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HMS Sphinx 1775 by Glenn Shelton (glennard2523) - Vanguard Models - 1:64


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Posted (edited)

AIM OF MY BUILD LOG

 

My aim with this build log, as with all my previous build logs, is to show how I have implemented the build instructions & plan sheets and to also share any tips, problems, etc. which may help others with their build. It will probably repeat / show several of the processes / instructions detailed in the official build manual and plan sheets. I really appreciate comments and likes on my build.

 

BUILD LOG INDEX

 

I have also set up a build log index to help you (and me!) locate the different sections of my build. Simply click on the links of the completed tasks to be taken to that post of the my build log.

 

TASK

TITLE (Click link on done tasks)

STATUS

1

MDF Build Cradle Assembly

Done

2

Stern Bulkhead Assembly

Done

3

Bow Bulkhead Assembly

Done

4

Bulkheads & Lower Deck Assembly

Done

5

Longitudinal Gun Port Assembly

Done

6

Lower Deck Coaming Assembly

Done

7

Gun Deck Support Beams

Done

8

Stern Counter Frame Assembly

Done

9

Gun Deck, Gun Ports & Filler Blocks

Done

10

Fitting Inner Bulwarks

Done

11

Painting Inner Bulwarks

Done

12

Cabin Seat Assembly

Done

13

Adding Patterns to Bow

Done

14

Building the Bulwark Jig(s)

Done

15

Fairing the Hull

Done

16

Adding the Upper Side Panels

Done

17

First Planking - Part 1

Done

18

First Planking - Part 2

Done

19

First Planking - Part 3

Done

20

First Planking - Part 4

Done

21

Sanding 1st Planking

Done

22

Fitting Outer Planking Patterns

Done

23

 2nd Planking - Stage 1

Done

24

 Fitting wales

WIP

25

 Fitting wales

WIP

26

 Fitting wales

WIP

27

 

 

28

 

 

29

 

 

30

 

 

31

 

 

32

 

 

33

 

 

34

 

 

35

 

 

36

 

 

37

 

 

36

 

 

39

 

 

40

 

 

 

OTHER HMS SPHINX BUILD LOGS 

James Hatch's Prototype Build Log - A must read build log

Blue Ensign's Build Log

Jasseji's Build Log

Mark Taylor's Build Log

myxyzptlyk Build Log

 

Edited by glennard2523
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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

KIT DELIVERED

The pre ordered HMS Sphinx kit has now arrived and I am now really looking forward to starting the build. The prototype kit built by James Hatch looks amazing and is the build standard I would like to aspire to.

 

I downloaded on-line build manual earlier this month in eager anticipation of receiving the kit and I spent many hours getting familiar with the build processes and, where necessary, adding to my tool and paint collection.

 

I plan to take my time with this build (which will be a first for me!). I have started a build log, which will show how I have implemented the information contained in the building manual (rev 1) and the 23 off plan sheets. I will also share any tips, problems, etc. which may help others with their build.

 

The kit was well packaged and protected

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There was a little bit of transit damage to the box, but the kit was so well packed and protected there were no problems with the kit once the box was opened.

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An example of the protection

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A very nice touch, a HMS Sphinx coaster

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The pear wood fitting (an optional extra)

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The manual looks very good

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The plan sheets are very well presented

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More layers of protection

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LINK TO MY BUILD LOG

 

Edited by glennard2523
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MDF BUILD CRADLE ASSEMBLY
BUILD MANUAL STEPS 1-5

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Craft knife

Flory sanding stick and 400- grit sandpaper

Titebond original glue

Old paint brush and small water pot

 

Gathering the Materials Required

The following kit parts are required for this section of the build:

31, 32, 33 (x2), 34 (x4) (all located on the 3mm MDF 2 sheet)

 

Photograph of my work area, ready to start work on HMS Sphinx

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Close up photograph of the tools and material for this task. The sheet of paper in the top right of the picture is a printout of my prebuild notes for this task.

