St Roch by Lecrenb - RCMP Schooner in 1:48 scale showing schooner rig ca. 1930/35

[Lecrenb]

Hi all, first post here so please be gentle. I am building RCMP St. Roch as she spent most of her life in the Arctic, wearing her mainmast and schooner rig and with the original smaller deck house. I am using copies of original plans from the Vancouver Maritime Museum where the ship is currently the main exhibit. I am also old school, so dividers and French curves are substituting for CAD!

The only kit of St. Roch is a 1:72 rendition by Billing Boats which I see several members here have built or are in the process of building. I look forward to checking these builds out! I will build my model plank on bulkhead in 1:48 scale, with the cargo hatch open to show the transverse beams in the hold that were designed to prevent the hull from being crushed in the ice. I will also include the rudder well which allowed the rudder to be lifted clear of ice. I will decide how to display the sails later in the build.

 

So, to start:

I drew patterns onto tracing paper to be transferred to plywood for cutting out. My copy of the 1927 lines drawing is 9 scale inches (3/16”) short, so I did not directly trace parts from it. I also referenced a copy of the 1944 section and general arrangement plans, but with caution since it shows her later configuration. I drew a base line onto the tracing paper, then vertical lines to mark the frame locations shown on the drawing, and the stern. Next I added seven horizontal waterlines, also from the lines drawing. Their vertical distance from the base line is not important.

 

The spacing of frames and waterlines came from actual measurements noted on the lines drawing, which when transferred to my tracing paper made up for my undersized copy. When checked, I verified that my hull will indeed be the correct scale size after planking. I now have a template onto which I can draw my model’s spine.

 

I used a 1:48 scale rule, dividers, and French curves to transfer scaled measurements and known dimensions from the drawings to complete this pattern, which is the aft half of the vessel, drawn from frame 5 aft to the stern.

 

I will need extra frames at the aft end of the hold and the fore and aft ends of the open rudder well, and these locations are shown on the 1944 drawing, taking note that a jog was made in the hold to enclose St. Roch's larger engine. I transferred these locations to my spine drawing then drew in the propeller and rudder posts and the rudder well, and indicated the rudder axis and propeller shaft centerline. The large jog near frame 6 is the aft end and floor of the hold.

 

Next I will finish my paper templates and cut wood!

Thanks for looking in and comments and critiques are welcome!

 

[druxey]

Welcome aboard! I recall seeing St Roch in Vancouver some years ago, She makes an interesting subject. Looking forward to seeing your progress. And there is nothing like good ol' fashioned manual drafting! (I'm also doing some this afternoon.) 

[Lecrenb]

Thanks Druxey!

I have now completed my paper templates... here's how:

 

First I extended the frame locations up onto a clear area of tracing paper and drew a second set of waterlines, creating a new template aligned with the spine pattern. This can be seen in the photo on the previous post. For the aft half of the ship I will need additional frames at the aft end of the hold and fore and aft ends of the rudder well. I used my spine pattern to add these extra locations onto my new template as 5A, 9A, and 10A. The extra frame locations also need to be drawn onto the original 1927 lines drawing so their shapes can be lofted. Even though my drawing is a copy of the original I used pencil to preserve it.

 

I used my dividers to loft the breadth of each frame at each waterline from the lines drawing onto the template, as well as the distances to keel and deck. Then I completed each pattern using French curves, including the deck camber which is given on the drawing.

 

The first photo below shows the completed templates for the forward half of the ship. Extra frames 2A and 2B at the fo’c’s’le break and forward end of the hold are shown, as is the foremast. The frames in way of the hold are hollowed out to match the thicknesses of the hull and deck, and frame #4 is cut back where the hatch will be framed in.

 

The frame templates nest into each other because they are aligned with the spine. This alignment lets me verify the sheer lines on my template and I think this outweighs the clutter. I did erase most of the waterlines for clarity.

 

The next picture shows the fore and aft templates together, and the mainmast has been added. Note that the fore and aft frame waterlines were drawn different distances above the spine pattern, something I would correct if I use this method again. Keen eyes will note an extra line on frame #10, this frame will be cut back to create the rudder well.

 

The mainmast was removed in 1944 when St. Roch’s rig was changed to a ketch, so the museum plans I have do not show it. James Delgado’s book includes a copy of the 1928 hull profile drawing that shows the mainmast. This is too small for accurate scaling, but the hull frames are shown, and their dimensions and spacing are known measurements. I counted the number of frames and spaces between the masts and transferred that dimension onto my spine template. The result matches my historic photos, and I am confident I am within 3 scale inches (1/16”) of where the mast should be.

