]

Please can you tell us how we can find this site - I googled it with 0 result

[iMustBeCrazy]

24 minutes ago, stuglo said:

Please can you tell us how we can find this site - I googled it with 0 result

Generally, go to https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Main_Page  and in the search box (top right) type in rmg and the ships name (and year if known) eg: rmg Atalanta (1775)

 

That should give you https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?search=rmg+Atalanta+(1775)&title=Special:MediaSearch&go=Go&type=image

 

I then find it easiest to right click on each image and open in a new tab. In the new tab click on 'Original file' then save the image. Note that only the outboard and inboard profiles are high res.

 

Credit to Allan for finding them.

Edited September 13, 2022 by iMustBeCrazy

[stuglo]

Thank you. The additional detail and clarity is most useful.

[stuglo]

Quarter Deck Breastwork.

Consist of 5 turned Stantions, paired base slots for 2 sheaves and 2 parallel Rails.

Stock 3mm sq for stanchions- TFFM earlier showed a method of reproducing turned stanchions, but I can’t see how to adapt my primitive unimat 1. 

S used left-over stanchions from an old kit.

Sheaves- 2.78x0.4mm . My brass rods are 2 or 4mm, so I took copper rings (2.9x0.74) and sanded them to correct thickness.

For the slotted base- a “sandwich” of 0.7mm strips.

The Rails : 5.5x1.33mm thick. As before, tenon for stanchion with a 1.25mm strip to enclose .

Height extension of stantion with square stock, again enclosed by rail and sanded flush to its upper surface.

[stuglo]

Quarter Deck Breastwork, revisited.

Well that attempt was not exactly satisfactory, so try again.

Start with the block for the whole length,turned using a shaped cutter fixed in the lathe. 

It Works !!

I have found that cutting slots this thin, even with a drill press, doesn't give me a correctly-positioned hole/slit on either side of the piece, so I cut a wider slot, 1.6mm and put a 0.75 mm “wall” in the center to separate the sheaves.

I think this looks better than the previous attempt.

Don’t forget to pin as well as glue , to the deck- because I did !!

[stuglo]

Fixed Gangway

A short platform forward of the Quarter Deck. 

Supported by a frame, the top of which is level with the Planksheer (not yet fitted), and athwartship ends tenoned onto the string at the waist. 

Therefore the Gangway surface is proud of this. It is angled to match the deck camber.

The perimeter beams are 2.12 mm sq-athwartship 1.12 x1.59 mm thick.

The foremost frame sits between 2 knees..

The Gangplanks are 4.77mm wide and 1.33mm thick, surrounded by a frame 3.25mm wide, slightly larger than the frame it sits on.

 

Planksheer.

1.6mm thick, overhanging the outer planking by 1.6mm, and flush with the inner hull planking.

I found “molding” the outer edge impossible, and so only chamfered it.

 

Gangplanks.

A pair, each 4.77mm wide, sitting on knees previously fitted, outer edge against the planksheer at an angle to match the deck.

Extends beneath the foredeck to the forepart of Gangway frame.

The 2 planks are fastened together with bolts 25mm apart.

 

Breasthook over the Bowsprit

Fits just below the Drift Rail, 4.1mm thick- length along arms 70mm

Sanded so the upper  surface is flush with the toptimbers.

The central part, underside needs hollowing out to allow fitting of the Bowsprit. This I did after gluing in place.

 

[French Mr Bean]

Very clean work is perfect.

[stuglo]

Structures of the Head.

I always considered these the most difficult part of a build -even with a kit.

TFFM seems to lay out instructions and an  order that hopefully will minimize the stress and mistakes.

Lower Cheek

Shaped like a knee.

Foreward arm, with slight upward curve- the arm against the hull almost straight and follows the lower edge of the center wale, to which it is attached.