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I made a cut on either side of the securing tabs when removing each part from the MDF sheet to minimise the excess tab material left of the cradle parts. As each part was removed a sanding stick was used to remove the remnants of the tab material.

 

This is a photograph of the cradle parts ready for assembly.

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Assembly Phase

When I started to assembly the cradle I found it necessary to remove the laser char from the tab ends of parts 33 and 34 to enable them to fit into the locating slots.

 

Photograph of the tab ends after sanding.

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After the laser char had been removed from the tab ends the cradle frame was assembled without any problems and locked in place using the 4 off frame securing pegs. I brushed some diluted glue into all the joints and put the completed cradle assembly to one side to allow the glue time to cure.

 

Photograph of the completed cradle assembly

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Posted (edited)

This is an "unofficial" build log post, so is not linked to my build log index and is not in the format I'm planning to use for each completed task post.

 

I have had a good day in the shipyard. I am ready to start the off boat fairing of bulkhead 13 assy (stern) and bulkhead 1 (bow) assy. Before I make a start I have drawn some pencil lines to get an idea of how much material needs to be removed. There is quite a lot of material to remove so I will summon up the courage overnight and make a start in the morning.

 

Close up of bulkhead 13 assy showing fairing pencil lines

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Keel with dry fitted bulkheads

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Keel with dry fitted bulkheads with tape protecting the infill

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Edited by glennard2523
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Posted (edited)

STERN BULKHEAD 13 & 13-1 ASSEMBLY

BUILD MANUAL STEPS 6-16

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Pencil

Craft knife

Clamps

Flory sanding stick

120 & 400- grit sandpaper

Titebond original glue

Old paint brush

Amati’s special cleaner sanding block, reference B7140

Ginour cordless rotary multi-tool

 

Gathering the materials required

The following kit parts are required for this section of the build:

0, 13, 13-1 13a (x2), 13b (x2), 13c (x2), 13d (x2), 13e (x2), 24 (x2)

 

I made a cut on either side of the securing tabs when removing each part from the MDF sheet to minimise the excess tab material. As each part was removed a sanding stick was used to remove the remnants of the tab material.

 

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Build Tip-1

In order to ensure the bulkheads are correctly seated I find it beneficial to mark the bottom of the slots, both the keel and on each bulkhead. When the bulkheads are correctly seated pencil marks will be aligned.

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Build Tip-2

I placed both bulkheads 13 and 13-1 in their respective slots on the keel and so I could mark the outer edge of bulkhead 13-1 on bulkhead 13. This provides a good guide to the where the glue needs to be applied when the two bulkheads are glued together later in this task.

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Adding the bulkhead patterns

Bulkhead 13-1 was then removed from the keel so the two sets of the bulkhead patterns (13a-13f) could be glued in position. Bulkhead 13-1 was then put to one side to allow time for the glue to cure.

 

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Assembly Of Bulkhead 13 and 13-1

A liberal coating of glue was brushed to the lower section of bulkhead 13 (in the marked area) then bulkhead 13-1 was slotted back to the keel. It is important to note that the bulkhead 13 & 13-1 assembly is not glued to the keel during this process as it needs to be removed for shaping once the glue has fully cured. I added some clamps and removed the assembly from the keel as the glue started to cure as an added precaution.

 

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Adding The stern planking patterns
With the 13-1 bulkhead assembly back on the keel the two stern planking patterns were glued in place and as the glue started to cure I once again removed the assembly from the keel.

 

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Shaping Of Stern Bulkhead 13 & 13-1 Assembly

Once the glue had fully cured (overnight), as per the build manual instructions, tape was added to the top section of bulkhead 13 for protection of the infill part.

 

I made some pencil marks to indicate the material to be removed.

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I started the sanding and shaping process using my Ginour cordless rotary multi-tool, as my dremel had stopped working and was beyond repair. I then used a mixture of sanding sticks, sandpaper and the sanding block to complete the process.

