Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48

[stuglo]

11 hours ago, druxey said:

I find flexible wood sanding sticks with a small handle helpful for inner fairing, other than at the extreme ends of the hull. 

Not quite sure what you mean. Any pictures would be welcome. 

[tlevine]

I also used a flex shaft and right angle attachment for my Dremel with a sanding disc for the initial sanding.  Looking good, even if you are frustrated.

[druxey]

Here is an example of sanding stick:

 

The sandpaper is rubber-cemented on the lower side  of the thin, flexible batten, so is easily replaced.

 

[stuglo]

Now I understand. Long and and rigid didn't work well on the inside. 

[druxey]

Not too long or too wide, either!

[Maury S]

Druxey,

 Hard to tell the size from the photo.  How long and wide is your example?

Maury

[druxey]

About ¼" by 3", but I make them in all kinds of sizes depending on the application.

[Maury S]

Thanks, that  puts things into perspective.  

Maury

[stuglo]

"Here is an example of sanding stick:

The sandpaper is rubber-cemented on the lower side  of the thin, flexible batten, so is easily replaced."

Inspired, I took a well used emery board (nail file) from one of the cheap beauty care shops and it works very well with a piece of broken belt sanding strip. 

Throw nothing away!

[stuglo]

[druxey]

I have a whole box full of different flexible and rigid sanding sticks and blocks. The blocks have convex and concave surfaces in different radii. Great for sanding things like stem pieces or deck beams.

[stuglo]

Ports-opening and fitting mortisses.

Leaving the finer fairing for later, moved on to the ports.

(Gives a rest to the shoulders and breaks the monotony.)

Using the sheer plan, take measurements for the openings using the build board level as a base line. To minimise confusion and mistakes, mark out the stations on the top of the frames.

Tried various methods including  a proper waterline tool(surface guage)- but found ruler , perspex block spirit level + horizontal eyeballing, the best for me.

The base measure is the lower line of each opening, which is the upper level of lower sill.

The gun port sills are 2.65mm thick, sweep port’s -2.27mm.

The line is parallel to the gundeck level.It also forms the upper level of sweep ports.They are not horizontal.

For example, starting with the central frame “o”-the lower sill top is 11.05mm on my plan.

The line for the bottom of this sill is 2.65 LESS.

With a vertical gap of 14.3mm, the lower level of upper sill is 11..05+14.3, and its upper level is another 2.65mm MORE.

I cut a 1mm deep notch between the makings for seating the sill. (micro saw and file)

I tried the angled sill fitting as per TFFMon some scrap but it was beyond me.

Making these markings and the care required for accuracy emphasised that measuring and making at an earlier stage would have been a mistake. The couple I did, needed filling.

**Amidships, the sill hight extends to the tops of the frames.**

I marked all the gun ports and made them alternating port and starboard.

I made the width of the sill to fit as there is a slight difference in the space between frame, even though it was supposed to be 15.11mm.

The sweep ports have a thinner sill (2.27mm)and as the lower line of the gap is the same, the lower line of the notch, is 11.05-2.27mm- in this “O” example.

(seems complicated on reading, but is simple on doing)

These sweep ports are 4.24mm square- the upper sill is marked as 11.05+4.24 and another line another 2.27mm.

These were similarly notched at 1mm depth.

As discussed some weeks ago, the frame spacing does not allow for a width of 4.24mm. Therefore, the space is formed after the sills are fitted. I.e. Sills made at width of 6.24  and the depth of the notches made to accommodate this.

Then the gap between the frame is widened to the required 4.24mm (Not symetrically- one side or other looks “better”)

More fairing of the new “inserts” and remove the temporary extra spacers.

Looking better I think.

[stuglo]

Openings for fixed blocks.

 

Amidships, double block fore of gun port 5, single block aft of gun port 3.

Upper margin in line with upper margin of ports. 

Width of both 10mm, height of double 4.7, single, 3.6mm.

I replaced the spacers above the respective sweep ports to close the gaps between the frames and strengthen the opening.

I don't have suitable brass rods or the ability to make the small discs to represent the shreeves. 

Cutting very thin slices( less than 1mm) of wood from a dowel similarly seemed too difficult.

So I took some old thin planking strip 6mm wide, cut 8 approx., squares and stuck one on top of the other. A 4mm rod stuck to one end for the chuck to grip on, and when dry, turned to column against a sanding stick. When rounded to size, 7mm diameter, soaked them in some alcohol to seperate them and colour black with felt-tip.

TFFM says the thickness of single and lower of the double is 9.3 mm, the upper0.5mm. A couple of passes with a file reduced it slightly, but I’d forgotten to make the upper slit of the double block narrower in any case.( I don’t know if I’ll remake them or not).

