double planking a hull

[pugman11]

I am still awaiting my backorder of US Brig Syren msg is there any advantage to be gained by double planking her hull my first attempt at prob working very slowly ohms victory heller 1/100 instructions for this model a nightmare

[rtropp]

Keep in mind that most of the hull is covered in copper plates.

Richard

[wq3296]

Greetings pug...

 

I see no advantage. Plus, the added hull thickness of the second planking layer may bugger other aspects of the overall model design. As was pointed out, much of the lower hull will be cooper plated, so any "irregularities" will be covered up. There is nothing wrong or substandard about a single layer of planking. In fact real wooden ships typically had a single layer of planking. Why screw with it?

 

wq3296

[Mike Dowling]

So why do so many boat kits insist on double planking ?

[CaptainSteve]

Based on my personal experience, it may be because kit makers provide absolutely no instructions on planking ... meaning complete newbs will end up with a first planking run which roughly resembles a dog's breakfast.

 

The second planking, usually with veneer strips (or copper plates), will look a lot better.

Edited January 25, 2015 by CaptainSteve

[jwvolz]

So why do so many boat kits insist on double planking ?

Many  builders want a POB look with individual planks visible, but most double planked kits have too big a span between bulkheads to be easily single planked. Double planking also offers those that prefer a "second chance" to rectify errors on the first planking. 

[HIPEXEC]

The second layer of planks is to cover all the mistakes you'll make on the first layer. On my second build....I took my time with the first layer and did not need the veneer. Good luck!

[Jaager]

In most POB kits, the spacing of the body moulds are too far apart to support a thin single run of planking.  A first layer of what looks to be poor quality wood (open pore, course grain, easy to splinter) is supposed to provide what is essentially a simulation of a solid hull to receive the layer of outer planking.  Even with this, it would be useful to glue laminations of veneer to the inside of the first layer (perpendicular to the run of planking)(at a scale width of 6-12 inches)(laminate in place) to receive the treenails of the actual planking. Before the mid 17th century (at least) the futtocks were fit to the inside of the planking instead of the reverse later.

 

If you wish a single layer:

the actual planks would probably need to be thicker than what is provided.

the space between the moulds should have support material (at the least 50% wood with the open space not wide).

[hornet]

All of the above are excellent reasons for using the recommended double layer of planking on your first (and maybe even more builds after that!!) Hull planking is a skill that, in my opinion, takes a lot of practise to perfect. I sometimes wonder how many half planked HMS Victory's are out there in hobby land because a beginner became frustrated and lost interest. I am still learning tricks when planking even after 10 builds!!!! Although I have seen many excellent 'first attempts' on this forum, I think you should take very opportunity to practise. This means having a go at double planking. .

[Cricket]

Hi pugman11, I was not considering a second planking of my build of the America (Americas Cup 1851) from Constructo as I felt I did a decent job of the first planking. In fact, I was ready to just move on to the water line and paint. Then I was reading up in Ship Modeling Simplified that to do a second planking, and make it possibly look better, apply some modelers paste, allow it to dry, sand smooth, then use an electric plank bender along with carpenters and acc glue to apply the second plank members. I decided to do the second planking, and purchased some Liquitex modeling paste as recommended by the book. I applied and let dry. Sanded smooth, and now I am second guessing my decision. The modeling paste is white, and now I'm afraid if my second planking layer isn't perfect I will see white first planking between the second planking stripes.

I'm kinda at a loss here. Has anyone ever used the modeling paste before applying the second layer of planking? There is nothing in the instructions concerning the second layer. I guess they put it in the kit as a value add thing or something, but no instructions on what to do with it.

I guess if it all goes wrong, I can hack it into some kind of cargo plane with mast and rigging.

[jbshan]

The pic is my second hull, single plank.  This is Lexington, from the Lumberyard's timbering set, to go with the series in Ships in Scale.  The bulkheads are fairly close together.  The dark strakes are ebony, the port strakes are swiss pear, below the wale is boxwood.  There was a little plank separation because of humidity issues, it looks better now that time and matte varnish have had a chance to work.

 

 

You have to be patient, there are books you can get to give you some step-by-step.

 

Joel Sanborn

[mtaylor]

Cricket,

 

The simple answer is stain or paint the filler (test and re-test on scrap before doing the actual model).  This will help hide any planking errors.

[Cricket]

Thanks Mark. It's all fun and a learning experience.

[NenadM]

From my small experience... second veneer layer allow you to make planks more narrow and to be more in scale than planks from first layer

Edited February 5, 2015 by Nenad M

[Jonesey]

Sorry to resurrect this thread ,but if you do decide to double plank (as I intend to do), is it necessary to allows sufficient width in the rabbet for both layers?

 

Thanks,

 

Jonesey

[hornet]

Jbshan, you mention `plank separation' in your post regarding single layer of planking. My first build (over 30 years ago) was the Aeropiccola `Golden Hind.' It was single planked. The book `Period Model Boat Manual' which I bought at the time (don't know if it is still in print or not) recommended `caulking ' the inside of the hull to prevent this happening. This was done by layering bandage dressing `gauze' into the interior of the hull and coating with thinned wood glue. It was a similar method to fibreglassing.  I used the method and after 30 years still no cracking or plank separation. See pics below.

 

 

extract from `Period Model Boat Manual'

 

 

Hull of the `Golden Hind' 33 years after construction (no plank separation)