 

I am sure more sanding will be required once the hull is ready to be faired prior to the first planking.

 

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Edited by glennard2523
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Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, BobG said:

Great build log, Glenn! How did you determine the amount of material to be removed that you marked before sanding?

Thanks @BobG

It is a bit difficult to explain, but here goes.  If you look at the photo below. I drew a line from the top of part 24 where it aligned with the outer edge of part 13f to the bottom where it made contact with bulkhead 13-1.

 

I then marked the patterns 13a to 13f which extended past the outside edge of bulkhead 13-1. With the patterns 13a to 13f I simply drew a pencil line on the bottom edge of each pattern which was the same shape as the top edge of the pattern below it.

 

When I started shaping I removed all the pattern material which extended past the outside edge of the bulkheads. I then worked on shaping the area around part 24 and then worked upward. 

 

I took my time and kept checking the shaping at very regular intervals. Hope that helps

 

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Edited by glennard2523
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Posted (edited)

BOW BULKHEAD ASSEMBLY

BUILD MANUAL STEPS 18-25

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Craft knife

Flory sanding stick

120 and 400- grit sandpaper

Titebond original glue

Old paint brush

Amati’s special cleaner sanding block, reference B7140

Ginour cordless rotary multi-tool

Clamps

 

Gathering the materials required

The following kit parts are required for this section of the build:

0, 1, 1a (x2), 1b (x2), 1c (x2), 18 (x2)

 

I made a cut on either side of the securing tabs when removing each part from the MDF sheet to minimise the excess tab material. As each part was removed a sanding stick was used to remove the remanets of the tab material. It was necessary to remove the laser char for the edges as this assembly will be shaped later in this build section.

 

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Assembly Of First Bulkhead Pattern Pair

Bulkhead 1 was slotted to the keel but not glued in place. A thin coating of glue was applied to the contact edges of the 2 x 1a bow bulkhead patterns and they added to bulkhead 1. Clamps were used to ensure they were held in the correct position as the glue cured ensuring bulkhead 1 is held at 90 degrees to the keel. Great care was taken to ensure no glue spilled in the bulkhead / keel joints.

 

 

Assembly Of Remaining Bulkhead Pattern Pairs

The remaining bow bulkhead patterns were then glued in place on bulkhead 1 (2 x 1b, 2 x 1c and 2 x 18) once again I made sure that no glue spilled in the bulkhead / keel joints. As an added precaution I removed this bulkhead assembly from the keel as the cure started to cure.

 

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Shaping Of Bow Bulkhead 1 Assembly

Once the glue had fully cured I started the shaping process using the rotary tool. I then used a mixture of sanding sticks, sandpaper and the sanding block to complete the task. The bulkhead may require more sanding during the hull fairing process later in the build.

 

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Edited by glennard2523
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BULKHEADS AND LOWER DECK ASSEMBLY

BUILD MANUAL STEPS 27-40

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Craft knife

Flory sanding stick

Titebond original glue

Old paint brush

Clamps

 

Gathering the materials required

The first task was to identify and remove the bulkheads (1-1, 2, 2-2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12) from the MDF sheets and then using a standing stick the excess tab material was removed from each part. It was not necessary to remove the laser char for the edges at this stage.

 

Assembly Process – Bulkheads 1-1 to 11

The bulkheads were then slotted in turn to the keel. They are not glued during this phase of the build process. I have shown all the bulkheads in the picture below.

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Assembly Process – Lower Deck & Orlop Deck

Next the Orlop Deck Section (39) was removed from the sheet and added to the keel after the excess tab material was sanded smooth. It is not glued in place for the time being.

 

The Lower Deck section (40) was removed from the sheet and added to the keel after the excess tab material was sanded smooth. It is not glued in place for the time being.

