usedtosail
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Nice job creating those missing port lids. I used the same technique for copper plating my Constitution model, although I scored the plates into the tape before applying it to the hull. Your cross section is coming out great. -
First, here is the new strut I made. I needs more work on the finish as you can see. I continue bending the trim strips around the cockpit openings. There is a slight overlap of the deck which allows a clamp to just bite so I don't have to hold these with my hands. I also modified a working stand I had to hold this hull so I can add the propeller and rudder with less chance of breaking them off.
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I have the seats ready to install now but first the instructions want me to add the trim around the cockpit openings, which are 1/16" half round styrene strips. I first had to figure out the best way to bend these around the corners while keeping them flat. If I heat them with a hair dryer they are pretty flexible so that is what I am doing. I also experimented with using medium CA or Hypo cement to secure them and found the hypo cement works better. It takes a little longer to dry but seems to hold better. I started by gluing one edge up to the bend, then after that dries, heating the strip at the bend and working it around, then putting glue on the underside of the trim and clamping it to the next edge then flat around the bend. Here is the start of this process. It will take a while to get all three done but I can do a little every couple of hours after the hypo cement dries. I did make a new strut for the propeller shaft yesterday. The kit supplied a thin piece of mahogany to use as the strut which had no strength at all. I made a new one out of a piece of brass with a pin on the face that goes against the hull and a piece of tubing soldered to the other face that the shaft slides in. I am also going to glue a piece of tubing into the hull bottom where the shaft goes into the hull instead just a hole. I will be installing all this after the trim is done.
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Thanks again Yves. I bought it from Micro Mark many years ago and I find it handy for assembling deck furniture. Here are the seat backs and cushions after many coats of diluted green paint over gesso. Next will be to glue them to the supports and add them to the cockpits.
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What a beautiful model you have made and your research is top notch, This was a pleasure to follow.
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Thanks Yves. I'll hold off on the poly coat until later. I started building the cockpit seats using the supplied balsa seat backs and seats, with mahogany kick boards. I started by scoring the seat backs and seats every 5mm using an X-Acto knife, then rounding the edges. I tried using the back of the knife for scoring but the balsa was tearing too much. I then gave them a coat of diluted gesso. This covered up the score lines more than I liked. While those dried I glued the kick boards to the seat support pieces, using a magnetic jig and Legos to hold them square. Last night I went over the score lines with a triangular needle file which opened them up nicely. I gave the seat backs and seats a first coat of thinned green paint this morning. It's the same paint I mixed up for the Constitution bulwarks and used on the Sicilian cargo boat, since I really like the color. I'll have pictures of those when they are fully painted. I also gave the kick boards a coat of mahogany stain.
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Thanks Mike. I think I got the idea to use the Spaz products from your build log. I was very happy with the results. I hit a bit of a milestone today - the hull is finally filled and sanded after many weeks. I made a thinned solution of wood filler and added some mahogany stain to it, then used it to fill all the thin cracks and tiny holes in the hull. After a final sanding this is what the hull looked like. I then gave the hull a coat of mahogany stain, which evened out the colors really well. I am contemplating giving the hull a few coats of glossy polyurethane but I still have to glue a bunch of stuff to it, so I may wait. Seats are next to do. I am going to practice with some extra balsa to see if I can carve a realistic looking seat cushion. Stay healthy and happy.
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I am building the Dumas Chris Craft 1938 27' Triple Barrel Back, which is a scale of 1/24.
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Jeff, I used tulle material for the netting on my Connie. You can get it in different colors at fabric stores like Joanne's. It is the stuff they use for wedding vails.
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Nice work on the deck planking Mike. I was not successful in my attempt at that. Can I ask you what you used for the seat cushions. In the kit I am working on they provide plain balsa to use for them and I wanted to add some seam details so they look more realistic. Yours look great. Thanks.
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Just a quick update. I haven't had too much time to work on the model over the last month as we were away for part of that time and some other issues, but I am slowly getting back at it. I planked the transom and have given the whole hull a rough sanding. I am now filling in cracks and holes with saw dust and white glue and sanding the hull with medium grit paper. My goal is to get as smooth as surface as I can, which is difficult with the kit supplied mahogany but it is getting much better. I'll have pictures when it is closer to done.
