Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)

[Jack Panzeca]

Thanks David, the saw sure is fun.  The Driftwood stain is here pictures soon.

 

Thanks Pete, happy that you are looking in.  I checked out your build and it is really beautiful.

[reklein]

This is a little late , but nice work on the ship. I think I may be starting one of these in the fall. Also Really nice work on your photo website. Bill in Idaho

[Jack Panzeca]

I finished cutting the easy planking, the tapered pieces at the sides and each end as well as the bent pieces at the mast foot are next.  The planks are just placed loosely and since they were cut and sanded specific to each space I will take them out and bundle them up until I am ready to glue them in place. I jumbled them up once already and it is like putting together a jig saw puzzle to get them back where they belong.

 

 

But first I thought I should get Von_Kossa's latest challenge out of the way.  The actual Oseberg (photo from Von_Kossa's build log) has an open compartment at each end of the ship that is not accounted for by the kit.  Those spaces get really crowded so I want to do the cutting before I finish framing.

 

 

 

Von_Kossa said that when he started to do the cutout he felt like he was destroying his model.  When I was doing it I actually did pop the top two planks loose.  Oh well, more room for my hands.  No real harm, they will glue back easily.  Better to find the weakness now than later.

 

Here are the latest stain tests.  I took all four photos at the same time with the same light and the same camera.   The color temperature was matched so the comparison will be accurate.  The wood is domestic Red Oak.

 

 

The choice is not easy.  I think I will pin up the board and stare at it a while.  Comments welcome.

[pete48]

Hi Jack, You have a tough decision, I like the look of the Spiced Walnut ( they all look good ) The Walnut caught my eye first, if that helps

 

Best Regards,

Pete

[Jack Panzeca]

Hi Bill in Idaho, it is never to late to join the fun.  Thanks for looking in on the build and also the photos.  Your kind comments are greatly appreciated.

[dgbot]

The aged oak looks good for the age. But the driftwood gives a distressed used look.

David B

[Vivian Galad]

Jack, think I´ll go with David. Aged oak still looks aged, but driftwood gained my vote - better defined grains, aged look and would say some boots stepped in that planks.

[Jack Panzeca]

Hi David and Vivian,

 

It is a really tough decision.  The only one that I can dismiss out of hand is Golden Oak.  Even "The Admiral" is no help.  Every time she enters the shipyard and looks at the test panel she picks a different stain.  I have to make up my mind soon because I want to stain the inside of the storage compartments before I glue the planking in place.

 

Also, thanks for the likes.

 

Update coming soon.

[Jack Panzeca]

When the idea of the bow and stern storage (?) compartments came up I thought that I would cut out a bit of the bulkhead and add an oak strip at the top. It would match the other bulkheads and would act as the top of the compartment.  It soon became obvious that this solution would be less than attractive so I cut the bulkhead away at the level of the deck.

 

 

I made a templet from cardboard and cut several attempts from oak with a scroll saw.  Remember that I am the one that likes oak.  It is hard wood and a pain to work with in these small pieces.  The second photo is a partial pile of the throwaways.

 

 

I finally got two that I like.  

 

 

The planking is cut and laid in loosely, some of it still needs a little work.

 

 

Next is the mast foot and the associated bits and then finish the planking for keeps.  

[Keith_W]

Superb work! I admire your persistence. You really get a feeling for the Vikings with your model.

[pete48]

Looks Great Jack

 

Best Regards,

Pete

[Bindy]

Hi Jack,

 

A big congratulations on your Christmas present!  I am guessing he doesn't really check his list twice after all, or have you been VERY good?  Joking !!!

 

It was just wonderful to come back and see the beauty of your Oseberg Viking Ship taking shape AND some more of your amazing photography!  I think I am as much help as your Admiral in that I was positive that Driftwood was my choice of colour until I checked the spelling and decided I preferred the Spiced Walnut, but now I check again I do prefer the Driftwood, wait a sec.  Oh darn it, I will go and look at your photographs instead hahaha

[Jack Panzeca]

Hi Keith,  thanks for the kind words.  The thought of crossing oceans in similar ships with a deeper draft is mind boggling.  They were definitely tougher than most.

 

Hey Pete, thanks for looking in, your Herreshoff Buzzards Bay is absolutely beautiful.

 

Hello Bindy,  my children are grown and they still think that I am Santa Claus.  The stain choice continues to drive me nuts, it will probably be one of those last minute dart throw decisions.  On the other since it is so hard to chose I probably cannot go wrong whatever the decision.

 

Thanks to all the "likes".

[Jack Panzeca]

Next up is the mast foot, partner and the planking around them.  The planks are 1/16 inch thick. The 2 rows adjacent to the mast are slightly curved so I reduced the thickness to 1 / 32 inch to make them easier to bend.  The planks are about 1 ½ inches long.   I soaked them in water and wrapped  them around a mailing tube end and let them dry and cut to length.

 

 

The kit version of the mast foot and partner were both plywood and were replaced with oak.  The partner is made of oak about ⅛ thick.  It mounts on a curve and ties into the bulkhead.  The kit version has it tying into the hull and adds knees on top to make it look like the bulkhead existed.  Since I added the extra bulkheads I did not need to do this.  Then I added the ledge under the partner to hold the planks.  Since the bent planks are thinner I raised the ledge on the far side to bring them up flush.

 

 

Here are the curved planks with one row of flat laid in loose.  I will bag them and keep them with the others until I am ready to install permanently.  They really fit together well but keeping them in place long enough to take a picture was maddening.   

 

 

I think that I will work on shields for a while to give myself time to think about nailing the hull planking.     One of the reasons I am not gluing the planks yet is in case I decide to nail access may be helpful.  The nails were round headed iron rivets.  in some pictures square washers can be seen in a few places.