Rather than a sandwich of several pieces, I milled out the blocks from  solid pieces.

The depth of the blocks are more than the thickness of the hull to allow for planking, so I made the blocks with an extra 5+mm depth and unglued, for later adaption and fixing. 

[stuglo]

For a change from fairing-

Pumps

 

Some notching to allow pumps to reach lower into the - my plan shows situated on the aft frame #4 and fore frame of #3 either side of keel-to width of 7.5mm.Wood removed with milling bit in drill.

 Keelson.

 

Good detailed explanation in TFFM.

Made in 5 sections from blanks of 6.34 mm(width) by 6.89mm.

Shape and position of joints are shown on the sheer plan. Using cut outs from printed copies, the resulting wood when shaped needed little correction. Joints are hooked scarphs.

Dry fit before gluing to refine joint, and chamfer upper edges (1.6mm).along the length.

The foremost part required some narrowing in order to fit the channel where it joins the fore extension of the keelon , called the stemson.

This is made from a 4.77mm width  blank.

This piece is also scored on the 3 exposed surfaces in 3 places to accommodate the lower breast hook, lower deck hook and upper breast hooks.

They were milled to a depth of 0.8mm and width as per plan.

Similar marks on the sheer plan slightly before the keelson/stemson joint and on the aftmost section of keelson (“crutch” at station 20). As I hadn’t glued the former yet, I decided to add it, in case needed later.

Decided to use some brass pins as securing bolts- big mistake as messed up some.(despite “pusher” some bent or not centered). Will rectify another time when I work out how to remove them without damaging the wood..

[stuglo]

Ribbands and Harpins.

First, another thank you to Kevin Kenny- by using the epoxy to glue the joints of the frames, they are clearly marked -PAV glue was invisible and needed enhancing.

The placement of the ribbands depends on the line of these joints.

They give temporary support to the frames while the planking is applied. 

I have decided to plank the inner port side and upper exterior starboard side to allow viewing of internal structures as well as the framing of the hull.

It is easier to work with the hull upside down.

TFFM suggests starting with lowest floor head line-lower chock line on frame plans.A line is marked at 9.5mmbelow this -extending stem to stern.

The stem piece or harpin, ends in an angled “corner”, and this was made from a thicker piece and shaped to fit and after gluing in place, further shaped to merge with the ribband.

Although making the ribband as a single piece gives a smooth curve, I cut to approx 10cm lengths.

The next ribband is a line formed halfway between the floor and 1st futtock heads.

Next is the 2nd futtock -a line halfway between 1st and 2nd futtock heads.

Above is the toptimber, a line 6.36mm below the port line

The top ribband is 4.77mm below the sheer line -the top of the timbers at the waist and extended for and aft to stem and counter timber.

The last 2 ribbands left off the starboard side to allow for partial external planning.

I used teak oil on the port side to give an idea of final appearance and show imperfections that can be attended to.

[stuglo]

The treenails are black wood (originally 1x1mm squares reduced be Byrnes draw plate)

[stuglo]

And now for something completely different-a change from framing- 

 

The Limber Strakes

 - a pair “planks” the lowest  lining of the hull,running alongside the keelson.

( Also a change of wood. Poplar, variable pale colour and soft. Probably not a good choice, but using PVA glue, I can change if not happy. )

I printed up the internal planking expansion at scale 1:48 to help position and tapering.

Also stuck paper strip on keelson with stations marked as these will be often referenced.

The INNER strake is 6.36mm wide and 2.39mm thick-narrowing over last 6 cms by 1.06mm.

The upper inner edge has a 1.3mm square rebate (to accommodate limber boards)

The other our edge is chamfered.

Made in 4 lengths, fore reaches #K aft, stern on #9aft.

Amidships the strake is separated by a gap of 5.83 mm from the keelson, half that ends.

Triangular pieces, from outer edge to keelson, continue for 5.2 cm foreward, and 7.3cm aft. These pieces also thin down to 1.06mm at point.

The strakes are also divided into 4 pieces along its length- butt joints located on stations as shown and described in TFFM.

Subsequent strakes and planks have butts staggered in 3 step pattern.

The OUTER limber strake.

5.3mmx1.6mm lies next to inner strake, extending to overlap”triangle” and meet keelson, with narrowing by approx 1mm over last 9cm.

[druxey]

Isn't it a relief to move on from framing? Your lower ceiling planks look very good.

[stuglo]

Ceiling planks.

A series of 3 thin planks above the limber strakes-optional, and will probably fit later, and only on the port side.

“Thickstuff” over the floor heads.

Strakes #6,#7,#8.

The middle narrows and end in a notch formed by its upper and lower neighbours thus avoiding narrowing to a point.

