The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy

[jbshan]

Don't worry about me going off topic again.  I already removed about six posts of mine from a thread where the original question was not what the questioner wanted an answer to.

[Izzy Madd]

COFFEE STIRERS

 

I know we don't normally use them in the home but...

 

Namely the ones that are made of wood that's about 5mm wide and 1mm thick. While not the best quality timber they are just the right size for a nice bit of deck planking. Or any other such timber needs. And they are great for scraping unwanted glue from tight corners. But mostly as modellers consumable.

 

Does this one count Cap'n?

[Izzy Madd]

THREAD

 

Before you keel haul me Cap'n read on.

 

This may seem and my be needless to say. But we all use threads of differing thicknesses and colours. But I've only heard one side of the market mentioned. That of the 'cotton' thread. Now I also know we are trying to reproduce rigging etc. from way back when.

 

BUT there are exceptions to any rule. Firstly even home made ropes are restricted by the material used as to there strength. Well if you move from a lock stitch machine to an overlock machine you will find. dare I say it, polyester thread.

 

So what you say well poly thread is twenty times stronger at least. As it will cut through to the bone before snapping in your hands. Also, see below, it has a very marked resemblance to oakam. In that it is actually multiple threads loosely put together. So it can be thick if not stretched, see picture 1, the thread on the left is normal cotton thread, the piece in the middle is poly thread layed flat. And this shows how the separate threads can be allowed to open out.

 

 

The second picture is of the poly thread doing what the cotton could not do. That is under tension.

 

 

You can the thickness when stretched reduces dramatically and it decreases further when squashed.

 

 

And this is the poly thread with a quick strain test showing it being pulled as far as I dare as its holding my model together at the moment. But the gauge read over 500g. Or half a kilo. And no sign of snapping.

 

Just something that may not have caught your attention. Especially the strength. That is in the home. Cap'n

 

A quick update on this post

 

This shows the "fluffy" state better.

 

And the breaking strain is 1.2 kilos. More than enough to snap most model boats mast clean off and that's for a single length.

Edited May 2, 2015 by Izzy Madd

[Modeler12]

A word about needle threaders.

They are fine if the hole you want the line to go through is big enough. However, if you are using the tiny blocks for rigging the hole is just about the diameter of the line. That means it is impossible to pull the doubled line plus wire through. Rigging the blocks for a cannon is one example.

 

I have given up on needle threaders a long time ago. Instead I put a tiny drop of CA glue on the end of the line and smear it along for about 1/2 inch. It only takes ten seconds or so and you can clip the stiff end of the line at an angle to give it some body and a point. It should slip right through.

[Modeler12]

Furthermore, a word about 'strain' and 'stress' and 'force'.

Even on Saturn strain is not measured with a force gage. Strain (in engineering terms) is a measure of the deformation or elongation of a material when a force is applied.

 

Material don't break because of 'too much strain', they break when to much force is applied and the maximum stress level is exceeded. Stress being force divided by the cross sectional area of that part.

 

People will break down under too much stress (not strain). Strain is simply the result of too much stress. It leads to wrinkles and other permanent markings.

I know this is boring but I am sure any engineer will cringe when those three terms are always mixed up.

[capnharv2]

I'm straining under too much stress, and I'm getting wrinkles and permanent markings!

(or, maybe it's 'cause I'm getting older. . .)

 

 

Harvey

[Canute]

Harvey, you suffer from a case of TMB; that is, Too Many Birthdays!

[Izzy Madd]

Furthermore, a word about 'strain' and 'stress' and 'force'.Even on Saturn strain is not measured with a force gage. Strain (in engineering terms) is a measure of the deformation or elongation of a material when a force is applied.Material don't break because of 'too much strain', they break when to much force is applied and the maximum stress level is exceeded. Stress being force divided by the cross sectional area of that part.People will break down under too much stress (not strain). Strain is simply the result of too much stress. It leads to wrinkles and other permanent markings.I know this is boring but I am sure any engineer will cringe when those three terms are always mixed up.

As it seems most engineers live in another world. On here and else where.

 

In the real world things like strain force newtons mass volume etc still exist they tend to have much the same definitive meaning as "average" does. But no one is.... Enough to bother asking is that mean, median or mode. They accept the info and adjust according to there own knowledge. So I would suggest putting your book of Phyisics 101 down. And do like the rest of do and either use or don't use the info your choice. As is the words I'll use to describe the force required to complete a destructive ad hoc test to demonstrate in real world terms.

 

And if someone using terms incorrectly then try suffering from a chronic lack of inter human discourse.

 

And I guarantee you get at least one word wrong as its always used incorrectly. But you are more than able to cope. As are we all when some one misuses a word. But with a subject as complex and with so many unique words. I'd have thought the last place to be throw in stones was in this glass house. As I can think of several words which mean totally different thing to an engineer, compared to a sailor. But they don't make you cringe. Never mind the newbies who don't know either wording.

