HMS Bounty by Trond - Billing Boats - 1:50

[Trond]

Anchor winch and fore brace bitts (according to Bounty book). .

I need to make some beams on each side of the anchor winch.

Started makeing pumps. Got to use my new plane again, it works great for makeing a round stock to 8 sided stock.

 

 

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  Hi Trond,  I'm no photographer but I've attempted to show a test-of-concept.  First, don't worry about the mortising tool mentioned - the smallest i think they come is 1/2" square and they are used in furniture making.  It was the idea of slicing out a chip from the 'corners' that can make a round hole square.  I took a pencil so one can get the idea of relative scale, and drilled three holes with whatever small drill I chanced to come upon (later measured as .085).  I did not drill very deep since I soon hit pencil 'lead' (graphite).  Obviously, once would not have this problem drilling into a solid wood dowel. The right-hand hole in the pencil was drilled with the drill (shown next to the round hole).  The middle hole has just one corner 'nicked' with the mini 'duck carving' tool to square it.

 

 The tool does not show the right angle tool as well as I'd like - but the hand-me-down camera is limited in close-ups (as is my skill -or lack of it - in photography).  The hole on the left had a chip taken out of all four corners with the 'veiner' (right angle cutter), then I picked at the chips in the hole a little and was able to blow then out with my breath (a blast of 'dust-off' compressed air through the provided extension tube would work just fine for chip removal).

 

  There is a tapered square file that I used to 'dress' the corners a little.  Now there was a slight enlargement so that verniers showed the square hole to be .100 on each side.  Now I've shown proof of concept.  If I wanted a smaller square hole, I could always grind down the sides of the veining tool to make it smaller, and there are really TINY files available in sets having a variety of profiles (round, square, triangular) - but one only need used a square file to dress the hole.  'Hope this helps, and as they say 'Once picture is worth a thousand words.       Johnny

 

 

[Trond]

11 minutes ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

  Hi Trond,  I'm no photographer but I've attempted to show a test-of-concept.  First, don't worry about the mortising tool mentioned - the smallest i think they come is 1/2" square and they are used in furniture making.  It was the idea of slicing out a chip from the 'corners' that can make a round hole square.  I took a pencil so one can get the idea of relative scale, and drilled three holes with whatever small drill I chanced to come upon (later measured as .085).  I did not drill very deep since I soon hit pencil 'lead' (graphite).  Obviously, once would not have this problem drilling into a solid wood dowel. The right-hand hole in the pencil was drilled with the drill (shown next to the round hole).  The middle hole has just one corner 'nicked' with the mini 'duck carving' tool to square it.

 

 The tool does not show the right angle tool as well as I'd like - but the hand-me-down camera is limited in close-ups (as is my skill -or lack of it - in photography).  The hole on the left had a chip taken out of all four corners with the 'veiner' (right angle cutter), then I picked at the chips in the hole a little and was able to blow then out with my breath (a blast of 'dust-off' compressed air through the provided extension tube would work just fine for chip removal).

 

  There is a tapered square file that I used to 'dress' the corners a little.  Now there was a slight enlargement so that verniers showed the square hole to be .100 on each side.  Now I've shown proof of concept.  If I wanted a smaller square hole, I could always grind down the sides of the veining tool to make it smaller, and there are really TINY files available in sets having a variety of profiles (round, square, triangular) - but one only need used a square file to dress the hole.  'Hope this helps, and as they say 'Once picture is worth a thousand words.       Johnny

 

 

Thanks Snug, very informative. I guess my next task is to get those very small tools. I have a set where squere is 1.4x1.4 to 2.7x2.7mm. 

So I will use some time on the web to see if I can get smaller.

 

I guess that a large porttion of building in small scale / small size is to fine tool to fit.

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

   Let's see ... at 1:100 scale (close enough to 1:96 - a scale I've done in the past and also at present), a .100" square hole (my example) represents 10 inches, where  a beam would fit in. Your stated scale is 1:50, so that would represent a hole for a 5" square - still perhaps a bit large, but a .050" square hole (1.3mm) represents about a 2 1/2" square socket.  That may be about right for wooden levers (going from square to round - tapering slightly towards the far end) - or wrought iron bars (square to round) used to work the drum.

