Blue Ensign

Checking the Main Sheets. I recently fitted the Main Course Clue Garnets, but before permanently tying off the running end at the Main Topsail sheet bitts, it is worth checking the lead for the Main Sheet. The running end passes thro' the outer bitt sheave and is secured. Checking the lead for the Main sheets. According to Steel:- SHEETS reeve through the sheet-block at the clues. The standing-part is seized to an eye-bolt with a thimble on the quarters. The leading-part leads through a sheave-hole on the same side under the half-deck, and belays to a range-cleat in the waist. The kit plans: Show the standing part attached to an eyebolt fixed to the rail above the aftermost gunport. The running end passes thro' a hole in the side above the standing part and belays to a timberhead. The ffm in Vol 11 shows the eyebolt for the standing end of the sheet directly below the fixed block ( 12.25 / 12.28) The standing part is hitched to an eyebolt in the ships side below the aft fixed block in the waist. 1¼" dia (0.5mm) 2⁵⁄⁸" in clear(0.94mm) The running end passes thro' the fixed block and belays to either a cleat or timberhead forward of the fixed block. According to Lees:- Standing part - eyebolt in side level with the Mizen mast Running part - thro' a lead block seized to an eyebolt above and just forward of the standing part, thro' a sheave in ships side just forward of the QD break and belayed to a cleat. My approach Looking at the run of the sheet line; to take it directly thro' the fixed block presents a very sharp angle which also binds the line against a swivel gun post. This arrangement looks awkward to me and for this reason the use of a lead block makes sense. The following pics show a trial run of the leads. The sheet block Run of Main Sheet. Having passed thro' the lead block the line passes thro' the fixed block atop the bulwark and belays to the timberhead. The sheet lines are a length of Amati line, the actual lines will be fixed later in the build. B.E. 10/11/2016

Foreyard clue garnets 9" block(3.57mm) 2½" strop (0.31mm) Sheet block 14" (5.5mm) strop 4½" (0.57mm) Tack 5½" cabled line (0.69mm) These are part rigged now before the bunt and Leechlines get in the way of timber hitching the standing part of the clue line. Buntlines - Fore Course Steel:- THE FORE-SAIL BUNTLINES reeve through the leg and fall-block, and through a double-block at the aft part of the top; then through a double-block under the fore part of the top, and through the blocks upon the yard, and lead down the fore side of the sail, and clinch to the cringles in the foot. The fall reeves through the *leg-block; the standing-part makes fast round the breast-rail, and the leading-part through a sheave-hole in the breast-work, and belays round the rail. *Interesting that Steel writing in 1794 still refers to a leg-block when Lees states with some certainty that two single blocks stropped together replaced the leg-block in 1773. 2" line = 0.25mmø at scale (0.25mm Morope) Lines run from the inner yard block up thro' the inner sheaves of the fore and aft blocks beneath the top.* Thence thro' the upper of the fall block combo blocks, back thro' the blocks beneath the top (outer sheaves) and then to the outer yard block where it is passed thro' and knotted to secure. *Note: The Middle double blocks below the Fore top take the (two) Buntlines. The Outer double blocks take the Spritsail brace lines (inner sheave) and (Single) Leech line (outer sheave) Inner single block (2.5mm) takes the Sprit Topsail brace lines. Fore course Leech lines Steel:- LEECH-LINES reeve through the spritsail-brace-block, under the top, then through the block upon the yard, and the standing-part makes fast with a clinch to the upper bowline-bridle; the leading-part then reeves through a double-block, at the aft part of the top, and upon the forecastle. Steel doesn't mention any use of a whip in relation to the Leech fall as he does with the buntlines but Lees does. I can't imagine that the system would differ from the main course so I have fitted a block to facilitate the Leech falls as I did with the Main. The Leech line belays to the Belfry rail, with the running part also passing thro' a sheave. The whip fall belayed at the Belfry rails; the outer one is the Leechline, the centre one the Buntlines, the inner ones the fall to the Main course buntlines. B.E. 09/11/2016

So Main Course Buntlines Mk11. I have dispensed with the leg and fall blocks and replaced them with two common singles stropped together, an arrangement that came into play around 1773. These lead forward down to the Foc'sle Belfry rail where they are belayed. The running end of the whip passes thro' the sheave in the rail, the standing part is timber hitched adjacent to it. When deciding on the position of the stropped together blocks, consideration must be given to hauling room. On a bare stick model with the buntlines hauled up to the yard block, the distance at least equal to the drop from yard to foot cringle must be allowed for. This positions them about half way between Fore and Main masts. Rigging them is one thing but getting the lines to lie without twist is entirely another. The trick is to orientate the blocks and stiffen the seizing between the upper and lower blocks. Lead of the Buntlines thro' the forward blocks beneath the top. (the outer line is the Leechline which runs to the Qtrdeck rail.) Trying to get the coils right on the rail is a frustrating exercise, tight space, springy Morope, high risk of snagging existing belays, and having to manipulate the lines with tweezers in each hand. Not quite there yet! B.E.

