HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build

[Beef Wellington]

So this is my third attempt which may pass muster, thinking its probably well worth the effort to work through this although it does feel a little like jumping in at the deep end.  Made the collar and the end loops with false splices, and then served the collar in between.  Tried a few times to serve the eye but have not been successful yet!  However, as Alistair notes above its really not that visible at all so this is a corner I'll cut for now until I get more proficient.  GS Hypo glue worked really well as others have recommended.  Second photo is trial installation and I'll hold off until I've made the second collar.  Once these are installed I'll probably put some clear sealer in to help get rid of any fuzzies, but they're really only noticeable in the photos.  Hopefully I'll get better with experience.

 

Edited November 16, 2013 by Beef Wellington

[realworkingsailor]

That looks really good. I find sometimes it helps to mock up the collars with a bit of cut off light coloured line and a black fine tipped marker. For my double shroud collar, I managed it in one attempt by measuring like that first.

 

To serve the eye, first start by serving only about 8mm (for a 4 mm eye). Tie off the serving and form the eye, making the throat of the eye where the serving stops. Measure off the length of your collar and serve another 8mm. Make your second eye. Then serve the line between the eyes. I find it helps also to start your serving by tying to the short side of the eye and wrapping the throat. This will, not only, provide a smoother transition, but it will firmly lock the pseudo eye splice in place.

 

Andy

[hamilton]

The collar looks great! I tried serving mine on the Blandford, but it was far too small a scale to get it to look right, even with sewing thread. 

hamilton

[Beef Wellington]

Andy - cheers.  Funny, the method you describe with the light thread was exactly what I found worked best for me.  Its a good technique.  Didn't get a chance to try the eye serving yet for reason outlined below but will keep that in the toolbox.

 

Hamilton - your Blandford looks great regardless, doesn't detract in the slightest and you probably avoided a number of headaches.

 

Couple of progress pictures, doesn't look anywhere near as bad in person, camera definitely has it out for me today.  All collars made up and attached to the bowsprit, pretty crowded up there.  After experimenting with the authentic eyes and lashing for the bowsprit shroud deadeyes, I used a simple loop for the remainder which were made up by splicing the thicker line to correct size.  Don't think it makes much difference in look and its a bit tidier.  Splices were attempted to be hidden where possible under and seizing.  Sadly many more collars were hurt during this production but the practice was good, especially to get some practice serving.

 

Also started on the first bob stay following Lever's lead in his 'Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor' 

 

The obligatory question - there are a couple of spots where some spots of GS Hypo glue had gone astray, I've noticed that it can get white/flaky/stringy in some cases.  Is it advisable to 'paint' the line (with very dilute paint for example), or some other solution?

 

Edited November 18, 2013 by Beef Wellington

[Beef Wellington]

I just had a look at my AVS Jason. As the lashing is on the underside of the bowsprit it is impossible to see it without a dental mirror. You'd also need a magnifying glass and that is at 1:48 scale. Not that I didn't try to get it right but I wouldn't die in a ditch over it.

 

Alistair - if my rigging turns out half as good as yours I'll be ecstatic!  Your AVS is really stunning - everytime I see your rope work it confirms my desire to have a go with upgraded line for my next build (if it happens ), you really made it look special.  Sadly no Amati keel clamp, but muddling through so far (glad I didn't install the dolphin striker yet, guaranteed it wood be broken by now!)

Edited November 18, 2013 by Beef Wellington

[Sjors]

Wow Jason,

 

That looks great !

Can wait to see it all done !

 

[aliluke]

Jason - I reckon you are well on your way to exceeding my first go at rigging ten times. Your work looks great - perfect in fact. I don't know about Hypo glue but suggest a toothpick is the gentlest way to remove any excess glue. The toothpick doesn't sand or gouge but can remove stuff you don't want . I've found that little tidy ups are a constant and a constant battle. The further you get on in the build the more gentle you need to be with the fix.

 

That said - you are making a model that I'd aspire to. Brilliant work!

 

Cheers

Alistair

[Beef Wellington]

Sjors, Alistair and the 'likers' appreciate your continued interest and support.

