EURYALUS 1803 by Peter6172 - 1:48

[Peter6172]

Managed to re-saw one of the Cherry planks that GDALE graciously milled up for me so I could get going on the new keel.

Keel 1 and Keel 2 ready to go; 4 more sections to go.  I just love working with wood. I am using a junior hacksaw, a 4mm chisel, a 10in flat file and a piece of 19 x 65mm radiate pine with some 120grit glued to one face.

I'm using Veritas mini set to see these mini chisels sharp.

[allanyed]

I admire both your workmanship and courage in nearly starting from square one Peter

Allan

[Peter6172]

Some more progress on EURYALUS.

 

Stern deadwoods cut and shaped.  They still need shaping to keel and bearding line to rabbet.

 

I have also made a start of the stern post/inner post and cut a bollard piece and the top transom to test my bevelling skills.

 

I also dismantled and then reassembled the building board to set the two support ends perpendicular and on the centreline of the plan.  I am almost ready to start placing components not he building board.

Edited January 7, 2023 by Peter6172

[Peter6172]

Forgot that I hadn't finished the Stemson so I did that this morning.  As can be seen from the comparison, I suspect the original was made from a photocopy template that was not a full size copy (at least not in both x and y  directions.

 

The top transom has been fitted to the stern/inner post.  I still have to shape the forward face, shape the camber athwartship then finally start the bevel on both forward and aft faces.

I won't shape the sternpost till after all the transoms have been made and dry fitted it.

Edited January 8, 2023 by Peter6172

[allanyed]

Don't forget to keep the margin line, which is about 3 or 4 inches, on the aft face of the wing transom, flat.

Allan

Edited January 8, 2023 by allanyed

[Peter6172]

Alan,  Missed tyour post before getting this far. The extent of shaping is just on the extreme edge so I will be able to assure the flat remains for the most part.  I have now marked the margin in on all the transom pievces

 

Stern post shaped and fitted with partially shaped transom pieces.  For the underside templates, I made a copy of the transoms diagram on pg. 45 of Vol 1 of Allans book and then blew it up 195% on the copier; just remember which lines your supposed to be following....    

 

Sternsom knee also cut and shaped.  Final fitting to be undertaken once the transom have been internally shaped.

 

All the keels have been made.  Time to turn to the false keel components

 

 

Edited January 9, 2023 by Peter6172

[Peter6172]

Couldn't wait.  Had to do a preliminary fitting tonight otherwise I wouldn't sleep.

 

First dry fit. Someminor shaping to do to fit the knee then test deadwood 4 and 5 elements to make sure everything will go together before I start gluing up.

 

Waiting for some info back from Allan Y regarding the extent of copper between the false keel and the keel.  Does it extend forward and under the gripe?

[allanyed]

7 hours ago, Peter6172 said:

I have now marked the margin in on all the transom pievces

So far, so (VERY) good!!!   Just as an FYI, there is no margin line on any transom other than the wing transom.  The margin line has to do with strip of molding that covers where the lower counter planks and hull planks meet.   

Allan

[Peter6172]

11 hours ago, allanyed said:

So far, so (VERY) good!!!   Just as an FYI, there is no margin line on any transom other than the wing transom.  The margin line has to do with strip of molding that covers where the lower counter planks and hull planks meet.   

Allan

Ah.....   well that makes everything simpler then

[Peter6172]

New acquisition arrived today.  This will helpmeet with shaping frames.

[dvm27]

You’re gonna love your spindle sander. Is it oscillating? If not make sure to move the wood all the time so you don’t get burns. With the oscillating spindle sander not only can you do inside curves but inside bevels as well at the same time. Your knuckles will thank you when it becomes time to fair the inside of the hull!

Edited January 10, 2023 by dvm27

[druxey]

Nice bit of kit to have. Your work so far looks very neatly done.

[Peter6172]

OK so its glue up day.

 

Have started assembling the deadwood components  and the transoms to the stern post (the sternsom knee is simply dry fitted under the clamps and ensuring the complete alignment of the transoms so there will be no nasty surprises later).

 

I have also notched out the mortices for the deadwood tenon joints.  This is where 1 and 2mm wide chisels really come to the fore.

 

Finally got around to getting the replacement 1200 x 600mm replacement plans and elevation drawings to the printers so I can get on with fixing everything down on the building board.  in the meantime I have been using photoshop to create font and back templates for the ribs on label paper.

[Peter6172]

Almost ready to lay the keel and install stern post and stem.   False keel has been cut, scarfed, glue and placed.  Just waiting on some copper foil to lay between the false keel and keel.

 

Seen post/transoms.deadwood all glued up and dry fitted to keel.  The first recycled part from Russells build is dry fitted too: port aft fashion piece.     I had to cut the mortices as Russel only but fitted these joints.   The fit was pretty good so everything is going by the drawings.

 

I chose what I thought was the simpler option of sanding the aft deadwoods and forward aprons and fitting a 3" thick (scale) piece to set up the beading line.  IN hind sight this was far more difficult as establishing the right thickness for the joints was something I should have done after glue up so some cherry sawdust filler was needed to level out the joints.

 

This is a good reminder to make sure I do not cut the frame pieces to the line.  Get it all glued up the do some pre-fairing and leave the main fairing until all the frames are securely in place.

