Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75

[md1400cs]

Mates,

 

Thanks for your input, and suggestions. I think that things will be sort-of salvageable.

 

Edwin: here is a pic of the carriages reversed. Much better, indeed. I will shorten it still at least 1 mm or so.

 

Ferit and Nigel: Yes, I knew (as I was building the new carriages) that, as a result, some of the ports would open too low. I initially intended on only purchasing after-market cannons, and using kit provided carriages. Then I evolved, learned more, studied source materials, and improved my skills. I was also going to install cannons of two different sizes. I don't remember why?? All things past come back to occasionally haunt when there is a lack of foresight.

 

Yes, I sadly realized, after the first new carriage, that I now have a new problem. I will need to lower the upper carriage frames a bit. But in doing so I will loose the proper carriage "boxy" proportions. As well as the proper positioning of a small transverse beam upon which the inboard end of the cannon rests (also used for aiming). See enclosed museum pic. Hmmm

 

I can't, at this point, heighten the existing ports so carriages will need to sit lower, and trimmed at the top. I can :Fudge" a bit with the wheels, as well as a minor thinning of the lower frame thickness. All of these compromises are just that.

 

Nigel: Yes, I also realized that on "push back" there was no room for re-loading.

 

But (Question?) did not cannons also have to be turned at an angle in order for the gunners to insert that long wooden-rammer with new balls or cleaning after the last firing? I'm ignorant of all of this.

 

If that were the case then my spacing after re-sizing the carriages (which I will shorten just a bit more) may not be such a big visual mistake? Just asking (:-) Oh, yes those smaller cannons won't work. I will use 14 all of the same size.

 

Thanks for your suggestions and comments, they are always very appreciated and kindly taken.

 

Michael

[NMBROOK]

Hi Michael

 

The cannons only need to come back far enough to provide workroom for the gun crew.The end of the rammer would have been poked out the gunport then fed into the cannon.I think if you can get the 'room' to two feet or around 8mm in your scale that would be feasable.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[md1400cs]

Hi Michael

 

The cannons only need to come back far enough to provide workroom for the gun crew.The end of the rammer would have been poked out the gunport then fed into the cannon.I think if you can get the 'room' to two feet or around 8mm in your scale that would be feasable.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Nigel,

 

Thanks for the clarification, and the information.  

 

I will follow your advice and assume 8mm as "enough scaled room". I will build two smaller carriages (oversizing them just a tad) and then position them at those last positions on each side of the weather deck, mounted with smaller cannons.

 

The larger guns just won't work, even with the Corel included smaller carriages. So a custom approach would have been needed in any case. The second pic. has an 8mm reference piece of wood.

 

As usual an always big thanks for your active visits, and suggestions to my build log, very kind of you.

 

Cheers,

 

Michael

[Vivian Galad]

In Wasa case and considering the hasty manner it was constructed - that couldn´t happen? I mean, canon´s carriages bigger than they should be?

[NMBROOK]

Hi Michael

You may have misunderstood.In the retracted position the muzzle would want to be inboard of the bulwark by 8mm.Looking at your pictures,this looks almost unachievable.With the wheels in place,would there be enough height clearance to miss the grating?That would at least theoretically allow the carriage to run back so the rear wheels came into contact with the hatch combing.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[md1400cs]

Nigel,

 

Yes I did misunderstand. Thanks for the input input Well, for the four most rearward cannons, so be it. It seems as though, however, that I may not be the only Vasa kit builder with this dilemma irrespective of manufacturer.

 

So this issue is still to be resolved, and is a work in mental progress. I may opt for those smaller guns, and build small carriages. At this point I remain irritated, and may move on to an other area.

 

Also, when I look at photos of the 1/10th, that has some very long weather deck guns, It would seem to be a problem for them as well? As always thanks for your sage input.

 

Speaking of guns I finally received those four stern swivel guns that I had ordered. I may segue and install those in the interim. A nice part of this hobby; One can meander all over the place, exclusive of when it comes the time to rig. That needs to be specifically ordered.

 

 

Cheers,

 

Michael

[md1400cs]

Hello Mates,

 

I think that I'm becoming boring for some of you here, BUT I think that I have resolved the weather deck cannon carriage issues.

 

1)  reduced their length front and rear

2)  lowered and deepened the upper groove, in which the cannons pivot

3)  "tucked in" the wheels a bit closer to the under frame. Not right I know !!

4) will install two smaller guns on each side towards the stern, and built four smaller carriages.