 

Small progress update, finished rigging the bobstays and the bowsprit shrouds.  Boomkins made up but not glued yet as there was the potential to interfere with the bowsprit shroud.  These will be left off until later as they just seem too much of an accident waiting to happen.  Instructions indicate these should be made with 4mm dowel but even with tapering it looked far to thick so made up a set using 2mm dowel tapered slightly at the end which seems more consistent with pictures I've seen.

 

Edited November 22, 2013 by Beef Wellington

[aliluke]

As Capt. Haddock might say - "Great snakes" (Snake) that is really good work. You are on the finishing straight to a fantastic model. I'll be looking and learning here for my next rig. Hats off to you.

 

Cheers

Alistair

[Blue Ensign]

That's nice work on those served lines Jason, something that's occupying my mind at present!

 

Love the bow shot photo's

 

B.E.

Edited November 22, 2013 by Blue Ensign

[The Sailor]

Very nice work, Jason. Neat and clean.

[JPett]

Ahoy Jason

 

You really are setting a standard here with your build

Edited November 22, 2013 by JPett

[Beef Wellington]

Alistair, BE, Richard and JP - thanks as always for the interest, means a lot to have such skilled modelers looking over my shoulder.

 

Continuing to work on the lower masts (not much to show right now) and would like to ask some advice from more experienced hands if I may...

1. I'm debating whether to install the mast caps before installing the masts and I'm leaning towards leaving these off for now until after the shrouds are installed.  Knowing that they fit just fine, is this liable to cause any issues?
2. Same questions for the stanchions and the rail at the rear of the tops - seems that by installing these now they just seem to get in the way (i.e. be liable to knocked off/broken).  These have been dryfitted, so this seems like a simple task to add later.

[Blue Ensign]

Hi Jason,

 

My approach will be to fit the lower masts and then the shrouds before I add the topmasts and caps. I will make a 'mock up' of the Masthead on which to form the shrouds, and then transfer them to the actual model, less tiring that way.

 

I would leave the  Mast top rails until much later, on many models there are lines that have to be worked around the tops, or even belayed there, and those rails tend to be fairly fragile.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[mort stoll]

 

Hi guys,

I have always completely built the masts with the yards and all blocks attached off the model. I found the blocks, masts and yards easier to install and work with if I did this. I also attached and reeved as much of the standing rigging - with labels taped on their ends for id purposes - and the stays and backstays on one mast all before I stept the masts and yards to the ship.

 

I know this sounds a bit unorthodox but it works for me.

Mort

[drtrap]

.....................

 

1 - breaching rope hole made using 20 gauge wire - not called for in instructions but seems pretty ubiquitous

2 - added training tackle eyebolts..............

If anyone has any other suggested improvements would love to hear them.

 

carronade v3.1.JPGcarronade v3.2.JPGcarronade v3.3.JPG

Hello again Jason

as i'm waiting for the dispatch of the aftermarket carronades etc could you please tell me how have you fixed the rope hole on the barrel? Using cyano, epoxy glue or soldering.

Thank you.

 

Stergios 

[Beef Wellington]

Hello again Jason

as i'm waiting for the dispatch of the aftermarket carronades etc could you please tell me how have you fixed the rope hole on the barrel? Using cyano, epoxy glue or soldering.

Thank you.

 

Stergios

 

Stergios, used thick CA glue (my favorite) and it worked just fine.

[Beef Wellington]

Haven't had much time to spare recently.  Masts approaching completion, small strips of paper were used to simulate metal bands above the tops and also added some scratch jeer block strop cleats for bit more interest out of scrap.  Painted up it seems to be coming together and I'm pretty happy.  Rails and the eyebolts will be left off until later, but all holes have been drilled.  Few more deck details to put finishing touches to and glue, and then onto the shrouds and ratlines.

 

Edited March 29, 2014 by Beef Wellington

[Sjors]

That looks good Jason !

 

Very clean and crisp !

 

[Landlubber Mike]

Looking great Jason!  Very crisp work as usual.  i thought the mast construction part was a lot of fun on my build.

 

You've probably already thought about this, but look ahead at the plans and instructions to figure out whether it makes sense to attach some rigging now, so that you can access the blocks fairly easily (though, it looks like you're not attaching the blocks right now).  Going through the running rigging on my build now, I might have approached the build a bit differently than the instructions.

[jim_smits]

Great looking detail Jason.

 

I may be setting the pace but you are most certainly setting the bar for quality. Keep it up!

