Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper

[EdT]

E&T,

 

I meant to respond to your last post earlier.  Enthralled is a good word.  Even when I started building I did not fully appreciate the strength built into these ships.  You are right, they were something else.  They have been sometimes mistakely labelled as lightly or cheaply built, but quite the opposite was true.  Hard pine aka longleaf pine, used for a lot of the structure, is sometimes confused with soft, lighter white pine, but is in fact about the same weight and about 90% as strong as white or English Oak.  Live Oak, which was used for a lot of the major structural elements, is about 150% the strength of White Oak.  Six inch filling planking is a bit hard to grasp.  I have some lengths of 4" x 6" Douglas fir in the shop and the thought of bending it frightens me.

 

Thanks for your comment.

 

Ed

[HIPEXEC]

Beautiful work!

[Mirabell61]

beautiful joining work Ed,

 

lovely built Clipper hull, a delight to watch this grow to its full pride...

 

Nils

[dgbot]

Same as above.  But you must have nerves of steel.  No nicks and everything neat and perfectly joined.

David B

Edited June 28, 2014 by dgbot

[rwiederrich]

Ed in part 72 image 5 it looks like some pencil *X*'s remaining on your ribs. I'm probably wrong, but it appears so.

 

FANTASTIC work.......Webb would be proud.

 

Rob

[rwiederrich]

I work at a shipyard and in the wood shop they have center cuts of hard pine and oak that are 16~20" square and 10~15 ft long. THAT is huge lumber and to think much of the keel and floor beams of these magnificent ships were made from such(or close to it) is a wonderment to say the least. I'm currently reading the fantastic book *Greyhounds Of the Sea*...and it chronologs some construction of these ships......impressive.

 

Fantastic job.

 

Rob

[EdT]

Thank you, all.  Rob, they are marked because they are going to be removed to open up the view ports.

[Erebus and Terror]

Excellent work as always, Ed. A POF build log is the only way to appreciate the construction of these ships. Thanks very much for sharing it with us all.

 

The fir/oak debate is very interesting. The Royal Navy fir/pine-built frigates often have a lesser reputation as well, but many of them proved to be just as durable as their oak counterparts. And I have a soft-spot for them, given that much of the "fir" timber came from Canada (mostly red pine).  

[rwiederrich]

Right Ed......Duh.......

 

I must have missed that.

 

Great job

[EdT]

E&T,

 

The use of terms like "fir" and "pine" leave much to the imagination.  Variations between species within these broad terms are considerable.  For example Douglas fir vs. the softer Balsam fir - or Longleaf (hard) pine vs. the softer much weaker Sugar pine.  In both cases the latter species is substantially weaker, while longleaf pine rivals white (like English) oak in strength, while Live Oak is 50% stronger than white.  So much for generic names.

 

Ed

[dgbot]

That is true.  My grandfathers house was built with was was called yelllow pine.  From what my brother in law said it was tough and wears like iron.  He bought he pace when gramps retired and while going through one of the out buildings found several 2X4s left over from all those years ago.  I salvaged them for his house in Raymond and the conrator offered to buy the stuff from him at a good price.  From what Ed said yelow pine was some of the best wood out there for constuction but now it is almost non existant.

David B

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 73 – Lower Deck continued

 

Work continues on the lower deck.  In the first picture a forward section of binding strake is being glued in place held by pins. 

 

 

These structural strakes were often let down on the beam by an inch or so, but because this depth is so small at this scale I did not score the beams and merely reduced the depth of the strake by an inch.  As with many details, Young America’s exact configuration is unknown.  The binding strakes are bolted into each beam and horizontally into the waterways. Inside these strakes were margin planking – wider planks that allow the ends of forward planking to be cut into them.  I will not be installing these on the deck – to leave the ends of the lodging knees visible from above.

 

In the next picture the next section of binfding strake is being installed.  Planking on the centerline is in progress.

 

 

 

This planking is 3 ½” thick.  I made these 7” wide.  These are required as bases for the middle deck pillars.  I have not yet decided if any planking beyond the two central strakes will be installed on this deck.  The next picture shows further work near the bow.

 

 

The fore hatchway is complete including its bolts.  Although not very visible due to sanding dust, the treenails and bolts for all this work have been installed.  Next is a picture of the port side forward.  There will be no ladder ways into the hold.  These would probably have been movable and taken up after the cargo was loaded – and before the hatches were sealed for the voyage.

 

 

This gives a pretty good idea of the forward view port.  The unplanked frames will be removed below the middle deck clamp down to the lower futtock heads – when I summon the courage to cut them out.

 

The next picture shows the port side aft.