 

Such as is it a pulley, a block, a block and tackle, or a pulley block, the answer is yes it's all those and more. So if you don't like misused words don't join forums which will contain real people's wording and real world situations. Just go and work out the last digit in Pi.

Edited May 12, 2015 by Izzy Madd

[popeye2sea]

As it seems most engineers live in another world. On here and else where.

 

In the real world things like strain force newtons mass volume etc still exist they tend to have much the same definitive meaning as "average" does. But no one is.... Enough to bother asking is that mean, median or mode. They accept the info and adjust according to there own knowledge. So I would suggest putting your book of Phyisics 101 down. And do like the rest of do and either use or don't use the info your choice. As is the words I'll use to describe the force required to complete a destructive ad hoc test to demonstrate in real world terms.

 

There be a lot of fancy words used there...  we're not but humble pirates.

[Izzy Madd]

There be a lot of fancy words used there...  we're not but humble pirates.

This is the point I was trying to make. While maybe the terms I used were not scientifically correct the basic knowledge was there for all to read and understand. Without having to get the dictionary out.

 

As the saying goes KISS. That's "Keep It Stupidly Simple"

 

If some thing was falling at terminal velocity. Most normal people would say something like "that's moving fast" not "that must be close to its terminal velocity"

 

But both mean the same in the world of bit, bobs and boats especially when in a shed.

 

Well said Popey2Sea.

[Izzy Madd]

COTTON BUDS/Q TIPS

 

To save too much confusion. These

 

 

For hygiene reasons this is more a instead of use rather than a recycling.

 

These buds if they are the cheap variety have smooth or ridged sticks. These stick are hollow and measure abou 1.5mm OD.

 

So if cut with a sharp blade into very short pieces make good Parral beads.

 

These

 

Or pulley wheels. Or if they are the ridged kind cogs.

 

Hope this helps.

[twintrow]

I think KISS is actually "Keep it simple stupid"!......I can recall hearing it daily while working as an engineer at the Cape in the 60s.

 

 

 

 

Tom

[Izzy Madd]

I think KISS is actually "Keep it simple stupid"!......I can recall hearing it daily while working as an engineer at the Cape in the 60s.

 

 

 

 

Tom

It is but as the responses were getting a little edgy I thought I'd play it safe and not infer that the other party was stupid. Just in case they live near me

 

But well spotted

Edited May 29, 2015 by Izzy Madd

[CaptainSteve]

TOOTHPICKS … YET ANOTHER USAGE

(The following has been supplied with permission by MSW member, Izzy Madd.)

 

As detailed below, Izzy creates a three-sheave cats-head by building up thin layers of wood, and using a toothpick for the pulleys.

 

This idea can be easily modified to suit any scale whatsoever, just trim strips to size …

 

In this example, 1/32nd inch thickness strips (I believe) were used to make a finished catshead of just over ¼” inch total.

 

Every second layer is cut to create the openings in the sheave …

 

Using a pin-vise (or drill-press, or heck, a hammer-drill if so desired) drill a hole through the staggered layers …

 

Next, trim a piece from a toothpick to create the axle …

 

Insert the toothpick piece, add the final veneer/cap-piece, sand to clean-up (or pop into your sanding drum) and you have your own perfectly-formed sheave …

 

[Izzy Madd]

TOOTHPICKS … YET ANOTHER USAGE

 

(The following has been supplied with permission by MSW member, Izzy Madd.)

 

As detailed below, Izzy creates a three-sheave cats-head by building up thin layers of wood, and using a toothpick for the pulleys.

Izzy1.jpg

 

This idea can be easily modified to suit any scale whatsoever, just trim strips to size …

Izzy2.jpg

 

In this example, 1/32nd inch thickness strips (I believe) were used to make a finished catshead of just over ¼” inch total.

Izzy3.jpgIzzy4.jpgIzzy5.jpg

 

Every second layer is cut to create the openings in the sheave …

Izzy6.jpgIzzy7.jpgIzzy8.jpg

 

Using a pin-vise (or drill-press, or heck, a hammer-drill if so desired) drill a hole through the staggered layers …

Izzy9.jpgIzzy10.jpgIzzy11.jpg

 

Next, trim a piece from a toothpick to create the axle …

Izzy12.jpgIzzy13.jpgIzzy14.jpgIzzy15.jpg

 

Insert the toothpick piece, add the final veneer/cap-piece, sand to clean-up (or pop into your sanding drum) and you have your own perfectly-formed sheave …

http://modelshipworld.com/public/style_images/Spectrum/attachicon.gif Izzy16.jpg

If the pin is adjusted to the desired scale then this can also be used to create very effective blocks. Also the wood used were 1.5mm x 5mm wooden drink stirers. No criticism of the Cap'n. Just enabling you to have the full facts

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

G'day Izzy

Bloody marvellous idea. I'm going to use that method very soon, thanks a million!