 

 

A BIG thanks to Nigel, and to B.E. (got an email but your quote did not post?) Both of you, as usual were very kind in helping me. Also thanks to all of the kind folks who drop in, click or just look in -- Thanks so much (:-)

 

So it should work out. I won't post any more silly cannon issues until they are set for metal bits, wheels, and installation. Though as I have mentioned I know that these cannons are not "Vasa" types nor the correct lengths. But they look a heck of a lot better than kit included generic cannons IMO.

 

Regards,

 

MIchael

[md1400cs]

Hi Michael

 

Great job on your cannons, with all of your efforts the sure have turned very nice. You sure are turning your ship into a master piece,                                               ENJOY.

 

Regards   Lawrence

Lawrence,

 

Thanks so much for your underserved compliment. You are so kind. There are so many masterpieces at MSW that are allowing me to learn as I progress. I'm touched. I have certainly improved my skills from emulating real masters here (:-)  thanks again so nice.......

 

Michael

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

I took a detour from the carriages to install four swivel guns at the stern. According to Landström these would have eventually been mounted.

 

Needed to deepen the shallow openings a bit more, easy enough.

 

Then prepared the guns by modifying the mounting pins using small brass nails. I flattened the round heads as well. You will note that I made small wood mounting bits, but it turns out that, what do they say? "You can't put a square peg into a round hole". They did not fit.

 

Luckily the guns were easy to insert and "mount" in a believable fashion without the use of wooden bits.

 

Next, I used an aluminum tube to make the four small decorative rings. I used that material because of its softness, and the rings were to be painted in any case.

 

Fairly simple used a rod cutter for an initial deep groove, then on to the sander to thin the tip. Lastly back to the cutter for a couple of delicate turns, a bit of detailing and then paint. 

 

---------------------

 

OK back to the carriages. As always thanks for dropping by.

 

Regards,

 

Michael

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Still working, very slowly, on the carriages. This post is in the form of a question. Would any of you kind soles have a "perfect" idea on how I might replicate the axle stops so that the wheels won't fall off?

 

The small pieces that I am using for the axle supports that attach vertically to the carriage are a bit too wide to be added to the axles as keys. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

I do know that most, who are kind enough to drop-in do so silently, but any ideas that have worked for you would be a treat.

 

I will also post this in the general section.

 

 

Michael

[Karleop]

Hola Michael,

 

probably you can make very small holes using gauge 78 (0.016in or 0.406mm)  to 80 (0.014in or 0.343mm) drills and then using brass wire of the appropriate size.

 

Saludos

Edited April 7, 2014 by Karleop

[Ferit]

Great as always Michael.

Finally detailed gun carriages are coming... Pleasure...

My opinion is as detailed as possible are especially the guns and carriages, more beautiful is the overall view...

[md1400cs]

 

Hola Michael,

 

probably you can make very small holes using gauge 78 (0.016in or 0.406mm)  to 80 (0.014in or 0.343mm) drills and then using brass wire of the appropriate size.

 

Saludos

 

Karl,

 

Thanks. I did just order some small drill bits from Amazon. The wire seems to be the overwhelming idea. Thanks for your input.

 

Michael

[NMBROOK]

Hi Michael

 

Apologies for not being around much of late and missing your last update.Excellent work on the swivel guns,they look fabulous   I too would have suggested wire for the axles,at this scale a representation rather than exact replication is more than adequate.Tip for drilling the holes,drill a hole in a small wooden block for the axle to slide in,then drill a hole through the block to act as a guide for drilling the pin holes.This will make it easy to keep them central and stop the drill from wondering due to the curved surface of the axle

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[md1400cs]

Hi Michael

 

Apologies for not being around much of late and missing your last update.Excellent work on the swivel guns,they look fabulous   I too would have suggested wire for the axles,at this scale a representation rather than exact replication is more than adequate.Tip for drilling the holes,drill a hole in a small wooden block for the axle to slide in,then drill a hole through the block to act as a guide for drilling the pin holes.This will make it easy to keep them central and stop the drill from wondering due to the curved surface of the axle

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Nigel, Brilliant ! I will do just as you suggested.  As always, thanks.

 

Michael

[riverboat]

Beautiful work Michael, the guns are looking real nice.

Frank

[md1400cs]

Frank,

 

Thanks for you always very kind words. Very encouraging indeed.

 

Michael

[jaerschen]

Excellent work Michael, your Wasa is looking great

[md1400cs]

Juergen,

 

Thanks so much for dropping by, as well as your kinds words, all very encouraging, especially coming from such an artist as yourself. I have been following your Leopard - such first-rate work (:-)

 

Regards,

 

Michael

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Still plodding along with carriages putting all of the bits together. It turns out that each assembled cannon will have just shy of 50 parts including the 10 parts that make up the wood carriage itself.