 

 

The aft view port will only extend from the top of the lower deck clamp to the underside of the middle deck clamp.  Next are two pictures showing most of the hull at its current state – i.e. today.

 

 

 

 

Once the remaining bolts and treenails and the few remaining bits of binding strake and central planking are installed, I can move on the middle deck.

 

 

 Ed

[allanyed]

 Magnificent Ed,   Getting the planking to fit so tightly takes well cut planks to start and some pretty ingenious clamping and wedging methods.  As great as it she is, you are making it look too easy!  Any fine tuning you have encountered and care to share as you are progressing would be welcome.

 

Allan

[harvey1847]

 

As with many details, Young America’s exact configuration is unknown.

 

Well, certanly your work will keep us studing for a long time how the hek they were built... even future generations will be able to study How these beauties were built looking your 1:72 YA!!

 

Best wishes!

[SawdustDave]

A friend used to have a saying that comes to mind....."Stronger than train smoke!"

[EdT]

Thanks, everyone for the comments and all the "likes".

 

Allan, wedging seems to be the best way to tight joints if it can be done.  My wedges are usually cut "just-in-time" so they a pretty ad hoc.  It may be worth some thinking to develop a better set of wedging tools.  For example, they way they are cut sometimes leaves grain that doesn't allow easy wedging.  There is also the issue of too much space to allow wedging.  Often clamps are also needed to get the planks tight to the frames - especially true with the iron strapping.  As you say, sizing of planks - breadth and thickness is also important.  Its probably best to cut the fully supply of planks at the start so tools do not have to be reset when a new batch is needed.  Always lots of "process development" to do.

 

Ed

[Justin P.]

I know this will be a bit of a rookie question but I wonder if you wouldn't mind explaining what I'm looking at. In your pictures there among the great woodwork are what appear to be nail or bolt heads. Is that a strictly aesthetic thing, or is there really some hardware holding this together? It almost looks like it might be just pencil dots....

 

Again thanks...

[EdT]

maturin, you are welcome.

 

There are a variety of fastenings visible.  Some are dummies for show.  Some are functional and contribute to the strength of the model.  All are based on the type, sizes and locations on the original ship - but usually in lesser number.  The functional bolts are copper wire that is epoxied into the holes from both ends forming very strong joints.  Most of the lower hull structural work is fastened in this way - bilge ceiling, deck clamps, keel, keelson, etc. .  One reason for this is to add strength so when the view ports are cut out their will be no problems.  Many of the copper bolts get blackened before applying finish.  Some are left copper.  Black monofilament is used for many bolts, glued in with CA.  Treenails are bamboo, glued in with dark glue.  These and some of the monofilament may add some strength to glue joints.

 

Ed

[Justin P.]

maturin, you are welcome.

 

There are a variety of fastenings visible.  Some are dummies for show.  Some are functional and contribute to the strength of the model.  All are based on the type, sizes and locations on the original ship - but usually in lesser number.  The functional bolts are copper wire that is epoxied into the holes from both ends forming very strong joints.  Most of the lower hull structural work is fastened in this way - bilge ceiling, deck clamps, keel, keelson, etc. .  One reason for this is to add strength so when the view ports are cut out their will be no problems.  Many of the copper bolts get blackened before applying finish.  Some are left copper.  Black monofilament is used for many bolts, glued in with CA.  Treenails are bamboo, glued in with dark glue.  These and some of the monofilament may add some strength to glue joints.

 

Ed

 

Hi Ed, 

 

Thanks so much for the that.  I had gone back through and read over your posts from the past but was still unsure of what was going on.   The amount of detail here is amazing.  Drilling all those holes for one, then filling them...   amazing.    I look forward to see how this project develops, though well beyond my pay-grade Im sure Ill pick up a few things here or there that can be applied to my own endeavors.   Thanks for sharing. 

[SJSoane]

 

Hi Ed,

 

For the first time, I made a batch of small wedges. It was surprisingly fiddly, and I am sure I could have done it more efficiently. I ended up planing the angle on short lengths, and then cutting off individual wedges on the bandsaw. Perhaps a mill setup? But I had my mill set up for scarphs and did not want to break down the settings. I would look forward to your usual great ideas about how to manufacture tools, which includes wedges....

 

Mark

[EdT]

Mark, if your wedges are made as beautifully as your other tools, mine would be unrecognizable beside them.  I tend to cut mine on the fly - often after applying glue.  But the subjest warants some thought because they have many virtues as holding devices.  One of the things I was thinking about was opposed sets - to bridge wider spaces - also laid parallel to the planking.  Maybe a common angle for all, so they could be used interchangeably.   Hmmm.

