Masking tape lifting

[Jeff5115]

I have tried using "frog tape" to mask off my models for painting. Each time I have experienced lifting. Can someone suggest a better tape to use on wood ship models? 

[Dziadeczek]

Tamiya masking tape

[Dr PR]

There are some tricks to masking with tape.

 

Paint adheres best to somewhat rough surfaces. Sanding with medium grit sandpaper (150-200) will usually produce a lightly scratched surface that paint will adhere to. Be sure to clean the dust and grit from the surface before painting.

 

Primers are formulated for good adhesion, and the matching paint adheres to the primer. Some paints are "self priming" meaning that you can apply several thin coats of the same paint. "Thin" is the key word here.

 

I have found it is best to remove the tape as soon as the paint becomes tacky, and before it can dry and harden. If it forms a tough dry film up and over the edge of the tape it will tend to lift when the tape is removed.

 

If you are worried about paint bleeding under the tape there is a simple trick. For example, suppose you have painted the bottom of a hull red and then want to paint the top black. First, paint the bottom of the hull with red paint to above the line where you want to mask it off. After the paint is thoroughly dry (do not rush this!) apply the tape and then apply a light coat of red paint along the edge of the tape, so if there is any bleeding it will be red. After the red paint drys apply the black paint up to and over the edge of the tape. But use the paint sparingly to avoid a heavy build up at the edge of the tape.

 

A slight raised bead of paint is common along the edge of the tape, especially if you apply a heavy coat of paint. After the paint hardens and the tape is removed it is pretty easy to eliminate the edge with very careful and gentle scraping.

Edited January 30, 2022 by Dr PR

[Thanasis]

All the above that Phil said and just another tip that should  also be considered. The storage and the treatment of the tape, every time after the use of it. 
If you thowing it away (as I used to do), or keep the tape on the bench being hit by other stuf while you are working, the edges of it get curves.Then the dust gets in and  you might have weak glued points on the surface of the hull. 
I use an ordinary masking tape on my models, but to eliminate any misfunction or misstreaement, I create a new strip-edges  on an initial strip of  it, by using a ruller and a sharp cutter on a plate of glass.
Thx

Edited January 30, 2022 by Thanasis

[Keith Black]

I found 3M masking tape to be the best. 

[mtaylor]

One thing overlooked with taping is "burnishing". I use strip of wood the width of the tape and then using the end to rub down the tape to secure a good seal.  It's a trick I learned a long time ago  from the car guys (full size) and it works well.  So along with what everyone else said, I suggest you add burnishing to that.

[Jeff5115]

thanks for the responses

[Charles Green]

How you remove the tape matters too!  Avoid pulling /lifting it up at 90-deg. to the surface.  Instead, get one end loose and pull it horizontally, back towards the other end.  This will minimize lifting forces that cause the adhesive to take wood fibers with it.   

[Bob Cleek]

I'll throw in one more technique pointer I learned from a professional painter.

 

Be very careful to keep your roll of tape from laying down on any surface which is not dust-free. Easiest way to accomplish this is by habitually storing all your opened packages of tape in a zip lock plastic bag. (This will also keep the tape fresher. The adhesive won't dry out over time.)

 

If a roll of tape is laid on a dusty surface (like a bench top right after sanding,) the adhesive on the edge of the roll will pick up all the dust and grit. It may not be visually apparent, but it's there. When the tape is applied, that dust and dirt ends up right on the edge of your tape and often gets under the very edge of the tape. This promotes paint bleeding beneath the edge of the tape and makes getting a sharp clean edge when the tape is taken up much more difficult to achieve. 

 

I second Keith's endorsement of 3M tapes. Cheap masking tape is penny-wise and pound-foolish. Regular blue painter's tape, even 3M, isn't really made for getting perfect masked edges at fine scale viewing distances. (It's made for house painting.) For razor sharp lines on models and a less aggressive adhesive that doesn't lift paint so readily, I'd stick to 3M or Scotch "Fine Line" tape (from the automotive paint supply store) which comes in a range of tape widths down to 1/4", or Tamiya's model tape, which I believe is pretty much the same thing packaged in a smaller quantity at a higher price. These tapes are specially designed to produce perfectly sharp paint edges on curved surfaces and are made of thin material that minimizes raised paint line edges. They'll cost a bit more more, but if you keep the roll in a plastic bag, it should last for years.

 

 

 

 

Edited January 31, 2022 by Bob Cleek

[Keith Black]

While we're giving tips using zip lock bags........ to help keep your varnish or polyurethane fresh once the can has been opened, between uses store it in a zip lock bag.

[allanyed]

Jeff

On 1/29/2022 at 11:45 PM, Dr PR said:

If you are worried about paint bleeding under the tape there is a simple trick. For example, suppose you have painted the bottom of a hull red and then want to paint the top black. First, paint the bottom of the hull with red paint to above the line where you want to mask it off. After the paint is thoroughly dry (do not rush this!) apply the tape and then apply a light coat of red paint along the edge of the tape, so if there is any bleeding it will be red.

I use this method and it works beautifully.   BUT, do the lighter color first, red then black, white then read should the top of the hull be white or similar light color.   If your vessel has a stripe as seen on some schooners, pinstriping tape is easier to get a clean line than painting a stripe, at least in my experience.

Allan