Main yard clue garnets 9" block(3.57mm) 2½" strop (0.31mm) Sheet block 14" (5.5mm) strop 4½" (0.57mm) Tack 5½" cabled line (0.69mm) The ffm indicates the use of specialised shoulder clue blocks. but Lees says that the shoulder blocks were replaced with common blocks around 1773.(reason enough for me to not bother with making shoulder blocks) The ffm however in neither narrative or rigging plan indicate the rigging of the clue garnets on a model without sails. The kit plans do however include these lines. To rig the clue/sheet/ tack combo on a model without sails I have taken Lees approach. The strop of the clue block is passed thro' the strop of the sheet block, and the wall knot of the tack is passed thro' the clue strop to secure the three together. The standing part of the clue is timber hitched to the yard a few feet outside yard block. It is then taken down thro' the clue block combo back up thro' the yard block and down to belay at the Main Topsail sheet bitts thro the outer sheave. I have used Syren 5/32 blocks to match the yard blocks. A good time to fit these as access later will be difficult, even so temporary removal of the elmtree pumps is required to get to the bitt sheaves. Using the tack line to equalise the drop of the clue garnets these can be secured. The Tack leads forward thro' the Chesstree sheave and thro' the fixed block which sits beneath the Fore Channel stool, to belay on the large forward cleat. Tricky to get at now the brass decoration is in place, the end of the tack was stiffened with pva and then sliced at a long angle to provide a taper and is fed thro' the sheave. The tack cannot be secured at this stage as it will get in the way of replacing the Pinnace on its spare topmasts which were removed to allow rigging access. Trouble is completing the tack and sheets will leave no room to replace the Pinnace, and with the Pinnace in place, belaying the Main Tack and Fore Sheets will be made somewhat tricky with much reduced access. The situation is more complicated on my Pegasus as I have fitted gangboards between the QD and Foc'sle, not such an issue on those Swans without. Just remembered in time before I fit the leech and Buntlines I have yet to do the Futtock ratlines, the bunts and leeches would have seriously impeded the process. The vexed question of Main course buntline leads. There is an argument for leaving the bunts and leech lines off a model without sails, such as will be the case with my Pegasus, but I like to see them. For the purpose of a bare stick model the buntlines are knotted and pulled up taut to the yard blocks. Both the kit rigging plans and the ffm(22.9) indicate the buntline falls belayed at the Quarterdeck breast rail having passed thro' the yard blocks and the fore and aft blocks toggled beneath the Main top. Now this seems eminently practical, and an arrangement I followed. However, had I put my brain in gear and double checked, I would have seen that contemporary sources suggest differently. I would also have saved myself some considerable time in rigging the bunts. Buntlines rigged with Leg and Fall blocks, and belayed not without a little trouble to the Quarterdeck rail. This is what Steel has to say. THE MAINSAIL BUNTLINES reeve as for the fore-sail, and lead forward upon the forecastle THE FORE-SAIL BUNTLINES reeve through the *leg and fall-block, and through a double-block at the aft part of the top; then through a double-block under the fore part of the top, and through the blocks upon the yard, and lead down the fore side of the sail, and clinch to the cringles in the foot. The fall reeves through the leg-block; the standing-part makes fast round the breast-rail, and the leading-part through a sheave-hole in the breast-work, and belays round the rail. Lees says:- From 1680 main buntlines were taken forward being rove as follows:- one end of the buntline was made fast to cringle of the sail, the other end rove thro' a block on the yard, thro' a block under the fore part of the main top, thro' one sheave of a *shoe block, back up thro' another block under the fore end of the main top, thro' another yard block, and down to another cringle. Thro' the other sheave of the shoe block a line was rove, both end being made fast to the fo'csle rails. From 1773 two single blocks stropped head to head were used instead of shoe blocks. * Note Steel refers to Leg and fall blocks, and Lees to Shoe blocks. There is a difference. The description by Steel in relation to the Mainsail buntlines, referring to the Foresail leads, gives the impression that they should lead thro' the aft blocks beneath the tops before coming forward to lead upon the Fo'csle. Lees interpretation with the buntlines passing thro' only the forward block beneath the Main top before leading to the Foc'sle, makes more sense. So nothing for it but to unreove the buntlines and re-rig with the leads forward. This arrangement will cross the waist area, so I think it better to rig the Fore yard buntlines first, which do lead up thro' the blocks beneath the top aft and belay at the Foc'sle rail. This is not the first time I have been led astray by taking the ffm at face value. note to self: check all sources before committing. So having made a dog's breakfast of the buntline arrangements on the Maincourse, I'll see if I can make a better job of the Leech lines. Leechlines 2" line = 0.25mmø at scale (0.25mm Morope) Only one each side, again passing thro' the yard block and up thro' the outer sheave of the outer blocks beneath the top. The ffm indicates belaying the Main course leech lines to the Topsail Bitts, whereas Steel says..... LEECH-LINES reeve through the block upon the yard, and the outer end makes fast with a clinch to the upper bowline-bridle. The leading-part reeves through the double-block at the forepart of the top, and through a double-block at the aft-part of the top; a single block is turned into the lower end, and a whip-fall reeved through it. The standing-part makes fast to the breast-rail, and the leading-part through a block under the breast-rail, and belays round the rail. Given the far more difficult belay to the barely accessible Topsail bitts, I have opted for the rail belay with a whip-fall/single block arrangement. The line passes down thro' the lower shrouds, the whip and fall feeds thro' the block and the standing end is timber hitched to the rail with the running end passing thro' the sheave in the rail upright to belay. A needle file is used to add some resistance to the coil during the belay process. B.E.

