Lady Nelson by Dave_E - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - 1:64

[Dave_E]

Planks that came with the kit are .13… got to go with that, I too have no way to cut them down without wasting many of them. 😑

[Keith Black]

.13 sounds lovely! 

[Dave_E]

Deck planking is going very well. I decided to go with a king plank instead of one plank on either side of the false deck centerline as the plans call out. I also decided to try scale planking. I settled on 20’ scale planks. I’m very sure I didn’t get the beams to scale for the ship, but what I ended up with doesn’t look to bad.

 

 

I fired the worker that left the deck planks in this pile. 😂

 

 

Almost done.

 

 

Progress slowed down today, the Admiral had a bad cold last week and I have it now. Hopefully I’ll finish in a day or two.

 

[KirbysLunchBox]

Looking good! Hope you both feel better soon!

[Keith Black]

Dave, very nice. The stagger looks spot on. I pray you and your wife get well quickly. 

[Dave_E]

Thanks Fellas, doing better this morning. 👍

[Dave_E]

First deck planking went pretty good I think. I trimmed the planks one at a time and fit one row at a time, then removed that row and glued each piece in one at a time. Thus I had no glue mess to scrape. I did scrape a tad to even out a couple high spots. Now on to the rudder before I do the capping rails.

 

[Gregory]

Very nice butt pattern..

 

[Dave_E]

I think I just learned something else about kits... they don't come with everything. I need 1mm rod and eyelets for 1mm rod to install the rudder. What's your favorite goto store for this kind of stuff? 🙂

[VTHokiEE]

Can you use the pintels and gudgeons kit from Syren for fixing the rudder?

[Gregory]

That would get my vote but I can't seem to find them at the Syren store..

[LyleK1]

If you have a Hobby Town close by, it might have what you need.

Otherwise, I use Micro Mark for a lot of supplies. The problem with them is that it may take a week to arrive.

Another option is Amazon... quicker delivery.

[VTHokiEE]

10 minutes ago, Gregory said:

but I can't seem to find them at the Syren store..

I think this link works: https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/laser-cut-ship-model-fittings.php#!/Pintles-&-Gudgeons-Laser-Cut-Mini-Kit-1-16-wide-straps/p/65643912/category=5764789

[Dave_E]

18 minutes ago, VTHokiEE said:

I think this link works: https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/laser-cut-ship-model-fittings.php#!/Pintles-&-Gudgeons-Laser-Cut-Mini-Kit-1-16-wide-straps/p/65643912/category=5764789

Recon this set works for a 1:64 scale? It doesn’t say.

[KirbysLunchBox]

2 hours ago, Dave_E said:

First deck planking went pretty good I think. I trimmed the planks one at a time and fit one row at a time, then removed that row and glued each piece in one at a time. Thus I had no glue mess to scrape. I did scrape a tad to even out a couple high spots. Now on to the rudder before I do the capping rails.

 

Very clean! 

[VTHokiEE]

12 minutes ago, Dave_E said:

Recon this set works for a 1:64 scale? It doesn’t say.

It has components that you sand down to fit from what I’ve seen (I own a set but I haven’t used it yet). I do know that Blue Ensign has used them on many of his 1:64 builds (including his Alert which is a similar style ship). I would also assume it can be used at 1:48 since that is primarily what Chuck’s kits are.

[KirbysLunchBox]

13 hours ago, Dave_E said:

I think I just learned something else about kits... they don't come with everything. I need 1mm rod and eyelets for 1mm rod to install the rudder. What's your favorite goto store for this kind of stuff? 🙂

Wasn’t there a PE set in the kit for that?

Mine has brass wire and PE brass for the rudder hinges. 
 

[Dave_E]

Hi Kirby,
 

Had no brass rod in the box. I do have the hinges as you have on the etched sheet of parts, but they are decorative only. Instructions tell you to use an eye on the ship side… definitely not in the kit. I ordered the kit from Syren. I’ve looked at lots of build logs and some actually have a screw eye and they don’t look good at all in my opinion. Got the brass rod at the local Hobby Lobby (my favorite go to store for tools, glue, etc). 👍

[cdanly]

Looking good Dave!

 

For supplies I frequent local hobby shops as mentioned above. Online checkout https://www.harbormodels.com/, https://www.agesofsail.com/, and https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/index.html (Cornwall is in England but delivery is fast and inexpensive). I have used all of these in addition to Amazon. K&S has a full line of brass rod, tube, sheet you can buy direct from them I think.

[Dave_E]

OK Fellas (and any Ladies visiting),

 

I got the rudder hinge kit from the Syren store. These little rudder parts had to be the smallest parts I’ve worked with in recent memory. The saving grace perhaps is all the hinges will be painted. However it was a good first experience. Next step, painting. 😎

 

Edited March 10, 2022 by Dave_E

[Dave_E]

Painting under way and experiencing the learning curve for sure. I used Tamiya 6mm tape and was very happy with the masking results. However I do have a couple spots to touch up and am scratching my head wondering how I’m going to touch up such slight imperfections. I did just purchase a set of tiny rubber tipped “brushes”, might give them a try for the touch up. In the foreground you can see the house with implements for hinges and handles. The kit shows 1mm thick brass wire for these things. I got out my new best friend, the “scale converter” 😁, and sized up a large grab handle and large door handle type lever. Then I used the left over wire from the Syren rudder kit I just got and think that will be a lot more to scale than big honking 1mm wire. I’m not through my first build and have paid so much attention to the “scale” expertise here on the forum, that I’m easily recognizing things that aren’t even close in the kit. 
 

