EURYALUS 1803 by Peter6172 - 1:48

[Peter6172]

What a bummer.  Glued the plans to the reference board and got ready to cut out the profile when I found out I no longer owned a jigsaw.  I must have donated it before my move east from Western Australia to Canberra......  

I have a small B&D jigsaw on the way so the Reference board will have to wait a little longer

Well in the meantime I finished the Keelsons and fitted them up with the Stemson and Sternsom knee so all is ready to fit after framing is done.

For those wondering (if any) what hand tools I have been using for the Rising Woods and Keelsons, refer attached photo.  I score the lines of the template with a scalpel, including the cross timber lines before using the ultra fine razor saw to cut the depth.  I then chisel the notches with a 4mm chisel (sharpened to 35º) and finish up with a diamond file.   I use the chunkier square (which has a beveled "sharp" blade to check the notches are cut perpendicular to the sides of the embers using the "light behind the straightedge" technique.

 

[Peter6172]

Wow,  2 days and I managed to print and cut out all the aft frame templates and get about 1/5 onto timber ready to saw.  

I guess this is the tedious part of fully framed model ships... that and trying to peal off the backing on the self adhesive label material.....

Next job is to sort the templates into the appropriate material thickness piles before working out the best way to fit on the Cherry material.

Edited February 2, 2023 by Peter6172

[gjdale]

Peter - just a thought on the use of the sticky label paper. If you cover your timber with painter's masking tape first, it will be much easier to remove the labels after cutting out - and no sticky residue to clean up.

[Jaager]

On 1/19/2023 at 8:28 PM, Peter6172 said:

I have to admit that the rising woods are not easy to keep neat and tidy.

You could always lower the river instead of raising the bridge.  What I mean is seat the floors on the keel and fit small individual fillers between them on top of the keel.

The cross chock can sit on the keel also.  The piece between then becomes deadwood.   Since a model does not need to have water being able to communicate P to S, 

 

I prefer to have the deadwood fill the entire space between the top of the keel and the bottom of the keelson.   The deadwood can be dyed black.   I believe that in some vessels there was a one inch gap for the water and the rest of the space had chocks.  It would look like continuous deadwood.  This sort of detail was something that the shipwrights would do without it being on the plan.  There were other chocks between the frames all the way to the sheer.  Again, not something a designer would need to draw.

[allanyed]

10 hours ago, Peter6172 said:

that and trying to peal off the backing on the self adhesive label material...

I usually use a stiff back razor and it goes quickly.   I never tried any solvent but I suppose one of us should try a test piece and use acetone or alcohol or some other solvent to see how that works out.    Grant's idea sure seems to have merit as well.  I would try Scotch tape or similar as it is smoother than masking tape and even easier to remove without residue.

Allan

[druxey]

I've always used rubber cement for this. The paper will peel off easily and the remains of the cement can be removed using a rubber cement eraser (it is crêpe rubber).

[allanyed]

I just found this on the internet.   I like the first material but would not waste the second suggestion on labels

 

Rubbing Alcohol or Vodka

If you want to know how to get sticker residue off plastic, wood, or glass, rubbing alcohol is an effective solvent that's safe for most surfaces. Vodka is a good substitute. Wet a paper towel or clean rag with rubbing alcohol, and rub the residue to lift it off. For stubborn stickers, lay an alcohol-soaked rag on the area, and let it sit for several minutes to soften the residue. Use the rag to rub off what's left behind.

[Peter6172]

I finally managed to get all the templates for the aft section of EURALUS peeled and stuck to the appropriate thickness cherry planks. I have also managed to get the reference board cut, drilled and mounted to the building board. Some weeks to do at each end is all that remains but I can get onto frame assembly and dry fitting to the keel now.

[Wintergreen]

I can't see how many pieces there are but it is a sizeable puzzle you've got your self into 😲

Keep it up!

[Peter6172]

Ok so framing is moving along at about 1 frame station a day. I think this will pick up as I'm working on the aft can't frames at present with F31A glued in a F31F ready to bevel the deadwood join. The chocks are a little more complicated then I originally thought as the bevel on the forward face differs to that on the aft face so a lot of careful fitting up with files is need to get the right fit.
 

