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Blue Ensign

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Everything posted by Blue Ensign

  1. That is quite some build you've taken on there Anton, great job on the gunports, a tricky job that gives me the yips just thinking about it. Well done B.E.
  2. Very pretty Kurt, reminds me of the launches of our English Lake District. However, my interest leans towards the 18th century, and the offerings of our vey own Chuck are a very strong draw. B.E.
  3. Thank you Christian, Michael, Nils, Anton, Bob, Steve, Mark, Grant, Tigersteve, and Kurt, and to those who hit the 'like ' button. @ Michael - There won't be any framing around the case, a simple acrylic cover to fit over the base. I guess the re-issued log uninterrupted by comments is a Kindle edition book of sorts. @ Bob - Steady on there Bob, there are many builds on here that I rate far higher than mine, your own great models included, but very nice of you to say so, you bring a blush to my cheek. @ Kurt - Nothing finally decided as yet, except it won't be a three masted square rigger. Something like a larger scale smaller boat is probably favourite, but I need to get Pegasus off my work bench and under cover before I begin. Once again many thanks to those who have followed my Sloop adventure. B.E.
  4. Making a Base for Pegasus The cradles are cut from some 1/8th Boxwood sheet stuff having used the kit stand as a template. For this the beast has to come out. Two lengths of 12mm square walnut are slotted to take the cradles. The little miller is very handy for this. The basic cradles completed. My preferred option is for a base where the model sits on stylised Keel Blocks supported by cradles of the minimum profile sufficient to give the model stability. The Bohler makes quick work of cutting the keel blocks from 12mm section Walnut, which will be topped by 9mm section blocks on which the keel will sit. This is not the proper base, just an old drawer front used for the purpose of setting out. The model sits on a plain oak base which will be contained within a protective acrylic case. Setting out the keel blocks. The base completed. I now need to have the protective case made. This is not unsubstantial being 780mm long x 640mm high x 330mm wide. In the meantime I will continue to fuss over the model tweaking and cleaning. B.E.
  5. Hi Jason, thank you for your kind words. As far as the Great Cabin is concerned access is most definitely there - provided you are only 25mm tall. Hi Martin, hope you do get some progress in the boatyard this weekend; Cephalic feline nature eh, you plains folk surely are Highfalutin. for myself I'm off to the Cotswolds for a spot of R&R. B.E.
  6. No need to go to the other place Martin, the detail is here on page 3, post 72 of my log. The Cathead should butt up against the Main rail of the head works and during the process of fixing the cathead it is worth checking they sit right. On Pegasus the Main rail is a pre-shaped piece of walnut so it is an easy matter to blu-tack it temporarily in place before the cathead position is fixed. Cheers, B.E.
  7. Thank you, Don, Lawrence, Joe, and Mike for your most generous comments, much appreciated. @ Lawrence, served brass wire comes in very handy for a number of tricky little rigging requirements, and Catharpins are one of the best examples. @ Mike, I didn't repost the log twice, just in two halves. Fortunately the first half was a straight copy and paste from another forum, and the second half (Masting and Rigging) from my word/photo files, which were in a reasonable order but still took several day to complete and proved the most tiresome. Otherwise I doubt I would have had the heart or inclination to start again. I now live in fear of the 'delete' button ps: Have you changed your tag name from 'Landlubber Mike? B.E.
  8. I'm with the programme Martin, just because it's hidden is no reason not to do it. Mrs Shires W is generally supportive of my modelling activity, but having read the frank disclosure by Mrs Prairie W, I now begin to wonder why. She did once express an interest in making an Airfix Spitfire (had to be an Airfix) and indeed started it, when I asked which Mk she would like I was promptly told not to get nerdy! just get her a Spitfire. Still on with the show - don't forget to get the Catheads the right way up, and you will need to temporarily fit the main head Rails to assist getting the position right. Cheers, B.E.
  9. Our respective Mrs W's seem to have the same outlook towards our modelling efforts, but that's not the point is it, although on a practical level Mrs Prairie W is correct in the sense that the Foc'sle scroll will be mostly hidden by the shrouds. Nice detail tho' Martin😊 Good luck luck with the Catheads, an interesting little project in their own right. B.E.
  10. Looking forward to following your new build Bob. I have exactly the same mind set as I approach completion of my Pegasus , smaller subjects, larger scale, less focal range requirements. Time catches up with all of us I guess B.E.
  11. The gun port size is as per the pattern, and I lined them with some 0.6mm boxwood strip. However, were I doing the model again I would have made the first port, which is in fact a Bridle port, (not a gun port), narrower to 8.50mm, and side hinged the port lid. I didn't line the Sweep ports. B.E.
