HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...

[dafi]

Thank you druxey!

 

Well, Augsburg is now over and all buyers of my block collection have received a free update that includes the Steel specifications. I hope I haven't forgotten anyone, if not please let me kno 🙂

And after all those blocks, time for a chang 🙂

A long time ago I had already presented the built Brodie stove. Cooking place for 800 men.

First mishap - I had actually misplaced it for almost a year ...

Second mishap - space test and the stove turned out to be 2 mm too high ...

In the meantime, because of the unavailability of the original, I had made it again in print ...



... on the right the recovered stove, in the centre the first print - also too high - and on the left the right-scaled version, here the printing technique actually helped to quickly define the correct size, as I had scaled the stove in 2 % steps and could therefore simply place the results on my deck and select the appropriate size.





And the winner is:













XXXDAn

[dafi]

The best parties always take place in the kitchen.

First of all, of course, we need the kitchen worktop. Coincidentally, one of the prints I had made for the Revell Constitition fits like a glove, no wonder, almost the same scale and the design was based anyway on the design of the British 😉

Anyway, the kitchen and hearth are only worth as much as the life that takes place there.



The first three men assigned to kitchen duty were quickly pressed. Frederick Bush, the 24-year-old, hunky German is fetching firewood, Irishman Thomas Foley, at 47 one of the oldest crew members on board, will be working on a meat-like structure and Hans Yaul from Switzerland will be chasing the protein-rich maggots out of the cheese with his big knife.

Number 4 was more of a challenge. It's always nice when the kits come with little men, but they're usually not the right kind of hands-on character. Here on the right is a sailor from the Constitution kit.



Any sailor would immediately fall over on land with his legs in a row like this, so I first changed the leg position to a stable three-point position and also tilted the head slightly for the dynamics. After all, he should be fuelling the stove. However, the test position then showed a completely incorrect and far too static posture for this.

So he bent his back and brought his second arm into a working position. Now he finally looks like somebody doing a job.



Number 4 is alive 🙂

I then used one of my misprints to prepare the wood filling. The grill at the front of the Brodie Stove has 3 sections, so apparently you can fire it in 3 sections depending on what capacity you need. This is also the log length that dear Frederick has in his arms at the moment.



Afterwards, the lower decks are secured against falling objects with cotton wool pads ...



... and the grill is carfully loaded with firewood. We now know that our dear Lord of the Fire is 28-year-old James Caton from Brazil, with the logs that Frederik has placed in front of him and two bags of coals next to him for a nice, even heat.



And here you can already see why I had to shorten the height of the Brodie Stove compared to the original drawings: of course it has to pass under the deck beam and the two lids at the top should still be accessible. That's why there is a gap of exactly one deck beam width between the chimney and the lids at the top. How these two boilers could be effectively operated and cleaned with this limited access is still beyond my understanding.

Just like the automatic turning mechanism of the grill spit at the front. I know of English country houses that have a similar system, but there are usually much larger fires at work. The mechanics of the drive chain and the corresponding bearing of the spit are also not yet technically comprehensible to me in detail, even if they are based on identical plans in the NMM.

Furthermore, you have to bear in mind that the whole stove in Portsmouth is only a replica based on the plan just mentioned. I think back then, the stove size and installation situation were customised for each ship. Whether this is all correct in the replica is therefore not known. And fortunately, the difference in height is no longer noticeable once installed in the model.

And while we're on the subject of size and deck height, Frederick, with his height of 1.9 metres, which was unusual for the time but not uncommon, also has a problem here ...



... that standing is just about possible, but the next deck beam is already lurking for his head.



So he was clever enough to adopt a slightly more stooped posture to wriggle himself past the firewood, the coal bags and the water barrels.

In the small cooking chamber you can already see that with two people it's going to be a tight squeeze, especially if there's someone else working on the stove. I have deliberately avoided decorating the worktop like the breakfast buffet in Portsmouth, as everyone brings what they need for cooking from their mess and has to leave a clean worktop afterwards. After all, this is the only cooking area for 800+ crew members.