Cheers

Greg

[NenadM]

FOLDER MECHANISM - part 5

 

Sheaves again, but this time - sheaves inside Cat-head

 

Dimensions of Cat 30 x 3,5 x 3,5 mm. Dimension of openings - 0,5 mm x 3 mm

 

Folder metal strip is almost same thickness as veneer used for layers

 

 

Round corner with dremell to circle shape

 

 

Mounting (glue) inside Cat. If shevaes need to be movable, you can try to add some kind of axle throught center without glue. In this scale, and on my model, there are no ropes, so I didn`t do this ( to much small and complicated)

 

 

After sanding, metal sheaves appears

 

 

 

And final result after putty, fine sanding with 400 granulation and painting

 

 

Still left to add metal fittings, but cathead body with sheaves is done

Edited June 4, 2015 by Nenad

[CaptainSteve]

MAP PINS - Navigation Lights/Lanterns

 

Yet another idea lifted, with permission, from the twisted mind of MSW member, Izzy Madd ...

 

And today's top tip for those like me who are fiscally challenged or even just mean.
Wondering what to use as ships navigation light.

Well here's my answer.

The cheapest map pins you can get and I do mean cheap. 99p for 250 in red, green, yellow, and blue. The cheapest because they fall apart and they use less dye so they are translucent. As apposed to solid coloured.and even if you need to trim them to fit like this.

Worry not as even if you have turned or sanded them to fit a simple rub with your favourite brass or car cleaner will restore the clear plastic even bi carb or tooth paste. Basically anything that is designed or used to polish will do.

 

The pins are approx 10mm tall. But, as Izzy shows, they can be cut or chopped to size.

 

FOOTNOTE:
Just in case SaltySeaDog or the Squirrel Whisperer is reading this, here's something to aim for ...

Edited June 7, 2015 by CaptainSteve

[Landlocked123]

Hi All,

 

I'm not sure if this is exactly appropriate, but recently I received a few boxes of alcohol wipes from a relative who, shall we say, no longer needed them.

 

I find my self using them constantly to clean painted surfaces with smudge marks or finger prints, or on tools which got a bit of glue on them (especially Titebond and the like). For that matter, I use them to clean up anything. They don't seem to affect any of the surfaces I've used them on.

 

 

I got them for free, but checked and they are available for about 5 bucks for 200.

 

Best,

John

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

Hi John

I use no named baby wipes from my supermarket. It's cheap and works great.

Greg

[Landlocked123]

Hi Greg,

 

I'm with you on the no name baby wipes. My only concern is that they contain soaps and fragrances and I don't know what else. I like nothing but alcohol which evaporates almost immediately.

 

Best,

John

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

G'day John

The type I get has no fragrances nor soap. I've been using them for about 2 years on both non treated timber and varnished timber, and there are no problems. I can paint etc over it and there is no difference.

Havagooday

Greg

[James Pitt]

gezz what a load of knowledge.........and I thought I was smart(for about 10 minutes)........please let me add two things.......whenever I get something at a big box store I save the Styrofoam.....it can be shaped to make a great cradle for the hull and if you don't cut it down too far, it makes a handy place to stick your most often used tools.  #2......hard to find, but worth it..........older wine bottles had their corks wrapped in lead, this is really useful for mast banding and all sorts of small detail work

 

my .02 cents

 

james

[Izzy Madd]

gezz what a load of knowledge.........and I thought I was smart(for about 10 minutes)........please let me add two things.......whenever I get something at a big box store I save the Styrofoam.....it can be shaped to make a great cradle for the hull and if you don't cut it down too far, it makes a handy place to stick your most often used tools. #2......hard to find, but worth it..........older wine bottles had their corks wrapped in lead, this is really useful for mast banding and all sorts of small detail work

 

my .02 cents

 

james

As newer corks don't have this. Fly fishing suppliers sell a pack of self adhesive lead about 100mm x 50mm x 1mm for about £2.50. Looks great and sticks it's self. Good for roofs and such. as its already flat and cuts with scissors. Edited July 2, 2015 by Izzy Madd

[Izzy Madd]

COLA/WHITE VINEGAR

 

One extra if you prefer Cap'n I'll delete this but for now I'll post

 

if you are struggling to turn your bright steel black then drop it in some white vinegar works very quick at temps above 20c. Will even remove BZP. This turns them it dark and rust resistant. But due to natural variations may have a varied colour. Also they will be covered in brown sludge. Drop them in cola and the acid and colouring will clean them and stain them more even. All done in 24 hours. Then if you need a shine just rub between some coarse material I use a voil pouch takes about 20 seconds.