 

  If I needed that size, the .070 (1.8mm) right angle veiner would be carefully reduced (ground) along the back edge (unsharp side) of each leg to .050 - or a little less using a rotary tool (like a Dremel, but I prefer the foot controlled variable speed unit I bought at a Harbor Freight ... don't knock it, as working vintage dental drills are priced out of sight).  The mini carving set I found at a one-off (independent) wood working store years ago, but they might have something like that at Woodcraft (a chain) or on line somewhere.  After all, there are decoy and bird art carvers who need fine tools, and some of them might go that small.

 

  Plan B would be to work a piece of harden-able steel to shape, and torch harden it ... hardly as difficult as forging an Aussie knife on Forged in Fire.  Tiny files can also be found as clock makers need them, horological speaking.          Snug

[Trond]

I'll be checking clock maker shops for those tools you mentioned Snug. This I need to get before my next squre hole challange, since the anchor winch is in place and I don't risk damage the ship to get squre holes.

 

Well, in the mean time I've been working on the pumps, a lot of work. Started by making a lever with flexible joint, but I damaged one part and lost it on the floor. Couldn't find it so I had to make new ones, but this time I solder.

In the the "heat of battle" I set the lever on the wrong side, which I saw when it was gluied on.

 

But I can live with it. The work it self I'm satesfied with, only on the wrong side 😌

 

So here is the final outcome.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[AJohnson]

Those pumps are very good Trond, Nice details you are now adding to your build.  👍

[Trond]

Next is railing, cabinet and rudder. As normal I have to use the book, make some sketches with new measurement. It is a tidius work, but also learning. 

 

Found the rudder in the box, but wrong size and center fitting. Origninal size is 25.5mm and the one supplied is 15mm. So I either have to buy it from somewhere or make it my self.

 

 So instead I made the senter railing close to the rudder.

 

I need to do some shoping for parts and wood, since it is either missing or wrong from the kit.

 

 

[Trond]

Finished the shelf by the helm and it turned out ok. Now I need to place it and attach some rope to deck, but I will do that after I finished the helm.

Tried making the helm by using my lath. After two attempts with braking the helm I know i need to get some harder wood, since pine is to soft.

 

[Trond]

Finally fixed my problem in my workshop. Everytime I used the lathe and disk sander I had wood dust all over make a big mess. Had to install a sucction system under the benches and four connection points to hook up hoses. Also made a room under the bench for my vacumer. It gets hot, som I going to use my old vacumer and see how it works.

 

Yellow circle show connection points and hoses. Red circle show where I "hidden" the cavumer.

Also made a extra shelf under the bench, ready for my new mini table saw and thickness sander from Byrnes.  

[Trond]

I had a lot of problems making the helm and had to get different woods, something that is hard.

Did a lot of trial and error.

A lot of  frustration when almost everthing is ready then, the last part of making breaks all.

 

Well, after may tries I got it right, and that makes all the failure forgettable.

 

I used wooden toothpick as base for making the helm pins.

 

 

 

Made a jig for installing the pins.

Picture showing trying out the jiig and see if I drilled the holes correct, inner stem and outer ring, ok.

 

So the final product before paint.

And compare to the kit helm....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 3, 2022 by Trond

[Keith Black]

 Well done, Trond.

[allanyed]

Hi Trond,

 

Kudos for making the wheel from wood!!! It really looks great.

 

Is there a reason you used 12 spokes instead of the 10 (or 8 on smaller ships) normally found on RN ships.    Lavery, Arming and Fitting pages 22 and 23 goes into detail on wheel construction.

 

Allan

Edited July 4, 2022 by allanyed

[Gregory]

John McKay's AOTS shows 12.

 

Goodwin also shows 12 on Blandford.

Edited July 4, 2022 by Gregory

[Trond]

3 hours ago, allanyed said:

Hi Trond,

 

Kudos for making the wheel from wood!!! It really looks great.

 

Is there a reason you used 12 spokes instead of the 10 (or 8 on smaller ships) normally found on RN ships.    Lavery, Arming and Fitting pages 22 and 23 goes into detail on wheel construction.