Using the (as usual good) advice of TFFM, used paper strips to mark the line of #6 as measured from the upper margin outer limber strake.

Starting with 15.9mm amidships, the spacings are given for to aft.

#6 strake is 6.36mm wide and 1.6 mm thick

Given the 3 step pattern and the same number of ceiling planks (not yet fitted), this #6 butts on same frame as outer limber (#2).

Tapering aft to 5.57, a butt on cant 11, it continues to the keelson.

Forewards, it narrows to 4mm. An angled notch is cut at level #5cant, ane the stake is further narrowed before this so that the “waist” of the notch is 2.65mm.

The whole is camfered on lower edge.

#7, middle strake, is 7.42 wide and 2.39thick before narrowing for lower edge to fit the notch on #6, and 5.3mm aft to finish aft cantand keelson. Both edges camfered.

#8 strake width 6.36 and thickness 1.69mm. Notched and narrowed to compliment #6 and enclose the end of #7.

The aft end rises above the level of the keelson to the aft cant despite some narrowing. TFFM mentions this shouldn’t be (if I understand correctly) Kenny narrows it further to fit but Dan Vardas seems to leave it -so will I at present.

[stuglo]

****The problem of thick wood and bending sideways.****

Over relatively short sections, this isn’t easy. Soaking, heat doesn’t always avoid kinking and splitting and the compound curve adds complication. ?Each piece would require its own jig or better still cut the piece as a curve - a sort of spilling.

I am trying POPLAR as it is relatively soft.

One way is to let a wetted plank dry in situ while being held in place various clamps.( Because of the position and narrow gaps between frames, these will have to be made and sourcing the hardware will be difficult and course delays.)

When dry, it can be glued and re-clamped.

I’m trying something else.

The piece, with PVA glue, is nailed in position on each frame with some side clamping. Working quickly with drill and forceps from one end, it is forced to the required curve.The argument against is that it sets up large forces in the wood and the sharpness of the curve is a limiting factor.

However, I applied its opposite number straight away, and, after leaving the glue to set for a couple of hours, with the pins in place,judiciously wet the wood (but not soaked as usually done before shaping)and left overnight to dry.

The result is fair, needs some remedial work, but is a possible solution for someone lazy/impatient like myself.

 

I invite comments.

When removing the pins, kept skinning my knuckles on the sharp timbertops, thus the protection of gym glove!!

 

[stuglo]

Depth Gauge

(adapted from TFFM and Kevin Kenny)

Necessary for accurate placement of deck clamps etc.

Materials-simple and to hand.

Required to be adaptable to varying width and depth of hull and curves that restrict fixed perpendicular “arm”

Therefore, system that moves both up and down, side to side and arc.

The axis-screw with nylon washer, wing nut.

Clamps, to lock position of sliding bar.

Later addition of pointed foot -broken 0.8mm drill bit

The whole turned 180 to mark the opposite hull wall. 

 

(pictures posted on jig site)

[druxey]

Might I suggest using heat to bend your planks? I use a temperature-controlled iron and wet the wood first. The iron must be hot, but not so hot as to scorch the wood. It's quick , too!

[garyshipwright]

18 hours ago, stuglo said:

Depth Gauge

(adapted from TFFM and Kevin Kenny)

Necessary for accurate placement of deck clamps etc.

Materials-simple and to hand.

Required to be adaptable to varying width and depth of hull and curves that restrict fixed perpendicular “arm”

Therefore, system that moves both up and down, side to side and arc.

The axis-screw with nylon washer, wing nut.

Clamps, to lock position of sliding bar.

Later addition of pointed foot -broken 0.8mm drill bit

The whole turned 180 to mark the opposite hull wall. 

 

(pictures posted on jig site)

Hi Stuglo. Do you have a link to the jig site? I like to take a look at it but can't seem to find it. Keep up the good work and she is looking good. Thank you Gary

[stuglo]

3 hours ago, garyshipwright said:

Hi Stuglo. Do you have a link to the jig site? I like to take a look at it but can't seem to find it. Keep up the good work and she is looking good. Thank you Gary

https://modelshipworld.com/forum/17-model-tips-and-tricks-and-making-jigs/

[stuglo]

18 hours ago, druxey said:

Might I suggest using heat to bend your planks? I use a temperature-controlled iron and wet the wood first. The iron must be hot, but not so hot as to scorch the wood. It's quick , too!

Your correct. I had a mental block thinking this not related to external planking that I have done many times. Nevertheless, bending sideways is difficult, especially without a jig.

