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HMS Victory by guraus - scale 1:48 plank on frames

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Thank you all for the kind words and appreciation.



Hello Alexandru, why not continue until the first part of the mats ( the tops) with dormant ropes. It would be more complete.







I thought about that, I even made the main mast but when I dry fit it into the model, the size of it scared me. The model is big anyway and with lower masts would have gain a lot in height  - so much that it won't fit in my car anymore and be really difficult to even take out from my basement where my workshop is.


So I decided to not do any masts on the Victory, and to reuse the already made mast for another project. Additionally the custom made display box I ordered was made for the model without masts - and I payed a lot for it. To all this add the fact that I am working on this model for more than 9 years so I really needed a change - thus the decision to stop were I am and call it "done". There are a lot of other small details I could have done on it as it is (without increase in size) but in the end I decided not to.



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  • 2 weeks later...



I went to your sight.  Beautiful photos.  I saw that you did more work on the stern gallery.  Can you explain how you did the balusters?  I saw the photos, but I wasn't sure how you formed them.





Hello Mark,


Sorry for the late replay but my computer (where the pictures were) was broken and it took a while to fix it.


Here is a short description on how I did the balusters:

  1. I cut the desired shape in a piece of steel (an used broken knife blade) - you can see the shape in the first picture.
  2. On the back I glued a piece of wood the same thickness as the balusters (2mm in my case) at same distance (2mm) from the top of the shaped blade.
  3. I also glued two more pieces same thickness to delimit the length of the baluster stock - about 25mm apart. This way the square 2mm stock cut at 25mm length will fit exactly in that space and won't move sideways and its top will be flush with the top of the shaped blade.
  4. The whole assembly was hold in a vice.
  5. The square pieces of box wood (blanks) were placed in that notch and fixed in position by two small clamps as seen in the second picture. This kept the future baluster from moving back and forth on the next operation - filing the shape. 
  6. With several small jeweller files (square, round and trapezoidal) the shape from the blade was filed into the wood. Be careful to keep the file perpendicular on the template and horizontal so to have the same depth of the cuts across. See third picture for the result of this operation.
  7. Losses the clamps, remove the baluster, turn it 90 degrees, put it back and fix it with the clamps.
  8. Repeat step 6
  9. Repeat step 7 again by turning the blank in the same direction and that's it - you'll have a three sided square section baluster - I only needed them three sided as they were glued on the stern gallery but you can do them four sided if you need.

Another tricky part was doing the balusters that were placed at different angles (increasing angles) like those in the last picture.


For those first and third sides (side views) were cut (filed) perpendicular on the template but the second (front view) has to be in an increasing angle. In order to do that, the filing of the second side has to be at an angle which required the baluster blanks to be a bit shorter (say 23mm instead of 25). Here are the steps:


  1. ​place the blank in the jig as before aligned with the left side (future top of balusters). This will produce a small gap (2mm) at the other end.
  2. file first side perpendicular as before
  3. place the blank exactly as in step one for the second side
  4. file de second side in an angle bigger than 90 say about 100 degree (I estimated the angles trying to increase them for subsequent ones by trial and error) considering it from the left side (baluster top). Be careful to du all the "cuts" at the approximately same angle. After scraping several I got the hang of it.
  5. unclamp and turn the blank (always in the same direction) but this time it has to be shifted a bit to the right - depending of the angle you did the filing - say 1 mm in this case to be able to align the notches on the second side with those on the template, clamp back.
  6. shape the third side perpendicular again as the first one
  7. you're done you just have to cut it at the required length to fit the space you need it for.


Hope this lengthy explanation is clear enough. If not just ask.


Regards Alexandru








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Thank you for the detailed explanation! I really appreciate you taking the time to fix your old computer to get the photos and then providing such a detailed explanation!  I've been wondering how to tackle this for quite some time.  You really nailed the stern.


 I'm just amazed with your work.  It was a pleasure to follow and I continue to go back to again and again for inspiration!

thanks for sharing with us!




Edited by keelhauled
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  • 4 weeks later...

I have been building a 1:60 scratch model of the H.M.S. Victory for the past 12 years.  I am ready to start on the stern structure and this was very helpful.  I have essentially completed the hull (inner planking, frames, outer planking and coppering), but was delaying the stern section until I prepared the rest of the hull structure due to its relative fragility.  I have left two segments in the starboard hull open so that the viewer can see the ship's interior.  I have almost completed the hold with the filling room, great magazine, light room, pump room, etc. and have filled it in will various barrels, casks, powder barrels, bags, and other nautical gear to demonstrate actual use.  I am just about completed the hold and am ready to build in the orlop deck now with the hanging magazines, sail room, etc.  I have left part of the decking out so that the viewer can see the ship's interior for key areas (e.g., magazine, pump room, etc.).  I generally only see "admiralty models" in the museums, so it was interesting to see the frames and half-frames of your model that reflect the actual mode of construction.  Well done.  I have used a similar approach and look forward to working on the stern with the aid of your photos of the stern section.  THANKS!

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