[Dave_E]

Hi Everyone,

 

This afternoon I thought I'd look into all the eyelets and cleats and thought this would be a good time to get all those in all around the deck and bulwarks. The Amati kit has a bag full of shiny (brass?) eyelets. Birchwood Casey Brass Black has NO effect on them. I see most every model ship on the planet has all eyelets, rings and cleats that are black. 

 

Those of of you with Amati kit experience, how did you get the eyelets black? 

 

I also started studying the plans for the rigging a bit. Yikes... a whole new world coming my way. I'll have the grates done in short order and it will be about time to start a new side of the build. Anyone have any super-newb advice for learning the rigging? Easy practices you may have learned with?

 

I know, I have 2 subjects going here. 😳

[Keith Black]

 Dave, maybe the eye pins are coated? Try soaking then in Acetone for a bit and then try the Casey. If that does't work, you'll have to paint them which is pretty much what I do as the final step.

 

 Rigging? Start right this minute reading every book and build log regarding rigging you can get your eyes on. I'm old and thick headed but, it took me about nine months before the lights started to come on. I recommend Petersson's book 'Rigging of Period Ship Models'. At least you have a rigging plan!

 

 The hull is really looking spiffy. 

 

 

[LyleK1]

Jax Pewter Blackening may work better on the eyelets too.

I have both and find Jax to be a better option.

In addition to the book Keith mentioned, I also have James Lees version.

Both are a “must-have” in my opinion.

[Keith Black]

 Lyle, I tried Jax without success but then I don't have great success with Casey. My best success is just to paint them. 

[Keith Black]

 Dave, I didn't have a rigging plan for the Tennessee so I had to get a much broader rigging education than you'll find necessary. Since you have a rigging plan your rigging education will be mainly 'how to' strop blocks, being able to determine where different line thicknesses belong, different line colors and where they're used, and teaching your fingers how to work with small bits that want to escape or do everything but what you want them to do. You'll have to decide which block stropping method works best for you, either line or wire. Tools needed are good tweezers, needle threaders. and smooth faced pliers.

 

 Rigging is the dividing line, this is where models either get completed or languish in some closet unfinished. if you overcome the fear of the unknown and are hardheaded enough, you'll make out fine. Don't hesitate to ask questions. 

[Dave_E]

Hey Keith,

 

You bet I will ask questions. Between the 3 books I have and the plans with the kit, I’m pretty sure I know what will go where. Aside from bigger sailing ships, I’m a lifetime sailor and know the basics of what’s what. It’s learning the knots and the how this block gets attached to that thing-um-abob, etc.. 😆 I concur… rigging might be what separates the…. Ship modelers. 😊

[David Lester]

Your LN is looking pretty good!

 

Here are a couple of things about rigging that help me - In my experience it isn't very hard to do, but I always find it can be confusing. Even with several builds under my belt, I still find it's imperative that I write out my own rigging instructions every time. As everyone does, I break it down into individual steps, but I actually write it out for each build - ie. fore shrouds, main shrouds, stays, back stays, lifts etc. etc. I include lots of details, what size block, what size and colour of line etc. etc.I write two separate sets of instructions - one for everything that can be added to the mast and yards before they are installed and a second set for everything that can only be added after the masts and yards are in place. It helps to add as much as is possible before the masts and yards are installed on the model. Some elements are so self-evident that it might seem crazy to be writing it out, but I find it really helps; I just work through my list and it helps keep me sane.

 

The running rigging can be finicky, but it's not particularly difficult and the shrouds usually don't cause any trouble, but I always find the stays to be the hardest. It seems that as you pull one taut, another one goes slack, or you pull the top end of the mast too far out of whack. Once the bowsprit is rigged and the shrouds are in place, it's time to do the says and after much trial and error, I've found what works for me is to attach the uppermost stays on all masts first. Then they can be adjusted so that they have the right amount of tension and the tops of the masts are in line and not pulled forward or aft. It may seem more intuitive to start with the lower stays and work up, but I find working from the top down works better for me. After the uppermost stays are in place, then I fill in the others and make them just taut enough, without too much tension. Only after all the stays are in place and adjusted, do I add a drop of glue to all the seizings.

 

Anyway, there are a couple of thoughts for your consideration.

David 

[Dave_E]

I thought this turned out OK. As I mentioned before, I messed something up way back during framing and the asymmetry was never per drawing. I had to drop the decorative swirly at the top and center the nameplate to make it look acceptable.

 

[Dave_E]

Thanks David,

 

Excellent advice and technique with the thought and write up for an individual rig. I’m going to do that! 👍