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The way I have added hooks to blocks like that is to put the strop around the block, put a seizing of only a few turns around the two ends, then put one of the ends through the hook and put another seizing where the first one was. I use very very thin line for the seizings so they don't look too big when they are done.
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Byrnes Sliding Table -Input Requested
usedtosail replied to glbarlow's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The cross cut sled is one of the best accessories for the Byrnes saw, in my opinion. I also made one when I bought the saw a few years ago but the one from Byrnes is 100 times better. I highly recommend it. -
The bottom planking is now completed. I have not started sanding the bottom planks yet. I ended up with square openings around the holes for pedestals because the mahogany was splintering around the holes. The pedestals will cover these square holes so they won't be seen. Only the transom is left to plank. I am going to let the side and bottom planks extend past the ends of the transom planks so the ends will not show from the sides. I had just enough long planks for the sides and bottom. The pile of short planks is what is left which I will use to plank the transom.
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I finished planking the sides of the hull and have started planking the bottom. Here is the port side with a little sanding. Underneath, you can see the first of the bottom planks along the keel. Most of the bottom will be planked with full width planks, trimmed along the edges at the chine.
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Count me in to follow along.
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Straightening aftermarket rigging line
usedtosail replied to DonInAZ's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Try running the waxed line over a light bulb that is on. This worked for me before I started making my own line. -
Nice job on those windows K. One idea for attaching the upper gun port lids is to cut small strips of brass or pieces of wire, bend them into a U shape, drill small holes into the edge of the port lid and the top of the gun port, then insert the brass strips into the gun port lids and the holes in the gun ports. I don't remember if the lids are thick enough for the holes though.
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I have started the hull planking using the mahogany planks that came with the kit. The instructions say that there are plenty but by my calculation I have exactly enough if I don't screw any up, which I already have. Luckily I have mahogany sheets that I can use to cut more planks, which I will use on the bottom. I started my gluing a plank along each chine, leaving enough over the chine so that they will overlap the bottom planks. I am now planking up from those planks to the deck. After measuring off the hull I trim each plank to the width at the marked lines. I made a jig from two pieces of aluminum angle and some thumb screws for a previous build to hold the planks while I use a small plane to trim them. After the planks are trimmed I taper the cut side and curve the bow end with a plank bender to fit the curve at the bow. For the last few planks near the deck I also need to edge bend them slightly which I am using Chuck's method of clamping around a form and heating with a heat gun. So far so good but there are a few minor gaps that I will need to fill with wood glue and saw dust, mostly on the port side.
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Can you sand off the laser char without affecting the other etched lines on the pre made deck? I am going through a similar dilemma on my Chris Craft build.
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Looks good Jeff. Those are not easy parts to make.
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So I had a major set back today. After more sanding of the deck I was noticing that in some areas the sanding was introducing gaps and splinters in the joints. Also, there were some areas where there were deep gouges in the mahogany that when sanded out made the deck much too thin. So I made the decision to remove the planked decking and replace it with the kit supplied deck, which, except for the absence of the white caulking, looks pretty good. I am not happy that I had to remove the planked deck, but I am not unhappy with the kit suppled deck either. I used medium CA and rubber bands to hold the deck to the hull while the glue dried. The cockpit openings fit perfectly over the cockpits and the rest of the deck fit really well too. I had to trim some of the balsa under the deck so that the side planking fits underneath it, but only in a few areas. I used an X-Acto knife and flat scraper to trim the balsa. You can see in the above picture that even the supplied deck has some gouges along the port side. I do not want to try to sand these out because that will sand through the deck lines, so I am only going to give this a sanding with medium and fine sandpaper. I am coming to hate mahogany for modeling. The supplied mahogany planks for the hull were also pretty rough, so I ran all of them through the thickness sander to clean up one side. I only took off about .004" but they look much better on that side. The edges are also pretty bad so I need to clean those up as I fit the planks. I now need to measure off the sides and bottom so I know how the plank widths need to be tapered to fit.
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