 

Allan

I'm useing Armed Transport Bounty as referanse since the kit drawing is very bad. In the book the drawings show 12 spokes. It was a very challenging job, but satisfied when I completed it.

Sometime I feel I'm doing more scratch building than kit building and I couldn't have done it without the book.

 

 

 

[AJohnson]

Good work on making your own ships' wheel, I cheated and bought an after market replacement for mine.  So well done! 👍

[Trond]

Here is a try-out on placing out steering wheel, shelf and rope securing station (don't know what is called, need to look it up).

I do have a challange and that is securing the shelf before placeing the rope securing station , in accordence to book.

Does anybody know anything about the securing rope?

 

The only "rope" i have is a whit "rope" that following the kit or black sewing machine thread.

I need to get myself  a rope machine.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[AJohnson]

Must admit, I left off the Binnacle securing rope on my Bounty, it was trapped between the belaying rails, so I chickened out.  I may go back and redo that when I get back to my Bounty.  I will see how you do it! 😁

 

[Gregory]

FWIW, The stack on that binnacle does not seem to be documented anywhere, nor does it appear on any contemporary models that I am aware of.

What we have seen are vent holes in the side of the cabinet..

 

A bit of discussion here.

 

 

[Trond]

4 hours ago, Gregory said:

FWIW, The stack on that binnacle does not seem to be documented anywhere, nor does it appear on any contemporary models that I am aware of.

What we have seen are vent holes in the side of the cabinet..

 

A bit of discussion here.

 

 

I is showed on several drawing in the The Armed TRansport Bount by John McKay. I see he is an architectural draughtsman and he has several referances.

I must admit I'm not deep into the sourcees on ship, yet ( but may come over time)  So I trust this guy.

 

My kit is far off the real Bount, so I guess by following John McKyay as far as possible would be good. Can't follow everything since my kit Bounty is not in correct scale.

[Gregory]

I apologize if I came across as being critical..  You have a great build going that I am following.

 

I was just offering an observation.

[allanyed]

FWIW from the RMG    https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-8460

Who knows if this is typical or even correct.  RMG is phenomenal but not without erroneous information every now and then.

Allan

[Trond]

No apologize needed Gregory.  I'm new to building wooden ship in scale and my learing curve is preatty step, so all commetens are welcomed to help me learn more about ship building and their history.

 

Another dumb question is the binnacle used for storing maps and navigation tools?

[AJohnson]

On 7/9/2022 at 12:53 AM, Trond said:to building wooden ship in scale and my learing curve is preatty step, so all commetens are welcomed to help me learn more about ship building and their history.

 

Another dumb question is the binnacle used for storing maps and navigation tools?

The link in the post Gregory posted (#198) is a very good read, the binnacle houses the compass(s) and lamp to read by night. 

[Trond]

Thanks AJohnson.

I think I will raid my wife hobby room and see I can find som black thread to use for securing rope since I don't have a rope making machine?

 

Is there anybody that has bought a rope machine and have experience with it?

[Gregory]

This guy, BenD, bought a Syren Rope Rocket and made a business out of it..

 

Ropes of Scale  One of the MSW sponsors..

 

A lot of rope making info here:   Rope Making

[Trond]

Finaly got the binnacle in place with securing rope.

[BenD]

On 7/12/2022 at 3:15 PM, Gregory said:

This guy, BenD, bought a Syren Rope Rocket and made a business out of it..

 

Ropes of Scale  One of the MSW sponsors..

 

A lot of rope making info here:   Rope Making

I made my own ropewalk for producing rope. Well, at this point I've made at least 5 and am currently drawing the plans for #6. If anyone want's to make there own ropewalk you can find plans on this site. If you don't the Syren Rope Rocket is a decent piece of kit, and pretty affordable to be honest.

 

@Trond Your HMS bounty is looking really good!

Edited August 2, 2022 by BenD

[Gregory]

Sorry  Ben,  I thought you started with the Rope Rocket.

Word is, you make great rope..

[Trond]

Another scratch build. Had to make it twice to get it ok. Going to make more detail drawing next time and also use harder wood. The wood I'm using is to soft (it is not balsa).

[Keith Black]

 Nice!