Blue Ensign

The reason I asked is because  I was thinking about retro fitting to my existing 'Indy' model.

B.E.

A big improvement Chris, the standing figure looks just like Rupert Penry-Jones.

Is the sitting figure  separate to the table/chair, and scaled to fit your existing furniture designs?

B.E.

An excellent rendition of an oob build, very well done James.

She surely looks impressive  as a fully rigged model.

B.E.

I'm not too sure about the rear view of the standing figure, there seems to be an unnatural look to the upper body, and the coat looks odd without tail vents, as per the sitting figure.

B.E.

What I've been waiting for, thank you Chris.

Presumably there is more work to do on the figures before they go into production?

B.E.

You've been spoiled by Vanguard kits, but at least there are plenty of bulkheads in that bow section.

B.E.

It will be interesting to see if the separate bow sections allow for easier fairing given that you have the run from the already planked hull.🤔

B.E.

Post 23

Completing the boarding.

The outer boards, one each side are a construction of two 1/32^nd strips, one atop the other leaving a rabbet on the outer side.

As with the wide boards I opted to glue the base layer first followed by the top layer.

0071

There was a degree of fettlin’ to get the planks tight against the broad planks, and an even rabbet along the outer side.

The nail positions were marked with the top planks in situ and removed for the drilling and ‘nail’ insertion.

0076

0075

On completion a coat of w-o-p was applied.

Moving onto the platforms.

B.E.

05/06/2024

All those metal fittings look so ‘last century’ to my eye, and stub guns, takes me back to Norske Love of the 1980’s.

Times have moved on……..
 

B.E.

When I came back to the build I re-read Chuck's log and many others, to refresh my memory. I consider myself lucky that I have all these excellent builds, including yours Bob, to refer to.

I picked up the  tip of  using the thinner stuff from Chuck's log, but it's not mentioned in the download instructions.

I was concerned about using too much pressure on those open frames.

B.E.

Post 22

Fitting the boards

Initial fitting of the 1/16^th broad plank reveals it will be a tricky part to fit.

It is clear that a gentle approach will be required in getting the boards to conform to the frames as they are far more vulnerable without the support of outer planking.

Chuck had suggested that the broad planks could be cut from 1/32^nd sheet and glued one on top of the other in the same manner as the outer planks.

These would better conform around the inner framework, and

having played around with the 1/16^th board I decided that the 1/32^nd option was both easier and safer.

Not out of the woods yet; 

Shaping by degrees was needed on the inner side of the broad planks to cleanly meet the central one.

Additionally, I had problems with Frame ‘F’ - third from the bow, which needed additional fairing to allow the board to sit down properly. This frame was also troublesome with the central plank.

0040

0042

These Amati planking clamps are ideal for securing the boarding both for heat treatment to conform the board, and for eventually gluing.

This would not be an option with a fully planked hull.

It is the forward section of the boards that require some twist to conform to the forward bow frames but using 1/32^nd board there is no problem.

0049

The base layers in place.

0045

Here the port side second layer strip in position for the application of the heat treatment. Spacers are used to maintain the rabbet line on the central plank.

Before finally gluing into place the nail points were marked on the planking and pre drilled.

I used a 0.4mm drill.

Care is required to ensure that the nail lines across the board are even and square to the frames.

With the board in place I drew fine pencil marks in line with the frames, and off the model I marked the nail positions and drilled.

The board then needed cleaning with isopropanol to remove the traces of the pencil marks.

0054

Using 10lb fishing line the ‘nails’ are inserted, secured with pva. Dull work, but I can’t complain given that I have been spared the bulk of this task.

0055

0059

0057

0056

Onto the outer boards.

B.E.

03/06/2024

Nice progress Christian.

On the subject of the Qtr deck Capstan, it actually sat on a platform called the step. This rose around 1.5mm (at scale) above the Qtr deck. The step was angled  slightly to bring the capstan vertical to the spindle running between the two capstans.

The expediency of  bevelling the base of the capstan achieves the same effect, but does it look ok from a side on view?

Regards,

B.E.

Round-up to the head ledges and gratings👍

B.E.

As Alan has said above there is a  design on the plans.

Using a good quality paper, take a few photo copies  in case you mess one up, trim to fit, spray with Artist fixative, job done.

B.E.

Post 21

Painting the rails

There were some very fine imperfections between the capping rail and inboard sheer planking still apparent after two coats of thinned paint.

4849

I applied some fine surface filler atop the rails.

Several more thinned paint coats were applied with sanding in-between initially using 400, then 1000 grit.

At this point in Part three of the guide it is suggested that the decorative frieze and rail are fitted but I thought I would attend to the floorboards and platforms first.

I will return to add final paint coats once the boarding is installed.

Floorboarding

The floorboards comprise the central board with a broad plank adjacent and a narrower plank outside.

2304a

The two broad planks either side of the central plank are easy to identify on 1/16^th cedar sheet.

2303a

The centre plank along with the two narrower outer planks are found on sheet R. These are made up from two 1/32^nd strips glued together. The top layers are slightly narrower to form a rabbet, one each side on the central plank, and one on the outer edges of the outer planks.

2307

The central plank with the two broad planks.

2305a

These should meet the centre plank at all points. There is a gap at the fore end which I don’t think will accept edge bending, so the inner edges look to need shaping to allow the fore end to meet the central plank.

The broad planks will also require some lateral bending to sit down on the frames.

2308a

The two outer planks abut the broad planks with the rabbet on the outer edge.

The central plank is fitted first which is necessary to provide a solid edge to work the broad plank fit.

