Mary of Norfolk 1790 by KenW - Finished - Pilot Boat

[KenW]

I’ve decided to try something different for my next model.  I acquired a book called, “Pilots: Volume 1. Pilot Schooners of North America and Great Britain”, editor and principal author Tom Cunliffe.  For some reason, I grew attached to these boats; and specifically, the boat, Mary of Norfolk, that is pictured on the dust jacket.

There is evidence of Pilot Boats operating on the East Coast from the early 18th century.  In Virginia, pilots were independent and competed with each other for customers.  Therefore, the boats had to be fast enough to get to incoming ships and thus be first in offering their services.  They also needed  a low draft in order to navigate the various river inlets flowing into the Chesapeake Bay.  The boats  lacked shrouds and bulwarks.  In fact there are no lines ‘holding up’ the masts.

The problem is that there are no plans for Mary of Norfolk.  But the book does have plans from the late 1700s and early 1800s that have these same characteristics.  So I’m going to commit the ‘sin’ of making a model based on an artist’s painting.  

The watercolor below is from the dust jacket and was done by George Tobin in 1794.

 

[Roger Pellett]

In your case, I don’t think that It’s a sin.  Several original drawings of Virginia Pilot Boats are available.  You can use hull lines from one of these.  You can get other details from the painting that you posted.  The painting is one of several painted by a serving Royal Navy Officer so is probably accurate.  That American Pilot boats had names, and later numbers on their sails is also a documented fact.  It pays to advertise!  Calling it Mary, Ann, or Jane etc. would be typical for pilot boats of the period.  Avoid Tiffany, Lisa, Meadow, etc.😀.  

 

Roger

Edited May 5, 2022 by Roger Pellett

[KenW]

Thanks Roger.  The book I mention has plans for several Virginia Pilot Boats.  And, I don't plan on using any other name than Mary.

I've cleared it with the Admiral.

Cheers.

[catopower]

I love early American pilot boats, and that is an EXCELLENT book.

 

I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

[KenW]

Thanks Clare.  I can't wait to see what I come up with either.

Cheers.

[KenW]

So I patched together some plans from the PILOTS book.  I feel that this is necessary to come up with proper hull lines.  I adjusted the plans so the model, at 1:48, translates to a boat with a length of 48 feet.  The beam is 16 feet, and the draft is around 6 feet.  I’m not sure exactly where the water line is at this point.  I’m going to use the ‘lift method’, sometimes called the bread-and-butter method.

I’ve made two halves of the first ‘lift’ (or the first slice of bread).  It takes me a lot longer because I don’t have power tools.  But I like making saw dust, plane dust and sand paper dust.  The lifts are made from Alaskan Yellow Cedar.  This bottom lift is just under a half inch on the stern end and a little over a quarter inch at the bow.  That took awhile to make that smooth and have both halves match.

 

[KenW]

Making the lifts has begun.  The four lifts are cut out, but more sanding is needed.  Each piece must be as close to the plans as possible.  That is the only way to insure that further sanding 

results in a properly shaped of the hull.

 

  

[KenW]

I’ve done a rough sanding of the port side lifts.  The stern area gave me some trouble, but once I was able to ‘read’ the various views on the plans, everything seemed to make sense.  The lifts  need more sanding, but I want to wait until I have the other side done.  The two sides have to match.  Then the final sanding will be done after the lifts are glued together.  I also have to decide on how to cut the deck hatches.  And, based on my research, whether or not I want to make a small stove in the forward hatch. Advise is always welcome.

 

[bruce d]

I'm looking forward to seeing this. Mind if I watch?👍

[KenW]

Absolutely Bruce.  All are welcome.  Also, advice appreciated.

Cheers.

 

 

 

 

[KenW]

A lot of progress to report.  The four lifts of each half of the hull have had their preliminary sanding and are glued together.  Both halves have also been sanded, although much more sanding is needed.  The hull looks like a boat.  Photos are attached.  I am going to use some plastic wood or Gesso to fill in the cracks between the lifts.  And I plan to have a sheet of 3/32 cedar down the middle that will form the stem and stern posts and the keel.

 

[KenW]

Just a quick update - I glued the two halves together including the sheet in the middle.  No real problems except that I need to do more sanding.  When I look at the shape of the hull, it looks fine; but when I hold it a certain way under a light, I see a slight ridge near the keel.  That ridge must be removed.  I know that when I plank the hull, it will become obvious.  It’s best to solve the problem now.

 

[shipmodel]

Hi Ken - 

 

She looks like she is coming along nicely.

I like the developing shape of the hull form.  She should look sweet when you get to plank her.

 

Be well

 

Dan

[KenW]

Thanks Dan.  I’m spending the summer in the Poconos and haven’t been able update my blog in a while.

I’ll be back in September to show my progress.

Cheers.

[KenW]

I’ve fled Brooklyn for the much cooler woods of Northeastern Pennsylvania.  But, I don’t have the software here that I have on my PC at home.  So this is the entry that I would’ve made at the end of July.

