Jump to content
Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order. ×

Blue Ensign

NRG Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    4,553

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Blue Ensign

  1. Blue Ensign
    Always a good idea not to act too quickly Kurt. B.E.
  2. Blue Ensign
    Thanks Kurt, putting the twist in the last plank section for the tuck was the least of the problems. Just wet the plank, fixed one end in a vice, applied the twist using pliers, and applied heat from a hairdryer. Took a few seconds only to impart the required twist. ps, just remember to twist the plank the right way. B.E.
  3. Blue Ensign
    Post 22 Strakes below the Wale Before I apply the second Wale layer I intend to fit the drop planks and first two planking layers. I start with the first plank below the wale (3/16" x 3/64") which terminates at b/h J. and meets the Drop plank that will run to the stem. 7313 Following advice from Kurt, Dave, and Erik I have decided to run the planks at scale lengths and this first section runs between b/hds J and B, the next section between B and 12, and a final short strip to termination at the Square Tuck piece. This last piece has some twist in it to follow the curvature of the hull. 7423 With the first strake fitted I can move onto the Drop Plank. 7429 The last of several card templates to form the Drop plank. From the plan the forward end tapers to 3/32" and the aft end where it adjoins the second strake below the wale 5/32". The drop plank was cut from 1/16" sheet and using a jig sanded down close to 3/64". It is then a case of sand and tweak, tweak and sand to get the bally thing to fit. 7436 I stuck at it long enough to get thro' several card templates and three Boxwood versions before I got one that I could live with, which is not necessarily the standard some of my more adept colleagues could live with. 7606 7603 7599 7594 At last after seven days toil the first two strakes below the Wales are completed, altho' in need of some serious cleaning up. I will now move on to the second layer Wales. B.E. 04/04/2018
  4. Blue Ensign
    Thanks Dave and Erik for your input, looks like scale planking is the way to go. @ Erik - I'm not sure that I can get anywhere close to your excellent planking, but I do appreciate your series of photo's showing how you approached the subject. I will try and follow your good advice and fine example. PS: I have printed out your post above and pinned it to my bench to try and keep me on track. Regards, B.E.
  5. Blue Ensign
    Welcome to the Swan Club David, after your superb Revenge build I don’t think Fly will present you with too many problems, enjoy this pretty little Sloop. B.E.
  6. Blue Ensign
    Hi Kurt I couldn't quite see from the photo's posted in other logs whether the individual plank method had been used as all the photo's seemed to show completed strakes. Did most other builders of Cheerful use the separate plank method? You got me thinking about control of long lengths re tight joints so I think I will at least do the first strake on this basis and see how it goes. It is fronted by the drop plank anyway. Thanks OC, it is early days yet and the jury is still out on whether a thing of beauty will be created, I certainly hope so. B.E.
  7. Blue Ensign
    Those mouldings look just fine Steve, well done. B.E.
  8. Blue Ensign
    Thanks Bob and Kurt, and to those who have given me 'likes' I'm also going to fit the two strakes and drop plank below the wale before I add the second wale layer. I don't think you will have trouble clamping the wales Kurt as clamps fit easily between the bulkheads to hold them in place. I suspect holding the planks below the wales may present a greater problem. I will fit the plank immediately below the wale (the one that stops at b/h J); as Chuck mentions this tapers from b/h B to 5/64", to meet the drop plank, but otherwise remains at the full width of 3/16". I intend to mostly fit the strakes in full lengths and mark the butt joints once dry fitted. B.E.
  9. Blue Ensign
    Post 21 Fashion Pieces. 7236 I followed Chuck's method of tracing the outline onto card to form a template of the Fashion pieces. 7243 Even so I found they needed some tweaking to fit the actual profile on the model, and a little water/heat bending around a shallow curve to match the contour of the hull. 7246 Bamboo tree nails were used to further secure the Fashion pieces. 7247 The instructions call for the back edge of the fashion piece to overhang the transom by 1/32" (0.8mm) I used a short length of the second layer wale planking as a guide. 7252 Completed bar the sanding 7254 So what d'ye think Gromit? ........Movin' on B.E. 28/03/2018
  10. Blue Ensign
    Cheers Kurt and Dave, I think I will follow suit and line between the bulkheads, I wasn’t looking forward to thinning down those bulkhead extensions and having a firm line to work to makes good sense. 🙂 B.E.
