Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Finished planking the deck today.  There are about one hundred fifty 16" square x 24" basswood planks, plus ten 1/16" x 3/32" x 24" basswood mast partners.  If a modeler is ambitious and wants to do scale length planks (let's say 40' as one member suggested), it will take about 700 of them.  I wiped on and steel-wooled a couple coats of shellac, then added the laser-cut waterways.  Tomorrow, I'll finish fairing the hull and maybe put on the keel, stem, and rudder post.

 

The waterways actually fit the hull with just a tiny bit of tweaking!

bow.jpg

 

After this photo was taken, the transom was shaped to match the curve of the waterway.

stern.jpg

Edited by alross2
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Hull is fully decked and has the waterways added.  Transom is shaped with integral "fashion pieces", and the hull now has its third coat of primer.  .  

 

Deck planking.  I used about one hundred fifty 1/16" sq. x 24" basswood strips for the deck.  

IMG_4459.JPG

 

Transom fitted.  Deck planks inside the waterways are masked.

IMG_4467.JPG

 

Third coat of automotive rattle can primer.  That's a 12" ruler on the hull bottom to give you an idea of scale.

IMG_4475.JPG

Edited by alross2
Posted (edited)

In a rare moment of weakness, I felt bad for the modeler having to drill 250 evenly-spaced holes in the chock rail for the stanchions. 😎The chock rails are now four pieces of laser-cut 1/8" basswood with the holes already there. And, they actually fit the hull...

 

Chock rails are not yet glued down.

IMG_4476.JPG

 

IMG_4477.JPG

 

IMG_4478.JPG

Edited by alross2
Posted (edited)

The chock rails are now glued down and I've added a spacer forward. It's 3/16" at the bow tapering to 1/8" about six inches aft. A few minutes with a block sander will fair it. The brass pins are just to align the holes.

 

IMG_4479.JPG

 

IMG_4480.JPG

Edited by alross2
Posted
This weekend, I was looking at the chock rail photos and something didn't look right. I finally figured out that I had put them too far inboard. Duh!😱 I redrew them on Sunday and had Shane recut them this morning. It only took a couple minutes to strip off the old ones and install the new ones. Much happier now.😎
274687025_10226815934604105_592848559114
 
 
274602568_10226815934804110_692368043230
 
 
 
11
 
 
Seen by 8
Like
 
 
Comment
 
Share
 
 
Posted

Did a little experimenting. Photoetch is becoming increasingly expensive, so I'm seeking alternatives for items which do not require the strength of metal. Previously, small detail items that weren't feasible to make from 1/64 ply were photo-etched. Now that we're using laserboard, things are different. Here are some items cut today from .015" laserboard. The spreader is two pieces laminated together with thin CA and is amazingly strong. The other items are a window frame, a ladder, and the facia for a companion.

IMG_4524.JPG

Posted (edited)

Here's a little surprise I didn't tell you about.  This is a side project I've been working on while also doing WYOMING and OREGON.  This is an HO scale waterline kit of a generic centerboard schooner.  It is based on MATTIE/GRACE BAILEY and is named ELLIE MARA after Nic's daughter.  The hull is cast resin with laser-cut details and the usual britannia fittings.  Overall length is about 14".  It should be in production in a few weeks.  Contact BJ for details.  

 

image.thumb.png.8832a02a01a5415232c682e623adaef7.png

Edited by alross2
Posted

Here are the laser drawings for some of the items I changed over from photoetch to laser. The red lines are cut lines while the black lines are only etched into the surface. These are companions for the deck houses and the scrollwork for the gammon knee.

Untitled-1.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Experimenting with the mast. The bands are black construction paper that will be cut from lasered strips. They are closer to scale thickness than britannia and look like wrought iron, so you don't have to paint them. The items between the blue tape and the doubling are 24 sail hoops lasered from .015" laserboard.  The T shaped object is the laser-cut glut.  Once that is attached, a black paper strap ("barn door") will finish it off.  The boom jaw rest is five pieces of lasered 1/32" ply with a copper tape chafing plate.

IMG_4548.JPG

IMG_4549.JPG

Edited by alross2
Posted

Looking great.  I have nothing to point to, but the red ochre 'waterline' looks awkwardly low on the hull.  Curious what pointed you in the direction of doing it so low.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Admin

  · 6m  · 

Been busy making sticks this week. Still have to add eyepins and blocks to the short booms and gaffs.  The blue tape on the masts is just to keep the sail rings from sliding off before i add the boom jaw rests.

 

IMG_4560.JPG

Edited by alross2
Posted

Working on the channels this morning They're laser-cut with the chain plate slots included. They're easy to set up as the second slot aligns with the center of the mast holes in the deck. The chain plates will be cut to length and a template will be provided to set them at the proper angle. The turnbuckles will attach directly to the chain plates.

IMG_4564.JPG

IMG_4565.JPG

IMG_4566.JPG

Posted

Starboard aft rail with all stanchions in place. Each stanchion has a slight inboard cant to it, so it's best to simply place but not glue then into their holes, then align them one by one with the top rail taped in place, The pegs on the stanchions will be snipped off flush with the top of the rail and will be covered with a .015" laser board cap rail.

IMG_4580 - Copy.JPG

IMG_4582 - Copy.JPG

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...