HMS Revenge 1577 by GrandpaPhil - 1/64 - CARD - from Victory Models Plans

[GrandpaPhil]

The inner planking and shaping is done now:

I will clean it up a little bit, later on today, with a paint brush.

 

Then I will seal the model.

 

But first, I need to repair some of the upper beams, because I accidentally crushed them while sanding.

 

That is no big deal, I will add CA to the separated pieces of card to reinforce, and then keep rolling.

 

I have the most difficult part of my model done now.

 

Edited June 26, 2023 by GrandpaPhil

[GrandpaPhil]

And now it is time to make another round of parts:

I really wanted my keel in place prior to installing the wales.

 

I am going to install the lower wales prior to installing the second planking.

 

And, I was printing on paper anyway….so I decided to trace more pieces just to get them made and not waste the paper.

 

This methodology of making parts and assemblies in advance has been working really well for me so far.

[GrandpaPhil]

I traced a lot of pieces this time in the name of not wasting paper, like nearly half of the remaining pieces that would have been laser-cut in the kit version of this model:

Edited June 30, 2023 by GrandpaPhil

[Meriadoc Brandybuck]

So much energy to copy and cut out hundreds of parts in a day. What do you eat for breakfast?

 

-Meriadoc

[GrandpaPhil]

I eat my Wheaties every day, with a cup of black coffee, Lol.

 

In all seriousness, I glued down over 300 pieces on card for cutting out and laminating together, this time.

 

They will make 67 pieces when done.

 

I only needed my keel pieces and rudder, but I could only fit one of the prow pieces on a sheet of tracing paper, so I just filled in the rest.

 

On the positive side, I now have the majority of my deck fittings at least partially made, and all of my remaining beams.

 

I also have parts of my channels and some of my mast fittings now too.

I am six months into this build and project another 12 months.  But, with the guns and these, I am really far ahead on my fittings.

Edited July 1, 2023 by GrandpaPhil

[GrandpaPhil]

All 300+ parts are now at least rough cut out and ready for either finishing or laminating:

This encompasses many of my later fittings such as cross-trees, the belfry, mast caps, bitts, the heavy rigging parts, trim and my remaining deck beams.

 

I also have the interior lanterns ready to glue down and the transom pattern ready to go.

 

I still need to cut the pieces for the wales and mark those off on the hull.

 

Then it will be on to the second planking!

[GrandpaPhil]

The keel is on:

Working on the wales now.

[GrandpaPhil]

Wales are on:

The wales will be painted black in the near future IAW the Matthew Baker drawing prior to any more planking being laid down.

And the test fit of the final base looks really good.

 

I thought about using it for the Victory and then for the Mercury.

 

But, I’m not sure what I’m doing with either of those builds.

 

And it will look really good with the Revenge.

Edited July 2, 2023 by GrandpaPhil

[GrandpaPhil]

The pile O’ parts mostly ready to use continues to grow:

The pile O’ parts that need further processing continues to shrink:

[Glen McGuire]

Hope you don't have allergies, Phil.  I hate to think what a hard sneeze might do to your pile 'o parts!!  😃

[GrandpaPhil]

LOL!  Indeed my friend!

 

Here’s that pile of parts:

That was a lot.

 

Here is the transom piece:

It is nearly ready to install on the Revenge.

 

I copied the pattern that came with the plan set.

The lower wales are painted now and the hull is ready to take the transom once it dries for a bit and I trim the upper edges and the gunport.

 

I am going to step out of sequence again and install the middle wales prior to planking above the lower wales.

 

I like having my actual wales in place before second planking because it serves as a nice guide.

 

I have already made the middle wales themselves and just need to install them.

 

This model is supremely well designed.  

I am glad that I bought this plan set.

[GrandpaPhil]

Here is the planked transom:

[GrandpaPhil]

I ordered another model off my bucket list.

 

I have been wanting a Wasa for a while.

 

I thought about using the Sergal plans or the Corel plans.

 

However, the Wasa museum says that their hull shapes are wrong.

 

Orel’s research has been pretty good so far, plus the kit is published in the red color scheme.

 

So, I ordered the Orel card kit.

 

I will use it as a guide and basically rescale everything to 1/64 like my Revenge (I’m enjoying this model).

 

Then I’ll use the parts as patterns to make my own pieces and build from there.

[GrandpaPhil]

The second set of wales are on and the first ones are painted:

I suppose I should start laying down some second planking.

 

This planking won’t need “tar” between the planks, because the entire hull will be painted IAW the Matthew Baker drawing.

 

The only bare “wood” will be the deck planking.