  11. Blue Ensign
    Post 20 Planking the stern 6860 Starting with the lowest counter plank (3/16th" strip) water/heat was used to form the quite pronounced curve required. 6916 I found holding this first plank in place whilst gluing quite tricky, and an early stage set back occurred when a spring clamp flew off and snapped one of the inner stern frames. 6913 No too difficult to repair with braces added either side of the break, but an unsettling moment nonetheless. 6917 Once the first plank is fixed the following planks go on without too much trouble, totalling seven strakes up to the break with the transom. The final plank below the transom required a slightly greater width, I used 7/32" which was then sanded down to suit, and the 1/16" moulding strip attached. The Transom Planking the transom should take four strakes, I shaped the first two planks insitu to get the curve, and then sectioned them to fit between the ports. 6925 The third plank has to be rebated to fit over the ports, a job done slowly using a scalpel. 7145 For reasons I can't fathom even a 7/32" plank was a fraction short to reach the top of the central stern frames so it was necessary to add a 1/16" strip above the third plank. 7142 Hmmn, seem to have too much sill showing at the bottom of ports, will leave it for the present but may need to infill with a narrow strip. 7143 At this point I also started to define the camber aft of the last bulkhead. All still looking a bit rough at present, but I'll move onto the fashion pieces before I clean things up. B.E. 25/03/2018
  12. Blue Ensign
    What a journey you have been on Michael, and what a stunning result. Your log has always been informative and represents a valuable guide for others who embark on this build. A great display location to enjoy views from all sides, many congratulations. Regards, B.E.
  13. Blue Ensign
    She does look absolutely splendid Christian, I've always liked the toning of her colour scheme. I agree that she does deserve a less utilitarian display stand; I've always favoured a keel block arrangement incorporating a pair of fine cradles, but the there are many options. Regards, B.E.
  14. Blue Ensign
    Altho' I think models look nicer without a case, I would certainly encase her Christian. There's too much rigging and intricacy to keep her properly clean, and it would be an increasingly tiresome task to do so with more dust left in the difficult places to access each time. To reduce the impact of a case I favour a plexiglass cover without framing, but I suppose it depends on the sort of setting you are thinking about. The one issue with a clear plexiglass cover is setting it over the model without catching the spar extremities, and it is certainly a two person job. Look forward to seeing her in her final setting. B.E.
  15. Blue Ensign
    That's a very good idea Ian, and your Cheerful looks in splendid shape. Regards, B.E.
  16. Blue Ensign
    Cheers Guys, @ Jason - I noted that Bob used that method in his Cheerful build, and a very nice job he did. Somehow, for no clearly defined reason I can offer, I felt more comfortable planking as I went along. Post 19 Reducing the outer stern frames.(zz) I approached this job with not a little trepidation, no change there, I always feel edgy in the early stages of a build. 6773 I made 3mm and 1.5mm thick shields to protect the planking and provide guides for the reduction of the frames. 6771 I was reluctant to use my mini rotary tool lest a slip did some serious damage particularly to those fragile stern frames. I used a combination of mini saw blades, scalpels and sanding sticks to gradually reduce the outer frames. 6772 Slow progress but less risky, still a way to go yet. 6834 I also thought it easier to sand down the aftermost bulkhead frame extensions at this point whilst I had access between the stern frames. 6829 1/16th" (1.6mm) seems a very fine depth to thin the frames to, here they are at 1.9mm and I'm getting close to my level of confidence. 6827 Boards temporarily glued to assess the look of the bulwark thickness. I think I can go a little further but not very much. I now need to consider the planking of the stern. B.E. 15/03/2018
  17. Blue Ensign
    Post 18 Completion of Topside planking Planking between the ports is now completed, looking a little rough but hopefully scraping and sanding will rectify the appearance. 6744 6763 6766 I think I will wait until the stern area is planked before doing any serious cleaning up along the hull. Onto the stern. B.E. 13/03/2018
  18. Blue Ensign
    To my eye Martin it does look that there is too much curvature at the bottom of the Main rail, does it follow the curvature as shown on the plan? This is such a critical area that can make or break a build, and I also had more than one attempt at not only the Main Rail, but the Eking Rail as well. I seem to recall spending a lot of time with the rails blu-tacked to the head fretting over the levels and relationship to the other parts. It's a frustrating business to get the rail fined down to a nice taper only to have it break when you're 99.9% there. You will get there Martin just got to stick with it. ps I joined the feckless retired 13 years ago, and haven't looked back for a moment. B.E.