Trial fitting revealed a potential problem.

With an open framed version the fit of the central board is perhaps slightly more critical than the fully planked version.

4855a

The fit of the boards on the frames will be seen from below and as can be seen the central plank does not sit fully down on the third from bow frame due to the more acute angle of the frame.

Having discussed with Chuck a small wedge was added to fill the gap.

4853

One of the advantages of open frames is that there is convenient access to clamp this part in place.

B.E

29/05/2024

There was a French 1st rate Le Fulminant built at Rochefort Dockyard 1691.

B.E.

Thank you Chuck, it was the elegant sheer that attracted me to the model. Overall it is a thing of beauty.

Post 20

In continuation.

4753

The re-made bow Breasthook/knee has been glued into place, I think I’ve got a close fit.

4754

I have continued to clean up the woodwork prior to applying a coat of w-o-p.

With w-o-p applied to the frames and inner boarding it is time to consider paint.

As with the Queen Anne Barge I will be using Vallejo acrylics.

3434(1)

For that build I used Flat Red for the Barge paintwork.

The uniforms for the Royal Company of Watermen were of a brighter hue.

4837

Before I committed to the paint shade I compared the likely Vallejo options.

I think Flat Red (top option) still has the edge so I’ll stick with that.

4848

A first coat of thinned paint is applied, the first of several, and a first opportunity for the paint to reveal where areas need attention.

4842

4846

On with the show.

B.E.

27/05/2024

Looking impressive Kevin, and I'm sure Apollo has been of great comfort to soften the loss of your  Dobbie.

B.E.

Very nicely done Dan, 👍

B.E.

Post 4

The launch is completed.

The only modification to the provided kit is a replacement for the rudder.

I have also added the following:-

Lifting rings to the keelson.

A cap square for the mast

A brass etch grapnel from the Indy kit.

A turning bar to the windlass.

I have also utilised the boat chocks from the Indy kit to support the hull.

This has been an enjoyable little project and I am pleased with the result.

2284a

2287a

2290a

2292a

2296a

4828

Below is a comparison with the wooden 24’ Launch I made for Sphinx.

2283a

2273a

2279a

Both versions in my opinion look good and I think they represent the best available options at this scale.

The Resin/wood combo is a good match and almost fools the eye into thinking the whole is a wooden construction.

For those who may prefer to avoid the time and frustrations that can arise building the wooden versions, they are an excellent choice.

The wood versions have a slight edge for build match with the Main ship medium, and perhaps give a greater satisfaction in successfully completing these tricky little kits.

I don’t think I would mix resin and wood boats on the same build, but I am happy to consider either to enhance the ship kits.

You pays your money and takes your choice.

B.E.

26/05/2024

Nicely done Kevin👍

B.E.

Post 3 

Internal fittings

All the wooden internal fittings are laser cut on 0.8mm Pear sheet.

4788

The thwarts fit perfectly in their allotted positions, and at a correct rowing height.

4797

4799

Always good when the feet of a scale figure are a perfect fit for thwart and footwaling.

The stern benches are notched to fit over the frames, and again are a perfect fit.

4796

One feature that caught my eye was to see that the benches fitted over the aftermost thwarts.

The drawing would support that view, at least on this design of Launch.

The Rudder

This is fairly fragile at 0.8mm, and the head of the rudder split a little in the area of the tiller insert.

The kit set-up has the addition of side cheeks, for want of a better word, either side of the head, between which the tiller is inserted.

I don’t recall ever seeing such an arrangement on boat rudders. I wonder if it is supposed to represent a sort of tiller cowl that slots over the rudder head?

4804

I don’t know if such an arrangement ever existed in the 18^thc, but either way I thought it looked a little odd, and rather ugly, so I re-made a new rudder using 1mm Pear. (left hand version)

Oars are supplied in 0.8mm Pear and I note that Chris has designed in the broader elements of the loom. The blades are also finer than on other editions.👍

4807

I think the oars more than fulfil their purpose at this scale.

The next post will see the completion of this long weekend project.

B.E.

25/05/2024

Progress on the hull.

Post 2

The only area that needs cleaning up is the transom.

4751

This has a pimpling effect from the moulding that needs sanding smooth, a simple and quick exercise.

Note there are two little protrusions on the transom and stern post that relate to the rudder and shouldn’t be mistaken for flash.

4762

With the resin washed and the parts carefully trimmed as necessary, they are now primed.

I use Vallejo surface primer.

In considering the colour scheme, my aim is to create a look that tones in with the wooden kit boats on ‘Indy’ purely for comparison purposes.

The internal areas of boats were usually painted and with a resin model it is necessary.

I have read that left over paint mixtures known as sad were often applied to the internal planking of ships boats.

Once the internal painting has been done the windlass can be fitted.

4766

It slots into the housing perfectly, with very little effort. It then provides a useful point to hold the boat for painting the external hull.

4763

The outer hull painted with a mix of ¾ Burnt umber / ¼ Natural wood.

This was followed by a wash consisting of Flat earth lightened with Ochre brown and tinted with a spot of vermillion.

This was applied over the base and dry brushed.

With acrylics it is easy to play around with colour mixes until a tone that suits the eye is achieved.

4769

4772

The lower hull was painted using Vallejo Ivory.

4779

4784

Onto the internal fittings.

B.E.

23/05/2024

Snipping tool Gregory, that’s something I use to trim the ends of rigging line, is there any other sort.

Ah, I see, screen shots are beyond my old Windows 11 desk top tech, should have used the iPad.