TBlack

Scotty,

You got it. The mast actually flairs out at that point, creating a shoulder for the stays to rest on. You can see the continuation of the shoulder indicated by the horizontal line 

on the mast to the left of where your 25 mm dimension stops. At this point, if you glue a couple of wedge shaped pieces on either side of the mast, you should be good to go.

Tom

OK. Two ladders, now two balustrades to finish it off. These will be hand made with some stylist form, so may not exactly match. We'll see.

Chuck,

You once mentioned that the carved pieces will be available in 1:48 scale as well as your 3/8 scale. Is that still the case?

Tom

I've made a ladder. Now my question is, should there be another one on the other side of the companionway to keep the symmetry?

OK, 5 foot door in. Ladder to Q-deck next

John,

You got a nice finish on those ventilators; Kudos!

Tom

18 hours ago, mtaylor said:

I'd opt for a double wide ladder in the center.   I like the idea of the putting the ladder there.  Will there be doorways on either side of the ladder?

Mark,

I had envisioned that below the quarterdeck would look like this:

The center area of the bulkhead is where the ladder and companionway will go. Im going to put the companionway in the center (I've already cut the pieces for that), and the ladder will go to the side.

Tom

I can't use Speedwell as an example for ladder placement. Not enough room, so the center area will have to suffice for a ladder and a companionway.

So that means I only have to make one ladder, but I'll have to make two railings.

Tom

17 hours ago, mtaylor said:

I think you're doing great.  It's not a race so don't sweat "keeping up".

Mark,

Not a race, right! But it is a question of quality and trying to measure up. Besides, according to NRG standards, this model shouldn't be built (being fictional), so I wonder if my membership will be revoked! With Jim's endorsement I'll go with a centered companionway. Notice Speedwell"s arrangement here:

Notice the ladders come down right at the cannon placement. I want to do the same thing.

Next up is to make this bulkhead with companionway. My only references to companionways are Speedwell and Fair American. Speedwell seems a little too fancy for this craft.

If anyone has an idea, let me know.

I'm thinking that the companionway goes in the center which allows for two cabins on either side (Maturin, 1st Lieutenant) before the captain's cabin at the rear.

I want to thank so many of you who are following this modest attempt. As I look at what you are accomplishing, I'm in awe and hope I can keep up.

Tom

I've got a couple of thoughts. they depend on whether you are going to paint over the affected area. If you're not painting, try collecting some sawdust from the wood in that area and mixing it with PVA glue and applying it to the area needing filling. If the area is going to be painted, then use a spackling compound to fill the gaps.

Tom

OK, now I've gotten the red toned down, and applied the below waterline paint. I've elected not to use the copper plates that come with the kit. There is no reference in the

book about the bottom of the ship, and because she is described as being a plain and lumbering craft, I thought copper would be too fancy for her. Besides, it saves a lot of time to paint.

The mizzen has no shrouds? Hard to believe.

Tom

3 hours ago, John Ruy said:

 

Very interesting video to watch the crew working the sails. 

Yes and you gotta be in shape to do it!

Tom

Yes, the cowls and trunks are too small on the model. Away with them! Besides in reality, there are 2 small ones up front, not one in the middle. Otherwise, you've got a beautiful looking model.

TB

It looks like they cap them when underway, so no obstructions. Therefore, how will the model be displayed; underway or stationary?

Tom

5 hours ago, KeithAug said:

Tom - as you rotate them they move closer to the hull - hence they clamp against the hull. If they were concentric they wouldn't do this. In effect they are acting like a cam.

Yes, but you didn't need to do that, did you! You nailed it again! Confidence, my friend, confidence.

TB

Keith says:

That was a bit too close for comfort - about 3/8"

I say:

Looks like you nailed it!

BTW, I don't understand why eccentric rings rather than smaller "centric" ones?

Tom

15 hours ago, Srodbro said:

One could easily argue ( if needed) that your choice actually is the scaled color, that the “ real” color is much darker than your choice, 
Looks great to me. 

Actually, Steve, the photo makes the new color lighter than in reality. As you say, beauty is in the eyes of the beholder!

Tom

Steve,

Thanks for your research and diligence. I think, however, that I need to make the red darker, rather than lighter. I've added some brown to the red and gotten a shade that I can accept.

Tom

Thank you all for your thoughts. I've mixed a little brown into the red and come up with this that I think will work:

So now I'm rethinking the red. Perhaps a little too bright. It's splotchy and needs a second coat anyway, so maybe tone it down a little. If I were Chuck P., I'd know just the right mix of paint to make it happen, but I'm not so stay tuned!

OK, so you're threading the ratline thru a shroud at 1:96. The shroud is, therefore, mighty thin. How do you keep from sticking your finger with the needle?

TB

OK, how about turnouts?

Keith,

Nicely explained. And do I understand that you thread the ratline thru the shroud, not just touching it?

Tom