HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype

[Stuntflyer]

Wonderful work as usual, Chuck. It's great to see where I will eventually be going.

 

Mike

[GuntherMT]

Great looking ship!

 

Out of curiosity, what is the 'usual method' for your sheaves?  Drill holes and then connect them with a cut-down area?  That's really the only way I know of to do a simulated sheave (rather than drilling a hole from the side and actually inserting a pulley of some kind), but wondering if there is another method.  Yours look great.

[Chuck]

Yupp,  Thats how I do it.   Then the slot is rounded off into the holes so the sheave actually looks rounded.  To finish it off I use a sharp pencil to darken the sheave.

[pete48]

Beautiful Boat Chuck, She looks very sweet. just gorgeous

 

Best Regards,

Pete

[alde]

Chuck,

 

I am pretty new to ship modeling and have started my second build and am about half way through reading this build log. It's seeing beautiful builds like this that got me interested in the hobby. When the plan and bulkhead set is available again I will be ordering it to put aside for when I feel I can do it justice. As you suggested in your log, I need to learn to slow down and take my time. It's not a race to see how many ships we can build. 

 

Al

Edited March 1, 2016 by alde

[Chuck]

Thank you very much

 

I decided to make one carronade with all of the details.  This way I could find out what is in store for me.  Now I can more comfortably finish up the remaining 11 guns.

 

I will describe how with a step-by-step once I get started.  But for now..here is what the completed gun looks like.  I also finished making the belaying pins.  They were made from boxwood.  I dislike the brass belaying pins available because they are just the wrong proportions.  With only about 16 pins needed I decided to make my own.  If you are a heavy handed rigger....someone who likes to pull theit rigging lines super tight like a guitar string then you should probably stick to the brass.  Otherwise give this a try.

 

I just chucked up a thin boxwood strip in my dremel and went to work.  The same method was used to make the quoin handle for the carriages. Image is below.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chuck

 

 

[Jim Lad]

Very nice looking gun, Chuck.  I'm looking forward to your description of its construction.

 

John

[alde]

That's so cool. I love the snub-nose cannon. Did you use a needle fine to cut the belaying pin/quoin?

Edited March 3, 2016 by alde

[Chuck]

Yes I did...and a simple sanding stick.  I started with a square stick of boxwood 3/64" x 3/64".  It actually goes pretty quick once you get into it.

 

Chuck

[GuntherMT]

The carronade looks sort of funny on a regular gun carriage. Just not what we are used to seeing.

 

Great job on it.

[Chuck]

Most of the revenue cutters had them this wayafter 1800 or even a weirder looking carriage.  This was the most normal..

 

Here is a plan detail of ZAZ6992 which actually says its for carronades on revenue cutters circa 1812.  Its a little weird but its one of those things that make it interesting.  This is from the NMM collection.  

 

 

 

[Chuck]

The carriages on the contemporary model in the Rogers collection is very similar except for the super tiny trucks.   I pretty much used the plan I showed which is a really good fit and more traditional.  But there are many many variations.  I would love to see someone have a go at the more wacky concepts used on revenue cutters.  There are plenty.

 

[whaynes]

Hi, Guys. I'm new to this forum, but have been following most of the Cheerful builds.  I've just acquired Chuck's "pre-kit" and ordered lumber from Crown Timberyard.  I started with the Sultana kit then moved on to Corel's Unicorn [wasn't real satisfied with results-gave it away] and lastly the old Bluejacket plank on frame America. Looking forward to this challenge.  Anyway, a couple of questions, if I may.  What is "wipe-on Poly"? and where is a good source for bulk small drill bits?  Looks like I may need a few.  Thanks for the help.

                                         Walt Haynes

[Chuck]

Drillbitsunlimited.com

 

 

And home depot or Lowes for MinWax wipe-On Poly  satin finish

 

     

 

Chuck

[whaynes]

Thanks, heading there tomorrow.

                  Walt

[dvm27]

Very convincing iron-like finish on the carronade, Chuck. Look forward to your finishing technique details.

[Chuck]

Thanks guys 

 

Greg,  that is a great place to start.  First the guns were airbrushed black using Badger Airbrush paint.   But just going with straight black is not good enough.  The guns and other metalwork needs to be different in appearance / texture than the wood elements painted black.  If for nothing else but to add some more interest.  Straight black is to harsh and leaves a lot to be desired.

 

You can go with a warm hue or a cool hue.  I decided on the warmer.  I then brushed on very sparingly some weathering powder.  The goal here isnt to make it look like a rusty heap.  Its just to change the surface appearance.  As quickly as it was applied with a soft brush it was buffed off almost entirely with the same soft brush.  It changes the color only slightly BUT it does also change the surface texture making it noticeably different than other black painted parts.  I use this technique on all of the "metal" parts on the model even if they arent made from metal.  It works quite well.  For the guns it really makes the reinforcing rings stand out as well as the other details.   But remember you have to buff it off.

 

Now I am not using these weathering powders for anything else....I have no intention of making the model look weathered.  In most cases where I see folks weathering .....it is over done and everything looks like a junk ship rusting out.  Its just too much.  But if used sparingly it can be very effective.  Just my opinion of course.