 

So 50 X 14 carriages;  Hmmmm 700 bits, I hope that this obsessiveness "pays off" (:-) I think that it will.

 

Next step is putting all of those brass bits into the blackening caldron then assembling them one at a time.

 

Thought the right angled and lengthy brass bits that attach to the upper and front edges of each carriage will have to be "blackened" carriage by carriage, as the bits are specifically sized to each carriage that have, it turns out, minor variations in size here and there. 

 

My error for the lack of standardized forward thinking. So throwing all 56 of those bits into the caldron would turn into a minor puzzle on the backside.

 

Please note that the method employed for drilling the axle hole stop pins was an absolutely Brilliant suggestion from Nigel, the sage that he is. Worked effortlessly. Once set up, the twenty-eight axles were drilled in less than fifteen minutes. That in-and-of-itself saved me lots of mental wear-and-tear. Thanks my friend.....

 

FYI: the red markings on the axles were so that I knew that I had adjusted the front and rear track widths, and the tips were OK to be drilled, and the longer left-over bits Dremel'd off.

 

Also regarding the Proxxon Milling tool, I did purchase a Proxxon chuck. I have sooo many tiny drill bits so this attachment becomes a one size fits all helper. It will accept the tiniest of bits and keep them super straight during use. Highly recommended part.

 

Again thanks so much for dropping by always so appreciated.

 

Regards,

 

Michael

 

 

[riverboat]

Nice display Michael, I like Nigel's idea for drilling  the axles

Frank

[md1400cs]

Frank,

 

Thanks much appreciated. Yes Nigel's help was brilliant.

 

Michael

[NMBROOK]

That's a nice production line you have set up Michael That is a LOT of parts but I am sure the result will be more than worth it in the long run.One last suggestion re the drilling jig,label it and put it in the tool box,you will probably find it will come in again I used to throw mine away,but have now learnt to save them,the small ones at least as they take no space up.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[md1400cs]

That's a nice production line you have set up Michael That is a LOT of parts but I am sure the result will be more than worth it in the long run.One last suggestion re the drilling jig,label it and put it in the tool box,you will probably find it will come in again I used to throw mine away,but have now learnt to save them,the small ones at least as they take no space up.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Nigel,

 

Thanks again. I will keep this jig, I was going to toss it. You are right i would certainly regret it. As they say,why re-invent the wheel again and again.

 

Michael

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Here is an update on the cannons, very laborious, but moving along. The carriage wheels are finally completed and installed.

 

Some notes;

 

As you may have noted from previous posts I used small rings with stems to create the axle braces, cutting the ring parts.

 

I cut and adjusted all 112 individually, then glued them with a tiny bit of Gorilla white wood glue. Once they "set", I then added CA glue at the very bottoms for permanent adhesion. Note the shinny bits at the axle groove tips. The wheels will hide these smears.

 

Each carriage had to be size adjusted for my inconsistent cannon deck port heights. Hmmm. So numbered each one, after adjusting the carriage heights, and slipped their corresponding parts into small zip packs.

 

Next step is to blacken the metal upper frames which are presently still bright brass. I want to use the chemical, but think that painting might be faster because I need to airbrush all of the cannons (including the lower and upper "dummies" black. So I might do this all at once.

 

I haven't used my Paasche in so many years, I was surprised to find my air pump still working (:-)

 

This will be followed by drilling small holes at the bottom center of each carriage to allow for a set nail when attached to the deck.

 

Lastly, the blocks, hooks and ropes will be attached.

 

PS: I think that my axle pins are too far away from the washer Drat !!

 

Michael

[Vivian Galad]

Wow! Great work on those canons!

[Karleop]

Very very nice work Michael, congratulations.

 

 

Saludos, Karl

[schiffebastler]

Hi Michael,

just read through the whole posts concerning guns and carriages. They really look fantastic!
During the last few weeks, unfortunately, I had to solve some problems at home ... but now I am back again to follow your great work on the Wasa.
I like your choosen canons, they suit very well to the whole model. Even more I like your own carriages, and I wish you a lot of endurance for producing and adjusting all of them individually.

Concerning the four low gun-ports, I think your proposal is the best possible compromise and I am sure, nobody will notice this small difference to the real ship unless you tell it. The only other way would be to leave them away.

Looking forward to your next update.

Regards, Joachim

[JanV]

Very nice done. I know how small these are so I can only say perfect. I like the way you are updating the Corel kit to this high standard, as sai before I will use some if your ideas in my Vasa

[NAZGÛL]

Nice cannons and carriages! Great detail work Michael.

 

 

/Matti