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Blue Ensign

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Everything posted by Blue Ensign

  1. Don't know what your golf handicap is Bob, but your ship modelling is pretty much off scratch Nice job on the ratlines. B.E.
  2. Post 9 Thinking about stern frames Before I started on the stern frames I added short bracing sections of Walnut square stuff between those bulkheads not braced by the Port sills. 4655 The hull is now very stable without any flex in the bulkheads. 4648 getting the levels right for the outer frames 4650 attaching the outer frame sections. These frames are beautifully cut and fit together perfectly. 4654 Marking the approximate fairing line on the outer stern frames. This method of attaching a pencil stub to a wood strip I copied from Rustyj's Cheerful log, thanks Rusty, it worked a treat. 4657 More fairing of the outer frames still required, but at this point I added the four internal frames. 4668 I used a copy of the stern plan to check the set up, not exactly a perfect fit but it did align with frames 'Y' so I took those as the reference points to mark the height of the port frames. 4672 At this point I think I will fit the port sills and lintels which will add a little stability to the quite fine inner frames. B.E. 28/01/2018
  3. Those are the Boomkins Doug, used to spread the Fore tack. I took my dimensions from Steel and making them from 3mm dia dowel tapered down to 2mm. with a shoulder on the outer end to secure the Fore Tack shoulder Block. Outside of the False rail there is a downward curve in the spar, this was induced by firstly soaking and then curving over a suitable former. No need to be in a rush to fit the Boomkins, they just fit into holes in the face of the Foc'sle. The angle and position of the Boomkins depends to some extent by whether you fit seats of ease to the heads, and whether you fit a false rail which is notched to take the passage of the Boomkin. B.E.
  4. Great job on the Long Boat Doug, and I bet you’re glad all those yards have been rigged out. 😊 B.E.
  5. If you're referring to the bow area Martin they look like balsa but they are plywood strips glued together to form the bow port section that are cut out later. They will be planked over, but inside the ports a Boxwood lining has been fitted to match the others. The Port interiors are to be painted and considerably thinned down once the exterior planking is done. Cheers, B.E.
  6. Cheers Guys, Post 8 Port Sills I cut some ¼" square strips from some old Boxwood stuff I had to form the sills. The Proxxon Band saw and Surface planer proved very useful for this job. 4620 More of the stuff was used for the uprights following as far as possible the plan thicknesses, but there were differences in practice. My approach was to fit the thinner uprights on each port and then using a port width template establish the broader upright thickness. When it came to the forward port cut outs I allowed extra width and depth to allow for a Boxwood lining. 4623 I used temporary guide strips for the upright cuts. 4630 Once the bulk was removed, easily done with razor saw diagonal cuts, I cleaned the bottom with a scalpel blade. 4627 The port width template can be seen in this shot. 4641 The linings were then glued into place. 4637 4638 4636 4644 The external port fairing now largely done, now need to consider the stern framing. B.E. 24/01/2018
  7. Thanks for looking in HH and Tom, and for your appreciative comments. Tom I used 0.1mm dia line for the reef points; not a job I enjoyed, there were over 150 points on the Fore Topsail, with the prospect of repeating it all over again with the Main Topsail. To get them to lie flat against the sail I painted them with diluted pva, otherwise they would be sticking out all over the place and spoil the effect. Regards, B.E.
  8. Ah shirt sleeves, the bane of ship modellers, especially when it comes to masting and rigging I shall take great care Kurt when it comes to those stern frames, a little way off yet I think. Post 7 Fairing, fairing, and more fairing. Another day of sand and check, sand and check, and for a bit of light relief, check and sand. 4499 4491 4502 The test strips seem to be sitting fair across the bulkheads, only the central four bulkheads seem to require no adjustment although they will have the char taken off. At this point I think I can fit the batten strip to mark the gun port sills. 4534 Seems to run with a fair curve, at least to my eye. 4540 4544 With the port sills marked, the next stage beckons. B.E. 18/01/2018
  9. Thanks Kurt, very useful tips, I would hate to snap a bulkhead extension. I haven’t really thought about the stern frames as yet but I’ll certainly take your advice onboard. Regards, B. E.
  10. Thanks Mike and Dave, and belated New year greetings to yourselves. Post 6 That fairing business Not done much work in the Shipyard since before Christmas, lacking some enthusiasm most probably because one of my least favourite aspects of a build is now required. Fairing seems to go on forever, and there is always the worry in the back of my mind that I may overdo it, and end up having to shim the bulkheads. 4024 One needs a good supply of sanding sticks for this task and I've added to my supply a curved stick made from a strip of Yellow pine left over from a much earlier scratch build of a twelve gun Brig, put into ordinary for many years and then abandoned due to terminal wood worm. The wood comes off pretty easily during the bevelling operation, but the devil is as always in the detail of the process. 4469 I made a simple block jig to support the inverted hull whilst working. 4467 Once I reached the point where I felt there was a smoothish transition a walnut batten was pinned along the hull at gunport cill level. 4474 getting there I think, at least on the starboard side. 4470 4472 4462 4473 The fairing continues, a further batten strip will be added at Wale level, and a third lower down. B.E.
