Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW

[sfotinos]

So I have decided that a Byrnes is in order.

 

For those of you that have them, did everyone purchase the "deluxe" saw? Meaning with the tilting table, micrometer stop, extended fences? Basically a saw with all the works? Or is the best bet just getting the saw?

 

Also where are you purchasing blades?

 

Let me know.

 

Thanks

 

Shawn

[mtaylor]

Shawn,

 

I can only answer one of your questions:  Blades are from Thurston.  http://www.thurstonmfg.com/cut-off-saws.html

 

And if you haven't done so, head here for some excellent tips: http://www.hobbymillusa.com/byrnes-saw-operation.php

[Roman]

So I have decided that a Byrnes is in order.

 

For those of you that have them, did everyone purchase the "deluxe" saw? Meaning with the tilting table, micrometer stop, extended fences? Basically a saw with all the works? Or is the best bet just getting the saw?

 

Also where are you purchasing blades?

 

Let me know.

 

Thanks

 

Shawn

Shawn, get as much saw as you can afford. Considering that Byrnes makes such a fine tool, look at it as an investment. I have all but the tilt table and it is in my short wanted list. What you think you will not use today, who knows you may end up using it or not in the future; however you will have a complete Byrnes machine that is truly unique. I do not think you will ever lose your money on these and to someone else, it will only make it more desirable that you have the complete Byrnes table saw; in case you decide to sell it or will it to your children. As Mark said the blades are made by Thurston but you can get them from Byrnes.

 

 

Roman

Edited December 29, 2014 by Roman

[GLakie]

Like Roman said. Sooner or later, you'll find a use for the extras, so get what you can swing now.  I ordered everything except the miter-extension and the tilt-table, but those things are definitely on the list of future purchases. In fact, I've already come up with a use for the tilt-table. Gonna test it for cutting the bevel in the Connie's waterways. 

 

Cheers and Happy New Year to everybody!

[rtropp]

I guess I run counter to the majority opinion.

I have the Byrnes Saw and did not go overboard buying extras for the saw. I did get the extended rip fence and a few zero clearance inserts to match the various blades used, but I consider those part of every day operation.   I had decided to wait until I had a need, and skills, before spending a couple hundred dollars on the rest of it.  So far the need has not come up as so far I have other tools that fill in, i.e., micrometer, brass spacers, etc.

So instead I used the money to buy the Byrnes thickness sander which has already gotten a fair amount of use.

 

Richard

Edited December 29, 2014 by rtropp

[Roman]

Richard, I think your opinion is very much in line with most of us. The Byrnes tilt table is a relatively new thing compared to the saw itself. When I first purchased mine it was not available but I did get the micrometer and the fence extension. The taper attachment and a handful of blades came later. I cannot imagine most owners of the Byrnes saw did any different. It is fair to say; grow the machine as your needs grow! Yet it is a good thing if you have the means to get the whole kit in one shot.

 

 

Roman

[mikeaidanh]

i have used the tilt table to cut the angles on the gun port hatches for my gun deck cross section. The kit solution was to make them up from three laminates and file the bevels. Sod that for a game of soldiers! Mine were made from solid and cut on the Byrnes saw. Thank you Jim.

Mike. 

[kurtvd19]

I have the extended fence option and use it most of the time. 

I got my saw long ago before the tilt away fence was std. so I retrofitted it by getting the new ***'y from Jim and returning the original.  Anybody with an older version should get this upgrade - in my opinion. 

I have the tilting table and have actually used it very little.  However, it was a life saver when I had to cut a bunch of  1/2 x 3/32 strips with 45 degree bevels on the long edges for a set of barge covers for a 1/72 model barge for a legal job on a tight schedule and the tilt table paid for itself on the time saved vs sanding accurate angles on about 6 ft of strip wood. 

The tilt table is a bit awkward to use unless you cut some wedges to match the angle you are cutting and put these wedges under the saw base making the table level with the bench top - in effect, tilting the saw (this tip came from Jim).