Sided 3.45mm-slightly tapering forward

Depth (looking from above) 4.24 mm tapering to 1.72m

(As no planks on port side, thicker part to compensate)

I used the horizontal pattern then the side view pattern for cutting to shape and sanded to fit.

Molding with a shaped chisel blade.

The foreward extension is too long-will be altered later when the Figurehead is fitted.

 

[stuglo]

Upper Cheek

Same basic shape as lower cheek but extentends upward and forward in an extra piece, called a Hair Bracket, that is connected by a scarf joint.

The parallel part is separated from the Lower Cheek by a gap of 6.9mm

It is sided at 3.18, narrowing to 2.65 forward, with width 4.0 to 1.6mm before widening at the top to 2.5mm

The TFFM suggests making in the 2 parts, sticking them together, and then attaching them.

I found that I couldn’t keep the aft part still without gluing it in place first.

(Because the part is narrower, a new mold-maker was required)

I made the Hair Bracket at more than double thickness, cut it in half with bandsaw, so that both halves would match.

The topmost part , has a scroll or other fancy molding, and matches form of the Extension Piece of the Knee of the Head

[stuglo]

forgot this picture

[stuglo]

Wash Cant

Placed under the Lower Cheek to act as protection. I misunderstood the instructions and made it too thick. Reviewing the 3D  rendering, I saw that it thins toward its aft end. I reshaped it while in situ with a chisel blade and sanding stick. 

The spaced scores represent plank joints, as it is said not to have been made out of a solid piece of wood.

 

Trail Boards

Between Upper and Lower Cheeks. Variation among different ships as the aft extension.

Thickness 1.6mm.

It was carved, but I have simply used a variable-coloured grained wood.

 

The is a Chock above either side of the Gammoning Slot.

Its lower edge is rounded to facilitate the Gammoning.

My chock is too narrow as the slit should have been lower.

 

Bolster.

A chock to reduce wear on the cables.

Back shaped to fit hull. Thickness less than the lower Cheek it sits on.

The groove extends half way up the Hawse holes

(I removed the brass portholes and blackened the area to represent lead lining)

The Bolster is rounded front and sides, attached with 3 pairs of bolts

[stuglo]

The Main Rail

TFFM says not to worry-easier than it looks Ha! Ha!

Good explanation about the plans distorting, but I didn’t understand the solution. So I just cut the pattern of the expanded example, backed onto card and it seemed to fit.

The Rail consists of 3 parts- Main (outer), Lining(inner) and Planksheer(above).

The first two have scarfe joints that are staggered.

Stock for the outer rail is 2.9mm sq.- lining 2.9x1.33 mm.

 

In order to make the Timberhead, I made the aftermost part of each rail first.

 These were placed in a jig so the shaping was consistent.

(The Jig was milled and filled and the base of the groove is colored to show when to limit the shaping of the piece-using a sanding stick)

 

[stuglo]

Main Rail cont.

Laying down the outer rail first on the pattern, then completing the lining.

The combined piece is left slightly over long until a groove, triangular in section, is scored into the aft face to allow fitting against the Cathead.

The  Main Rail also narrows moving forward, BUT ONLY IN THE OUTER RAIL.

I.e. the Lining thickness remains constant.

1.33+2.9 narrows to 1.33+1.5mm.

[stuglo]

Molding of the Main Rail

Below the level of the Carhead are 2 “step downs”

The 1st thins the Rail by 0.53mm- upper and lower limiting lines supposed to be “S” shaped-easier said than done.

The next step meets the depth of the groove of the molding.

The outer face of the Rail is beveled to half thickness at lower edge to simplify the scrapping.

I had no readymade scrappers to match the patterns suggested- in any case I made a fundamental error in using cherry instead of boxwood-the cherry doesn’t take to scrapping and the end result was not satisfactory.

TFFM suggests the possibility of extra run of molding, but I wanted a contrast and used a separate planksheer. Even though this is only 0.53mm, the blackhorn is brittle, so I used hot water and a bending jig.