 

Now I am ready to transfer my patterns onto plywood and cut them out!

Edited November 9, 2021 by Lecrenb

[Lecrenb]

 

here in Alberta's capital region the wind is howling, although there is no snow on the ground yet, so it is a good day to finish the template work and get out the scroll saw!

The paper templates are complete, and I selected 1/8” birch plywood for St. Roch’s hull frame. The frames are drawn half-breadth, so I will need two of each template. I could have copied each template onto separate pieces of paper, stuck them to the wood, then sawn them out; or I could have drawn each frame pair as one and cut a slot for the keel, but I decided to trace each template directly onto the plywood.

The first picture shows my setup with the templates taped to the wood with carbon paper underneath. I traced the patterns with a hard (4H) pencil using my French curves as a guide.

The next picture shows one of the plywood sheets ready for parts cutting, and the final one is all the frame parts after the plywood met the scroll saw.

Keen eyes will see where I muffed a couple of frames and had to re-draw them. The vessel is a bit longer than the plywood, however the spine stops on the plywood at Frame 9A where the rudder well starts, so only the keel continues off the end. I will make the stern post and the keel aft of the propeller post as separate parts. There are steel reinforcing straps at these locations, so the seams will be hidden. The stern spine piece is completed as a small part aft of Frame 10A. The rudder well sides, whose shapes I will derive during assembly, will hold the pieces together.

[druxey]

Off to a good start there, Lecrenb!

[Wreck1919]

Thanks for step-by-step Lecrenb. Wondering why you make the frames in halves, but will keep watching/reading. Look forward to more. 👍🏻
 

[Lecrenb]

Thanks Druxey, I appreciate the feedback! Posts will slow down for a few days while I (hopefully) get some assembly done...

 

Wreck1919, Lofting the frame shapes created half frame patterns. Yes, I could have 'flipped' the patterns to create a full frame, but then I would have to slot both the spine and the frames. Rather than taking on the extra saw work and risk the inevitable loose fits I decided that it would be easier, for me anyway, to build up the hull using half frames.  

At the end of the day it was a personal decision, and I too will be interested in seeing how it works out! Thanks for your interest!

[FlyingFish]

Looks a very interesting build - your drawings by hand are admirable!

[Lecrenb]

My sincere apologies to those who had been following this thread. It has been a year and a half since my last entry to St. Roch's build log. Much of that time was spent away from the model, life simply getting in the way of modelling.

I recently got back to it, and have assembled the hull frame and started planking the hull.

The posts below pick up where I left off...

[Lecrenb]

 

St. Roch's frame assembly:

I started by sanding each bulkhead pair together on my disk sander, to ensure each bulkhead is given a symmetrical profile. 

I laid the spine flat on my work table and used yellow carpenter’s glue to set each starboard bulkhead vertically at their location as marked on the spine, double checking spacing against the ship's line drawing as I went.

The photos show a bulkhead pair (#2) being sanded,

The starboard bulkhead installation underway, with the tools U used to ensure correct spacing and square,

And the starboard bulkheads complete, along with the stern piece that will be installed aft of the rudder well.

The third photo also shows the port side bulkheads stacked up ready to be installed.

[Lecrenb]

For assembling the port side I could have set the frame onto a building board, but I chose instead to clamp the frame onto the workbench with the starboard sides down. I found this gave me full access to the spine to align, clamp, and square each bulkhead without having to contend with gravity!

The first photo shows the port bulkhead #1 being set into place. The brass vise is helping to keep the frame straight up on the bench.

The next photo shows the model frame nearly complete.

 

Once the bulkheads were installed and my yellow carpenter's glue had time to cure, I set the model's frame onto the building board, as shown in the fourth photo.

 

I derived the shape of the rudder well sides, basically a portion of a buttock line offset from the ship's centerline. The fifth photo shows them assembled to the stern section. Again, I used pine splines to strengthen the joints while the square and clamps held everything in position until the glue had cured. The sixth photo shows the stern attached to the ship's frame, with frame #10 installed in way of the hold.