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Assembly Process – Adding the glue to Bulkheads 1-1 to 11 and decks

The dry fitted keel assembly was then positioned upside down, using a couple of tin cans to keep the bulkhead ears safe. Using a paint brush a diluted pva solution was applied to the various joints between the deck, bulkheads. I used some clamps to ensure the Orlop deck was held in the correct position. I also used some clamps at each end of the lower deck to ensure it made a firm contact with the bulkheads. I waited for 4 hours before moving on to the next task, which was plenty of time for the glue to start to cure.

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Assembly Process – Bulkheads 1, 12 & 13/13-1

The keel was turned the right way up (after 4 hours) so the three remaining bulkhead assemblies (1, 12 & 13) could be fitted and glued in place, once again brushing a diluted pva solution in the various joints.

 

The completed assembly will now be left overnight to allow time for all the glue to fully cure.

 

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Posted (edited)

LONGITUDINAL GUN PORTS FRAMES
GUN DECK SUPPORT BEAMS

STERN COUNTER FRAME ASSEMBLY

BUILD MANUAL STEPS 41 – 71 WITH EXCEPTION OF STEPS 48-53

 

LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX

 

Tools Used

Craft knife

Flory sanding stick

Titebond original glue

Old paint brush

Clamps

 

Gathering the materials required

The following kit parts are required for this section of the build:

1d, (x2), 2a (x2), 3a, 4a, 5a, 6a (x2), 7a (x2), 8a (x2), 9a (x2), 10a, 14 (x2), 15(x2), 25 (x2), 26 (x2), 27 (X2), 28 (x2), 35 (x2), 36 (x2), 41, 47, 48

 

I took care with removing these items, making top and bottom cuts on the securing tabs with my craft knife and removing any excess tab material using a sanding stick as each part was removed.

 

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I decided it would be beneficial to dry fit the parts except for the stern frame assembly (due to bulkhead 13’s infill piece). I found it necessary to very lightly sand the posts of gun deck frame 10a and 9a to ensure they could be fully seated.

 

 

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PLEASE NOTE: The steps 48 -53 which cover the assembly and fitting of the 4 off lower deck coamings will be covered in a separate post. On reflection it may have been better to fit them before the gun deck support fames were added.

 

Assembly Process – Longitudinal gun port frames

I started with the bottom frames and took my time to ensure they were fully engaged in the slots on the bulkheads. Once I was happy the frames were fully inserted at each bulkhead position a diluted pva solution was brushed into all the joints. I then repeated this process for the top frames. I did end up using a couple of clamps to ensure the strips remained fully seated as the glue cured.

 

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I also brushed some glue on to the surface of the 2 two gun deck support patterns and pushed them on to the face of bulkhead 1.

 

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Assembly Process – Gun Deck support beams

Next the various gun deck support beams were added. With the support beams correctly positioned the inner and outer longitudinal deck beams were added. I started with the two inner beams. I brushed some glue into the slots and took my time to ensure they pushed down fully into all bulkhead beam slots. The process was then repeated for the two outer beams. I did add a couple of weights to ensure the beams remained fully seated as the glue cured.

 

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Assembly Process – Stern Counter Frame and gun deck assembly

Removing the infill part of bulkhead 13 was relatively straightforward. I carefully cut through the tabs (on both sides) and I was then able to gently remove the infill, using my round nose pliers with a light bit a very gentle twisting back and forth.

 

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The various stern counter frames were then slotted into place, starting with the two inners, then the two middle and then finally the two outer stern counter fames. There were all a very tight fit and each piece required a gentle sanding before they could be inserted without undo force.

 

With all 6 frames in place the stern frame spacer beam was positioned in the slots that run along the top of all of the stern counter frames. With the space beam fully seated in all 6 slots diluted pva glue was brushed into all the joints.

 

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The two filler patterns were then glued to the outside edge of the outer stern counter frames and once I was happy with the position they were clamped.

 

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My HMS Sphinx is starting to take shape.

 

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Edited by glennard2523
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