And that's the end of the small picture in the picture, just a few more impressions 🙂











Prost Mahlzeit,

XXXDAn

[dafi]

Captn "Redbeard" dafi in his natural habitat.

[Veszett Roka]

Ensure me Daniel you didn't sing sea shanties there

[dafi]

But of course I did!

 

There was no other way getting me the rum - they found out I can´t sing AND drink at the same time ...

 

XXXDAn

[dafi]

Happiness is a warm gun ...

... nooooo ...

Happiness is once again being able to stick your nose in the wind ...
 

... with space above it ...
 

...and space below.
 

Just let your gaze wander to the horizon.
 

It's funny how everything suddenly looks so small.
 

And let the little blue spot - aka Sweetheart - drop a little kiss from above.
 

Or wave to the boys in the jib net ...
 

... or take a leisurely stroll at the front of the jib boom and enjoy the wind, sun and waves at over 8 knots.
 

And look forward to the evening, because the 3 headsails ...
 

... I was allowed to salvage and stow it every evening while still underway, so that everything looked safe and smart in the harbour.
 

And this is the old Lady, the Hendrika Bartelds ...
 

... just to be happy

XXXDAn

[druxey]

Nice!

[Baker]

a real sailor, without fear of heights 😉

[Veszett Roka]

I'm jelaous Daniel. What an experience and joy, i was instanly fallen in love with this old lady. Interesting to see that the footropes made from stainless bowdens and the wideners (salings in german term) were made from 10*10 cm square steel  

[dafi]

It was marvellous, especially as, unlike modern yachts, the old lady really is sailed as it was done some 400 years ago, so we had 1 skipper, 2 able seamen and us 25 landlubber who had to lend all hands as instructed. Almost everyone is needed to set the gaff sails.

 

Hoisting in and stowing the headsails is also a marvellous task, especially the outer jib with the largest sail mass of the three sails and the smallest space to work on, as the net actually leaves no room for feet. And the mass of cloth can really put up good fights, especially with some wind incorporated. And knowing that, unlike the sailors on the Victory 250 years ago with their much larger sails to cope with, we were are at least well secured out there ...

 

In the past, it was the sailors who built models, today the modellers come to the ship FCC to understand what they are actually building.

And there are few places one can get closer to this than folding an outer jib 🙂

 

XXXDAn

Edited July 1 by dafi

[dafi]

Mum, he did it again!

XXXDAn

Edited September 9 by dafi

[dafi]

Main mast area, summer 2024:

Some new deck pillars have found their way onto the ship, increasing the number of original kit parts used immensely but because of this, some of the incorrectly placed ones had to make way for others.



Some coamings were also newly created ...



... and then the internal structures around the main mast were added.











XXXDAn

[dafi]

After objection to the visible separation of the bitts at deck level, what I do best was done, demolition ...



... on the right the old two-part bitts and on the left the new one-part bitt http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif

The next step was the planking of the deck. To do this, I built a first template ...



... only to realize that this shape impairs the view too much and shadows everything below.

So V2 with the first few meters of the gangway.



After that, I first had to extend the substructure.



The first impressions of the deck during planking are always a bit gruesome ...



... but after sanding it fits.





As always, I put some cotton pads in to clean up the edge of the waist.



And being very high-spirited, I decided to use another original kit part. But the holes for the eyebolts were too big, so they were sealed with 1 mm Evergreen round material and re-drilled with 0.5 mm.



A few more etched ring bolts from my set resulted in a nice new corner on the ship.



XXXDAn

[Baker]

Beautiful result 👍

[dafi]

Thank you Patrick!

 

Next I noticed that the boarding spikes were still missing. There are two rings to be doubled on my etched parts set, so I stapled the through-holes together using 3 suitable wires.







And even this corner improved as a result.

XXXDAn

[dafi]

Then came a new adventure, the shrouds.

Somehow, all the interesting things I wanted to try always came to the point where the shrouds would have been installed. So I couldn't avoid it any longer, so I set off on a new adventure.

I ordered the cables for the shrouds and stays from www.modellbau-takelgarn.de. They had the complete range in tenths of a millimeter increments, and the standing rigging is a deep brown and not the usual bluish deep black.

