HMS Bounty by AdamA - 1:48

[AdamA]

[AdamA]

[AdamA]

A little sanding does work wonders.

[AdamA]

I'm not sanding these frames until I get them all up.

[AdamA]

[AdamA]

[AdamA]

[AdamA]

I used a small round file and a razor saw to make this detail on the top of the first forward cant frame. Only 25 to go! 

[AdamA]

Time for a lot of sanding.

[AdamA]

[AdamA]

These lower deck templates will keep the hull at its widest point while I'm sanding the outside to the correct depth. I made them out of some leftover pine we used for baseboards on a new wall downstairs. 

[AdamA]

Dang. The transoms were a smidge too narrow. Oh well. Gotta rip em out.

[AdamA]

I put copper bolts through the frames and into the keel using CA. The drill bit is .5 mm and the copper is 24 gauge so its the same width as the holes 

[AdamA]

[allanyed]

I am a bit late to the party but am happy to see a new scratch build!    If you don't mind a couple comments that are meant to encourage, not discourage   regarding the deadwood forward and aft and the moulded dimensions of the top timbers, please let us know.

Allan   

[AdamA]

I put in a temporary deck to support the frames so I can sand the outside of the frames with mini belt sander (also pictured) to the correct thickness. I feel like this method of getting a good shape is cheating, but here we are. when I build the next one I'll attempt to get the frames the final shape before I attach them to the keel.

[allanyed]

Whatever method that you choose that gets  accurate final results is a good one.   There is no easy way to pre-sand to the final thickness before installing the fames.  Close is good, but getting the bevel started and still leaving a 1/32" or even 1/16" excess is not a bad idea.  You can always remove material but cannot put the wood back on.  

Allan

[AdamA]

Slowly getting there

[AdamA]

I'm going to put the keelson in so I can have a bit more stability for rebuilding and sanding frames. The frames are fairly shifty without it even with the copper bolts into the keel.

[mtaylor]

Looking pretty good from here.   As for the frames moving, wobbling, etc.   Put a spacer or two in between them.  Once planked they won't be seen and if you're leaving off planks to show the framing, you can remove the spacers or just set them outside of the unplanked area.

[AdamA]

Here comes the keelson (along with all its scarf joints)

[AdamA]

There are four of these along the keelson. I rough cut them with the band saw then use a file on them while they're in the vice.

[AdamA]

Sanding is 220-->320-->00 Steel Wool-->000 Steel Wool-->0000 Steel Wool

 

It gives the Swiss Pear a nice polish.

[AdamA]

Ok... I realize this looks bad but hear me out...

 

I found some kind of mite trails through out most of the frames. I also found out that I was not using Swiss Pear for a lot of these frames so when I looked at the whole ship it was two different colors: a drab brown for the parts that were the wrong wood. 

 

So I'm going to rebuild the frames entirely from Swiss Pear. It'll be much faster this time because I have already faired all these so I will be able to cut out the parts almost exactly correct. (OMG)

[Keith Black]

Adam, I admire your determination. Keep up the good fight, you'll get there. 

[AdamA]

I am also going to have all these frames lined up correctly this time. I am pretty happy with how this disaster is going.

 

I used a marker to indicate the meeting places on these [now template] frames.

[AdamA]

The difference between "Pear" and "Swiss Pear" if anyone else was about to make the same mistake I made.

[AdamA]

This piece will eventually be the first half cant frame.

[AdamA]

Here we go. Cant frame 8 will go against all the hawse frames.

[AdamA]

The "practice frames" were both frustrating and great. I hated tearing down all that work. But, without using a computer, I will end up with the frames' scarf joints exactly centered and in line with the other frames' joint lines.