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Roman Quadrireme Galley by Ian_Grant - 1/32 Scale - RADIO


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Ian, in answer to your question on my mycenaean blog, there is definitely good evidence from the archaeology of mast steps. The following drawing is of the Chretienne A wreck from Madrague de Giens (150 - 100 bce) which shows the mast step on a large block on the keelson . There is an aft facing curved surface and an inclined plane which suggests that the mast is removable Also see Casson "Ships and Seamanship etc" page 208. The slots besdide the mast step may be for a tabernacle.

chretienneAmaststep01.gif.93f9a3a42b66e7e12580ccbb31e38f6d.gif

Also see this article on mast step coins:

 

The International Journal of Nautical Archaeology
(2007)
36
.2: 317–324
doi: 10.1111/j.1095-9270.2006.00132.x

MAST-STEP COINS AMONG THE ROMANS
D. N. CARLSON
Mast-Step Coins among the Romans
Deborah N. Carlson
Nautical Archaeology Program, Department of Anthropology, Texas A&M University, College Station, Texas
77843–4352, USA

 

The evidence for mast crutches is more iconographic as Louie da Fly has previously shown. I know of no crutches found in ancient wrecks.

Hope this helps a bit

Dick

Current build: 

 Le Gros Ventre 1:48 POF   http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/564-le-gros-ventre-by-woodrat-scale-1-48-pof-1767-french-exploration-vessel/

 

Past builds:

Mycenaean War Galley by Woodrat - 1:48 - Shell first Plank on Frame:https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33384-mycenaean-war-galley-by-woodrat-148-shell-first-plank-on-frame

Venetian round ship 14th century by Woodrat fully framed - 1:40 scalCompleted

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/17991-venetian-round-ship-14th-century-by-woodrat-fully-framed-140-scale

Venetian Carrack or Cocha 1/64 by woodrat   https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4915-venetian-carrack-or-cocha-164-by-woodrat        completed

United States Frigate Essex 1:64 POF   http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4496-usf-essex-by-woodrat-scale-1-64-fully-framed-from-takakjian-plans/ - completed 

Yenikapi12 by Woodrat - 1/16 scale - a small Byzantine merchant vessel of the 9th century

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23815-yenikapi12-by-woodrat-116-scale-a-small-byzantine-merchant-vessel-of-the-9th-century-finished/

The Incredible Hulc by Woodrat - an experimental reconstruction of a mediaeval transport

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25641-the-elusive-hulc-by-woodrat-finished-a-speculative-reconstruction-of-a-mediaeval-merchantman-132-plank-on-frame/

 

 

 

Location: Perth, Western Australia

 

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Dick, thank you very much! I don't know how you and Steven find all these books and drawings........it will be a while before I have to implement something. Before I even try I want to get some protective coat on the lower hull and try it in a pool with oars installed; if it ain't going to work then it will have to be abandoned. 😔 I don't want to cheat by adding a little propeller. 🙄

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  • 3 weeks later...

Took a while to recover from our trip but I finally started on the galley again.

 

Added the external keel, faired into the stern post, and trimmed the stern post to suit the hull. Added the outriggers for the 2nd row of oars.

 

Plan now is to fill/sand the hull some more, then get epoxy resin on the inside and some form of protection, probably spar varnish, on the outside lower hull as a base for painting. But before adding decorative trim or building the hull above the outriggers and the decks, I want to test it on water to verify it will work, even before bothering with steering platforms and twin rudders. Thus, I need to build the second mechanism then install both. If it actually does row along then I will proceed to the finish.

 

Here are some pics of the current state. Those little brackets under the outriggers were a bit unnerving to slice off on a 3HP table saw even with a thin-kerf blade and a zero-clearance insert. I see now why wood model builders buy Byrnes saws ..... 😀

 

By the way, I got a new laptop with Windows 11 .... why do all the smiley face memes look so evil now? Or is it just a setting I need to change?

 

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Edited by Ian_Grant
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11 hours ago, rookie said:

Nicely done!

 

Be careful with that table saw!! 

Thanks! Yeah, I bandsawed the little bracket shape across the end of a 1" wide piece of cherry, then had to slice it into 3/16" thick brackets which gave me four pieces. Repeat. I at least had the sense to glue the inch wide bits onto some scraps for handles before using the saw!

 

Thinking more, I might just try it on water with one mechanism. That should be enough for a go/no-go on continuing the build.

Fingers crossed.

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Can't wait to see the planking going on this beauty; nice work Ian.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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7 hours ago, BANYAN said:

Can't wait to see the planking going on this beauty; nice work Ian.

 

Totally agree with Pat.  And by the way, Ian, you have inspired my next SIB.  I'm not quite ready to kick it off yet, but your work here gave me the idea for what I hope will be an interesting project.