The brown allowed me to achieve the color I wanted. First I made the ropes a whole lot darker with heavily diluted black artist's ink. What a mess that was. The lawn in the garden still looks sunburnt, but the new appearance is now a deep deep brown compared to the original. ...



To dress the eyes around the masthead and the first shroud, I went back to the glue fake method that I had already used for the bopstays. To do this, I measured the area to be dressed and always made a marker knot at the borders with a makeshift yarn as a glue border.



Then I applied the fake dressing. This involved the eyes below the crosstrees on a length corresponding to the masthead´s height and the foremost shroud along the entire length.



The procedure was always the same: apply a generous layer of white glue with a small wooden stick then spread the glue well with your fingers using the three-finger method and smooth with spit, allow to dry, then repeat and finally seal with black paint. The shrouds were now ready for further assembly.

Next, I determined the circumference of the masthead ...



... and made a template. A 10 mm round stick was wrapped with paper until the required 11 mm of the test loop was obtained.

The loop of the shroud was fixed with a pair of clamping tweezers ...



... tied with 10 knots - 5 at the top and alternating 5 at the bottom ...



... and the package neatly secured with a seizing.



The two pendants were given their thimbles.







As there is an odd number of shrouds, the rearmost one was joined to the opposite side in a horseshoe splice.



And then there was the first trial assembly. Pendant starboard, pendant port, first pair of shrouds sb, first pair of shrouds bb and so on. This allowed me to check whether the aft shrouds would fit under the aft cross tree - they didn't at first.



So I raised the pairs of shrouds again and successively turned all the pairs further forward. And then it did fit.





When the stays came to lie on top, everything was tightened up even more and now keeps the rear cross tree well clear.





XXXDAn

PS: Here you can see again how model builder's impatience would take revenge if you had already glued the mast cap or even the fighting top ...

 

Edited September 16 by dafi

[druxey]

Very neatly done at such a small scale!

[dafi]

Thankyou very much druxey!

 

XXXDAn

[dafi]

The next step was dead on onto the dead eyes 🙂

Before I started, I lifted the fighting top and checked that all the shrouds were in the right order. And indeed, there were two pairs on the starboard side in the area of the landlubbers hole that were lying crosswise.





Then the shrouds below were assigned to their dead eyes. God bless the inventor of the hair clips!



There is almost nothing better for pre-tightening some rigging than wooden clothespins in combination with gravity.



Then came a rough binding on both ship´s sides to get an even pull on both directions. As I had reinforced the mast well with a wooden rod at the time, there was no movement in any direction. It still looks wild, but it does the job.





To stabilize the rigging further further, I inserted the futtock stave. This stave is served over its entire length, in the original its a rope slightly thinner than the shroud, for the modeI I chose a core of 0.5 mm brass wire for stability reasons.

The official calculation is slightly different, but by analogy the following measure gives the same figures: Distance upper edge of cross tree to lower edge of mast cap ...



... is the same as the upper edge of the cross tree to the futtock stave.



Once the futtock stave was in place the "white glue serving" was also brought to the correct length.



Afterwards, I will continue the serving evenly below the sausage by a few millimetres and also use black paint to ensure a uniform appearance. At the moment only the outer shrouds are attached so that the other shrouds can still work. Nevertheless, this already stiffens the whole construction.

This also allowed me to start tidying up the dead eyes. Four seizings for the dead eye in the shroud, and crossing of the lanyard on the back of the dead eye and tied to the side after a few windings.





And then it's on to the happy dead eye tying http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif

XXXDAn

Edited September 21 by dafi
buttock stave to futtock stave ;-)

[dafi]

Here you can clearly see the difference between the wooden dead eyes from the early stages of my model and the new printed ones at the top of the shroud.

With the wooden dead eyes, I had to close the unsymmetrical holes and re-drill them. It was a lot of work. In addition, the lower dead eyes have an incorrect all-round groove: As with the upper dead eyes, this is wide to accommodate the heavy shroud. For the lower dead eyes, however, the groove should be significantly narrower, i.e. only a slot, which only had to accommodate the thinner iron fitting.



The appearance is also more even.



