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md1400cs

Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75

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Michael,I have to hand it to you,in thirty years of doing this,I have never seen deadeyes used as pulleys!!That is some excellent out of the box thinking my friend B)  B)  B)  B)  B)  B) and they look great!!

 

Kind Regards Nigel

 

P.S.I think even RR has dropped down to eight cylinders,and stuck a couple of turbos on :D  :D but thank you anyway.

Nigel,

 

Well I'm so thrilled that you saw something in my approach. The synapses were responding to absolute frustration with my inability to actually make these silly little monsters; cannibalization seemed to be an approach. To think that for this moment in time the roles were reversed---thank you (:-)

 

Michael

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Wow, your pulleys look really fantastic! It is a good idea, I will keep it in mind for my next project!

 

Regards, Joachim

Joachim,

 

Thank you for the nice compliment, happy that it may be useful for you as well.

 

Michael

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Wow Michael! I just can't believe this is the same kit I am building! Do I have things to learn!

 

Hats off!!!

Ulises,

 

Thanks so much for your very kind words. Actually I will be giving you the same compliment when I get to My rigging part - your work is so so excellent.

 

Regards,

 

Michael

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No words anymore for these wonderful details.

JanV,

 

Thanks for your very kind thoughts much appreciated. 

 

Michael

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Hi Mates,

 

Thanks for all of your very kind and supportive postings, like clicks, and also for just dropping by, all much appreciated.

 

Just finishing up the mizzenmast channels as well their corresponding chainplates and deadeyes. For these small and claustrophobically located deadeyes, I decided to pre-rig them. I did not trust my skills by waiting to thread the ropes. I will adjust the ropes once the shrouds are attached to the mast.   They look as though they have not been threaded correctly, but they are ok, I just need to rotate the deadeyes back and forth a bit.

 

I know that the channel has been mounted too low, but that has been relegated to hindsight, because stern decorative pieces would not have positioned properly (too many gaps) had I lowered the upper galleries due to my miss-calculations during stern assembly. My fault -  Grrrrr.

 

The last two pics. show the beginnings of the next bit; the two blocks that are mounted on those channels. I'm using balsa to create the proper shape, and angles (still a work-in-progress), and then I will cut two out of other wood.

 

The milling machine will get flipped on, hmmm - lets see if I can drill and groove out a proper space for the needed pulleys? On the plus-side pulleys are just already waiting in the wings for just a bit of weight loss on their sides ha ha....

 

Regards,

 

Michael

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Incredible looking as usual....no wonder this thing capsized with all the drippings on her. Most ornate I think I've ever seen. Nice work as usual.

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Nigel,

 

Thanks for your sage advice, as this will be my first attempt I will remain cautious, and follow your protocol as you suggest. 

 

Michael

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Incredible looking as usual....no wonder this thing capsized with all the drippings on her. Most ornate I think I've ever seen. Nice work as usual.

John,

 

Thanks.

 

yes the ship certainly had top heavy issues. It was a brief beauty.Amazing that it is still available to see today.

 

Michael

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All I can say is this gets better and better all the time. Beautiful work. Keep the pictures coming.

Wacko,

 

Thanks for your always generous postings, always very much appreciated.

 

Michael

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Hola Michael, your unpainted hull sees very nice with the natural colors of wood and similar to the original in Sweden. Initialy I doubt to paint or not to paint my Vasa and in the latter if paint it blue or red.  Finally I decided to follow the original version but yours looks terrific.  Congratulations     :cheers:

Karl

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Hola Michael, your unpainted hull sees very nice with the natural colors of wood and similar to the original in Sweden. Initialy I doubt to paint or not to paint my Vasa and in the latter if paint it blue or red.  Finally I decided to follow the original version but yours looks terrific.  Congratulations     :cheers:

Karl

 Karl ¡gracias for your kind words.

 

I decided to use a natural darker brown wood, instead of painting because I did not trust my skills with painted wood. I have learned a lot since then. My understanding is that red was the color that the Vasa museum experts believe was used. I have been following your build it looks excellent !! red was the good choice.

 

Regards,

 

Michael

Edited by md1400cs

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She's gorgeous!! Michael........... beautiful work.

Frank

Frank,

 

Thanks so much.

 

BTW I really like how you created that aged wood look on your Delta riverboat build. As a kid these boats always held that romance of the Mississippi river for me.

 

Regards,

 

Michael

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Hello Mates,

 

OK that's enough pain for one morning; such poor results. Going downstairs to make myself a second latè, maybe Irish style (:-). Then, go online and order real ropes from Syren. 

