HMS Sphinx 1775 by Glenn-UK - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[glbarlow]

It’s time to start betting the over-under on when UK Glenn finishes this model against James time, we could have a new record. 

[Jasseji]

5 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

It’s time to start betting the over-under on when UK Glenn finishes this model against James time, we could have a new record. 

That and his attempt to make a new manual in this build log - he just wants Chris to send him his Next prototype instead to James

[Glenn-UK]

6 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

It’s time to start betting the over-under on when UK Glenn finishes this model against James time, we could have a new record. 

My build will be much slower. I'm predicting completion around  July to September 2022

[Glenn-UK]

2 minutes ago, Jasseji said:

That and his attempt to make a new manual in this build log - he just wants Chris to send him his Next prototype instead to James

I would be honoured to help out but I think my building skills are not good enough.

[James H]

16 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

It’s time to start betting the over-under on when UK Glenn finishes this model against James time, we could have a new record. 

Remember folks, I have to build these quickly so you can buy them and take your time. 

 

'Taint a hobby if you hurry.

[Glenn-UK]

BUILD THOUGHTS

FIRST PLANKING

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Planks

In an attempt to get a more even planking I decided it would be a good idea to sort through the planking material and sort into groups based on the plank’s measured depth. I used my digital vernier gauge, checking at both ends of each plank and at several points along the plank. I then marked the depth on the planks, at each end.

 

Picture of the sorted planks 

 

These are the rejects as they are too thin, and will only be used only if necessary.

 

These planks are all under 1mm thick (0.8 to 0.9mm), so I plan to use these toward the keel

 

This is the thickest group of planks (1.1 to 1.15mm) and will be the first group of planks used

 

The final group is the 0.95 to 1.05mm grouping.

 

Method

I cut some cardboard strips and measured the length of each bulkhead and calculated that I would need 23 planks around the midships, reducing to 14 plank widths at the bow and 19 plank widths at the stern.

 

In the manual James’s noted the first three planks were fitted without any tapering required. I did a dry fit test and concluded it is possible to fit the first three planks without the need to taper. I was a bit concerned with the natural flow of the first plank from the midship section to the stern due to the upward curvature of the hull pattern. I think with glue and pins it should be Ok.

 

This picture shows the upward curve

 

Clamping

I also noticed there was quite a gap where the plank sits under the quarter gallery. This required a touch of glue and clamp as the bottom edge of the hull outer pattern was not in contact with the frame.

 

Edited September 9, 2021 by glennard2523

[Glenn-UK]

HULL ASSEMBLY

FIRST PLANKING – PART 1

BUILD MANUAL STEP 138

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Titebond original glue

Old paint brush

Heated planking bender

 

Gathering the materials required

The following kit parts are required for this section of the build:

F-43 (1mm x 5mm limewood strips)

Brass pins

 

Assembly Process – First Three Planks

The build manual indicated the first three planks could be fitted without any tapering so I decided to go ahead and fit the first three planks.

 

This is a picture after the first plank had been glued in place.

 

I decided, after fitting the first plank, that it would be better to bend the planks around the bow section. I soaked the planks in warm water for about 10 minutes and then applied the required bend using my heated plank bender.

 

Picture of the next two planks ready to be fitted.

 

The planks were then fitted without any problems. I am glad I spent time sorting the planks widths, as per my earlier post.

 

 

 

 

Assembly Process – Banding Process

I have read and watched videos on planking where the hull is split into bands. I have never tried this method before but thought it would be worth trying on this build. With reference to the attached pdf file.

Banding.pdf

I had already measured the length of each bulkhead prior to fitting the first three planks so I made the necessary adjustment. I calculated that I would need 20 planks at the widest section, so decided that I would have three planking bands, 2 bands would be 7 planks wide and the third band would be 6 planks wide. The spreadsheet provided me with the required plank widths at the different bulkhead positions. as can be seen in the attached pdf file I then tweaked these calculations so the banding lengths would be easier to measure.

 

I transferred the band 1 dimensions to a sheet of card and cut out the required shape for the bow and stern. I also glued 7 small lengths of planks to double check the maximum band width. I taped these patterns to the hull and marked the lower edge on the bulkheads.

 

 

 

 

The patterns were then removed and I added a banding line using some tape, using the pencil marks as a guide.