Trouble with Fore Topsail Yard Tye halyards Rigging can be a frustrating exercise particularly when available sources conflict with each other, and things just don't look right. The Running Rigging plan of the ffm indicates the fall to the Tye Halyard attaching to the channels on a long strop adjacent to the belfry, inside and just aft of the sixth deadeye. The kit plan shows a similar arrangement. When I trial this arrangement it becomes quickly apparent that there is a tendency to chafe against the Fore top, Topmast shrouds, and Lower shrouds I work on the principal that if it binds or chafes the lead must be wrong. I have moved the attachment ring as far back on the channel as possible, but even so the lines run very close to the top. Lees says - close abaft and inboard of the second topmast backstay. (Pegasus only has one Topmast Backstay but this attaches to the stool aft of the channel.) All the references I have looked at show the Halyard clear of the Fore top on contemporary models. Even with moving the channel position aft the halyards pass very close to the aft side of the top and the Topmast shroud. (The clip is to temporarily hold the Topsail yard down against the pull of the halyard.) Lead of the halyard down to the channel. One other fitting not mentioned in the ffm, but noted in Lees, is a bullseye stropped to the Tye thro' and around the Topmast backstay for the purpose of reducing twist in the tye block given the long length of the tackle. This also has the effect of holding the halyard a little away from the Fore top, which assists in modelling terms at least. There are photo's (plates 32 and 39) in Lees book of a 20 gun ship model showing this feature. This is a shot taken at the same angle as that in Lees book. Lees says: During all periods the block in the end of the tye was connected by a strop to a loose bullseye on the Topmast backstay.(usually the second backstay from forward.) The lower blocks of the halyard to the tye were always seized or hooked close abaft and inboard of the second topmast backstay, or the stay carrying the bullseye. When the stay came to a stool the halyard block came to an eyebolt in the ships side, and when the stay came to the fore channels the halyard block was secured to an eyebolt in the channel. This raises more inconsistencies as on Pegasus the backstay is on a stool but the halyard is on the channel according to ffm and the kit plans. There is little room in that area on Pegasus to attach an eyebolt to the ships side abaft of the stay to take the halyard strop, although an eyebolt in the stool abaft the stay might work, but is not evidenced in any model I have seen. The method as I have rigged it works, but there is always a nagging doubt...... Steel says: The tie-blocks are then spliced in their lower ends, and connected by their haliards to a single-block, that is strapt with a long strap, with a hook and thimble, that hooks to a swivel-eye-bolt in the channel on each side: the leading-part comes in through a block lashed on each side; the foremost ones abaft the forecastle, and the after ones on the quarter-deck. Fore and Main Topsail Yard lifts. There are some variations in the arrangements of the Topsail yard lifts, but this is what Steel has to say. LIFT-BLOCKS are strapt with an eye to the size of the yard-arm. The lift reeves through the lower sheave in the sister-block in the topmast-shrouds, and through the block on the yard-arm. The standing-part hooks to a becket round the topmast-cap, and the leading-part leads down the side of the mast, and belays to the dead-eyes in the lower shrouds. This is the arrangement I have followed. For the half hitched span around the topmast cap I have used 30mm 'tarred' line (133mm long) with a becket in each end. The running end of the lift is fitted with a hook to attach to the span. The kit instructions show a toggle fitted into the end of the running lift line which fits thro' the span eye to secure. This is a valid alternative to a hook, but as I had some of Chuck's little 3mm black plastic hooks which are perfect for the job I went with them (the brass hooks are slightly bigger) Having hooked into the span the lift runs down thro' the yard block, back up thro' the lower sheave of the sister block, and down thro' the top to belay at the lower shrouds. I have opted for shroud cleats which are much easier to belay to than tying off at the rail. The downside is that attaching shrouds cleats is also a fiddly business. Fitting the lifts also involves fitting the Fore and Main T'Gallant masts, as with the other topmasts no glue is involved but for the moment there is plenty of rigging work lower down. I next attend to the Mizen Topsail Lifts. There are eyes (or in my case False eyes) spliced around the yard arm) taken up thro' the lower sheave of the sister blocks and down to belay at the rail. B.E.