 

I am going to open the hatch to show the strong beams that were installed into the hold to prevent the hull being crushed in the ice. I made bulkhead doublers at the fore and aft ends of the hold, stations 2A and 5A, onto which the interior hold planking will be glued. The doublers can be seen on the last photo, and they will also serve to support the ends of the deck planking when that goes on. 

 

The last photo also shows the start of the hold floor planking, and the deck framing at the hold.

 

All my hull planks are appropriate sizes of Basswood strips from N.E. Scale Lumber. They come in 24” lengths, which equates to a scale length of 96 feet. Plank length is not given in my references, but some joints can be seen in my St. Roch photographs, and in 1928 lengths over 20 or 30 feet were not uncommon. I used my hobby knife with a chisel blade to score planks, representing staggered end joints across the hold floor. At this point I also used a basswood strip to check the fair run of the hull. There were one or two discrepancies in the frames which were corrected by either sanding or adding shims as required. This was to be expected when hand drawing frame parts from hand drawn original plans. I will continue to repeat this check as the remaining framing pieces and the planking are installed.

[mtaylor]

3 hours ago, Lecrenb said:

My sincere apologies to those who had been following this thread. It has been a year and a half since my last entry to St. Roch's build log. Much of that time was spent away from the model, life simply getting in the way of modelling.

I recently got back to it, and have assembled the hull frame and started planking the hull.

The posts below pick up where I left off...

No worries.  Real life has to always come first.  The work shown on your updates looks great.  

[Lecrenb]

 

Now that the hull frame is assembled, it is time to add some framing details and the interior of the hold. I intend to open the hatch to show the strong beams that were designed into the ship to prevent her being crushed in the Arctic ice. First I installed the main deck framing, which outlined the hatch opening, and the planking along the floor of the hold. Holes were chiseled into the planking to take the ends of the posts that support the beams. Next I followed the ship's original plans to install the beams, clamps, and knees... followed by the posts.

 

 

 

Edited May 10, 2023 by Lecrenb

[Lecrenb]

Once the beams were installed into the hold, I completed the hold interior planking on each end and as far up the sides as the clamps. There was no point in installing more planking since it will not be seen through the hatch.

Before starting the hull planking I needed to install the main deck waterways, since the Wale follows the sheer line of the ship and butts up to the waterway. I also used my plans to trace the curve of the foredeck; then I cut a thin sheet of basswood that will serve to support the foredeck planks and waterway. The foredeck waterways were steamed, then formed around a pine block so they would hold their curved shape once dried. While they were drying I made the hatch coaming, following the finger joints on the original plans as closely as possible. 

Edited May 10, 2023 by Lecrenb

[Lecrenb]

I began planking the hull by wrapping the keel, stem, and rudder post with 1/16" thick Basswood strips. This served several purposes; it hid the plywood keel edges, it built up the keel to the correct final scale size of 11.5" wide, and by following the line of the garboard planks, the Basswood served as my rabbet and I did not have to carve into the keel.

The first pictures show the stern after this was done and with the garboard planks and deadwood installed. The deadwood looks irregular, but very closely matches actual photos of the deadwood on St. Roch.

The section from the original 1928 plan shows the Wale as well as the stanchions and planking at the hull midships.

I started by planking the Wale, which consists of two planks one above the other. The rub rail will fasten later on to the upper plank... 

 

 

There will be a fair bit of sanding required, which will smooth out any irregularities. When I tried to wrap the wales around the stern, I only succeeded in making a real mess due to the compound curves required, and I broke several planks, no matter how much steam I applied...

Studying the ship's plans of the stern section, and my St. Roch photos, led me to conclude that her stern was made from arcs cut from solid Douglas Fir and then carved to the rounded shape of the stern. These lifts were bolted to the stern frame and resulted in a very solid and rigid assembly. 

If it was good enough for the shipwrights in 1928, it should be good enough for me...

So I made lifts of 1/8" basswood, starting from deck level where I could trace the first lift from the ship's plans.

Subsequent lifts were traced from the one previously installed. I ended up with a very strong and correctly shaped stern, needing only some final sanding as the planking goes on. The extruded lift will carry the rub rail around the stern.

 

The picture above shows the 12 stern lifts after first sanding, and with the first four hull plank strakes installed below the Wale. The Wale and the strakes glue to bulkhead #10 and the stern lifts, which meet that bulkhead.