Kurt

[flying_dutchman2]

Here is a website that sells a drill press with all types of accessories and the material is made of aluminum and is reasonably priced.  Would love to have this.  It accepts any dremel.

http://www.vanda-layindustries.com/

Marc

[GLakie]

Oh great! Just had to show me something else I just can't live without now huh?      Something else to add to the list now. Better go out and find more beads and baubles for the Admiral.  

 

Cheers   

[flying_dutchman2]

This is a tool I will get as there are so many things I can do with. Some may say that the dremel motor does not have enough HP, but for my that is Ok. I like all the milling attachments for it.

 

Last night I bought the drill press stand from Dremel on ebay. I wonder if there are any milling accessories available. I researched this but cannot find anything. It is also possible I am looking in the wrong place. But if it isn't available I will get this tool.

Marc

[GLakie]

Last night I bought the drill press stand from Dremel on ebay. I wonder if there are any milling accessories available. I researched this but cannot find anything. It is also possible I am looking in the wrong place. But if it isn't available I will get this tool.

Marc

Might as well take the plunge then Marc. As far as I know there are no extra attachments for the Workstation.  But after thinking about it for a minute, think I will just get the Dremmel one and get a small drill press and throw an X-Y attachment on it. 

 

Cheers and have a Happy New Year

[flying_dutchman2]

Might as well take the plunge then Marc. As far as I know there are no extra attachments for the Workstation.  But after thinking about it for a minute, think I will just get the Dremmel one and get a small drill press and throw an X-Y attachment on it. 

 

Cheers and have a Happy New Year

I just looked at it again and I like it and yes, the X-Y attachment is a must, will read up on it more. What I like about it that it is made of Aluminum as well (just like the Byrnes tools). This is more in my price range and I can use it for other hobbies as well.

 

Marc

[GLakie]

Can't speak for anyone else, but for my purposes, it will only be used for wood. Light use only. 

 

Cheers 

[captainbob]

  Just remember guys that the dremel and other Rotary tools are made to take downward presure not sideways, where as mills will take both,

 

  best regards John.

I agree a mill is better but doesn't a cut off blade on the Dremel cause a sideways force?

 

Bob

[Yambo]

I agree a mill is better but doesn't a cut off blade on the Dremel cause a sideways force?

 

Bob

 

It does, but it's always good to remember to let the cutting tool do the work and not apply too much pressure - whether it be cut off discs, saws or sandpaper.

[captainbob]

It does, but it's always good to remember to let the cutting tool do the work and not apply too much pressure - whether it be cut off discs, saws or sandpaper.

 

Or mill bitt.

 

Bob

[flying_dutchman2]

As for the japanese saws, the Vaughan saws are quite good.   Have a look at the site here, and also notice the 'Perfect Guide' on the last page. I picked up a returned one (with the saw too) on Amazon for $25.  It works very well for finish carpentry such as moldings.  I think I'm going to modify it with the magnetic tape too because it will make it easier to use and reduce the chance of damaging the sawblade.

 

http://www.vaughanmfg.com/shopping/Departments/Bear-Saw-Hand-Saws.aspx?sortorder=1&page=1

I went to the Vaughan and purchased three Bear Hand saws (Japanese saws). Fine, Med & Coarse TPI. I am sold. Have used it one various projects. You get a straight cut downwards, no getting stuck in the wood. I let the saw blade do the sawing, all I do is move the saw forward and backwards.

[in forestry - graduate school - when I taught the timber harvesting classes, first rule of the first day: Hold the chainsaw on the angle you want a cut and let the chain do the job. You have to have a sharp chain to do this]

 

I want to thank you for the suggestion. I am very happy with them

Marc

[t5956ws]

Maybe this is off topic but how does anyone think the new "Microlux digital" stack up against the Byrnes table saws? Pricing is comparable. Almost $400 us.

[gjdale]

If the price is comparable, go with the Byrnes. You won't regret it! If the price is not comparable, go with the Byrnes. You won't regret it!

[GLakie]

Just got the notification from Donna that mine's on the truck and scheduled for delivery sometime Wednesday. 

 

Cheers

[shihawk]

Lucky sod !!!!!,,Enjoy  

[Bob Blarney]

Having thought it over, I think I could get by without it, if I'm not doing production work.  For most modelers, speed/convenience of production is not so important as the finished piece of 'lumber'.