 

So far, I’ve been able to line the two main hatches with 1/32 walnut strips.  The hatches will eventually have covers.  And lines to “batten down the hatches.”  The preliminary deck planking was done with 1/16 strips because I wanted to sand them down to achieve a raised center to allow water to drain off the deck.  I feel that the hull’s deck is too flat.  

The pencil lines on the deck are to simulate the location of bulkheads and allow me to make the paper strips to plan the final deck planking

 

[KenW]

By the end of August I finished the final planking of the deck using boxwood.  Each strip was shaped in an effort to reflect the shape of the deck. The covers of the hatches were made to conform to the painting of the boat (see my first entry).  There’s also a gap for the bow sprint.  

Next up is planking the hull which I think will pose some interesting challenges.

   

[KenW]

Before I started planking the hull, I wanted to put in the wood work around the deck.  There is no rail.  I used walnut, which is the same as the lining of the hatches.  I’m happy with the result and think, so far, the hull looks a lot like the photo in the book.  I still have to apply some Wipe-On Poly; and now the hull planking can now commence.

 

[KenW]

I’ve spent a lot of time trying to plank the hull.  (Three attempts have been removed and replaced.) I’ve now got 7 strakes installed on the starboard side and I see problems with the overall look of the bow.  The planks look OK (1st photo), but they are rising way too fast (second photo).  I’ll need to use at least two drop planks in order to finish.  The real solution is to use edge bent planks.  However, I can't get the 1/32 inch thick, ⅛ inch wide cedar planks to bend enough; and the planks don’t hold to whatever bend I do achieve.  I think my only solution is to order some sheets and cut strips out in the shape I need.  

If anyone has any advice, I’d appreciate it.

 

[KenW]

Well, I made my decision.  I pulled the planks off the hull and will replace them with 1/16 thick strips.  As I was advised, the thicker strips will bend, without breaking, to the extent I need.  So far, I’ve installed 9 strakes and the results look much better.  I’m going to start from the keel for the next strakes and, looking at the planking so far, it will be interesting when the two sets of strakes meet. 

 

[garyshipwright]

Hi Ken. You may of already did this but what about  breaking your hull up in to belt's. Am building Chuck's Winchelsea and he breaks up the hull below the wale in to 4 belt's of planking. Once you find the belts just take and using very fine tape, mark off the placement of that belt. Am using 1/64 that I got off of amazon and the belts are really making it so much easier planking the hull. Once you have your belt's located you can break each belt down to the number of plank's that will cover that belt, using  a propotional divider or tick strip. Just look down the hull on that belt line and you will see where it needs to be adjusted. Take a tick strip and mark out the width of the belt, then using a planking fan you can find the number of planks in that belt. I like using a propotional divider because for me it's more accurate then using a tic strip because some times  I make my tick mark's a little on the thick side. That really makes the plank a little on the wide side. Hope this is of some help to you good sir. Gary

[KenW]

Thanks Gary.  I am still having trouble with the planks starting at the keel going "up" or down since the boat is upside-downside.

Your belts may be just what I need.

Cheers.

[garyshipwright]

Ken usually the garboard strake next to the keel is a little on the finicky side. It widen's at the stern post and decreases at the stem. You don't want it getting to far up the stem and usually doesn't go to far past  the joint between the stem and the keel, maybe 6 inches. but each boat and ship are different here.  Once you get that one to your liking the rest of them should be a lot easier. If I get a chance I will take a photo of the one am doing on my Winchelsea which may be of some help to you. Gary

Edited October 31, 2022 by garyshipwright

[KenW]

I'd like to see your photo.

Someone told me this would be an interesting planking exercise, and he was right on.

The stem is giving me the most problems; although I can't wait to see how it all looks when the two rows come together.

Cheers.

[rudybob]

On 10/24/2022 at 7:03 PM, KenW said:

Well, I made my decision.  I pulled the planks off the hull and will replace them with 1/16 thick strips.  As I was advised, the thicker strips will bend, without breaking, to the extent I need.  So far, I’ve installed 9 strakes and the results look much better.  I’m going to start from the keel for the next strakes and, looking at the planking so far, it will be interesting when the two sets of strakes meet. 

 

I admire perfection attempts because I can't. Good Job!!

[garyshipwright]

Hi Ken. Hope these are some help to you. If you want a better photo of in a different place on her let me know will you please. Gary

[KenW]

Thanks for the photos Gary.  They will be a help.

The problem with my boat is that the bow has this "bowl" shape.  But I like the idea of planking in sections.

Hope your modeling is going well.

Cheers.

[garyshipwright]

So far so good and do hope the photo's will be helpful in your planking. Gary

[druxey]

Do read the planking tutorials on MSW as well as study Gary's photos. A bluff bow can be successfully planked using these techniques.

[allanyed]

9 hours ago, druxey said:

Do read the planking tutorials on MSW

In addition to the tutorial by David Antscherl, if you have not already done so, check out the You Tube video series on planking by Chuck Passaro.

Allan

[KenW]

Thanks David, Gary and Allan. 

As a member of the Ship Model Society of NJ, I've read and printed all the tutorials by Chuck. 

I should return to his monthly workshops.  (I hear he has started them up again.)

Every time I take some planks off and replace them, I see an improvement.