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  1. Hi Geoff With pine (provided you are not cutting through any knots) I would say cut the depth of the diameter and you will be OK i.e. 3mm deep for 3mm diameter etc.I would not go any deeper than 1mm for a 1mm cutter,you are more likely to snap the cutter rather than burn it out in this instance.I would halve this rule for harder woods Kind Regards Nigel
  2. Whilst working away on my Fairmount Alpine RC build I am currently researching what will be a massive RC build.I am planning on building the Oleg Strashnov crane vessel from scratch. After scouring the net and finding lots of info and drawings,I thought why not and emailed an enquiry to Seaway Heavy lifting,the vessels owners,via Subsea7 in Aberdeen.The result landed yesterday via PDF attachments.Some seriously detailed shipyard drawings and the offer for any further assistance if needed.Currently awaiting frame station drawings now Just goes to show,you don't know if you don't ask and all this for free,I can print everything out on AO sheets at work Kind Regards Nigel P.S.No pics,I would be into serious copyright infringement
  3. A huge congratulations Daniel I am certain that with Mamoli's choice of some not to common subjects coupled with your great kit design ability,the models will be great sellers Kind Regards Nigel
  4. Sorted it Turns out the 'ignore signatures' box had been ticked.Dunno how,never even spotted the ignore preference section Kind Regards Nigel
  5. Mmm I wonder if it is the settings at my end then Mark?
  6. What has happened to everybodies signatures?Mine,along with everyone elses seems to have disappeared Kind Regards Nigel
  7. Wonderful work Igor The model looks like that of Roland Vlahovic Kind Regards Nigel
  8. Excellent work Daniel I feel a special order for my Nuestra Senora coming in the future,for my model though,I would be the odd one out and choose D Kind Regards Nigel
  9. After looking at pics of your kit,i would say possibly 3 sheets for the second planking plus the kit strips.There is a possible pitfall to this,I personally think you will struggle to match the supplied walnut.The Amati walnut is a European variety and I can't find sheet stock to match it and I live in Europe. My advice would be to use the supplied kit first planking and maybe buy some sheet stock for the bow if you are determined to spill the first layer.I would then give serious thought to replacing the second planking completely.The timber will then match,but also you have the opportunity to change to pear or box.They are both more resilient to breaking than walnut,a problem that can occur when cutting curved shapes(i.e. your planks)out and then bending. Kind Regards Nigel
  10. WOW that is huge,thanks for the link If that is going to be a working model,it needs to be built in a drydock Kind Regards Nigel
  11. I doubt anyone will have these,to my knowledge they were never available seperately and as the Mamoli factory went up in smoke,the only option would be to get a half built model and cannibalise it for them. Personally though,having seen many Mamoli builds,I think these gunports can be more of a curse than a blessing.Your better option would be to make some wooden boxes up and glue one side to the bulkhead.This will make sanding the hull easier and you are not dictated by the tab positions,from what I have seen,rarely do these line up like the manufacturer intended. Kind Regards Nigel
  12. Very much depends on the shape of the bow Dave,for the central section of the hull,the kit planking is adequate,this will follow the slight bend caused by the sheer.You only need to spil the bow area and possibly some of the stern(especially if it has a round tuck).What vessel are you building,that would give a better idea of the shapes involved? Kind Regards Nigel
  13. Hi Dave I ordered the widest sheets of Pear available (75mm) for Nuestra.You can then 'nest'the shaped planks side by side with a small gap to save material.My second planking is only 4mm max wide on Nuestra,but the last one I cut for the bow is probably 40mm wide across the corners!! Kind Regards Nigel
  14. Sounds like a good approach Dave,you haven't mentioned whether your kit is double or single planked?If it is single planked and the bulkheads are quite far apart,you tend to get kinks where you have joins in the strips.Simulated joints is a better approach in this instance.Like Chris rightly says,a scribed line and then drawn in with pencil after the hull is sanded is all that is needed(assuming you are using pencil for your caulking). If I have a plank with a long sweeping taper,I shape in a long strip and then cut to scale length before fitting.This prevents any slight steps in the taper at the joins. As is said frequently,start a log and ask questions if you are unsure.It is easier to advise if there are a sequence of photos to follow and then to work out the next step Kind Regards Nigel
  15. Hi Dave I think that it is necessary to clarify what appearance you are after.You can plank with kit supplied material with tapering and no clinkering HOWEVER the planking will look nothing like the planking on a real ship.You can compensate by edge bending the strip but that has its limitations and it''s effectiveness varies with wood species.This does vary a lot with hull shapes,I am a glutton for punishment and build 3 deckers mainly.These hull shapes are very unforgiving when trying to use parallel strip. As the original would have the wales fitted prior to planking the planking must appear to run inbetween the wales to look authentic.This again compounds the problem that planks need to curve in two directions,quite a lot on some vessels due to the sheer compounded with the hull curving inward. Regarding tapering,it really doesn't matter which side you taper and on the garboard,this piece invariably is anything but straight so there isn't really a tapered side. On my build of Nuestra Senora (the pic Chris has used above)things get even more complex,the hull is divided into bands of planks on the lower hull,but these bands are tweaked to provide a pleasing visual run when viewed from all angles.This does not follow exact ship building practice,but reflects the style that contemporary models were planked,with no stealers or drop planks. Regarding sheet stock,I would wait until your kit arrives to determine exactly what thickness you require. Kind Regards Nigel