HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class

[mtaylor]

I hope you're right on the "more experience" part, Druxey.  I buy the alcohol in the super large bottles... so far.. only one.. but... stuff happens. 

[BANYAN]

Great recovery to separate those parts Alan, i am sure you had made sure there was 'adequate' glue on all parts which must have frustrated the heck out of you when doing this

 

cheers

 

Pat

[AnobiumPunctatum]

 

 I buy the alcohol in the super large bottles... so far.. only one.. but... stuff happens.

 

But I hope you only use it, for separating parts

[AON]

you do not want to drink that stuff... causes hair loss, blindness and a shortened life span.

[AON]

Saturday 04 June 2016

 

I managed to sand things relatively square and glue them back together.

The good news is I didn't have to remake any parts.

 

I will try to find time to sand to shape and mark off the frame footing steps tomorrow.

 

As a side note... I do not know how everyone else manages to get so much done in a week.

My days are just too full!

Edited June 5, 2016 by AON

[druxey]

Ah. Real progress today. Enjoy every small victory!

[BANYAN]

I hear you Alan (re time) - I am retired and still find it hard to devote a lot of time - but still I do get in more hours than I did when working

 

Great recovery on the stern wood.

 

cheers

[AON]

Thank you for the likes and encouragement in this small step.

I found that practically every piece was off on one side, top and bottom, by a hair.

The accumulated error over the six parts was considerable.

I checked the table on my sander and it seems as square as I will ever manage to set it.

 

I've 2-1/2 years to go before I retire... that must be the secret except my retired friends tell me they've never been so busy!

[druxey]

Cumulative error - the bane of every model maker. It pays to check the overall dimensions/angles after every piece one adds. 

[AON]

June 5 2016

 

I marked off the various transom steps into the stern post.  Sawed down to the reasonably proper depth (3/32" or 6") then made a number of cuts between, chiselled out the pieces and filed flat and square.

 

 

 

I then cut out a template of the stern frames in side view and laid it over the dry assembly of the deadwood and stern post. Some guide pencil marks were made on the wood but I did trace the wood assembly onto the template so I can properly lay it over again and trace the steps onto the wood.

 

The taper was marked onto the deadwood and the stern post was sanded to the line while the deadwood assembly was sanded down to just outside the line.

 

Presently all is glued together to the keel and set to dry.

 

 

Once dry I will finish the sanding and trace the step locations onto both sides of the deadwood then cut this in.

[AON]

Worked on the aft frame steps in the deadwood and stern post.

Finished one side with an error realised at the end... I went too high up on the stern post.

(I thought I was being so careful)

Now I must sleep on how to fix it... I have a couple ideas in mind.

Edited June 5, 2016 by AON

[BANYAN]

Nice work Alan, those frame steps look very neat.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[albert]

Great work Alan.

[AON]

Thank you all for the likes and comments.

 

I slept on it and decided to do the other side exactly the same.

 

"Two wrongs do not make a right" but in this case they will simplify the task as cutting the small relief notches in the sides for the (upper) transoms would very likely have resulted in one or more of them chipping off.  My original plan was to leave them out completely.  l likely would have tried anyway just because they are supposed to be there and so may have subconsciously did what I did as a result... more excuses!

 

Decision made. 

Edited June 6, 2016 by AON

[druxey]

Neatly done, Alan, but you'll do better using a much thinner pencil mark-out. If you don't, cumulative error will bite you again!

[AON]

Good morning Druxey!

 

I had tried a very thin lead mechanical pencil, running it along the edge of the paper template but it did not work very well.

So I used a regular old fashion wooden HB pencil with a dull point and ran it over the paper template and edge.

I figured it would leave a crisp line at the edge of the paper and I would cut the step along the top edge of the line.

My hand wasn't that steady but none the less I was quite happy with my first ever attempt.

 

A.

Edited June 13, 2016 by AON

[Landrotten Highlander]

Japanese house carpenters use a sharpened cut from a bamboo pole which has been charcoaled in fire.  Apparently it leaves a very crisp mark without creating a groove as our pencils might do.