 

[gjdale]

Hi Jack,

 

I've only just stumbled across your log. What a lovely job you're doing on this model - really first class workmanship! I've gotta agree with you about the Byrnes saw - a work of art and a joy to use. His other machines are equally good.

 

I love your photography snippets too. You're clearly a man of many talents and an artist's eye. I'll enjoy following along the rest of your build.

[Jack Panzeca]

Hi Grant,

 

Welcome aboard.  I have really enjoyed doing the log.  It is nice to discuss shipbuilding with others who actually are actually interested.  

 

I took a quick look at your Victory.  Amazing, the talent on this forum is endless.  I will enjoy going through it in detail soon.

 

Thank you for looking in and the kind words.  I will throw in a little photography occasionally.  Maybe I should do a photo topic in Shore Leave.  I avoid photography sites because they are so negative and nasty.

[gjdale]

Hi Jack,

 

Thanks for the welcome.

 

I'm sure a topic on photography would be welcomed, especially if it focused (pun intended) on how we can improve our model and work-in-progress photography. I think there are a lot of folk here who would really appreciate some advice from someone with as much expertise as you clearly have. If you were to also make that a Q & A opportunity, even better. I realise though that this would be saddling you with a fair bit of extra "work" that might detract from your own modelling time, so only do it if you're comfortable with the idea.

[Jack Panzeca]

Hi Grant,

 

I think that is a good idea.  A small tutorial with examples and open it up for suggestions and questions.  There are two types to consider: build log pictures and more formal gallery images.  Let me think about the outline and we can collaborate before we start.

[gjdale]

Great Jack - I'll look forward to it. I need all the help I can get when it comes to photography!

[Jack Panzeca]

The mast is oak and I tapered it using power drill and sandpaper method.  This is a very simple mast and took no time at all, I did make a huge mess.

 

The shields will be next.  The kit version is (as usual) laser cut plywood.  

 

 

I felt the need to improve on that. The choices are to build the shields out of planks or cut the disks and score to look like planks.  Chuck Passaro demonstrated a technique on his HMS Winchelsea Quarter Gallery columns that I thought was really interesting so I decided to try it on the shields.  There are 30 of them and I have a pile of mahogany given to me by a friend that is close to the correct thickness and can be quickly dimensioned by the thickness sander.  I would have taken me a week on the old Preac but the new Byrnes will handle it in no time.

 

I used a .016 kerf blade raised 1/64 above the table.  I spaced the cuts 5mm apart and they lined up nicely.

 

 

I cobbled together a mini mill using a Vanda-Lay drill press with a "Z" axis fine adjustment attachment, a Proxxon X-Y table and a toy rotary table that I got years ago with a Unimat 1.

 

 

I set it up on the rotary table and cut out the shield, using a 3mm end mill.  The mahogany is soft enough to use a smaller mill but that was the smallest I had on hand.  

 

 

I did not dimension the strips for the test because I wanted to prove to myself that it would work before I spent the time.  Now all I have to do is score and cut 30 more.  I will score in long strips before I cut shield size pieces.  

 

Thirty identical things taxes me enough but the thought of over 100 gun ports and canon carriages for a ship of the line seems beyond my concentration level.  I guess the maximum ship for me is a frigate.

[gjdale]

Nicely done Jack.

[Bindy]

Hi Jack,

 

Thank you for sharing exactly how made the first shield, it really does look great !!  And already better than the kit one 

 

I have taken a screenshot of your post so I can tease you with it when you create your first ship of the line 

[Jack Panzeca]

Hi Jack,

 

I have taken a screenshot of your post so I can tease you with it when you create your first ship of the line 

Hi Bindy,

 

Years ago I visited the Victory and took many pictures.  I even took the "Modelers Tour" where, for a few pounds, they let you explore many places the regular tour is not allowed.  As life would have it I never got around to the Victory and now I can't remember the details anyway.  At least I still have the pictures (somewhere).   It will be a long time before I develop the patience to anything with that much repetition.  Thanks fro stopping by.

[Lecsandro]

Good work!

[Jack Panzeca]

Hi Grant and Lecsandro,

 

Thanks for dropping by and especially for the kind words.  I have been laying low for a few days during the holiday but it is time to make some more sawdust.

 

Working on an update now.

[Jack Panzeca]

After proving to myself that I could actually do the shields the way that I planned I scored the strips and cut them into smaller pieces and cut the circles as shown in the last update, 32 in all.  30 for the ship and 2 spare for screw ups.  I am still researching how I will decorate them.   

 

 

The rudder supplied with the kit is the usual plywood so as usual I felt the need to replace them.

 

 

The mounting pieces were cut from 1/16 in oak and I was having control problems with my skip tooth scroll saw blades.  The wood was hopping around and driving me nuts.  After an exhaustive search of every place I could have hidden blades from myself I found a pack of very nice blades I picked up in Japan 15 or so years ago with 36 teeth per 25mm (about 1 inch).  They cut like butter with great control.

 

The rudder itself is 5/32 inch oak and I put the pieces together and cut a 1 mm slot for the rudder handle.  The handle was carved from a piece of 2.5 x 5 mm oak scrap and placed into the slot.

 

 

I think that the hull plank nails are next.  The were iron with a few showing washers.  I am still working out how to do this. 

 

In re-reading this before I posted I realized that I have been switching back and forth between metric and fractions of inches.  I promise to pick one and and stick with it (as much as I can anyway).

[dgbot]

The shields now the rudder what will be next?

David B

[Keith_W]

Jack, you are doing superb work.

 

Re: how to make the nails, take a look at this: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3315-making-small-nails-with-round-head/

[Vivian Galad]

Great, Jack!

[gjdale]

Lovely work on the rudder Jack.