[Mic_Nao]

Hello,

 

If it was easy, it would be less fun 🤣

 

[Wintergreen]

45 minutes ago, Mic_Nao said:

If it was easy, it would be less fun

Indeed, and also, we wouldn't feel so special 😁

At work we tag it to our salaries, if it was easy - they wouldn't pay us 😄 

 

Keep it up, Peter!

[gjdale]

Nice work so far Peter.

[allanyed]

5 hours ago, Peter6172 said:

as the bevel on the forward face differs to that on the aft face so a lot of careful fitting up with files

You are absolutely correct about this.  I do find that SHARP chisels make short work of the bevel on the futtocks and chocks compared to using files.  Of course, in the end, whatever works for you is the way to go.  There are 8 pages of text and drawings on making these joints that are EXTREMELY helpful in volume I of The Fully Framed Model by David Antscherl.

Allan

Edited February 7, 2023 by allanyed

[Peter6172]

11 hours ago, allanyed said:

You are absolutely correct about this.  I do find that SHARP chisels make short work of the bevel on the futtocks and chocks compared to using files.  Of course, in the end, whatever works for you is the way to go.  There are 8 pages of text and drawings on making these joints that are EXTREMELY helpful in volume I of The Fully Framed Model by David Antscherl.

Allan

Allan,  I have been making do with a 4mm chisel but I think I might have to invest in a 1/4" to make sure the chisel cuts are flat across the face of these bevels.  That's why I'm using the 8mm diamond tapered flat file.

I have David A's books so I will have to tae a break and read them....

[Peter6172]

Thanks to Allan's suggestion, frame construction has speeded up to three frames per day.  I had a 3/4" chisel in the locker in the apartment garage.  I brought it up and sharpened it and it works ok.  I need to work on the blade though as its not a clean edge (from past misuse?).

I have finished installing Fashion Piece, 31A, 31F, 30A, and 30F with frames 29A, 29F and 28A assembled and waiting for treenails then installation.  Frames 28F, 27A and 27F are cut out and waiting for chocks and glue-up.  I also have frame components for frame stations 26, 25, 24, 23, 22, 21 and 20 cut and ready to go.

Had one disaster with 29F port side.  The 3rd futtock foot snapped when I was preparing it for the chock.  This was the second frame where I was to use an original component from Russel's build but alas I realised it was just too close to the line for me to use and have some wiggle room for fairing.  If I had to make one replacement component on that frame, I might as well make both futtocks.

 

Oh yes, the bow piece has been tapered and given a coat of shellack (foreground).  The rude too has been completed (timber wise anyway) and give a coat of shellack and a Tasmanian Oak tiller shaped and dry fitted (background).

Edited February 9, 2023 by Peter6172

[allanyed]

14 hours ago, Peter6172 said:

I need to work on the blade though as its not a clean edge (from past misuse?).

Hi Peter,

Glad I was able to give a little help.

 

I have been using the Veritas Mark II Standard Honing Guide for years with a Japanese wet stone that has two grits.  I am guessing many folks have gone to ceramic stones in recent years, so there are a lot of choices.  Regarding the Veritas set up, I assume there are other brands with similar designs, but this one has been great for me. 

 

IF the edge is in really bad shape with a chip or similar issue I would take it to a professional for the first grinding and sharpening then use the Veritas for maintaining the edge.   I do strop with a piece of leather at times and can literally shave hair off my arm after it is honed.  Of course a chisel with good quality steel is a key factor.

 

Cheers

Allan

[Peter6172]

Ah,  Disaster.

Realised I was aligning the foot of the frames at the deadwood to the wrong frame line (1/2 frame out).  It appears I failed to taper both sides the foot of frames at Station 31A&F and 30A&F on the starboard side.  I managed to remove 30A and 30F with little damage the foot of the frames or the deadwood thanks to a very sharp thin blade and the fact the glue had not full cured.  

I am in the process of cleaning up the feet to the right taper on both sides and then check the alignment at the deadwood as well as the reference line.  

