Worst Planking Job Ever

[rhephner]

I need some help. I'm working on Model Shipways Pinnace and it is turning into a planking disaster. This is the 5th ship I've planked, but all others I've been able to hide my sins with heavy sanding and paint jobs. This one I cannot. 

 

No matter what I do, I end up with the clinkered effect. I've tried a few different techniques, but I feel like I'm missing something fundamental. 

 

At this point, I'm about ready to throw the Pinnace in the trash and stick with plastic models. ☹️

[hornet]

Try to start tapering your planks from the bulkhead that starts to reduce in size( length measured with a tape measure - if that makes sense) you really should be tapering planks to around 50% of their width by the time they reach the bow. Also try not to twist or bend planks unnatural or against the grain. Best of luck, don’t give up. 

[druxey]

To begin with, read one (or more) of the pinned planking tutorials on this site. We've all been there!

 

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Planking primer.pdf

 

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Lining Off your hull for planking.pdf

 

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/NailPatternJig.pdf

 

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingfan.pdf

[Dr PR]

rhephner,

 

As you know, wood will bend, but it has a grain that tries to straighten it back to the original shape. To get it to curve around the shape of the hull you have to "retrain" it to the new shape. Virtually every tutorial about bending wood mentions water and heat. Some people just use water and clamp the wet wood into a form with the desired curvature. Eventually the wood will adapt to the curve - I'm not sure the water has anything to do with it.

 

Steaming wood to get it to bend is a very old technique. The heat is what does the work, and hot water or steam is used to convey the heat into the wood quickly.

 

You also need to taper the planks to compensate for the difference in distances around the large midships bulkheads/frames and the shorter bow and stern bulkheads.

 

The best way I have found for getting planks to form to the shape of the hull is to heat bend them on the hull. This gets all the correct curves and twists - you won't get this with an off-hull bending form.

 

I use an inexpensive ($35) quilting iron (Mini Iron II - Clover No. 9100) as a plank bending tool. I put the plank on the hull in approximately the position it should go. Then I wet the plank with water, using a paint brush. Then the bending iron is applied to turn the water to steam and heat the plank. Quite often a single pass along the plank is enough to get the desired bend. I usually give it three passes anyway, just to be sure. After heat forming the plank It will just lay on the hull with the correct shape without clamping. Then it is easy to glue in place. This is far and away the best way to bend planks that I have seen!

 

This link shows how I have been doing this:

 

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/37060-uss-cape-msi-2-by-dr-pr-148-inshore-minesweeper/?do=findComment&comment=1075263

[Ronald-V]

There are already some very good tips given above. What strikes me (at least it seems so in the pictures) is that the fairing of the bulkheads looks very minimal.

 

In addition of course the tapering of the planks and side bending will help really well with the clinkering effect.

The easiest way of side bending for was like the video below:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atXqH0GWLL8

 

 

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  'Fairing' (sanding angles to) the bulkheads, especially in the fore and aft areas, will help - bending a springy wire over the frames will show both high and low spots needing fairing.  Prying off what is there and re-planking is recommended at this stage, which is not too far gone.

 

  Using thinner planks to begin with (so the ones supplied can be cut in half lengthwise, if even by using a steel ruler and multiple cuts with an X-acto knife), as well as tapering the planks toward the ends will help greatly.

 

  Soaking the planks in warm water until soft will also help.  Then before gluing, going over the plank with a warm to hot iron will increase flexibility and drive odd excess water.  Use wood glue (like Titebond), and the glue will penetrate the mating surface of the damp plank and not affect the bond.