 

 

I have now started to mark up the tick strip, for each bulkhead position, using a planking fan template.

 

 

 

This concludes the progress to date. In the next stage I will transfer the tick marks to the next 7 planks so they can be added to the hull. I will also add the lateral edge bends so the planks will lay flat around the bow shaping. I may split each plank into two pieces with a midship join.

 

 

 

[Malcolm Greig]

I was hoping you would include a detailed description of how you go about planking, and you have. I've barely got away with muddling my way through planking in the past.  Very clearly explained post. This could end up as a "go to planking tutorial".  Thanks for sharing your process Glenn. 

 

regards

 

Malcolm  

[Glenn-UK]

15 minutes ago, Malcolm Greig said:

I was hoping you would include a detailed description of how you go about planking, and you have. I've barely got away with muddling my way through planking in the past.  Very clearly explained post. This could end up as a "go to planking tutorial".  Thanks for sharing your process Glenn. 

 

regards

 

Malcolm  

I also muddle through my planking but I am trying to take my time and get it looking better for this build.

[Glenn-UK]

HULL ASSEMBLY

FIRST PLANKING – PART 2

BUILD MANUAL STEP 138 - 141

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Titebond original glue

Old paint brush

Heated planking bender

 

Gathering the materials required

The following kit parts are required for this section of the build:

F-43 1mm x 5mm x 650mm strip – Limewood

Brass pins

 

Assembly Process – Band 1 Planking

The first band is 35mm (7 planks) at the widest point which covers 5 of the central bulkheads. Using the dimensions in my banding spreadsheet I marked the required plank widths at the different bow bulkheads for the first right-hand side plank and drew a straight line. I then double checked the line using my tick strip.

 

The first plank is ready to be tapered

 

I repeated the above process for the first left-hand plank, aiming to have a matching pair.

 

 

Following the method outlined in Chuck’s YouTube video’s I marked the point of the widest gap and then clamped the plank in my bending station.

 

 

I brushed some water on the plank and then applied some heat, using my plank bender. The bent plank was test fitted and looked to be a good fit. I then tapered the stern section of the plank. I used my plank bender to achieve the required sharp bend up to the stern counter. I applied some glue to the various bulkheads and along the top edge of the plank and secured it place using brass pins.

 

Bow section

 

I found it necessary to use a clamp to secure the plank for the stern counter bend.

 

I have now fitted all the planks in the first band.

 

Bow section. I have kept the bow planking even as both left and right sides are a reasonably good match

 

The discolouration is from the heated plank bender used on fairly dry planks.

 

The major mistake I've made, in my opinion, was applying a slight taper to some of the stern planks. The left and right sides are not a good match. Thankfully this will not be seen when the 2^nd planking has been added.

[Jasseji]

5 minutes ago, glennard2523 said:

HULL ASSEMBLY

FIRST PLANKING – PART 2

BUILD MANUAL STEP 138 - 141

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Titebond original glue

Old paint brush

Heated planking bender

 

Gathering the materials required

The following kit parts are required for this section of the build:

F-43 1mm x 5mm x 650mm strip – Limewood

Brass pins

 

Assembly Process – Band 1 Planking

The first band is 35mm (7 planks) at the widest point which covers 5 of the central bulkheads. Using the dimensions in my banding spreadsheet I marked the required plank widths at the different bow bulkheads for the first right-hand side plank and drew a straight line. I then double checked the line using my tick strip.

 

The first plank is ready to be tapered

 

I repeated the above process for the first left-hand plank, aiming to have a matching pair.

 

 

Following the method outlined in Chuck’s YouTube video’s I marked the point of the widest gap and then clamped the plank in my bending station.

 

 

I brushed some water on the plank and then applied some heat, using my plank bender. The bent plank was test fitted and looked to be a good fit. I then tapered the stern section of the plank. I used my plank bender to achieve the required sharp bend up to the stern counter. I applied some glue to the various bulkheads and along the top edge of the plank and secured it place using brass pins.

 

Bow section

 

I found it necessary to use a clamp to secure the plank for the stern counter bend.

 

I have now fitted all the planks in the first band.

 

Bow section. I have kept the bow planking even as both left and right sides are a reasonably good match

 

The discolouration is from the heated plank bender used on fairly dry planks.