Topmast Tyes. For those following TFFM there is a confusion. ffm para 19.15 indicates a 14" single block for the yard tye. (as I had fitted) 19.24 second para indicates the tye passing thro' the aft sheave of the double tye block on the yard?? Re-checking, Steel indicates a single 14" yard block; I think David Antscherl has used the block requirements indicated in Steel, but followed the rigging arrangement given in Lees (p83) which calls for a double yard block and tyes suspended from the mast head. This is a damned nuisance and presents me with a problem given that the yards are now fitted, together with served strops and secured parrels, both tricky time consuming operations. However, This is what Steel has to say. TYE-BLOCKS lash at the topmast-head close up to the rigging, under the collar of the stay, as the lower ones; and the blocks on the yards lash under the fore part of the yard, as the lower ones, and reeve with a double tye, in large ships, and a single tye, like the lower, in small ones. The standing-parts of the double-tyes clinch round the mast-head, then reeve through the double-block upon the yard, and up again, and reeve through the block on each side the mast-head. The tie-blocks are then spliced in their lower ends, and connected by their haliards to a single-block, that is strapt with a long strap, with a hook and thimble, that hooks to a swivel-eye-bolt in the channel on each side: the leading-part comes in through a block lashed on each side; the foremost ones abaft the forecastle, and the after ones on the quarter-deck As Steel has indicated single blocks in his tables I accept that he considers a sixth rate sloop is a small ship and with the narrative qualification above, for me it is sufficient reason to leave matters alone. Furthermore his tables specifically show use of a double block for vessels of 20 guns upwards, whilst this requirement is lined out in the table column for those of 18 - 14 guns. Make of it what you will, but I am content to leave things alone. Tyes - 4½" line / 14" thin double blocks. I am using Syren 0.45mm line and 5mm blocks. The first block is false spliced into one end,(which is easy to do) the line is passed thro' the block suspended below the trestletrees on one side, down thro' the yard block, back up thro' the upper block beneath the trestletrees and the other block is spliced in. (not quite so easy) It helps to draw the first block up as far as it will go to allow maximum working line to splice in the second. When equalised the tye blocks should hang about level with the lower mast cap. For the lower single block (14" (5mm)) there is a long strop,(0.45mm line) hook and thimble arrangement attached to a ringbolt in the Channels. The hooks I made from eyebolts, and the thimbles from flattened brass eyelets. The overall length of the strops on my Pegasus worked out at 37mm including hook and block. Halyards These are of 0.30mm scale line attached to the lower single block to make up the tackle with the Tye block, with the fall belayed to the rail. The strop extends the block above the rail The Starboard side strop hooked to the channels, it is secured around a thimble and false spliced. I won't tie off the halyards for some time yet as they tend to block out access to the Quarterdeck. B.E.

Mizen Topsail Yard I am rigging the yards in the lowered position and the ffm (p117) advocates pinning the Mizen Topsail Yard to the mast to provide some resistance to the pull of the lifts, there being no counter available from the braces which in this case are insufficiently angled to do the job. This is good advice which I have taken. As my Pegasus has a pole head Mizen I have also adopted the use of a Truss parrel to secure the yard to the mast, rather than the Ribs and truck arrangement which would in any case be pretty small on the Mizen Topsail Yard. It is convenient at this point to complete the Mizen Tye and Halyard, not least because a tackle has to be rigged on the Mizen top. The tye is eye spliced around the yard and is taken thro' the sheave below the hounds of the Mizen topmast. I used Syren 0.45mm line. (2) 3mm single blocks are required; one spliced into the tye and the other hooked to the starboard Trestletree inside of the Top rail. With the yard in the lowered position care has to be taken to position the upper tye block correctly, to allow sufficient hauling distance in the tackle to raise the yard. The fall is attached to the strop of the Upper block before making up the tackle and then passing thro' the top to belay around a mast cleat on the Mizen Mast. It will quickly become apparent why it is not a good idea to fix the Top rail too soon on the Mizen, or for that matter the other mast tops either. The horses take a bit of disturbance during the yard fitting and will require a little adjustment once the process is completed. This completes the attachment of the Topsail Yards to the masts. I will now move onto the Topsail Lifts, and tyes for the Fore and Main Topmast yards which are currently held by temporary lines. A good time also to review what other elements of the running rigging would best be fitted at this stage. B.E.