Edited June 8, 2016 by Landrotten Highlander

[AON]

June 11 2016

 

I cut the frame steps into the port side of the aft deadwood and installed two more sections of the rising wood... and yes those are the two upper most transom pieces dry fitted into place.

 

The Wing Transom and the Filler Transom.

 

I intend to cut the other transom pieces but will not be fixing them in place permanently until I get the Stem Post (at the pointy end as my darling wife refers to it) in place.

[BANYAN]

Very nice Alan, some great progress.  I like the perspex/acrylic post holder concept.

 

Even in the service we sometimes referred to the "pointy end"  

 

cheers

 

Pat

[albert]

Great progress Alan.

[AON]

It was brought to my attention that my Wing Transom might not be set at the proper angle.

It was above horizontal (rising) inboard.  Thank you Druxey.

 

You can see from the snip below that they wing transom should be ever so slightly below horizontal inboard on the top surface. The lower surface is tapered.

The next two below it are also to be set so the top surface is lower inboard.

 

 

I made a small corrected the relief cut in the stern post to fix the issue.

Presently the (upper most) Wing Transom is now horizontal.

Another ever so tiny correction is in order, then I must correct the Filler Transom.

 

 

The next two lower transom template pieces are glued and ready for cutting.

 

[druxey]

The critical part of setting the wing transom is that, after the upper and aft surfaces are rounded, that the outer corners are at the correct height and on spec above the building board. If incorrect, the whole stern framework will be thrown off.

Edited June 12, 2016 by druxey

[AON]

Understood.

I've been thinking about building an adjustable device to allow me to set the transom (height) in position when gluing.

I'll keep your advice in mind.

Edited June 12, 2016 by AON

[Don9of11]

Nice work Alan! I always learn something when I come to see your progress. Have you tried using a 4H or 6H pencil? I have found that these leads hold their sharpness a little longer than the standard 2H.  

[AON]

Good morning Don,

 

As an old (old OLD) draughtsman I have almost a complete set of leads for my really ancient mechanical pencils.  The hard leads do keep a point longer but they were meant for light line work (layout work not object lines) and, for me, do not always leave a easily visible line on wood.  The softer lead does leave an easily visible line without gouging (engraving into)  the wood.  I believe I mentioned this before... I am naturally very heavy with my pencil work so must be conscious when using one so I do not leave a permanent dent behind.  The softer lead works better for me personally.

 

The newer thin lead mechanical pencils do not like me so much... the lead keeps snapping off (breaking) due to my natural tendency to put to much pressure on them!

 

Alan

[AON]

Sunday 02 July 2016

Some time has passed since my last posting here because I had revealed yet another issue.  Druxey had commented that I should assure I get the wing transom set at the proper angle or everything would be thrown off.

 

When setting the angle something seemed amiss.  Upon studying the original sheer and timber plans from NMM it became obvious they did not agree with regards to the placement of the transom pieces.  To add to this my stern post was short by almost two feet (my error).

 

After considerable reflection I marked the proper heights on a piece of stiff cardboard.  I cut off the top of my stern post to be flush with the upper side of the wing transom and then grafted an extension to my stern post to be the correct height.  This has yet to be sanded.  I then had to adjust the height "shelf" of my inner post and nipped off all those wonderful pocket extensions.  I am concerned for the adjacent frame templates now as they may be out of alignment.  I'll be double checking this before I make these aft frame timbers.

 

 

I've rough cut all the transom pieces and will fit them after I have the stem post assembly made and attached.  I'll be working on the stem post next.

 

 

[druxey]

Two feet short? Reminds me of my favourite Dilbert cartoon (Hope I'm not infringing copyright by showing this, but it's too good not to share):

[AON]

Although embarrassing it is human error, mine and the original draughtsman.

 

I never thought to blame the measuring tape.

 

I have to say your suggestion to make rulers to my build scale has been unbelievable worthwhile!

Edited July 5, 2016 by AON

[BANYAN]

Very nice rework; better to fix now then try to live with the consequences later

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Don9of11]

Nice work on the transom pieces Alan, As to the other measuring oversight, don't look at it as a mistake but as an opportunity.