 

I use the MicraMark weathering powders and the set contains a small jar of Rusty brown and if you are going cooler you could use Grimy Gray or even a dark  blue.  All of the guns are completed with this technique below and waiting to be mounted on their carriages.   I store them like this until needed.   Now to build those carriages!!!

 

 

 

The same technique was used on the chainplates.  You can see how the powder makes the Black noticeably different than the painted wales.   Before the application it looked exactly the same.    Now its different but very subtle.  The key is NOT to over do it and get carried away.  

 

[Erik W]

Nice Chuck.  I was wondering how you got the textured look on that first carronade.  The weathering powder also really helps the monograms stand out.

 

Erik

[KenW]

Your gun barrels look impressive.

One problem I have, is that it seems no matter how many coats of paint I apply to the metal barrels, whenever I touch the barrel, some paint is removed and the brass color shows.  Is that due to the paint I use?  Or, do I need to apply more coats?  I don't use an air brush.

Thanks.

[Chuck]

First thing you need to do is wash the guns thoroughly and get any oils or residue off of them.   Then you really should prime them first.  Then apply paint.   I didnt prime these but I am also very careful not to handle them too much at all.   But the paint sometimes does come off but not as much as I have seen in the past.   I have also taken very fine steel wool and cleaned them before painting. It makes the paint adhere better.  But rinse them off afterwards.  I didnt do that either this time but if handled gently its not a problem.

[Erik W]

Some advice I've found that works from the model railroad world is to bake the painted brass part.  I've done this simply by letting the painted brass sit about an inch under a hot light bulb for about 10 minutes.  The light bulb should generate enough heat that the part is hot to the touch.  Do NOT use this technique though for any brass parts that have been soldered (it may pop the solder joint), or have plastic parts attached.  For Chuck's carronades, if they have the wood monograms glued on, you may want to test this technique on one before you do the whole batch. Also, as Chuck said, to avoid paint flaking off, if at all possible, avoid handling the parts once painted.

 

Erik

[KenW]

Thanks.

I will try all of these techniques.

[Chuck]

To begin making the carriages,  I first removed the laser char from the mini-kit pieces.  Even just making the four remaining carriages for the port side takes considerable time.  I used a sanding stick and there are many pieces.  

 

In addition,  the outside ends of the axles were rounding off and all of the pieces were painted red ahead of time.  

 

Finally I decided to make a small jig to make assembly easier.   You can see it in the photos and its simple to make.

 

Step one was placing the axles into the jig.

 

Then the two pieces ....the transom was added atop the front axle and another strip was added across the rear axle.  Note how the front axle is shorter than the rear axle.

 

 

Step two was when I added the sides (brackets) to the carriage while they were in the jig.   The carriage was removed and a length of 24 gauge black wire was pushed through the holes in the sides of the bracket.  The carriage bed will sit on top of this eventually.  The wire is snipped off so each end stands a little proud of the surface.  

 

To finish of step two the wheels (trucks) were put into position.

 

  

 

Now to finish these four carriages off....the next steps will be shown soon.

 

Chuck

[GLakie]

Very clever design for the jig Chuck!   Am I right in assuming the notches for the trunnions are left with the laser-char there for a better fit?

[Chuck]

Yes and since they will be covered it doesnt make sense to mess with them.

 

Chuck

[GLakie]

Thanks Chuck! 

[Chuck]

The next step was to add the carriage bed and on top of that add the quoin.  I didnt add the quoin handle yet because I always break those.  So they will be the last bits to be completed.

 

 

In that same photo you will also see the metal work is completed.  The brackets (sides) were actually made in two pieces and held together with long bolts through both top to bottom.   Even though these are one piece the two bolts visible were simulated.   I used 28 gauge wire.  After inserting them into the holes I cut them so they stood proud of the surface.  There are the eyebolts on the aft side for the tackle.  These were made from 28 gauge wire as well.

 

On the sides of each bracket there is also a bolt through to the transom.  For this I used 24 gauge black wire.  Finally one more eyebolt was added to the side for the tackle.  I will not add the eyebolt and ring for the breech rope yet because its easier to do that while rigging the breech rope.  But I did drill the holes for them.  That is an absolute must.

 

 

Finally some images of the cannon placed on each carriage.  The trunnion cap was just made with some heavy paper painted to match th emetal.  Then I added a small length of 28 gauge wire to simulate the hinge for the trunnion cap.  I wont be adding any chains or other small details.  I dont think they look very good at this scale unless they are done perfectly.  Rather than try and become a "kitchen sink" modeler,  I prefer to simplify and concentrate on neatness and execution.  I know I wouldnt do it justice. 

 

 

 

 

Now to begin the other five carronades for the other side....YIKES 

[Jack12477]

Nicely done, Chuck

[dvm27]

Neat as a pin, Chuck! I'm sure you've researched it, but the bright trucks look a bit jarring next to the painted carriages. Is this artistic license or have you seen similar carriages on other models?

[GLakie]

They turned out excellent Chuck, and the metal finish on the barrels looks so realistic!