Main Topmast Yard. Requirements. For those who may be interested this is my sequence of attaching fittings to the Topsail Yards. 1) Tye, sheet, and Clue blocks 2) Yard boom irons (inner) 3) Stirrups 4) Horses 5) Brace Pendants 6) Lift Blocks 7) Flemish Horses. 8) Boom Irons (yard arm) Same old same old with the Main Topmast Yard, once the blocks are attached the stirrups are fitted and stiffened. There's a fair bit of needle work involved in yard rigging. The Parrel line is fitted over the yard and the Ribs and trucks slipped on. A temporary tye is used to support the yard whilst the parrel lines are taken around the mast. A clip is used to prevent the beads running off the end of the lines during the process. Working on the parrels is a tricky business, constantly have to be aware of the head visor bashing against the mast and yards as I peer in to get focus. Once the lines are around the mast and yard things get a little easier. Onto the Mizen Topsail yard which thankfully has fewer attachments. B.E.

Parrels The kit supplies brass etched parrel ribs but at near 8.5mm long are over-scale. The correct scale size is around 5.5mm long, with a Max Width of 1.6mm, and a thickness of 0.4mm. There are six ribs / five trucks in two rows. Trucks - 1.6mm Ø and 2.28mm long. 0.25mm scale line (115mm long) x2. I found some smaller brass etched ribs, the origin of which I forget but they were ok for size and I had enough for both Fore and Main Topsail Yards. Without them I would have made some from boxwood strip. The one end of the parrel lines were secured to the yard before it was fitted to the mast, along with the ribs and trucks. and a temporary tye line was fitted to hang the yard from the topmast head whilst the fiddly business of attachment was completed. For the trucks I had some slightly elongated seed beads which fit the bill. For the line I used Syren 0.3mmØ stuff. Don't make the line too tight or it will be difficult to get the tye block on the yard to sit centrally due to the thickness of the served strop. I will now move onto rigging the Main and Mizen Topsail yards. B.E.

Topmast Yards Up to this point I have not attended to the Fore Topmast rigging, for which I will need to attach the Jib, a task I am leaving as late as possible. Without the encumbrance of the Topmast stays it will be easier to fit the Topmast yards, so this will be the next step. Fore Topmast Yard. Requirements. (1) 14" Tye Block (5.5mm) 4" strop.(0.50mm)0.45mm Syren served with 0.1mm Morope (2) 7" Buntline blocks (2.77mm) (2) 6" Sheet Blocks (2.38mm) (6) 8" blocks Clue, Lift.(2½")strop (0.30mm syren line) and Brace Blocks (3.17mm) 2" line for Stirrups (0.25mm) 3" line for Horses / Flemish Horse( 0.37mm) Studding Boom irons. 18.0' long (85.7mm) 3" line (0.4mm) 14" parrel ribs (5.55mm) The yards are made but no fittings attached, a time consuming exercise ahead. Topsail Tye Block with attached Buntline blocks is first on the yard. Drilling the yard for the Boom irons. Boom fitting My method of rigging the yard footropes and stirrups I more fully covered earlier in the build. Fitting the Stirrups, They were stiffened using pva. A brass bar is used to maintain the stirrup length across the yard. Horses and Flemish Horses fitted. Brace Pendants. According to Steel the pendants are 3 fathoms each in length = 18' and the tffm repeats this measurement in the narrative. (p123) but... this seems a very long length for a brace pendant, and the drawing on p122 at 1:48 scale = 45mm.equal to a (7') pendant. The tffm rigging plan sheet at 1:96 also scales to an equivalent (7'6") Lees says 0.3 of yard length = to 49.5mm (10' 3") for Pegasus @1:64. This drawing from Steel's work shows pendants more to the scale I had envisaged, but it seems to go against his own narrative. The kit plans show Brace Pendants which are also are a direct fit to Lees 0.3 of yard length. Having faffed around I have finally settled on the 0.3 ratio which also suits my eye. The final pair of blocks over the yard arm are the lift blocks which are eye spliced and butt against the brace pendants. This completes the fitting out of the yard attachments. In my next post I will deal with the parrel, and yard attachment.

