Royal Louis 1780 by Ulises Victoria - FINISHED - Mamoli - Scale 1/90 - French 126-gun ship

[BANYAN]

Hi Ulisis, seems like you have got a solution.  My approach would have been to make a jig that represented the finished planking thickness (plus a smidge) with a square hole the size of the ports.  Place the jig over the ports as they are now up against the framing and sand the metal ports down to approximate depth based on the jig.  After planking and fitting the barrels there wouldn't be much sanding involved to fair the planks and ports which should minimise the risk of damage to the cannon?  Just one approach - many other

 

Looking good BTW

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Karleop]

Hola Ulises

 

As usual, very nice work!!

 

Saludos, Karl

[mtaylor]

Ulises,

 

Frolich (The Art of Ship Modeling) saves the barrels until last so they don't get knocked about during rigging.  As the French ships rig the breeching rope different, this works for him.  I can see where it would work for you, just put epoxy on the trunnions and the area that sits on the quoin.  But try to make it the final step (or nearly final) of the build.  Yeah.. I'm doing a Frenchie but we'll see on when I do the guns. 

[Lecsandro]

Nice work!

[Ulises Victoria]

Thank you all for your encouragement words, and advice!!!!

Edited July 18, 2014 by Ulises Victoria

[Ulises Victoria]

Another small update.

 

The cannon carriages are permanently (I hope! ) fixed.

The second false deck has been adjusted and glued/nailed in place.

Starting of planking job on this deck.

 

Cheers! Thanks for visiting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

General view. Fore false deck is just placed there. Not yet adjusted or fixed.

 

Edited July 18, 2014 by Ulises Victoria

[BANYAN]

Shishh! You're not wasting any time in putting this build together mate; that's quite some quality progress.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited July 20, 2014 by BANYAN

[Ulises Victoria]

July 21 2014

Progress in planking the second stern deck.

Doing it very slow to make it as good as my possibilities allow.

 

 

[Ulises Victoria]

Thanks Arthur.

I tried the method of gluing black tissue paper to the sides of the planks, but that just didn't work for me. So what I'm doing here is painting the side of the planks with a black pencil. Not a gray graphite pencil, but a black color pencil. Another thing to note is I don't paint the "side" of the plank. Think more like painting "the upper edge" of the side of the plank. (hope this makes sense, or is clear) After the glue is dry, I "erase" the joints with a white pencil eraser. This gets rid of any excess of the black stuff and leaves just what's necessary between planks. So far I am happy with the result.

 

Edit: I only paint the right and lower sides of each plank.

Edited July 22, 2014 by Ulises Victoria

[mtdoramike]

You should be happy with the results, it's a great planking job. 

[Ulises Victoria]

Small update.  July 25 - 14

I finished planking the first portion of the second stern false deck. The remaining will be planked once the bulwarks are built and the tip of the bulkheads removed.

No finishing applied yet.

Next step is to place the beams that will support the last false deck above this one, as well as fitting of the fore castle deck.

 

Cheers

[mtdoramike]

Absolutely beautiful planking job. Your really flying on this model now.

[dgbot]

Nice job of planking. I like the effect you have given the deck.

David B

[Ulises Victoria]

Hi all. Another small update. I decided to keep planking the remaining of this deck leaving unplanked only the edges where the bulwarks will be built.

No finish has been applied to the wood yet. You see plain raw untreated wood.

Also some trimming still to do.

 

Thanks for visiting.

 

[dgbot]

How are you going to prep and finish the deck?

David B

[Ulises Victoria]

Good question. I made a board with several pieces of wood planking to do some tests (page 7 post 92). I'm still undecided.

I want to give this ship a slightly weathered look, so I think I will use a liquid named "weather it", that makes wood look old and used.The problem is in my testing that applying any other finish afterwards, erases that look. I may use that weather it liquid and nothing else. After all, real decks weren't covered in tung oil or shellac finishings. (Comments on this,anyone?)

 

Will see.

[dgbot]

Ulises, have you tried staining?  Several members here have experimented with it for giving their decks a weathered look.  Minwax makes an aged oak that really adds age to the planking.  And it will take a top coat.  As for the deck are you going to scrape or sand?