In addition, the groove is not circumferential, but interrupted in the area of the connection to the iron or shroud. This also prevents the juffer from rotating. And even a careless model builder like me gets a subtle hint from the resulting bulge in the shroud if he is about to bind the dead eye the wrong way round ...



In the picture you can see the comparison of the lower dead eye on the left with the narrow groove and on the right the upper one with the wide groove.

XXXDAn

[druxey]

Nice work and detailing of the deadeyes in particular - a detail seldom seen even in larger scale models. However, the item across the shrouds is called a futtock stave and should be trimmed just outside the shrouds. A buttock is entirely different!

[dafi]

Thank you for the feedback druxey, very appreciated!

 

The futtock staves will only be trimmed once all the shrouds are in place and fixed, in case I need to reposition them for any reason.

 

And for the spelling, I first had futtock but when double checking my translation in Marquardt german edition*** his translation for the term was with a "b" in the start to my great surprise. So I just found a spelling mistake in this classic 🙂

 

XXXDAn

 

***PS:

And it is a book dear to me, as the copy I use has a personal dedication from him to me, as I helped him with his original homepage back then 🙂

https://karl-heinz-marquardt.com/

 

PPS: I corrected the wrong spelling. A buttock stave is actually an expression existing in german regarding a stiff person, one says he/she has a b...

Edited September 21 by dafi

[dafi]

Slowly and carefully we went on, and then the time had come ...





... both sides of the deadeyes were integrated into the shrouds and tidied up. Final alignment of the deadeyes angle comes when I tighten the lanyards.

The angle is also almost right. I mean the mast, of course, the fighting top is hanging so crooked on purpose http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif



I now also have a good system for tying in the deadeyes.

Materials, 1 set of upper deadeyes starboard and port, a cable 0.9 mm, lanyards with half of it 0.45 mm and the seizings with 0.15 mm.



First assign all shrouds to the lower deadeyes. Secure with an auxiliary thread.

It will then look like what you have already seen.





For the sake of clarity, we will now continue with a single shroud.



The deadeyes are easy to hold with pointed tweezers, the ends should ideally protrude at the back.



A cardboard template on the chain board helps to maintain the correct height. One hand holds the shroud in the correct line to the lower target deadeye, a micro portion of superglue is placed at 3 o'clock in the groove of the deadeye, and by placing the protruding tips of the tweezers on the top edge of the template, the deadeye is pressed against the shroud at the correct angle of rotation.



Then, if necessary, apply a micro portion of superglue at 9 o'clock and position the free end behind the shroud.



Then close the eye with 2 knots. A little space must be left between the deadeye and the knot, as in a later phase 3-4 more knots must be added to the eye and the thicker lanyard must also be passed through there. I don't glue the two knots at this stage because I can still correct the eye if necessary.



Then the lower seizing of the 3 ones of the free end is secured and aligned. Depending on the era and nation, the shroud and free end either run in mirror image or asymmetrically with the shroud directed towards the center of the deadeye and the free end running out tangentially and then tied on at the top.



And then the lanyard can already be integrated and provisionally fixed above.



Only when all the shrouds have been fitted in this way will the remaining turns on the eye and the 3 upper seizings be completed, see above.

The final step will be to bring the lanyard forward over the deadeye under the knpt and tie it on above.

It actually went quite quickly, was looking even enough and, above all, the potential for frustration was manageable.

XXXDAn

[dafi]

This was the last stand, the deadeyes tied into the shroud and the lanyards threaded in but still loose.



The next step was to pull the lanyards through over the deadeye and under the shroud eye. I always use a threader from my sewing supplies, it's simply the best help for this.



Then, when wrapping the lanyard around the shroud, pass it under the last row of yarn from the deadeye, so that it clamps itself, then make 5 more turns and tie the end to the shroud.



Yay, another milestone victory!

As my shrouds are slightly elastic, I also used this to adjust the upper deadeyes a little when tensioning the lanyards. I don't like it completely leveled anyway, as you can also see in the originals and in contemporary models that the different elasticity of the manually made ropes leads to different lengths of the shrouds when tensioning, and thus to slightly varying heights of the deadeyes.