A thin overlap outwards and the inner side is trimmed to match the inner edge of the lining rail.

 

Scoring for the Cathead, a triangular section groove so that the top of the Timberhead is 9.5mm above the Toptimber Line.(Some of the hull molding e.g. sheer, needs cutting away.

The assembly can be fitted so the whole is in a vertical plane, and the Timberhead is also vertical.Also check for symmetry of the curves when eyeballing from the stem.( Not so easy as the wales and moldings are on one side only on my model.)

The foremost end is shaped to fit behind the Hair Bracket. 

When all seems set, I’m left with a small gap between these ends.

There is a bolster to be fitted later, to finish this off. I fitted it now so I won’t see the error which otherwise would annoy me and force me to scrap the lot and start again !.

 

[stuglo]

Head Beam 

Runs athwartship and ties the Head Rails together.

Sided 3.98mm deep 2.9mm. In section parallelogram.

Rounded up by 0.8mm. 

Half-jointed to the Standard (of stem), which is curved - the mortice adjusted for this.

(of course, after making this perfectly, I realised it was upside down instead of upper surface convex. CHECK EVERYTHING TWICE).

Do not fix it permanently yet.

 

Knees

Reinforces corner of Beam and Main Rail

Sided 2.12mm. Arms 14.3

Do not fix it permanently yet.

[stuglo]

Head Beam 

Runs athwartship and ties the Head Rails together.

Sided 3.98mm deep 2.9mm. In section parallelogram.

Rounded up by 0.8mm. 

Half-jointed to the Standard (of stem), which is curved - the mortice adjusted for this.

(of course, after making this perfectly, I realised it was upside down instead of upper surface convex. CHECK EVERYTHING TWICE).

Do not fix it permanently yet.

 

Knees

Reinforces corner of Beam and Main Rail

Sided 2.12mm. Arms 14.3

Do not fix it permanently yet.

[stuglo]

The False Rail

Shaped board-like structure fixed to the curve of the Main Rail

Inboard flat, outboard paneled effect.The inner face flush with the Main Rail Lining.

Thickness, 2.12 mm with groove recess 0.53

I didn’t feel able to make this recess at a constant depth, so I made a composite of 3 pieces:

Base of 1.6mm, a surround of 0.53mm and an insert of 0.53mm

(the Hornbeam blackwood is brittle and cutting part cross-grain caused the need for some repair after it was stuck to its base)

[stuglo]

#414 should be titled -

Cross Piece of the Head

(A really fiddly little bit to make)

Positioned with 4th Head Timber above the fore edge of the Trail Board, between the Main Rails.

It performs a similar function to the Head Beam.

It is 1.6mm wide, with a rhomboidal section.

Similar rounding up 0.8mm, the upper and lower surfaces  beveled to follow the curve of the Main Rail.

I started with a block 6.6 deep to allow for the various curves. The ends are angled acutely to fit between the Main Rail. 

 Again not permanently fixed.

[stuglo]

.

Head Carlings

These are a pair of fore-aft members used for the support of the Head Gratings.

They are let into the Head Beam and Crosspiece.

They are 1.6mm (from above) and 2.12mm deep.

They follow the curve of the Main Rail BUT from the SHEER plan (not the expanded view)

They separated to allow the Gammoning to pass between them.

The mortices in the Head Beam and Crosspiece are milled off-model .

I now realised that the Head Beam should be set further aft- the upright of the Standard is too wide and therefore sanded back.

The Carlings will be remade, longer, to fit the new position, when the Head Beam and Crosspiece are permanently fixed in position.

[stuglo]

Lower Rail of the Head

Rests aft on the inner “arm” of the Hawse Bolster, and fore , the rising Hair Bracket.

The width (from above) is 1.9mm aft narrowing to 1.5mm fore.

Depth, 3mm to 2.4.

The molding starts a few mm before the aft end.

The points of contact with the Hull Requires shaping for the acute, curved angle.