Edited by Glen McGuire
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17 hours ago, BANYAN said:

Can't wait to see the planking going on this beauty; nice work Ian.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Sorry to disappoint, but she will not be planked except maybe the deck. Hull just painted and epoxy resined inside for strength and waterproofness, if that's a word. As a planked deck would be a LOT of work I'm thinking of trying a painted plank deck using various tones of dry brushing. Not sure.

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3 hours ago, 72Nova said:

I really admire your skill and perseverance on this epic build Ian, looking forward to the test launch👍

 

Michael D.

Thanks Michael, that's very flattering coming from someone whose builds I admire tremendously!

Just had our replacement pool installed today so I'll be all set for initial water tests..... 😉

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been preoccupied with building a new little deck to access our new above ground pool (some of you may recall the old one was crushed by a falling tree) and trying to tidy up landscape beside it after I ripped out the old pool with its external braces along the straight sides of the oval.

 

I applied epoxy resin to the inside of the galley using West System resin and slow hardener I had left from repairing my 1:1 boat. It took AGES to dry. Before epoxying the outside underwater hull I ran out and got some fast hardener (no, not 😉Viagra). It dried quickly. Man, is it glossy!  I'll be scuff sanding before painting.

 

Now trying to install the mechanism on the port side. I ran into an issue regarding the drawer slides: I cut the ends off to save weight as discussed previously but now they have almost zero "play". They are in pairs at the ends of the aluminum channel and I'll need to screw them into their little platforms on the hull flooring exactly the right distance apart or they'll bind. This is exactly what happened on my first attempt where I just eyeballed drilling the holes on centre. I'll need to set up a little jig on the drill press to drill consistent holes. Failing that I may have to fall back on having the aluminum channel slide back and forth through two "guides" made of laminate or zero friction tape. Yuck.

 

Some pics ...

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Edited by Ian_Grant
sp
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Problem solved. Port side mechanism mounted in the hull.

 

Checking the new oar geometry will work in the hull cavity without hitting deck beams etc when blades are in the water (pic).

Upper oars will be 1/2" longer than lower oars, will need to make 42 of them. Existing 44 oars will be the lowers.

 

Found out I can buy lead shot at a nearby shooting range. Planning to buy plastic film-roll canisters to fill with shot as opposed to pouring loose shot into the hull. Snag is I must buy 25 lbs of shot 🤨, will sell the remainder on.

 

Pic shows extra blades taped to upper oars to depict their new length.

 

Need to sand and varnish at least 22 oars; complete the mechanism install; install the 1/4 scale sweep servo; get the shot and ballast hull; try it in the pool with just lower oars on one side to see if they get traction.  If so I will spend the money and time to mechanize the starboard side and complete hull decoration and painting. Not sure if I will get the deck built this year - our summers are short and should be enjoyed.

 

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47 minutes ago, Ian_Grant said:

Planning to buy plastic film-roll canisters to fill with shot

 

I wonder if small zip-loc bags might be a better option for you Ian? Just thinking they might be easier to place and you can get them in a variety of sizes, from tiny to quite large.

 

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2 hours ago, gjdale said:

 

I wonder if small zip-loc bags might be a better option for you Ian? Just thinking they might be easier to place and you can get them in a variety of sizes, from tiny to quite large.

 

Thanks!  That's a good idea.....will look into it. Don't know how big these balls of shot are......

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One thing with the oar action is that some RC models I've seen have the oars rise right up in the air on the return-stroke, which can look unrealistic. The one below isn't too bad:

 

 

 

But compare it with the action on the Olympias, where the oars are barely out of the water on the return stroke.

 

 

Just thought I'd mention it.

 

Steven

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Thanks Steven, you mentioned this near the start of this log 😄 but it was so long ago now I guess you forgot........ 🙄

 

I saw that video before too. Interesting that the oars have that little pause; makes me think they aren't motor-driven. Wonder if he has a servo scheme too? Don't worry, my oars won't be going near as high as that. In fact, my galley will be calm water only, or the oars might be striking wavetops on the return stroke.

 

I'm sure there will be a lot of software tuning once this boat is operational.

 

Thanks,

Ian

Edited by Ian_Grant
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Just another thought on the lead shot ballast, if you pour it in loose and spread it around to where it works best you can then pour a little epoxy over it to secure and seal it.

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  Hmmmm,  I suppose it would be too much to try and have the oars-persons 'feather' the blades on the back stroke.  The full size oars are rather heavy and its enough having the crew pull together (at speed).  The video reminds me of the times I was a rower on a small Viking Knarr (5 oars per side), as the wind often did not cooperate.  While resting during one outing (true story), the steersman said, "I have good news and bad news.  The good news: a round of mead for all the crew.  The bad news:  Captain want to waterski." 

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

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11 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

  Hmmmm,  I suppose it would be too much to try and have the oars-persons 'feather' the blades on the back stroke. 

I doubt they used rowlocks in those days or those ships, more likely thole pins or similar which don't allow feathering.

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