 

The major mistake I've made, in my opinion, was applying a slight taper to some of the stern planks. The left and right sides are not a good match. Thankfully this will not be seen when the 2^nd planking has been added.

Huh, i need to pick up the Pace

 

I only fitted 2 Half-Planks today, didnt do any taper on the Stern, allowing them to fan-out beginning from the 7th plank but i think i figured out the Plank-Bender i have so the sharp curve ceizes to be a problem

[Jasseji]

Question, how long are you heating the planks with the Bender for EDGE-bending? 

[Glenn-UK]

17 minutes ago, Jasseji said:

Question, how long are you heating the planks with the Bender for EDGE-bending? 

Around 30 seconds on each side of the central clamp. I brushed water on before applying the heat. I don't think the plank bender heats the plank to the same amount as a travel iron, which Chuck uses. I used a hairdryer in a previous build which works well but suffers with thermal shutdown 

Edited September 13, 2021 by glennard2523

[Malcolm Greig]

Another excellent update. Planking looking good. 

 

regards

 

Malcolm

[Glenn-UK]

HULL ASSEMBLY

FIRST PLANKING – PART 3

BUILD MANUAL STEP 138 - 141

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Titebond original glue

Old paint brush

 

Gathering the materials required

The following kit parts are required for this section of the build:

F-43 1mm x 5mm x 650mm strip – Limewood

Brass pins

 

Assembly Process – Keel

After adding a couple more planks this morning, I reached the point where I like to start planking up from the keel. Although I have measured the width, at the widest point, to be an exact number of plank widths, experience has proven this never usually the case in practise when once they have been glued in position. If I need a slightly thinner plank I prefer to fit it a few planks up from the keel.

 

I have now fitted three full planks from the keel.

 

Bow

 

I found using the clamps, as shown, helps to keep the planks together 

 

I have not planked right to the end as this area needs to be left so the 2nd planking will line up with the rudder and keel

 

You can see what a mess I have made of the planking around the stern counter area. Once the edges have been  trimmed and then filled & sanded as necessary it will not look to bad.

Edited September 14, 2021 by glennard2523

[Jasseji]

16 minutes ago, glennard2523 said:

HULL ASSEMBLY

FIRST PLANKING – PART 3

BUILD MANUAL STEP 138 - 141

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Titebond original glue

Old paint brush

 

Gathering the materials required

The following kit parts are required for this section of the build:

F-43 1mm x 5mm x 650mm strip – Limewood

Brass pins

 

Assembly Process – Keel

After adding a couple more planks this morning, I reached the point where I like to start planking up from the keel. Although I have measured the width, at the widest point, to be an exact number of plank widths, experience has proven this never usually the case in practise when once they have been glued in position. If I need a slightly thinner plank I prefer to fit it a few planks up from the keel.

 

I have now fitted three full planks from the keel.

 

Bow

 

I found using the clamps, as shown, helps to keep the planks together 

 

I have not planked right to the end as this area needs to be left so the 2nd planking will line up with the rudder and keel

 

You can see what a mess I have made of the planking around the stern counter area. Once the edges have been  trimmed and then filled & sanded as necessary it will not look to bad.

LOL, do we have an example of "Great Minds think alike" ?

 

I started wondering about the look of the Bow from the Keel up and just did exactly the same thing (adding the "Garboard" = 3 Full width planks)

[glbarlow]

2 hours ago, Jasseji said:

did exactly the same thing

Always a good practice many of us follow to move up a couple from the bottom then meet those coming down. As my UK Glenn friend notes, it allows for any corrections on the area of the hull that won't be seen once mounted. and as he also notes It also allows the garboard to more easily set the distance between wales and keel for planking widths.

[Glenn-UK]

6 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Always a good practice many of us follow to move up a couple from the bottom then meet those coming down. 

Thanks Glenn (USA), good to know we're all singing from the same Hymn sheet.

Edited September 14, 2021 by glennard2523

[Jasseji]

It's good that both of you keep adding UK or US, otherwise one could Spot some Kind of schizophrenia

 

Anyways self should er  pat and let's continue 

[Rustyj]

Very nice work Glenn. I'll enjoy following your build.

[glbarlow]

On 9/13/2021 at 12:12 PM, Jasseji said:

heating the planks with the Bender for EDGE-bending? 

It doesn’t take long using my travel iron, 10-15 seconds is all it takes me.