  19. Blue Ensign
    Cheers Rusty, that’s reassuring to note. B.E.
  20. Blue Ensign
    Thank you, Mike, Kurt, and Ian. @ Kurt - trialling is always a good idea but I tend to favour the boxwood sawdust/ pva mix for filling between the strakes.
  21. Blue Ensign
    Post 17 Planking between the ports. I have scratched my head over the best approach (for me) to tackle this job. The problem seems to be getting a constant narrow line each side of the ports to form the rebate, and getting the plank ends angled correctly given the slight sheer of the moulding rail against which the first plank must adhere. To begin the process I wetted and heat treated a full length of 5/32nd strip along the hull to impart the curve. 6640 The section between each port was then marked on the plank, and the laborious process of cutting and fitting began. 6648 Each section was cut roughly to size, clamped into place and given the heat treatment again. 6650 The ends were then cut using a scalpel, and pva'd into place. I found this to be slow and testy work. 6649 Getting there. 6656 6651 Starboard side completed, or rather planked; there is a lot of tweaking and cleaning up to do. One area that caused me some confusion was fitting the last two strakes aft of the last port running up to the stern post. 6654 These were both tapered in accordance with the instructions and to the plan dimensions, but unlike Chuck's photo's in the relevant section,(Chapter 3, page3) the last strake did not run to the top of the outer stern frame. Into panic mode, fingers crossed the outer strakes are reduced in height to form the transom curve, otherwise I'm in trouble. Onto the Port side. B.E. 06/03/2018
  22. Blue Ensign
    Thank you Thomas and Martin. 'Lovely little thing' is a relative term for me at the moment. This is my least favourite part of a build Martin, always looks untidy to me, made worse by looking at Chuck's build photo's, they really should carry a warning 'Looking at these photo's can seriously damage your build confidence' Hopefully once it's all been sanded I'll feel happier about it. Not heard much from the prairie of late, hope you and yours are ok and that you are making some progress on Fly. Regards, B.E.
  23. Blue Ensign
    I intend to follow Chuck's example and 'false' treenail the hull using a contrasting filler. B.E.
  24. Blue Ensign
    Thank you Ken, Post 16 Planking above the Wale The first plank above the wale is done using 3/16"wide x 3/64" thick strip.(4.7625mm x 1.2mm) There is a taper required both fore and aft on the first plank to even out the widths with the second plank. I started my fore taper just aft of the second port, and the aft taper just past the third port from aft. These were quite shallow tapers. With the tapers done I clamped the first plank in place and gave it the heat treatment to impart a little curve memory around the bow. Trialling the fit some tweaking was required to get the strip to lie flush to the rail, a couple of high/low spots on the bulkheads. 5582 5581 It was then a question of gluing progressively along the hull clamping it both to the bulkheads and the Wale. I initially glued to the first six bulkheads, then worked aft at three at a time. 5627 5630 I fitted the lower strip on both sides before moving on. Note: Looking at photo's of Chuck's prototype build there are three butt joints along the first plank. 1 just aft of the first port a 2nd just aft of port 3, and a third just forward of port 6. Strangely on the plans (Plan 1) only two butt joints are shown? I didn't cut the planks into scale lengths, but replicated the 'joint' with a shallow micro saw cut, and then marked it with a pencil lead. The second plank above the wale was done using 7/32" wide by 3/64" thick strip (5.56mm x1.2mm) This strake to fill in up to the moulding rail required some fettlin' with tapers both fore and aft. 6078 I used Tamiya 10mm tape to give me a template along the hull for the shape of the upper plank which gave me the rough top line of the plank beneath the moulding rail. It was then a question of using a scalpel blade to pare the strake down progressively to fit. As it turned out it was more of a spile than a simple taper. I use a Pilot broad chisel waterproof marker to represent the tar line between planks. 5752 Fixing the upper strake in place. 6369 Got a little fettlin' to do around the fore port sill line. Moving on now to working out a strategy for the planking between the ports. B.E 02/03/2018
  25. Blue Ensign
    Congratulations Mihai, a very nice result, and a great collection of completion photo's; she looks splendid in place on your shelf. Your choice of black for the Topsides is historically correct as black was the 'official' colour for British Navy. Regards, B.E.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...