[Beef Wellington]

Sjors, Mike, Jim - as always your comments mean a lot coming from you guys, and always good advice!

 

Frustrating I've found that I'm two cleats short (and Cornwall Model Boats are out of stock!) so can't complete the mizzen mast just yet so started to attach blocks to the other masts.  Lots of pictures below on approach to the under blocks under the tops, Mobbsie was very kind to send through a lot of info that he had accumulated, found this modified method worked well for me.  Only had 4 to do, but thought it good practice to do it authentically as possible for practice even though I could probably have lived with blocks attached to eyebolts.

 

High tech jig assembled (i.e. 2 pins in spare wood about 9mm apart)  Block placed on one pin and knot tied at top of block to secure it in place.  Loose ends then tied over the top of other pin....

 

...knot tied on other side of pin to make a loop.  At this point applied some GS Hypo glue to the knots and the 'loop' to secure it.

 

After glue had dried, trimmed loose ends and served the line in between the loop and the block...

 

...which resulted in the finished item.

 

In place with wire pegs inserted into loops to keep them in place.  1.3mm holes were drilled and the hoops pulled through with thin thread.  Took a bit of teasing.

 

Edited March 29, 2014 by Beef Wellington

[egkb]

Jason, that looks incredible!

 

Eamonn

[hamilton]

Thanks for the tutorial Jason - the tops are looking great!

hamilton

[Sjors]

Jason,

 

You've got the nerve to do it !

Great , little tutorial !

You can use this also at your next build     

 

[mort stoll]

Hi Jason

 

I am also short of cleats. I made a mistake when I mailed Caldercraft and asked for more. They were great and sent what I asked for but I somehow did not ask for enough. I am going to order some from Bluejacket in Maine. I am embarrassed to ask Caldercraft for more. I have bought the same cleats before from them.

 

Mort

[Landlubber Mike]

Love the approach Jason!  I've been using the figure-8 seizing method which I've had mixed results with when needing the blocks to hang down lower.  This looks like a better way to go about it - thanks!

[Beef Wellington]

I need to ask some questions, sorry for length and diversity. 

1. In my previous post I'd fitted the blocks for the spritsail topsail brace, which are the only blocks called for in the instructions/plans.  Looking over Petersson it seems that there should be quite a few more, specifically for the buntlines and leechlines. My conundrum - do the plans overlook these or is there some reason why these would not be present on a smaller ship like Snake (seems unlikely)?  As I'm probably not going to put sails on this one, is there justification for leaving these off, I'd like to avoid the rework if possible.
2. I note that Petersson references Burton Pendants on each mast, again these are not mentioned in the kit instructions.  Would these also need to be added for basic accuracy?
3. I've seen it recommended that masts should not be glued in place as the shrouds will keep them position, but not quite sure why gluing is a bad idea.  I have quite a bit of side to side movement on the foremast because of the way the hole in the deck ended up. 

 

Couple of update pics on blocks to go into .  I seem to be becoming a little obsessed with the rigging which I need to stop if I want to finish this!  Blocks rigged for the main topmast stay and preventer stay.  I served the stropping for the preventer stay (per Lever) which was a pretty time consuming and very fiddly exercise but I was pleased with the result in the end.  Will need to go through this a few more times for the main stay and preventer stay.  Also made up the  mizzen deadeye for the mainmast. 

 

Preventer stay

Mizzen stay deadeye per Lever

 

Edited March 29, 2014 by Beef Wellington

[aliluke]

Hi Jason

You are way ahead of me in understanding rigging - these answers are more by intuition:

1. - I'd leave off all rigging and blocks directly associated with the sails if you aren't going to add them. (I may be wrong here). However I would include the various eyes that go with the sails. There are plenty of spare eyes on my AVS that are about sails.

2. - No idea

3. - I'd glue the mast in. I remember this discussion in the past and I would not like to rely on the shrouds to make things just right. Why add that complication to a complicated element. Epoxy glue the masts when every instrument you can have at hand that can satisfy you that they are plumb port starboard and to the correct rake. They will never move again at their base so get it right...

 

Cheers

Alistair

[jim_smits]

Fantastic work there Jason. Your detail on the rigging reminds me of Gil's Victory build.

 

Looking to improve the detail on my regging with the next build. Can I ask which Lever book you are referencing?