David B

[Ulises Victoria]

Ulises, have you tried staining?  Several members here have experimented with it for giving their decks a weathered look.  Minwax makes an aged oak that really adds age to the planking.  And it will take a top coat.  As for the deck are you going to scrape or sand?

David B

Thanks. I haven't try that. 

I think I will scrape the decks. Seems to me that sanding leaves a way too smooth surface, not very realistic, IMO.

[md1400cs]

 Ulises,

 

Nice progress. You are working at very good pace. She'll probably be masted before Dia de los Muertos. ha ha 

 

Su Amigo,

 

Michael

[Ulises Victoria]

Thank you all for the likes and the comments. No, I'm sorry... she will not be finished anytime soon

 

I just understood what the instructions were regarding hull planking, and specially how the bulwarks will be built. As I understand, there will be 4 layers of wood there. I had to read and see the drawings so many times to finally understand them. That in itself gives a sense of accomplishment.

[Ulises Victoria]

Update August 5 2014

 

Finished planking the fore deck. This will be a highly visible area, so care was taken to do it the best I could. What remains unplanked at the edges, will be finished once the bulwarks are built with the first and second hull planking. The plan is to do the two outside hull planking, cut the tips of the bulkheads, finish the remaining deck planking to cover the broken tips, and last finish with the two layers that will form the inner bulwarks. (Is this clear??? )

 

Thanks for visiting.

[HIPEXEC]

Wow...120 cannons....I'm slaving over 22!

[Ulises Victoria]

This is the material I use for my windows. Is plastic mosquito mesh glued to a clear acetate sheet.The glue comes from a spray artists use to protect pencil or pastel works from smearing.

 

 

 

Gluing the material to the metal frame after paint it

 

 

 

Lesson learned:Those metal windows do not bend. I broke this one, and had to fix it with epoxy. The good news is that this will be in a very low visibility area, (there's still one more deck above) so not much care was taken. I painted the frame with Floquil Antique White, one of my all time favorite colors.

 

 

 

Thanks for watching!!!

Edited August 8, 2014 by Ulises Victoria

[BANYAN]

Great tip; many thanks.  your build is coming along very nicely!

 

Cheers

 

Pat

[Sjors]

That is very nice for the widows Ulises !

Looks great.

 

[CaptainSteve]

UV !! That's brilliant.

Please !! Post this idea of yours to Kit-Basher's !!

Edited August 8, 2014 by CaptainSteve

[Ulises Victoria]

UV !! That's brilliant.

Please !! Post this idea of yours to Kit-Basher's !!

I already did! See post # 19 there! 

 

Edit. Most of the pictures in that thread are gone. I reposted mine.

Edited August 8, 2014 by Ulises Victoria

[Ulises Victoria]

Problem (hopefully) solved.

 

In order to make the proper curvature on the decks, this kit tells you to glue some beams between the bulkheads, and when the glue is dry, force a pre shaped piece of wood between the beams and the deck and this will elevate the beams the correct amount.You then glue the stanchions under the beams, remove the piece of wood and the curve will remain.

 

 

In this deck, you can see that the height of the piece of wood that's supposed to curve the beams is way too low.

(Shudders) Did I something wrong or is there a mistake in the kit???

 

 

Anyway, I decided to curve the beams by making them a bit too large so they would bend by themselves when placed against the bulkheads. I did this by eye. I only hope this will not be a disastrous decision later.  

 

 

These are not glued yet. Not doing it until I'm completely certain this will end OK

Edited August 9, 2014 by Ulises Victoria

[Ulises Victoria]

Arthur. As always you have a point. Yes the aft beam looks a bit flat. That will be easily corrected by either making a new beam or pushing it up a bit with the stanchions.

If you mean the gap between the piece of wood and the beams, no. The piece of wood doesn't even reach the flat portion of the bulkheads where the beams rest. It is definitely too short.

 

Thank you, my friend.

[dgbot]

Have you tried gluing up the beams making them a little thicker? This way you can sand and shape it to the camber and height you need.

David B