XXXDAn

[dafi]

Objection your honor! Not Ship-Shape! Not Bristol Fashion!

Somehow I remembered that the free ends of the deadeye lanyards were tied up that high. I searched for a while to see what reference I had for the high-tie - but I couldn't find anything that had got me there. The old section model didn't look like that either. That's why I got protest elsewhere, which I had nothing to counter except for: Demolition!



Fortunately, I only use very little glue thanks to my fine glue nozzles 🙂

It was still a fiddle to get the stuff out of the rope. But now it actually looks much neater.

XXXDAn

[JerryTodd]

This help?

The lanyard is hitched in the space between the bight of the shroud and the upper deadeye.  That's what basically ties it off.  the remaining is given a few wraps around the shroud, and the tail seized to it just to do something with the loose end.  There's good chance of a lanyard breaking or being cut on a warship, and having that excess can save time in repair, not to mention the method of taking up tension on them requires a bit of length to set up.

 

I'm sure Victory was kept very prim and proper, being an admiral was aboard

At least you didn't do this...

 

Edited October 3 by JerryTodd

[dafi]

Wonderful picture !!!

 

  🙂 🙂 🙂

 

Thank you for the comment. This is the Pettersen drawing, I realised already having a seizing too much. I remembered 3 seizings, but forgot that the eye seizing is counted with it. I will correct this with the next ones. But in Pettersen the seizing is not complete either, the middle turns are missing.

 

XXXDAn

[dafi]

Once the shrouds are tightened, the futtock staves could be fixed for good. Fortunately, I had only tacked them on so far, as the position was visibly out of line after the shrouds had been tensioned.

The last status was this:



To align the futtock staves, I placed crosspieces on the protrusions of the two staves and was thus able to adjust them well.



Then the futtock staves and the shrouds were knotted together and the overhang cut off.



It is amazing how much these futtock staves contribute to the stability of the shrouds, even in a model.

XXXDAn

 

Edited October 9 by dafi

[dafi]

And the next stage was already on the agenda, I had just glued the fightig top onto the trestle trees when I remembered all the blocks that were needed underneath ...

... so I quickly tore the fightig top off and removed the glue residue. Well, that's the way it always goes with me.

At least 4 small single blocks for the leech line and two double blocks for the buntlines have to go under there. But as I can't say for sure that that's all there is - as always, there are very many different sources - I have also fitted the other suspension points with blocks. But cutting them off is always easier than retrofitting them once all other things are installed.

Based on the tests I had already presented some time ago, the first block still took just as long as the other eleven. But I had to develop a good strategy for them.

First, I pressed the block onto a needle as usual and stropped it in. I secured the strop well with glue and only cut off the short end of the strop, but not the seizing ends.



Then tie the remaining long leg with the seizing as a loop. The seizing has a double knot, but is not glued so that the loop can move.



A thin thread with slip-through protection is passed through the hole from above ...



... and threads the loop of the block on the underside and ...



... pulls the loop onto the top and secure it temporarily with a wire hook.



Then pull the long leg on the underside to bring the block to the correct length.



Then carefully pull out the wire on the upper side, insert the toggle and tighten it again from below.



Now a drop of glue on the through hole and knot and neaten everything up. Done.



A little hint in between: And always take documentary photos of the rope thicknesses http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif



And the result looks like this.







And the exciting moment, the fightig top can finally really be glued in http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif









And then finally: another milestone reached! Even my little Midshipman is happy.



XXXDAn

[dafi]

Next, I took care of the cleats for the hangers of the jeer blocks. In Portsmouth they are in the form of a bracket. All other literature that does not base on the restored ship show a shoulder piece.
So the brackets from my printed parts go into the bin. Its up to the shoulder



I took the opportunity to determine the length of the hangers, as I don't know how they will be accessible later.



But more on the jeers later.

And then it's finally its turn, the top mast.



Placed in front of the mast, it is threaded through the trestle trees of the fighting top and pulled upwards using 2 pulleys in the foot.



Here are some older pictures. The top gallant mast was also raised in this way, it is basically a very simple telescopic lift.







XXXDAn