The Gaff Fitting Requirements. 3pr (6) 6" brail blocks (2.38mm)2.5mm (1) 6" peak halyard block, with hook(1) 6" double block at Mast Cap.(with hook) 2" strops (0.25mm) (1) 4" ensign block (1.58mm) 2mm (2) 5" Mizen topsail brace blocks (1.98mm)2mm (2) 7" throat halyard blocks (2.78mm) 3mm 2" strop / span/ halyard lines. Parrel beads 1mm As I reached this point I realised that I should have added cleats around the Mizen mast, a task much easier done before I stepped the mast and added the Mizen standing rigging. There are six cleats around the Mizen mast, and it was a little tricky to get them evenly spaced and level with the mast in place. I used Syren 5mm cleats for the job which I drilled to take wire pins to secure them the mast. The Gaff fitted, the parrels are some conveniently sized elongated beads. The throat halyard block is hooked to the top of the Gaff. The Gaff is raised. The Throat halyard tackle can be seen in this shot. The upper block is long stropped around the Mizen Trestletrees, and a 0.20mm halyard line is seized in. The Peak Halyard in place, it was necessary to tweak the top rails to allow a clean run for the tackle. A total of 13 blocks are required to rig the Gaff. The Brail blocks are quite tiny (I used 2mm+ blocks) and are required to be stropped close together either end of a very short line to then be seized around the gaff. Temporary Vangs have been fitted to assist the rigging of the Gaff. B.E.

The Crossjack Yard Truss 3" truss (0.4mm) 7" blocks, (2.77mm) 2" falls(0.25mm) This is a single truss with a thimble to the port side of slings, the pendant seized to s/bd side, and the tackle belayed in the Port side Mizen channels. Pendant falls belayed in the Mizen chains. The slings I have gone with a simple arrangement seized around the mast top above the shrouds. Morope 0.4mm line was used for the purpose. The Crowsfeet have been disarranged slightly during the process but I have purposely not tied them off as yet to allow for re-adjustment. Before I move onto the Topsail yards I think I will attend to the leech and buntlines to the lower yards as these too belay at the base of the Fore and Main masts. Slings. 3" line 24' long Checking around for other attachments. Lower Yard lift blocks Fore and Main - 9"(3.6mm) 3" strops, 3" fall 0.4mm (180') 33.75" Lower Yard lift blocks Mizen 6"(2.38mm) 1½" strop. 1½"falls(0.20mm) I used Morope 0.4mm line for the lift falls, which are belayed on the Fo'csle timber heads adjacent to the Foremast, and Quarter deck rail for the Main yard lifts. For the Mizen I used Syren 0.20mm line. Falls belayed to the rail adjacent to the mast. The upper blocks are hooked to eyebolts beneath the caps. I won't belay the lift falls at present, and I also need to work out how to best form the coils of excess line, there are no convenient belay pins on Pegasus to assist the process. Topsail Yard Tye blocks 14" (5.5mm) 4" strop(0.50) These are conveniently attached at this point before the Topmast caps are fitted. They are suspended from the Fore and Main Topmast heads above the standing rigging in a long strop sufficient to hang just below the trestletrees. I trialled the strop length and calculated that it was 49mm in length, Syren 0.45mm line was used for the purpose. I sealed the line with pva 2mm short of each end, unravelled the very ends and joined them by finger rolling using pva. The join was then painted with more pva and left to dry. This method works very well with Syren line. The strops are dyed and secured around the 5mm Pear wood blocks. The strop join is placed at the bottom of the block where a spot of pva further reinforces the strength. Tye blocks fitted to the Main Topmast head B.E.

Main Yard completion The yard irons are fitted. Studding booms tried for size Truss pendants The fitting of the Main yard truss pendants has proven the most difficult to date. The tackle hooks onto an eyebolt at the foot of the Main mast. Access is inhibited by the boat on the gallows, the Brake pumps at the mast side, and the Fore winch bar of the main pumps behind which the tackle has to be fed. Add to this that the main yard arms inhibit getting close to the job whilst wearing an optivisor. At least I could remove the boat and spars as one unit, and the Brake pumps can be lifted off their mountings. Main Jeers. 7" line (0.9mm) (4)12" double blocks ( 4.76mm) (2)hooks, 72' 0f line.(13.5" to scale) Rigging the Jeers tyes is fairly pain free, but the same can't be said of the tye falls. Tye falls 2½" tackle line (0.30mm) 180' of line (33.75" at scale) Belaying the tye falls proved equally as frustrating when it came to feeding the line end thro' the Bitt sheaves. These are all but hidden behind the Pump casings with the Quarterdeck overhang above. Much earlier in the build, anticipating the problem, I had threaded line thro' the Bitts with the hope that I could attach it to the tye falls and pull them thro' for belaying. The slight thickening of the spliced join prevented passage and in the end I had to resort to paring down and stiffening the line point, which after some 90 minutes of frustration I managed to get thro'. The moral of the tale make the sheave holes oversize to accommodate the line. B.E.

Rigging the Fore yard Jeer Tye falls. For the falls 160' of tackle line is required scaling to 30" of line. I have used Syren 0.20mm line for the falls A 5mm double block is stropped with a hook and the falls line is attached. Much easier to rig the jeers tackle as the eyebolt is much more accessible at the foot of the foremast. The excess line is fed thro' the inner of the bitt sheaves and is belayed. I made up separate coils to drape over the Bitts. All the elements are visible in this shot, the Jeer falls, the truss falls, and the Topmast stays. Note the span shackles in the deck for the fish davit. This completes the rigging around the foremast for the present. I will now move on to rig the Main and Crossjack yards. B.E.