 

I could, arguably, get better -practice, practice, practice I get that. But this very inexpensive Model Expo Ropewalk also won't allow for really long runs. So I'm moving forward, and, I don't want to spend the big bucks for the Byrnes (excellent product from all reviews).

 

I don't have a closet full of pending builds. It would need several ships just to pay for itself. Deferring to the experts on ropes. Oh I will also order a complete set of pear wood blocks from Syren as well (:-)

 

PS: The Ropewalk's only problem is operator malfunction, I'm not in any way disparaging the product. It works (:-) Model Expo is an excellent company. In fact I bought my Corel from them, along with many  other things.

 

Regards,

 

 

Michael

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Hi Michael

I do see where you are coming from there.I cannot be doing with the faff of making my own,I would rather spend the time on other parts of the build.I too am considering ordering in from Chuck,including replacing the kit blocks with Pear ones,for my Caroline build.I haven't taken a sidestep to assess my requirements yet.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Nigel,

 

Noted regarding the ropes (:-)  

 

BTW you made my day with the word "faff" I had not heard that word since childhood. My mom, who was born in Carlyle, ( A bit North of you) used that word all the time when speaking to my brothers and me. 

 

xoxo  Thanks for the memories

 

MIchael

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Love that Starboard quarter shot of Wasa Michael, what a class build she looks.

 

I'm with Nigel on the 'faffing' about trying to make stuff when I can get a quality bought in product, ropes and blocks are a prime example.

 

'Faffing' is alive and well in these 'ere parts, but then I'm not far from Nigel :)

 

B.E.

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Love that Starboard quarter shot of Wasa Michael, what a class build she looks.

 

I'm with Nigel on the 'faffing' about trying to make stuff when I can get a quality bought in product, ropes and blocks are a prime example.

 

'Faffing' is alive and well in these 'ere parts, but then I'm not far from Nigel :)

 

B.E.

B.E.

 

Thanks for the compliment, it is certainly nice to read this from such an artist as you are. Very much appreciated.

 

Ah the "old World" how nice it is to hang on to traditions, including active vocabulary. This word being originally British, never got exported to our side of the pond. I need to start using it to confuse my friends (:-)

 

Michael

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Michael, I've been to your build log early on but realized it's been a long time since then.  Great fun seeing your innovations with deadeyes and snatch blocks.  It is a real challenge building a model of a ship recovered with most of the superstructure lost to the quarterdeck.  On the "Victory" I have hundreds of photographs of the real ship for reference.  Having never been to Sweden, I'll follow your 'Wasa" with even greater interest.  Your model is superb and tells the story so much better than the original.  Cheers, Gil

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Just a word of caution guys. If you are going through the expense of buying your ropes, plan very carefully every rigging step. Remember that ropes are the commodity that is the most wasted in our hobby, (IMO). Just think how much rope there is actually in a knot, and how much rope you need to tie it, then you trim off a large amount of thread. Use a locally available cheap thread to do your seizings; don't waste your expensive rope here. Also, when calculating how much rope you are going to need for your ship, take into account the coils. Some people don't and then fall short.

 

Hope this helps!

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Michael, I've been to your build log early on but realized it's been a long time since then.  Great fun seeing your innovations with deadeyes and snatch blocks.  It is a real challenge building a model of a ship recovered with most of the superstructure lost to the quarterdeck.  On the "Victory" I have hundreds of photographs of the real ship for reference.  Having never been to Sweden, I'll follow your 'Wasa" with even greater interest.  Your model is superb and tells the story so much better than the original.  Cheers, Gil

Gil,

 

Thanks so much for visiting my build. Your very kind remarks are so appreciated, especially coming form such an artist as yourself. Thanks again very touching....

 

Michael

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Just a word of caution guys. If you are going through the expense of buying your ropes, plan very carefully every rigging step. Remember that ropes are the commodity that is the most wasted in our hobby, (IMO). Just think how much rope there is actually in a knot, and how much rope you need to tie it, then you trim off a large amount of thread. Use a locally available cheap thread to do your seizings; don't waste your expensive rope here. Also, when calculating how much rope you are going to need for your ship, take into account the coils. Some people don't and then fall short.

 

Hope this helps!

Ulises,

 

Thank you for the advice. At this point Syren will fill my needs, I did order a lot of rope (:-) though not enough, yet, for all of the rigging. I'm happy to help Chuck at Syren. But he is actually helping me (:-)

 

 

Michael

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Michael I was contemplating this kit and thus headed to your build log to do some research. It appears that the stern of this kit is much too narrow. Since the early part of your build is lost, I am not sure if this can be easily remedied. It seems as if quite a few frames need to be fabricated to correct this problem? Or do you think there is an easier fix? From your pictures it looks as if the stern needs to be wider by at least 1.5cm.