 

I'll see if I can develop handtool methods that could work, with reasonable precision.  What are the most usual stock dimensions of model 'lumber'?  Is it about 12-16" long, 3/4" thick, and about 3/32" thick?  What's the thinnest lumber needed?

[GLakie]

Lucky sod !!!!!,,Enjoy  

Oh I don't know about luck as it was a couple months of saving my pennies so I could make it happen. "All good things----" right? I fully plan to be developing efficient hand-tool operations for most of my model-making other than milling planks and a little joinery cutting. Gotta have something to do when the power goes out. 

 

Cheers 

[mtaylor]

Having thought it over, I think I could get by without it, if I'm not doing production work.  For most modelers, speed/convenience of production is not so important as the finished piece of 'lumber'.

 

I'll see if I can develop handtool methods that could work, with reasonable precision.  What are the most usual stock dimensions of model 'lumber'?  Is it about 12-16" long, 3/4" thick, and about 3/32" thick?  What's the thinnest lumber needed?

 

Bob,

I'm milling planking... 1/16 X 1/8, 1/32 X 1/8 and 3/32 X 3/16 (all dimensions in inches).  I'm using my table saw as there isn't any other way to do this that I can see.  The wood is ebony and swiss pear. 

 

As much use as my MicroLux has had, if I were buying a new saw today, it would be a Byrnes.  Just for the precision.   There a coupe of problems with the MicroLux.. That little motor gets really hot in production type sawing.  I usually take a break every 15 minutes or so to let it cool by running it for 5 minutes under no load.  I guess I'm just being finicky on that.   But the other hang up is the movable arbor.  If lets you cut angles.  I'm not sure about the new version, but on the old one, the guage isn't accurate and setting it for 0 degrees or an angle requires a bit of fiddling.  Same for the mitre.. Mines off 1/2 degree.  Not much until you're trying to cut wood to butt up against another piece. like a coaming.  I've had to do a fair amount of "bashing" and calibrating of the thing that I wouldn't have had to with a Byrnes.

[shihawk]

Glakie , your right i should not call it luck , you had the b---s to go ahead and buy it ,where as i,m fuffing about wondering if i will use or need it . Of -course i,ll use it and needing it probably does,nt really  come in to it . I won,t use it every day or even every week but then what tool can boast that, and when i need to cut something accurate i,ll have it there . I probably should not have called you a sod either but over here it,s just a saying ,i hope you took it the way it was meant      And i still think it looks great even i never use it ??

 

Boyd 

[GLakie]

Hey no harm, no foul, Boyd. I've been called a lot worse.  As far as needing it, it's just a preference to replace all of the basswood on the Connie, and in this case, will be a lot of milling. 

 

Cheers 

[Bob Blarney]

Hmm, it seems that I've created a challenge for myself.   Well ok, but right now I'm installing new arbor bearings in a 1956 Yates American table saw - a battleship-quality instrument

 

But what I'll tell you about what I've noticed, is that although a tablesaw is wonderful, but other times it's a waste of time to set up and it blows dust everywhere.  I'd guess that for many modelers, that they have limited space to pursue the craft, and maybe they'd like to enjoy the craft with other persons in the room, who might not be enthusiastic or comfortable in a big shop environment. 

Edited January 11, 2015 by Bob Blarney

[dgbot]

When I use mine I do not get much dust it has been a year since I have used it.  When I go back to Chicago I will be wearing a dust mask and use a vacuum to take care of the dust.  Dust removal is important.  If you are catching either a cold or from something else.  You should be careful.  

David B

Edited January 11, 2015 by dgbot

[GLakie]

Dust removal is very important. Especially here in my place as I'll be doing all my milling and modeling in my apartment. I have a very efficient shop vac with a 5 horse motor and adapters for almost all of my power tools, and this thing would suck a golf-ball through a garden-hose. When I run my Bosch 5 in random orbit, the dust left behind is virtually zero. I get way more dust in the place from hand-sanding alone. Also noise isn't an issue because the walls are sound-proofed and all the floors are 1 foot thick concrete. 

 

Cheers