  11. Neat and clean and beautifully presented as always Bob, another fine example of your talent. B.E.
  12. A fine job Michael, and a beautiful model to enjoy. Well done. B.E.
  13. Just picked up on this build Ryland, your pace of work may be slow, but the result is a fine model, much to be admired. B.E.
  14. Hi Martin, I only usually bother with the vac if I'm making serious dust; all the Proxxon machines take my Henry vacuum cleaner connection, but I have been toying with the idea of getting the Proxxon version which comes on automatically with the machine. Nor sure Mrs W of the Shires would appreciate industrial grade extraction equipment running around my office cum workshop. although she likes the idea of the Proxxon cleaner, has visions of using it around the rest of the upper floor, when I'm out of the way I think. B.E.
  15. It's a nice plan Kurt, much larger than the scale plan provided, they do look good framed. My attention is fully engaged in the fairing process at present, but I think Chuck has it all covered as far as the detail is concerned. B.E.
  16. They are all there Kurt, if you go back to the site and enter ‘Cheerful’ in the search box all the plan variations come up to select from. B.E.
  17. Hi Kurt, Here is the link to plan I purchased. http://prints.rmg.co.uk/art/534442/lines-plan-of-vessels-surly-1806-and-cheerful-1806 Cheers, B.E.
  18. Post 5 Bulkheads. Nice to have these heavy cleanly cut bulkheads provided for me, I particularly like the scored reference lines for the ports and wales. All the Bulkheads slipped easily onto the false keel. 3820 At this point I made a simple support board to keep the keel upright whilst I fitted the bulkheads. Bulkheads not glued at this stage. 3823 Get my first real impression of what a chunky little vessel she will be, lovin' it already. The b/h's should have the scored reference lines for the ports and wale facing either forward or aft depending on whether they are designated by letters or numbers. Forward for numbers, aft for letters. Chuck has confirmed to me that b/h ⊕ can be placed either way around. 3835 Starting with b/h ⊕ I work fore and aft to glue them into place, checking for square and level as I go. 3837 3839 I use a high quality pva for this purpose, which has a 5 minute grab, sufficient working time, but short enough to hold quickly once positioned. With the bulkheads fixed it remains to fix the Bow and Port fillers. 3934 So far so good, then........ When it came to the Port fillers I hit a problem. The fillers run between the external edges of bulkheads J and M., leaving just a wedge of the shorter bulkhead L protruding, which will be faired away. 4013 On the starboard side of my cutter they fit perfectly, as above. ...but on the Portside seem a tad short. Hhmm have I got either Bulkheads J or M slightly out of square, I spent so much time squaring them up, or has a bit of warp crept into the bulkhead. Annoying and barely a mm but sufficient to need a filler to make up the difference. Rather than try to get the bulkheads off again and perhaps end up with more trouble I added a sliver of Boxwood to the aft end of the filler pieces. 4008 To bring the filler sets up to the level of the Bulkhead extensions I split a spare filler piece and used one thickness of ply. 4012 Onto the far more testy business of fairing next. B.E.
  19. That is from a painting by John Dews the Yorkshire Marine artist, depicting the Sir Winston Churchill off Whitby. She is wearing the Flag of St George, the English Flag. As she is not a naval vessel, where the flag and position may have more relevance, it may simply be indicative that she is an English ship. At the stern she wears the Red Ensign, of the British merchant marine. B.E.
  20. Hi Paul, I didn't coat the plates I wanted them to gain a natural patina over time. I was careful when handling the model not to touch the plates with my bare hands. Cheers, B.E.
  21. Cheers mobbsie, Whatever the limitations of the Proxxon machines I have are, at my skill level I doubt I will ever test them. Best wishes to you and yours for Christmas and the New Year. B.E.
  22. .....and necessary I think Michael to support the hull whilst working. I will end up with three different supports, the one above, one that holds the keel, stem, and stern in a fixed position, and a third that supports the hull inverted. I used the Band saw because the material was quite thick at 9mm but the curves were relatively gentle which the Band saw could handle. I also find that the more rigid blade allows me to cut straight lines freehand better than the scroll saw. The downside is that the Band saw is quite noisy compare to the scroll saw. B.E.
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