 

This is when I've just put these ball bearings in the vinegar

 

 

This is ten mins later. The gas bubbles ar hydrogen so be careful with flames.

 

 

This is 11 hours later. As can be seen by the clock. Also the scum in the jar.

 

 

And this is them straight out of the vinegar

 

 

Also don't throw away the vinegar. Filter it as it is now ferric acetone. And can be used to create instant jet black stain.

 

Thanks Cap'n

Edited July 2, 2015 by Izzy Madd

[Izzy Madd]

And to colour brass black without dangerous or expensive chemicals see my post on here titled BOILED EGGS. At least I think it's on here if not see my "Will" Everard log...

[Izzy Madd]

ATHLETE'S FOOT POWDER...

 

Sorry slight error for "bacteria" read fungus. Still has the same effect just me getting mixed up.

 

Yes that's right athlete's foot powder. Welcome to the weird world of my mind.

 

Ever bought a second hand kit or some second hand spares? Or even dug out some old spare of your own?

 

Only to discover they have an overpowering odour of damp and mildew. Well this is caused by bacteria. So kill the bacteria kill the odour. And athletes foot is a bacteria. Are you still with me on this.... Good. Place your odourous items usuall sail cloth and rigging thread. In a box. Doesn't need to be air tight just to make it easier. Then give a light sprinkling of powder. MAKE SURE ITEMS ARE 100% DRY. Place the lid on and shake. Leave for an hour or more. Take out. Shake out the excess dust. That's why no moisture. And no smell. Also works on feet I believe...

Edited July 2, 2015 by Izzy Madd

[Izzy Madd]

G'day John

The type I get has no fragrances nor soap. I've been using them for about 2 years on both non treated timber and varnished timber, and there are no problems. I can paint etc over it and there is no difference.

Havagooday

Greg

I just use neat Detol. As it doesn't hurt the metal or the plastic and contains alcohol and caustic soda. So removes grease and dirt great. And smells nice as well

[mattsayers148]

SPENT STEEL SHOT FROM SHOT-BLASTING

 

Endless uses.

 

GRAPESHOT

 

 

First off is find a tube, I used brass, that matches the bore size of desired cannon and cut to length of shot. Apply wax to the inside of the tube with an object that slides snug inside the tube(I used brass again).

 

Carefully select desired size shot and drop them loosely into the tube. DO NOT pack, lightly drop. It works best if at least 3 or more pieces can lay flat, side by side inside the tube.

 

Once the tube is filled, carefully drop a tiny bit of thin CA on top of the shot, let it sit for a couple of seconds, and then use the smaller tube to push out the mold.

 

Let the pieces dry hard, lightly file both ends and glue to a thin piece of wood with CA. Once dry, glue another piece to the other end the same way. Apply CA to the backside of the wood pieces and let dry hard.

 

Now the fun part. Sand or file the wood to match the bore diameter and thin the wood at the ends. Avoid sanding or scraping the shots because the dried CA will go white and look bad.

 

Carefully pick off any dried, white bits of CA. Use a dab of wax, or the sweat off your forehead at this point, and softly roll on the palm of your hand to remove any left over white flakes of CA. Continuing doing this until you achieve the desired amount.

The most important part, wax inside the tube and the push rod! If you don't, it may be stuck there for good. Most likely a few get botched and it also creates build up inside the tube. So if you want 6, make 12. If you're lucky more than six will turn out well.

[CaptainSteve]

HEAT-SHRINK TUBING TO MAKE IRON ANCHOR BANDS

 

The following has been lifted, with permission, from Blue Ensign’s HMS Pegasus log …

 

I had originally fitted 1mm brass bands formed from fret and chemically blackened. This was ok but there is always that annoying join beneath the stock which is difficult to completely close. Back in 2013, fellow member mel-drew alerted me to the use of heat shrink tubing to represent the bands, and I did a rough trial at that time.

 

I have now revisited the bands and replaced the brass fret with the tubing. This has several advantages; there is no join,  the heat shrink holds them tightly in place, and the blackening doesn't rub off when handled. Although rubber they have a dull metal look to them.

 

The knack to forming the bands is to press really firmly down on the flattened tubing using a steel rule and cut with one stroke using a scalpel. Might take a few goes to get a set of matching bands, but you get a lot of bands from one length of tubing.

[END QUOTE]

 

NOTE: Like the vast majority of master ship-modellers here on MSW, BE has detailed many, many useful hints, tips and tricks throughout his log. CaptainSteve whole-heartedly endorses spending a few hours reading through this log.

Edited August 19, 2015 by CaptainSteve