*This rail as pictured is too high on the Hair Bracket, but in any case will be removed and replaced a number of times to allow the further building of the Head.

[stuglo]

Preparation for the Head Gratings

A series of ledges which form the surface of the head.

1.6mm wide, the section shape changes with their position.

 

The Batten.

 Runs round the Bow, the upper surface level with the Head Beam and Knees.

They are 2.1mm deep and 1.6mm wide ( as I did not plank the port hull, this thickness is added to the portside width). 

The position of the forward sections of the Waist, Sheer and Drift Rails need slightly altering and are removed.

(The patterns in TFFM show starboard different to port- to allow the optional fitting of an aft pair of seats of ease. I will not fit these.)

The Battens, Beam and Knees are removed so the mortises for the Ledges can be milled. (Ledges 1.6mm wide). These form a “fan”shape, and off model their position and angle can be matched.

The Battens are now fixed, Beam,Cross Piece, Carlings are temporarily removed.

 

[stuglo]

The Head Timbers 

 

This is probably the most difficult and complex part of the build so far.

 

No wonder kits either omit or provide the whole as a preformed piece.

3D was helpful in how it should look-but not how to get there.

Dan Vardas , usually incredibly helpful, omits much of the process and mentions a problem with a camera. I suspect he threw it out of a sense of frustration.

Reliable TFFM was detailed - I just couldn’t understand most of it. (post-covid brain)

 

First decide the model has 3 or 4 Head Timbers- my plans do not show #1 - the aftermost. (thankfully).

#2 is below the Head Beam.

#4 is above the fore edge of the Trail Board.

#3 is between #2 and 4.

Their width varied- #2 -2.65mm, #3 2.4mm. #4-1.9mm

.

Anyway, the drafting advice was beyond me at my best.

It suggested as an alternative a CARD method. which I adapted.

Firstly remove the Carlings,Beam, and Crosspiece- I decided to leave the Main Rail in position, however.

 Starting with #4

A piece of card is cut to the height between the upper cheek and main rail, and depth from the outer edge of the main rail to the Knee of the Head, at position of the aft (larger in this case) surface.

The Lower Rail is still in place, and its position marked on the card. A slot is cut at this level.

It was seen that my Lower Rail was too high on the Hair Bracket and was adjusted to sit lower,

The new position and slot adjusted to the card.

This is repeated for Timbers #3 and #2.

The Lower Rail is removed and each card is held in place so that the depth of the slot can be adjusted so the Lower rail can fit into its position.

This is repeated for the other side of the head.

A bridging piece is needed so as to include the width of the Extension piece of the Head for #4 and #3 (#2 sits either side and therefore aren’t joined).

The aforementioned difficulties are now apparent. The various and varying angles particularly with the Main Rail need addressing.

TFFM gives a way of marking the various angles with additional slips of card, but this didn;t work for me.

I went straight to a blank, roughly shaped to the card, and then by trial and error fitted into position. Then fashion the slot for the Lower Rail.

 Note that, because of the acute curve of the Extension and Main Rail, slight change of position has a huge effect on the fit. Temporary gluing in place and releasing with alcohol is required (Unlike TFFM, I found photo glue not suitable)

Note also to shape upper surfaces to allow fitting of the Beam and Cross Beam.

The Outer surface (with its angle following the Main Rail ) can now be roughed out, It was found that the slot allowing the Lower Tail, requires “closing” and some additional wood was added.

A final shaping of this surface requires some care, with protecting the Rails. VERY careful use of the sanding drum and the same drum, handheld, did the job.

This surface is covered by a Covering Board, 0.53 mm in thickness.

It is supposed to be paneled, but I made the whole from my black hornbeam wood.

To enable this to be fitted, the outer surface of the Timbers are cut back by 0.53mm, so that this Board is flush with the outer edge of the Main Rail above and the Upper Cheek below.

PHEW !!!!