 

 

[Jasseji]

51 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

It doesn’t take long using my travel iron, 10-15 seconds is all it takes me.

 

 

My point is, UK Glenn writes 30sec with the Bender Tool, BE claims 2-3 Minutes with Travel Iron, you write 10-15secs with Travel Iron, I am trying to decide how not to use 2 Tools, as taking out the Travel Iron is a complicated operation for me (have to lock myself in my Homeoffice/Workshop due to Kid + Cat ) 

 

The Electric Plank Bender seems a Tool easier to handle in such a situation, hence i ask

 

[PhillH]

18 hours ago, Jasseji said:

My point is, UK Glenn writes 30sec with the Bender Tool, BE claims 2-3 Minutes with Travel Iron, you write 10-15secs with Travel Iron, I am trying to decide how not to use 2 Tools, as taking out the Travel Iron is a complicated operation for me (have to lock myself in my Homeoffice/Workshop due to Kid + Cat ) 

 

The Electric Plank Bender seems a Tool easier to handle in such a situation, hence i ask

 

 

Jacek,

 

I found that around 30 sec with my mini iron on limewood strips worked fine after dampening with a paintbrush and water. I then left them to cool to room temperature.

 

Phill

 

Edited September 17, 2021 by PhillH

[Glenn-UK]

HULL ASSEMBLY

FIRST PLANKING – PART 4

BUILD MANUAL STEP 142 - 143

 

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Titebond original glue

Old paint brush

Clamps

 

Gathering the materials required

The following kit parts are required for this section of the build:

F-43 1mm x 5mm x 650mm strip – Limewood

Brass pins

 

Assembly Process – Keel

When looking at the photo of the garboard plank(s) in my previous post I noticed I had left the planks short at the bow end, as can be seen in the photo below

 

 

It was a relatively easy task to cut and fit a filler piece, as shown in the next photo.

 

 

After fitting the three keel planks I then proceeded to complete the planking task by planking in both directions. I made sure I left the stern planks a bit short so I could taper the ends in this deadwood error down to 0mm when I get to sanding the 1^st planking. I also found it better to fit a couple of stealers.

 

 

The first planking layer is now complete and ready to be filled where necessary (I have noted a few areas) and then it can be sanded smooth. I can forecast a large dust cloud forming in the Scarborough (UK) region over the weekend.

 

The bow filler piece can be seen but overall the bow profile looks reasonably Ok

 

The stern area will require a little bit of filler 

 

I did trim the ends at the stern and tried a test fit of the lower stern counter pattern – inner. It looks to be a good fit. I will bend the pattern before it is fitted. I might fit a couple of mini stealers to fill the two small gaps on the left side.

 

 

I also test fitted the prow pattern and I was pleased to see it was a good fit. This picture really shows the importance of adding the small bow filler piece.

 

 

Edited September 16, 2021 by glennard2523

[James H]

Make sure that stern counter upper edge is roughly along the bottom edge of the stern timber slots. 

 

You can see the amendment in the manual. If you set it too low, the rails around the stern won't match those on the galleries and the stern fascia will be too low with the top of the bulwarks towards the top of the fascia.

[Glenn-UK]

1 minute ago, James H said:

Make sure that stern counter upper edge is roughly along the bottom edge of the stern timber slots. 

Thanks @James H. I had already noted that in the build manual and it will be fitted as instructed so hopefully everything will line up.

[Glenn-UK]

Just a quick update, not in my normal build log format.

 

The 1st planking turned out better than I first thought and looks smooth after about an hours work sanding with 120-grit sandpaper. It will need a bit more sanding with a finer grit sandpaper.

 

I have not needed to use any filler so far but I will fill some of the small gaps. I have tested fitted rudder post, prow pattern and keel pattern and everything looks good. 

 

 

 

 

I have also soaked the Inner Lower Counter Pattern in hot water for 30 mins and it has now been taped to a tin can (Devon Custard) and will be left to dry for the next 12 hours.

 

Edited September 17, 2021 by glennard2523

[Malcolm Greig]

Very tidy, looking good.

 

regards

 

Malcolm

[Glenn-UK]

28 minutes ago, Malcolm Greig said:

Very tidy, looking good.

 

regards

 

Malcolm

Thanks Malcolm

[KirbysLunchBox]

10 hours?!  That is some serious patience!  She looks fantastic though!