 

Ed

[michael mott]

 

One of the things I was thinking about was opposed sets - to bridge wider spaces - also laid parallel to the planking.  Maybe a common angle for all, so they could be used interchangeably.   Hmmm.

Good morning Ed, Mark, I have used wedges a lot over the years and yes as you say Ed using them in opposition with equal angles works well and even with different angles it will work equally as well to fill an angled space. 

 

these wedges were made on the fly as well and are 1/4 inch square maple with the angle simply brute sanded on the disk sander.

 

 

Michael

Edited July 8, 2014 by michael mott

[SJSoane]

 

Hi Ed and Michael,

 

I think we have a wedge task force forming here. Here are my first efforts.

 

I threw away the first set because I did not have the grain in the same direction as the wedge, leading I am sure to the thin edges breaking off.

 

Round two, I could not think how to form the wedge on a long piece, from which I could cut individual pieces. So I ended up with the blank big enough for 4, and chiseled and planed the angle. Time consuming and imprecise.

 

Maybe mill the angle?

 

I look forward to brilliant and elegant ways to mass produce wedges from the two of you who are great tool-makers!

 

Mark

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

I assume that you guys are aware of carpenter shims (used for "wedging") in door/window installations, as well as other uses.

 

While too large as sold they could be adjusted as to size and you can pick them up in hardware/home improvement stores anywhere for about a buck a dozen.

 

Don't mean this to sound obnoxious or condescending just thought I'd mention it.

[the learner]

The wood is too soft, perhaps the plastic wedges modified. Mark I like your wedges! I pull pieces out of my scrap box some times cutting a bit off. I will not throw away the scrap until I have finished the model. 

Edited July 9, 2014 by the learner

[EdT]

Guy, your approach sounds like mine - out of the scrapbox, cut to fit the situation,then usually back into he box.

[the learner]

The scrap box gets used for more than just wedeges some times, well many times! 

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 74 – Middle Deck Parts

 

Posts to the log have not been as frequent because much of the work has been repetitive.  In the next phase – the middle deck – the work will be a virtual carbon copy of the lower deck.

 

Very little work remains to finish the lower deck – mainly treenailing and some deck planking.  While that is being completed, parts for the middle deck are being made.  In the first picture some sample turned pillars have been made to help me decide on the choice of woods for these.  Six dozen are required for the next two decks.

 

 

Turned pillars above the lower and middle decks were probably black locust – a favorite wood for that application – and for treenails.  The four options pictured are, left to right, Castelo, Cherry, Mahogany and Black Walnut.  I loved the color of the Honduras Mahogany but the pores are a bit distracting –same with the Walnut.  They could be filled but not on these small pieces – maybe for the upper deck rails.  So I decided on the cherry.  It is slightly darker than the pear I am using for oak members.

 

For the final versions of these a new lathe bit for the beads was required.  After quite a lot of fiddling with the shape and the depth of the cut the tool in the following picture was used.

 

 

The next picture shows the beads on a pillar being turned.

 

 

The piece is held in a self-centering four jaw Sherline chuck, running on my ancient Unimat SL.  The homemade brass adapter for the chuck can be seen in the lower left corner.  The cherry square is kept on center inside a close fitting brass sleeve in the tailstock chuck.  Cutting depth is set by the brass half sleeve stop slipped over the cross-feed rods – visible just below the cutting tool.   The beads are cut first and the piece removed so others can use the same setup.  That set up is then changed and the area between the beads turned in about the same way.

 

The next picture shows the first two dozen pillars in progress.

 

 

Deck beams were also made.  The picture below shows the middle deck set before cutting to length.

 

 

 The clamp template in the picture is used on a router table to impart the top of the beam curve – a recycled tool from Naiad – but with a different round up.  Once the curve is put on the top of a blank, the beam is parted off and run upside down through the thickness sander.  I have described this process on a few earlier posts and it is described in detail in Naiad Vol II.

 

Knees, knees, knees – about ten dozen are needed for the middle deck.  Below the pattern sheet for the starter set of hanging knees has been pasted to a pear blank about an inch thick.

 

 

After cutting out on the scroll saw the 12” thick knees will be sliced off.  The next picture shows the pieces after cutting to shape with some ripped to size.

 

 

 

The shape of these knees will need to be refined to fit each location – from about eight basic shapes. 

 

Finally, the out-of-date drawing on the shipway board was replaced with a new one with latest revisions - and is it clean!.  The picture below was taken before setting up the end supports – to give a good view of the stern hull lines.

 

 

 Ed

[SawdustDave]

Your amazing craftsmanship seems to be endless Ed. Learning something new here with each visit.

Dave

[alangr4]

Ed

 

Your industry and creativity knows no bounds.

 

A wonderful set of photos.

 

Alan