[garyshipwright]

Hi Peter. Your work is looking outstanding but have a question. You mention that your waiting for some copper foil to put between the keel and false keel. Can you tell me where you found this bit of infomation. Don't think I have come across it. Thank you good sir and will be watching your build come to life. Gary

[allanyed]

Hi Gary.   Go to the subject below.   As it turns out it there was a typo on my part when transcribing the Euryalus contract as you and I recently discussed separately.  

 

modelshipworld.com/topic/33732-tuning-copper-sheathing

 

Allan

 

[garyshipwright]

Hi Allan, was just a little bit lost. Had to go back and look in your book Vol 1. Makes sense after reading what you wrote.  Thanks. Gary 

[Peter6172]

Glue up of keel and stern assembly.  12mm coper foil added between the keel and false keel using self adhesive one side and super glue the other.  I will carefully lift the assembly once the wood glue has dried and drill and pin using bamboo dowel between the false keel and the keel then drill and pin (copper wire pins) the keel scarfs and the stem pieces.

 

 

[Peter6172]

I have to admit that the rising woods are not easy to keep neat and tidy.  It may be the cut of wood I am using but I seem to loose some corners on the webs.

 

Perhaps the Cherry is a little dry and brittle? or I am just being a little clumsy....

 

 

[Peter6172]

A little more headway on EURYALUS this weekend.  While waiting for the rising wood assembly to glue to the keel, I decided to go off course a little and steered toward making the rudder.

Nothing unusually difficult in this and a nice mixed wood/brass component.  Tapering the rudder stock was done with a nice wooden 1/2" finger plane.  I also chose to bevel 60º rather than round the edge adjoining the stern post.

I have the brass straps all made and dry fitted; just need to silver solder in the pintels, then drill for nails, clean and blacken the brainwork before final assembly.  I still have the four head straps to make up 

[mtaylor]

Check the sharpness of your blade.  Other points would be feed speed and blade speed.   Not all saws have a variable blade speed though.

[Peter6172]

1 hour ago, mtaylor said:

Check the sharpness of your blade.  Other points would be feed speed and blade speed.   Not all saws have a variable blade speed though.

Mark.  It's a handrolic Zona razor saw.  Goes as fast as my hands can push it.  

[Peter6172]

Work on the rudder has stalled.  I did not have enough Brass strip nor the right size of rod and tube for the gudgeon pins and pintals.

Fashion pieces installed and the whole stern section given its preliminary fairing inside and out.  Fashion pieces are still a little oversize so they can be "blended" into the rest of the frames as the go in.  I have also used a little filler to help fair the joints (where tenons/mortices did not match tightly) or the beading line joint did not match.  Have learned that I need to cut the fill frames closer to their faired shape before glueing in so I can fully see the joins.

I have started on the other can't frames.  F31A sections  is being glued up with their joining chocks as we speak.  Frames 31F, 30A/F and 29A/F are templated and ready to scroll saw out.

The position of the can't frames on the deadwood have also been marked out in pencil.

Edited January 28, 2023 by Peter6172

[Peter6172]

A day spent template ing and cutting framing pieces.....

I have made up half of F30A when I realised that F31A was the aft can't frame....  

I am leaving the frames a little oversized (not cut nor faired to the line) so I have wiggle room for fairing.

I have ordered up timber and threaded rods to make up the reference line board to support the frames as I proceed forward.   Should pick up the bits tomorrow and spend the day cutting out the support board, lining it up on the building board then drill the support holes.  Getting the plan on the reference board aligned with the building board will be undertaken before drilling the supports.  More on that tomorrow.

[Peter6172]

Inclement weather today made making up the reference board impossible (not something I can do inside the apartment).  So I cut out all of yesterdays frames, sanded them up and them started on the Keelson components.

Keelsons sections #2, 3, 4 and 6 are all but finished and #6 fitted up to the aft deadwoods and Steronsom Knee (only dry fitted until all the frames are made and installed).  

Keelson sections #1 and 5 are templated, just need scoring and fitting up to the other sections.

Edited January 30, 2023 by Peter6172

[Wintergreen]

Yep, all those frame pieces looked to be a chore for a rainy day 😉 

Nice little library you've got there to. I guess Mr Underhills books are found in nearly all serious model boat builders library (I have them too) 😄 

Keep it up!

[druxey]

Just catching up on your work, Peter. Nice and crisp!

[bdgiantman2]

I have that same Dremel Scroll-saw. A good tool to have in this trade

[Peter6172]

On 1/30/2023 at 9:35 PM, Wintergreen said:

Yep, all those frame pieces looked to be a chore for a rainy day 😉 

Nice little library you've got there to. I guess Mr Underhills books are found in nearly all serious model boat builders library (I have them too) 😄 

Keep it up!

Yes, I I still have 120 more frames to print templates and then cut and stick to timber then cut out the 600ish parts.........  These ships are long term projects.

The books you see are only one shelf.  I have found that UNderhills, Pettersons and Lees books are a must.  Although Underhills seem dated, they are as valid to todays modeller as they were when he wrote them.

[Peter6172]

1 hour ago, bdgiantman2 said:

I have that same Dremel Scroll-saw. A good tool to have in this trade

I like the Dremel because of its small size.  I am not sure however if it will last the project but blades are still readily available.  At 75db its not too noisey (though it is the noisiest kit I have in the "workshop").

I get through about 30-40 cut pieces before the blades part.  I think that's more to do with heat and fatigue as the blade dulls in the Cherry.  I have 15 spares at present so that should keep me going for a while.