Edited May 10, 2023 by Lecrenb

[KeithAug]

Planking the stern would have been difficult. I think your alternative plan is the right way to go

[FriedClams]

Although I had heard of the RCMP schooner St. Roch, I knew very little about her.  After searching her out on the web, I find she has a very interesting history indeed and is a good choice for a scale model.  You're doing some very nice work on her so far and I look forward to future updates. 

 

Gary  

[Lecrenb]

On 5/13/2023 at 2:41 PM, KeithAug said:

Planking the stern would have been difficult. I think your alternative plan is the right way to go

I agree Keith, I had no success whatsoever in twisting planks into a compound curve!

[Lecrenb]

On 5/14/2023 at 7:36 AM, FriedClams said:

Although I had heard of the RCMP schooner St. Roch, I knew very little about her.  After searching her out on the web, I find she has a very interesting history indeed and is a good choice for a scale model.  You're doing some very nice work on her so far and I look forward to future updates. 

 

Gary  

Thanks very much Gary. I had written an article about the ship's history for Ships in Scale, published in their Vol. XXV, Nr. 2 (March/April 2014). If you get out to Vancouver, the ship is preserved in their maritime Museum.

Regards,

Bruce

 

[Mirabell61]

very nice model Lecrenb, very nice progress

 

Nils

[Lecrenb]

On 5/25/2023 at 7:20 AM, Mirabell61 said:

very nice model Lecrenb, very nice progress

 

Nils

Thanks very much Nils!

Regards,

Bruce

 

[Lecrenb]

Some progress on planking the hull... I worked one or two strakes at a time, each side, letting my Titebond III glue dry overnight before continuing...

Is it perfect? No... 

But the actual ship has a rough looking outer hull too... her hull was given an outer sheath of Australian Gum (Ironbark) for ice protection. This was left uncaulked so the seawater would reach the inner Douglas Fir hull; this would help to prevent dry rot.

I also got the rudder post and prop shaft sleeve installed, and the rudder well planked inside.

Next up will be some sanding and probably a bit of filler to even out the area at the stern, which I had trouble with... and one or two divots along the hull... Must replace divots!

Edited May 26, 2023 by Lecrenb

[Lecrenb]

Hi there everyone, wherever you are I hope you all had a great Canada Day and 4th of July! 

I have now got the lower hull planking completed

I used my miniature hobby vise and reversed clothespins to push the final strakes up against the completed part of the hull.

Here is the lower hull completed, and with wood filler applied to even out any divots and other rough patches, after sanding.

Most of the wood filler is in the bow area, and that will be covered by a steel shoe that was fitted to help St. Roch push through the Arctic ice. The hull will also be painted which will cover the remaining filler.

 

Edited July 10, 2023 by Lecrenb

[Lecrenb]

Before I continue the upper hull and deck planking I must make the masts and accurately locate the holes where they will pass through the deck. Once that is out of the way I will start planking the deck, and finish the upper hull strakes and bulwarks...

[JacquesCousteau]

Looks great! I saw the St. Roch years ago in Vancouver, so I'm looking forward to following the build.

[AlainB]

What work !  Bravo.

[Gabek]

Beautiful work, Bruce!  Simply masterful.

Clear skies and sharp tools,

Gabe
 

[Lecrenb]

On 7/9/2023 at 9:21 PM, JacquesCousteau said:

Looks great! I saw the St. Roch years ago in Vancouver, so I'm looking forward to following the build.

Thanks JacquesCousteau! It is great having the actual ship as a reference, but it can be frustrating because I am modelling her as she was during most of her working life, not as she is displayed today. The staff at the Vancouver Maritim Museum have been wonderful in locating original plan sheets and contemporary photos!

Regards, Bruce

[Lecrenb]

On 7/9/2023 at 9:34 PM, Gabek said:

Beautiful work, Bruce!  Simply masterful.

Clear skies and sharp tools,

Gabe
 

Thanks Gabe! It is great having the actual ship as a reference, but it can be frustrating because I am modelling her as she was during most of her working life, not as she is displayed today. The staff at the Vancouver Maritim Museum have been wonderful in locating original plan sheets and contemporary photos!

Regards, Bruce

[Lecrenb]

On 7/9/2023 at 9:22 PM, AlainB said:

What work !  Bravo.

Merci Alain! C'est bien d'avoir le bateau reel comme reference! Frustrant aussi car mon modele ne sera pas tel qu'il est presente aujord'hui! 

Regards, Bruce