Main topmast backstays 4½" line(0.57mm) For this I am using Morope 0.6mm. The interesting feature of the backstays is the 'D' shaped splicing arrangement where it fits around the masthead. Forming the 'false' splice The bar is served with a good length of excess serving line which will used to cover the required length down the stay. With the 'bar' ca'd to the stay the individual legs are then served. The unstained served stay. The completed stay on the masthead, any imperfections in the serving join will hopefully be covered by the stay collars of the Topmast stays. The backstays will not be fastened off until much later in the build to allow for better access. One point to note with backstays is that the kit allows for two pairs of Main Topmast backstays and has the number of deadeyes along the channel for this. The ffm has only one pair of backstays indicated for the main Topmast. I had slipped betwixt two stools here and had to retro-fit an additional pair of backstays to the Main Topmast. B.E.

Main Topmast stays Having fitted the Foreyard truss and jeer tyes I can now return to the topmast stays. Topmast Preventer Stay Starting with the Preventer stay that lies below the topmast stay. The lead block for this stay which attaches to the Fore mast below the hounds was covered earlier. (p92) Requirements. 4" line.(0.50mm) 14" long tackle block.(5.55mm) 7" block (2.77mm) with 3" strop(0.38mm) hooked to port side of the mast tackle 2½" line (0.30mm) 0.45mm Syren line has been used for the Topmast Preventer stay. A mouse has also to be fashioned for the stay, my method is covered on p85 so I won't repeat it here. Trial fitting the position of the mouse. ..and the completed mouse after 'treatment' With the stay fitted around the masthead it is lead thro' the lead block beneath the Foremast hounds and the Long Tackle block is seized in. The other half of the tackle, a 3mm single block, has a hook fashioned from an eyebolt ca'd into the base, around which the strop is secured. The tackle line (I have used Syren 0.20mm line) is secured thro' the strop at the top end of the block. This is a little simplification but the space between mast and bitts is very tight and the detail won't ultimately be visible. Trying to catch the hook on the eyebolt proved to be a testy little exercise, as did the hitching the falls, which managed at every turn to snag on each and every fitting of the foc'sle. How many of us with total concentration, having finally got a line threaded thro' an awkwardly placed block pulled on the end with a sense of relief, only to find that the excess has snagged on a gun dismounting it from the carriage. At this stage of rigging very soft hands are required, with a pause after each small movement of line to check there is no snagging. Main Topmast Stay 0.63mm Syren line for the Topmast stay. A repeat exercise for the Topmast Stay, just needed to tweak the Fore top rail height to allow a clear run the lead block around the masthead. The completed masthead with stays in position. Lead of the stays. Long tackle block falls of the Topmast stays, Preventer stay to port. (Temporarily secured at present) Note: The Backstays are fitted over the shrouds before the Topmast stays are rigged. B.E.

Fitting the Fore Yard I am fitting the Fore yard at this point to maximise the finger space behind the mast to rig the Truss Pendants. Requirements. Small thimbles, (2). 4" line, (0.50mm ). 24' long (114mm). (4) 8" double blocks,(3mm). 2½" strop hooks,(1mm). 2" tackle line (0.25mm). 96' long.(457mm) Attaching the thimbles and pendant line to the yards is fiddly but not difficult with the yards off the model, but fitting once the yards are in place can turn into a very frustrating exercise. There are details of fitting the pendants in the ffm. Lees, and Longridge's Anatomy of Nelson's ships, which I think is the clearer description, and drawing. The truss pendants are temporarily fixed to the eyebolts to mark the point where the blocks will be attached. Fixing the pendant block. Starboard tackle rigged. Next up the jeer tyes 7" line (0.9mm) (4)12" double blocks ( 4.76mm) (2)hooks, 2½" tackle line (0.30mm) Conveniently Syren do both 0.88mm and 0.30mm line. According to ffm 60' (scaling to 12")of jeer tye line is required. This works out pretty spot on. Tye threaded thro' the jeer blocks. Jeer tyes (but wrong side of the yards at present.) This shot shows the completed jeers tyes and truss pendants. Before I rig the Jeer tye falls I will return to fit the Topmast stays. The tackle for these are fitted inside the jeer falls, between the bitts and mast and are best dealt with first. B.E.