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Keith,

 

Hi, thanks so much for dropping by. When I started this log, I did not include the very early stages, as those tend to be very redundant for so many kit builds. However in the case of the Corel's Vasa it could be informative in that Corel very much miss-managed the shape of the stern. Here are some early pics of the build. I hope that they are helpful. I followed the kit plans to a "T".

 

With regard to adding 8 mm per side it would, I think create other issues.

 

1) it would sort of "Bow" outward the entire stern as you would need to add girth from the keel up to the weather deck. You would have to start a bit aft of mid-ship to still create proper longitudinal look to the hull

 

2) it would probably create larger gaps when you install the decorative pieces. Note on my build that I did not broaden the stern and there still are minor gaps in the spacing of the "wooden" decorative artwork. See the museum photo compared to mine, everything is tightly connected. Widening the stern may not look good, given the sizes of Corel's gilded parts.

 

The primary issue with this kit is the mis-shaped stern, which I did manage to fix after the fact. Now that is an area you could easily circumvent during the initial stages.

 

As I went along, I was very self critical with certain failures, on my part, that could have been avoided had I also referred to other sources during early build stages. I've learned a lot since. The Corel is a nice kit, though it is the least accurate of the three available commercially. With much extra detail work it will produce an acceptable and beautiful build. All of my friends who know nothing about this ship think its perfect--funny, only we fanatics here at MSW, especially Vasa builders will be able to see the errors among the kits. I've droned on a bit too long (:-)

 

If you have any other questions, please post them. I'm very happy to assist in any way I can. And as I said, if your scroll through what I've criticized of my work, it will certainly be helpful for you to  avoid if you decide on the Corel.

 

MIchael

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Thanks for your reply, Michael. Believe it or not I have actually had a good, detailed look at your pictures and compared them to the pictures I have of the original and the scale replica in the museum. I did notice that some of the ornamentation seems uncomfortably crowded at places but with gaps in some others. I am not criticizing your build, you are doing a marvellous job. But I do question if the kit designers got it right, and your answer seems to confirm my suspicions. I guess my question is whether it would be possible to rectify these flaws if a new build from the same kit was attempted. Your reply suggests that it would be too difficult - not only would I have to fabricate all the frames (something I don't have an issue with), but I might have to redo the carvings as well (a definite no-no for me!). I guess that makes up my mind for me - thank you very much.

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Keith,

 

Noted. Thanks for the nice words. In retrospect I would have opted for the Sergal/Mantua. It is larger, but much closer to the 1-1

I have seen your previous work. You are so talented. A Wasa, other than the Corel, would be much better for your needs.

 

If were to start this project again I would also use this absolutely beautiful Sergal example as a guide. This artist is about as good as it gets for this ship, and this hobby.

 

(Moderators! I hope that I'm not breaking any rules by posting this link, if I am please let me know and I will re-write this post.)

 

http://warshipvasa.freeforums.net/thread/84/shels-vasa-completed           such a beautiful example 

 

PS: Hindsight is always so 20/20 

 

Regards,

 

Michael

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Hi Mates,

 

Gun carriages part one.

 

Moving forward knowing that I still needed to finish up some deadeye channel plates, but I needed a "fresh" task. I was in the doldrums.

 

So, since it's really time for thinking about the weather deck cannons, here are some preliminary details. Having fun with this.....

 

Choices were to install Corel issued cannons and carriages or disregard these. I had already purchased some decorative cannons so the real decision was; should I use Corel carriages or build some. Easy choice.

 

Pics are fairly self-explanatory.

 

First pic is what Corel offered.

Second pic is taken from the museum upper gun deck. Carriages are much boxier.

 

The "M” I used as a template for aligning the sides during gluing.

 

I did not have a wide enough piece of timber to make the bases so I glued two pieces together and then shaped them to the correct width.

 

The first semi-completed carriage is just a sample. I will need to adjust the cannon placement. Its a bit too far aft, but you get the idea. Also sanding and further detailing will follow, along with grooves for the axles. I will use smaller wheels for the rear.

 

I have all of the metal bits, hooks, wheel metal rings, and beautiful blocks and ropes that I just received from Chuck at Syren.

 

Yes, I know that the weather deck cannons are incorrect for the Vasa, but in this instance I don't care (:-)

 

Lastly I just received a set of 50 decorative cannons for the upper and lower gun decks. So all of the cannons will at least match. Again, thanks so much for dropping by it is so appreciated.

 

Regards,

 

Michael

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