 

Lesson:

Need to work out a sequence to make sure all the parts are cut, assembled with chocks, tree nailed, pre-faired then tapered before removing the template and cleaning up the frame for installation.  I recall that Talley Ho had one of those check off boards on the wall of the workshop to make sure all the frames went through all the stages of preparation prior to installation.

 

[Mic_Nao]

Hi Peter,

 

Good lesson that we too often forget.

[Peter6172]

Well I am back to where I left off before discovering the issue with the starboard can't frames.  I have done some further fairing by hand held sandpaper to see that the alignment is true on the inside.  If it's right on the inside, the small extra on the outside should fair in nicely.  I picked up the issue when I noticed that Frames 30A and 30F albeit correctly aligned on the reference board, were not vertical as they rose above the reference board.  The way I have the building board position, I get a perfect view of the port frames but only a side on view of the starboard frames so I will need to move the trolley out into more open space when fitting the frames to get a better view from all angles.

[Peter6172]

So, all the aft cant frames are fabricated; some still need pre-fairing and tree-nailing.  29F is being glued in so I should get to the straight frames by the weekend (touch wood)

Edited February 14, 2023 by Peter6172

[Peter6172]

Still have bunch of cant frames to install (now they are all made) but I wanted to test fit my first full frames (24A and 24F) to see their fit on the rising wood.  Nicely surprised to see them slot in with a little push.  They are all clamped in against the deadwood to make sure that their alignment is true at the keel and reference board.

[Peter6172]

Have completed installing Port side aft cant frames. Just need to install the starboard 27A & F, 26A & F and 25 today then 24A & F full frames (shown dry fitted) and I will stop to do some internal and external fairing to make sure I am still on the right path.
The first of the Bollard Pieces and been made and dry fitted to the stem.
 

[druxey]

Coming along and looking good, Peter.

[Peter6172]

Ahhhh.

 

Next disaster.

In a rush to install cant frames 27A/F and 26A/F the clamp holding the heels to the deadwood was applied too harshly and the frames slid up the deadwood overnight.  

Things looked a little off this morning when I checked the reference marks and the tops of the frames relative to their Port counterparts.  2mm appeared at the beading line so off came the frames.  thee were damaged in removal so three new frames have to be made.

 

Lesson:  Take your time and make sure the timbers you clamp are clamped in a way that they cannot move out of alignment as glue can be a good lubricant at the timber/timber interface.

[garyshipwright]

Hi Peter. When I installed Alfred's cant frames , along with clamps and glue I also pined them in place. Once they was good and dry the pin's were removed and tree nail's were installed. Helped keep every thing good and tight. Nice build so far. Gary

[Peter6172]

So all the aft cant frames are in as well as the first full frames 24a and 24f.  I have also dry fitted 23a as well as Keelson 6 and the sternum knee to see how things are progressing.  Some minor fitting to be done between 23a, 24f and the keelson to neatly fit the taper.

I have also done a preliminary fairing of the frames from transom to 24f and all looks well so far.

I am now turning my attention to the bow with the bollard and hawse pieces to be scrolled out today as well as frames Va and Vf.

[Peter6172]

Having some difficulties with the Bollard and Hawse pieces.  

I templated and cut them out but after shaping one side, I think I have misinterpreted the drawings as they don't go together correctly.   I think I know where I went wrong but have sort guidance from Allan and Wayne to set me right.  

 

 

[Peter6172]

Issues with my Bollard and Hawse pieces resolved.  I misinterpreted the plans by making assumptions about how they were shaped based on how the frames were made:  i.e. fwd/aft faces flat, athwartship faces tapered.  The Bollard/Hawse pieces are fwd/aft tapered with athwartship flat.

STBD side done and ready for milling out the air slots and drilling hawse holes.  Frame Zf sits next to it waiting final fitting once the Bollard/Hawse pieces are assembled.

[Peter6172]

On 12/14/2022 at 12:19 PM, mtaylor said:

I moved it so should be good to go.

Mark.  It's come to my attention from other modellers here that perhaps you have relocated me to the wrong sub heading.  Perhaps my build log should be in the scracthbuilds of 1801 - 1850 section?