I am using the planking expansion plan to fashion the deck clamps and the first few seem to be working out. I'll keep you posted

[stuglo]

Strakes #12-15

The upper pair form the lower deck clamp. therefore these will be fitted before #12and #13

To establish the height/run reference to the sheer plan, BUT the line only is shown extending to station #16 and only later when trial fitting , do I think that it should extend to aft cant at base #4 Transom.

The deck will sit on beams are 3.18,that are "let down"-countersunk, by .53mm, therefore 2.65mm below line.

Rather than mark this directly I put a temporary full length strake of this width to help give a smooth curve which has been difficult, and fix the strake #15 abutting to this.

The plan calls for  TOP and BUTT joints. I've never done this before.

Copying the plan to scale 1:48 and using cut-outs , the shape and curve is obtained.

The #15 is nominally 2.12 thick and 6.89 wide, but with the curve, obviously wider blank is used.

This is thinned from above to below, so that when joined to #14, the lower edge has width of 1.59mm

I can think of no easy way to do this other than adjustment by sanding after both strakes are fixed. 

Also the  upper edge of #15 is "camfered" to a horizontal edge.

There appears to be a problem with fitting the aft ends of the strakes, as the lower strakes are not adequately tapered. I narrowed #8 but still a problem that await a solution to avoid tapering to a point.

[druxey]

The planking expansion is distorted: you will need to actually spile planks to shape. Those on the drawing show the position of the butts and relative widths of planks at different points.

[stuglo]

Strakes #12 and #13

#13 - 2.12mmX6.9mm, abutting #14.

From #Kaft to notch, narrows to 2.65mm

Aft narrows to 4.5mm.

MISTAKE is now glaring. After much mental indigestion, resolve to UNdo and REdo.

Crowding aft will not allow ceiling planks without excessive narrowing to points.More importantly, the choice for the run of the desk clamp was wrong.This time, using the upper desk clamp as source, made the aft (unmarked on plan)section, parallel to this. The upper edge of #15 now to run to upper edge of #4 transom.

The gap between #8 and #13 is still too narrow, (probably because of insufficient narrowing of #6 and #7)but will use stealers/dropped planks rather than remake these.

 

[stuglo]

Upper Deck clamps, strakes #18 +#19

Similar to lower deck clamps, i.e. top and butt joints whose combined width is 13.8 amidships.

Again establish the line of the upper deck from plan.

Allowing 0.53mm let down (recess) lower by 3.18mm (thicker beams), transfer this line to ship.

This line should fall 14.58mm below the gun port lower sills. In fact I used this measurement as my guide- the line extending to just above stemson - 0.53mm, and to the top of the  wing transom aft. Tapering for and aft.

The blank is 2.12mm thick.

With is companion #18, this thickness is reduced vertically so that lower edge of #18 is 1.62 mm

As with the lower clamp, I use the same thickness for both and then sand to size.

 

The pattern taken from TFFM planking expansion diagram are very different this time and I need to make the strakes by trial and error against a baton placed on the upper line.

This is much straighter than the curve on the plan.

Position of joints is as indicated, with slight shift from previous strakes.

The curve demands bending (hot water and adapted soldering iron)

When shapes for sections of #19 ready. Copied to paper so that their neighbour #18 can be drawn and made, and the whole copied for the other side of hull.

Also note that at last I can use some fixing clamps. (Gaps between frames too narrow for screw/nut except in one place.

[stuglo]

String at waist- strake #25,

This is the upper strake at waist, extending between and continuous with clamps of foredeck and quarter deck.(station 5 to #J aft)

Joints are hook-scarphed. They are unusually long, suggested length 2.2-2.5cm.They look difficult because I can't remember making them before but turned out easy enough using a stuck-on pattern.

The strake has a thickness of 1.6mm but width varies to close gap between the bottom of the  upper sills and top of the frames.An additional 2 mm or so in width fore of #G.

 

ANOTHER MISTAKE

 

Having read a couple of pages ahead, I forgot what I was doing and extended this strake to stem and stern.!!!! DA !!!!!DA

Aft, not so terrible as Quater deck has an extra strake (#26.)above.

So could now check heights and fit this,(Note- #25 runs through aft port-not above)

The Forecastle deck clamps, although continuing with strake#25, need recalculation of height because the beams are 2.65mm with NO let down.

Using depth gauge and line joins the dots and the excess height is trimmed away. The strake meets its partner temporarily covering lower ⅓ of bowsprit opening.

As a check, the vertical distance between upper and forecastle clamps is given as 36mm . The vertical distance aft is40mm -widening aftmost.  (TFFM).

Note- the foreward part of #26 form a “bulb”shaped widening (above 6th port) and aft the area above the last port is cut out in shape of thin elongated wing shape and replaced with a similar piece of contrasting wood.

A small extension is left aft of countertimbers.

Chamfer lower lip of #25 alon length.