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Mary Rose by Baker - scale 1/50 - "Your Noblest Shippe"


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The name is now complete.

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And planking is done on both sides. Further planking at the stern is for later.
Now this part of the hull will first be further detailed (treenails, etc.)

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2 plywood bulkheads remain present, so the model can easily remain upside down for further finishing.

The strange piece of wood on the bow is just a temporary reinforcement so that the top part of the stem doesn't break off

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Thanks for following, comments and likes

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Patrick,

 

Been remiss not dropping by often enough to your current project - always a good visit 😄

 

Regards,

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Treenails... 

There have been many discussions here on the forum; Treenails, yes or no. 
For me: yes. It's a lot of work, but for me it adds value.
The idea is to add the treenails and then paint the hull with diluted Tamiya paints. This worked last time with toothpicks and ramin wood, but the cherry wood does not provide enough contrast. That is why I purchased walnut strips with a diameter of 1 mm, these provide sufficient contrast with the cherry wood to be able to paint over later.

 

There is not much information for the Mary Rose, only the diameter of the treenails. The frames also do not have an ordered structure to create a treenail diagram.
Therefore, back to the method on my previous model. This creates a schedule that has some structure. This will not match the real ship at all. but it looks good (to me).

 

The Mary Rose info, 

Further in the book it says :  We will investigate this further later...

My treenails are indeed 0.2mm too thick. But I couldn't find smaller strips in walnut and 1 mm drills are cheap here

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The frame diagram 

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Plan B

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The strips ordered on monday, delivered on teusday.

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There should be approximately 5500 to 6000 holes between the keel and the first wale. This work requires new tools 

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Drilling20231102_162619_1280.jpg.f73ee649421cc8cc11e9be1f16e58597.jpg

Adding the treenails (and my very first hammer, still in service)

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Work in progress

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  Simply awesome, those treenails.  Did you cut 1mm strips off he 1mm thick walnut stock, then pull through a die plate to make them round?

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

  Simply awesome, those treenails.  Did you cut 1mm strips off he 1mm thick walnut stock, then pull through a die plate to make them round?

Thanks, 

These are walnut wooden strips from amati 1 mm diameter.

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Walnut-Dowl-1mm-1WD1_0010.html#SID=470

 

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  "I see," said the blind man ... then he picked up his hammer and saw !    We were talking about dowels all along ... the term 'strips' had me confused, as I think of strips as varying widths of flat stock.  Dowels, of course, are round - and I'll have to get some of them.  Cool!

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

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8 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

"I see," said the blind man


the correct English name for these strips are indeed dowels.
So there is nothing wrong with your eyes 😇😎

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  • 2 weeks later...

Treenail update,

 

The weather forecast has been the same here for several weeks : rain and occasional showers...

So a lot of time to drill holes and add treenails...

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After all the treenails have been applied it is time to scrape and sand. Pieces of old Stanley knives are used for scraping.

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The original and the model (picture of the original is thanks to @firdajan)

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After sanding, the hull was cleaned with a wet cloth.

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The starboard side is ready. 

Wales still needs to be done, probably also with treenails, and bolts??.
I sent this question to the Mary Rose museum, but no response yet

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Thanks for following

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/19/2023 at 12:34 PM, ensor said:

Groeten uit Assenede👍

Not so far away from Verrebroek ;)

 

 

Small "two-week" update 
location the location of the holes, drilling the holes and hammering treenails : a slow but steady work in progress 

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1 hour ago, druxey said:

Good progress! Had you considered using a  drawplate for forming treenails?

Yes, but :

but I was a bit lazy.
If I have calculated correctly. I need at least 30 meters of treenail material, only for the hull ( one side was 15 meter) 

Edited by Baker
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  • 2 weeks later...

Patrick,

 

Yes your treenails look just perfect indeed. I put those on my buy list from Cornwall - great find!!

 

Regards,

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

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Looks great, Patrick.  Old romantic depictions of Sixteenth Century warships show them as fat and bluff bowed.  The actual lines recently developed from Nautical Archeology show them to be surprisingly fined lined.  Your Golden Hind and now your Mary Rose nicely captures the actual shape of these ships.

 

Roger

 

 

 

 

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@md1400cs

Thanks Michael 

But keep in mind that 1mm treenails for 1/50 scale is the limit.
Actually, they are already a bit too big for this scale

 

@Roger Pellett

Thanks Roger

The shape of the hull also surprised me.
I actually expected a plump hull. But the hull of this ship is indeed very elegantly built.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Last update of 2023 

 

The scarfs in the keel parts have treenails and the battens have been applied.
I'm not going to add any iron bolts or nails. All iron fasteners were caulced or shielded with wood (bolts in the keel) and are therefore invisible.

 

If the seams between the planks are too wide and caulcing will not stay in place. What are you doing then.. knock a batten over it, and case closed.
Personal view, I think it's a horrible sight.

 

Battens

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And on the model

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The hull has only been sanded with 120 grit, so it still needs some better sanding.
The next step is to install a deck and plank the stern.

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A happy 2024 to everyone

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interesting detail I've never seen before, looks kind of odd, were your gaps between those planks purposely created in that area of the hull for the battens and why?

Just love your work Patrick.

 

Michael D. 

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44 minutes ago, 72Nova said:

interesting detail I've never seen before, looks kind of odd, were your gaps between those planks purposely created in that area of the hull for the battens and why?

Just love your work Patrick.

 

Michael D. 

Thanks.

No. I had no gaps in my little planks.

But remember,  on the original ship  these planks were 10cm thick, 40 or 50 cm wide and meters long.

Not easy to handle and to adjust once placed on the ships hull.

So, if there is a gap between 2 planks under the waterline.

Nail a batten over the gap, once the ship is launched. Gap, batten....? Where???😇.

(My opinion 😉)

 

 

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That is an interesting detail.  They would also provide the additional advantage as working as small anti-roll hull strakes, thus helping to stabilise the vessel.

 

BTW, nice work on your hull, looks good even before your final sanding.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Planking of the stern.

 

First to do

The cannon deck will become almost completely invisible later, so I don't put much time and effort into it. The sides will be further finished later.

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To further plank the stern, I first need to determine where the cannon ports should be placed.  

And discovered that the stern was not completely symmetrical. Fortunately, I used PVA glue that can be loosened with isopropyl alcohol.

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Error corrected

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The lower stern planked and with the 2 cannon ports

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Low quality interior ;) 

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I first have to consider what the next steps on the model will be.
And, the hobby room urgently needs a makeover. As well as two bedrooms, the wife says....

 

 

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As always Patrick another awesome in progress build log 🍺

 

Cheers,

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

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@Rock_From_Korea @Louie da fly @md1400cs @Roger Pellett

 Thanks for the nice comments.

Mary was indeed 30 years old and had had a major refit. Maybe the original version didn't need these battens

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