 

That will look better in my personal opinion and provide some contrast.

 

The planks will be approximately 9/32” wide by 4 1/2” long to simulate 18” wide by 24’ long planks.

Edited July 8, 2023 by GrandpaPhil

[GrandpaPhil]

One pile O’ planking:

That should almost be enough planking to second plank up to the second wales.

[Thukydides]

How do you get that nice wood texture on the card? Did you mention it in a previous post?

 

In any case it is looking good.

Edited July 9, 2023 by Thukydides

[GrandpaPhil]

Thank you very much!

 

It is wood grain contact paper that is intended for cabinets.

 

It works quite well.

[GrandpaPhil]

Working on the second planking:

I am using actual drop planks and stealer planks for the first time ever.

 

Edited July 9, 2023 by GrandpaPhil

[GrandpaPhil]

The starboard side is second planked up to the middle wales:

There are still issues, but everything is going to be painted, so I will fill the gaps prior to sealing and painting.

Edited July 10, 2023 by GrandpaPhil

[GrandpaPhil]

It’s a really good thing that I am going to be painting the hull of this model.  
 

I am not the best planker in the world.

 

But, I know this, so I make up for it by ensuring that the hull will be well painted after I fill the gaps!

 

Truth be told, I like making my models look like giant wargaming miniatures.

 

I try to make them look as realistic and weather beaten as possible, so having to do some filling and painting is part and parcel to that goal.

 

I built up a Mamoli Endeavour once and left it bare wood.  Technically it came out just fine.  But, I hate that model.  It is my least favorite model that I have ever built.  It looks too sterile and commercial.

Edited July 16, 2023 by GrandpaPhil

[GrandpaPhil]

The port side is planked up to the middle wales:

Once all glue dries, I’ll trim everything that needs trimmed, fill all gaps, add the stern post and then seal and paint up to the middle wales.

 

Next, will be the rudder, to include the tiller.

 

After that I’ll outfit the gundeck and then seal it in with the main deck.

 

Due to the lack of visibility in the interior decks, I am not going to bother planking the inside of the bulwarks on the gundeck, I am just going to paint it.

Edited July 17, 2023 by GrandpaPhil

[GrandpaPhil]

The stern is trimmed and the stern post is installed:

The rudder is ready to paint:

I now have a hull to work with.

 

Getting to that point is the single most difficult part of building a model ship, for me.

 

Edited July 17, 2023 by GrandpaPhil

[Baker]

2 hours ago, GrandpaPhil said:

I now have a hull to work with.

 

Getting to that point is the single most difficult part of building a model ship, for me.

Indeed. Same story here.

Great work. 

 

[Louie da fly]

That wonderful sleek race-galleon shape is now becoming evident. Looking good.

 

Steven

[GrandpaPhil]

Thank you all very much for the comments, the likes and just for stopping by!

 

I am using the Matthew Baker drawing kindly provided by @Louie da fly for my basic color scheme:

To that effect, I primed black and painted in the lower hull:

The waterline is marked.

 

I have a waterline marker that I bought from Model Expo back in 2014 or 2017.

 

I replaced the pencil with a black colored pencil this time, and marked it directly on the paint.

 

It worked well.

 

Now to paint in the ochre strip between the two lower sets of wales.

 

Then to tape and paint the dark brown below the lower wales.

 

Lastly, I will touch up as needed.

[GrandpaPhil]

That yellow ochre will offset the black striping and the brown quite nicely once it is all in place:

It will be across the gun-ports, too.

[Javelin]

Looks very convincing already! Can't tell if it's card or wood, which means you're doing an excellent job. 

[GrandpaPhil]

Thank you very much!

 

The painting progresses:

And I’ve been working on the rudder:

I made the banding:

Now I just need to decide if all the banding is being painted black or the parts below the waterline will be painted white:

And because I do not like moving parts on a model, I glued the whipstaff in place:

Also, edge sealing when masking off for painting works really well for preventing bleed through.

 

And I discovered that most of my pieces are under thickness with my new calipers.

 

But, since this has been the same throughout the build, I am not worried about it.

[GrandpaPhil]

The base coat is done:

I am going to add a wash to the model with a strong tone wash from Army Painter.

 

That will add texture increase depth.

 

I am also going to paint the cradle a forest green so I can glue the hull to the cradle to simplify handling.

[GrandpaPhil]

I gave the hull a heavy patina:

I think I went a little overkill on the weathering and antiquing.

I should probably adjust the paint a bit, but I’m curious how this plays out.

 

It currently looks like I found it in an antique shop.