  12. I looked at this during my build and I finally settled on RB32mm guns and the 15mm for the Swivels. However, the 29mm look fine as well on the carriage, and once they are all together along the broadside I don't think they will look undersized, I just preferred a slightly chunkier look. This is the comparison I made when deciding on my build, and as you can see the Syren version is finer still than the RB 29mm. B.E.
  13. Hi Doug, the details are there, Page two, post 52- here's the link I think. Cheers, B.E.
  14. Thank you Bob, she looks great in those additional shots, a very fine model B.E.
  15. Doug, my Stove is positioned wth the chimey forward, it is the only way it would fit. I pondered over this for some time but came across a reference to stoves sometimes facing that way. I did notch out the beam to allow for the steam grating to sit without the beam blocking it from beneath. I did quite a lot of modifications beneath the Foc'sle deck one of which was to provide sockets on the underside of the deck to take the legs of the Foc'sle bitts. This meant that the legs didn't extend down to the upper deck and would not therefore block your stove whichever way you positioned it. Possible solutions😊 B.E.
  16. Nicely done Bob, another fine model, and great detail work. The last four full shot photo's look a tad out of focus to me, can you replace them so we may better enjoy the fruits of your labour. Regards, B.E.
  17. Well done Doug going the extra mile by fully rigging the 'hidden' guns galley stove looks excellent, have you checked how it relates to the Chimney position and steam grating? B.E.
  18. Thank you Chuck, Nils, and Michael, and to all those who have re-visited the log and hit the 'like' button multiple times. Scuppers One of tidy up items to do is the Scuppers for the Manger. I had much earlier in the build attended to the other six scuppers required along the hull and this is the last one. These are 'false' scuppers in the sense that they are drilled from outside and do not connect to the scupper outlets in the waterway, a much too fraught exercise to consider. The lead flanges are made from thin slivers of aluminium tubing bashed flat on my anvil and painted with a flat lead grey colour. The run of seven scuppers along the hull. With Pegasus out of her cover I took the opportunity to take some general shots. I keep spotting things that require attention or that I have overlooked, I think this process could take a while. B.E.
  19. Fine bit of ropework you've been doing Michael, love your approach to working the mouse. B.E.
  20. Hoisting the Ensign This is a schematic of how I attach the Ensign to the Staff. Incidentally this is Blue Ensign made for my Victory build, using the tissue/printing method. I had made the Ensign and Jack Staffs some time back in the build. The Ensign is raised. The Jack before tweaking............... .........and after. Almost there folks, some tidying up now to do, and a base to make. This post marks the seven day task of rebuilding this log, I think I've got it all in the correct order. B.E. 11 March 2017.
  21. Ensigns. I have opted for the Red Ensign, and a Union Flag at the Jack staff. There should also be a Commissioning Pennant worn at the Mainmast head, but these very long pennants can be difficult to get to hang right on a model, and may be best left off, I am undecided at present. The two references I use for flags are: Flags for Ship modellers and marine artists by Alec A Purves Flags at Sea by Timothy Wilson. For Pegasus the pre 1801 Union flag design is appropriate; for Fly with a career spanning the Act of Union of Great Britain and Ireland, either would be appropriate. Many depictions of the pre 1801 Ensign, and Jack show quite a broad white diagonal representing the Scottish Saltire However, contemporary marine art does tend to show the Union flag with a much darker blue ground and a much narrower white diagonal. This extract is of a painting that hangs above my desk. It is entitled A Two-decker and a Frigate off Harwich by One of my favourite contemporary marine artists, Charles Brooking, and is my guide for the Pegasus Ensigns. This is my preferred design, albeit in rough form. Making the Ensign A photo of the Ensign is printed out at the appropriate size to form the pattern. This scales to 57mm x 87mm. To make the Ensign I used Modelspan tissue. A piece of Modelspan is taped across a box with a rectangular hole in it. It is then painted both sides with dilute pva, and dried with a hair dryer. It is then taped over the photo image of the Ensign and run thro' the printer. I allow sufficient extra on the hoist edge to form the hoist thro' which the halyard will be fitted. The printed image on Modelspan is a little too faded so it is again taped over a backing piece and is painted over. At this point I place a sheet of polythene beneath the image to prevent paint bleed sticking the Modelspan to the paper beneath. To paint the flags I have used Humbrol Acrylic paints, No 60 (Red) No 77(Blue) and No 34 (White) Painting both sides of the Ensign completed. The Jack was prepared in the same manner, measuring 23.8mm x 36.5mm. The next stage is to get the flags to hang limply in a natural fashion. My approach is to steam them and tease them into shape. These little hand steamers are just the ticket, beats holding it over the kettle spout. A heath Robinson device to hold the Ensign at the correct angle whilst it is steamed and pulled into shape. The Ensign is left to dry and hopefully stick in the arranged position. Line is loosely tied around the flag to assist in shape holding. The next post will deal with attaching the flags to the staffs. B.E.
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