Mizen Topmast Stay This can now be conveniently fitted. I covered the trial rig of this stay back on p92 of the log about half way down the page, so I won't repeat all the detail here. In summary I have followed Steel's version involving thimbles strapped around the Mainmast below the hounds, a thimble spliced into the Topmast stay which is hauled taut with a lanyard between it and the lower of the mast thimbles. The downside of rigging this method is that because of the thimble spliced into the stay end it has to be rigged in reverse with the splice around the topmast head being completed last. The upside is that trying to secure the lashing to an eyebolt at the Mainmast foot,(the ffm alternative), even more tricky, is avoided. Stay secured with a lanyard between the two thimbles. The other end of the stay is secured to the Mizen topmast with an eye and is served around the masthead. A little more tricky this as it has to be done on the model as the other end is already secured. Serving in progress. An eclectic arrangement of clamps makes the process easier. Secured around the masthead. Mizen Topmast stay completed. Before I move onto the Main Topmast Stays it may be worth considering whether it would be better to rig the Fore yard first. I am thinking particularly about the truss pendants, tricky little beggars, the securing of which requires as much finger room as possible behind the mast. B.E.

Rattlin' down Ratlines 1" line (0.13mmø) Fore and Main. ¾" line (0.09mmø) Mizen. To try to maintain a differential I have gone with Coats cotton No.50 thread which has a 0.15mm ø for the Fore and Main Ratlines, and Morope 0.1mm ø for the Mizen. The Mizen shrouds were quite testy given the relative thinness of both shroud and ratline with greater risk of distortion which I tried to minimise by fitting every fifth line and then infilling. For several of the rows I found it necessary to fix the central hitch with pva and then re-do the outer hitches to counter a slight inward pull on the shrouds. The lines were then painted with diluted pva to stiffen them to counter further any tendency to inpull. Things move along much quicker with the Main and Fore Topmast shrouds, but I find the process very tiring on the arms, neck and back, so to this end I use folded towels to lift my elbows to a more comfortable position - it helps. Fortunately there are no ratlines involved with the T'gallant shrouds. Holding the line while the first hitch is applied. I use a simple template to fix the initial run of lines. Completed Fore topmast shrouds Completed Main Topmast shrouds. 06/08/2016 B.E.

Completion of Topmast Shrouds Rigging now tidied up, well as far as my failing eyesight allows, lanyards secured, Sister blocks and Futtock staves attached. Topmast Futtock staves. - 2½" served line - 0.3mm at scale. For these I used 34 gauge copper wire (0.20mm ø) served with 0.1mm line.Ca was applied along the wire beneath the serving line. These staves are only 10mm long at scale. Sister blocks secured to Mizen topmast head. and also to the Fore Topmast head. Looking tidier now. Before I start ratlin' down two things I need to attend to:- The first - re-fixing the Swivel mounts and swivels to the tops, The Swivels are removable, just sitting on pins in the base. The second - attaching the shroud cleats. These are courtesy of Syren. At present they are secured to the shrouds only with a spot of ca. the lashing is yet to do. The rear of the cleat I modified by cutting a groove to better fit the shroud, and I also shortened the aft side of the cleat. Not sure yet whether to blacken the cleats. Onto Rattlin' down now. B.E.

Pegasus Topmast Rigging The Main topmast is set into place and as with the lower masts the pendants of tackles are the first to go over the mast head. These are served 3" (0.38mm ø)line with thimbles spliced in and a cut splice around the masthead. I am using 0.4mm Morope. The topmast sits snugly on its fids and the cap is a good fit so no glue is being used. The Fore and Main topmast shrouds are 4½" line (0.57mm ø) I am using 0.63mm Syren. Starting with the starboard pair of shrouds the serving point is marked for second shroud, the first shroud is served overall. Quite a trick business attaching the deadeyes to the served shrouds, they fight against the turn around the deadeye and prove very difficult to pierce with a needle. The subsequent shrouds are a lot easier to turn in. lanyards 2½" line,(0.30mmø) - I am using Syren 0.30mm. ratlines 1" line (0.13mmø) A potential problem if using the kit provided topmast cross and trestletrees is that there is little room if you are serving the topmast shrouds. Sister blocks - These specialised blocks are fitted between the first and second shrouds. I have fashioned mine from two 4mm single blocks flattened at the ends and glued together, and then further tweaked. The bottom sheave of the sister block takes the Topsail yard lifts The kit plans don't feature this item but indicate a single block seized to the topmast shrouds. Mizen topmast shrouds 2½" line (0.3mm dia line) 5" deadeyes. 2mm. Lanyards 1½" line ( 0.2mm dia line) There are two pairs of shrouds required each side, but the aftermost one is the topmast backstay. The foremost shroud is served overall. The kit arrangement shows two topmast backstays set up with deadeyes hooked into eyebolts just forward of the Quarter Badge. Lees indicates the use of a stool or a deadeye plate bolted to the ships side. The ffm (Standing rigging plan) indicates a single backstay for which the addition of a small stool fitted at drift rail height aft of the Quarter badge is required. I used a deadeye plate fixed to the hull forward of the Quarter Badge, a lot less fussy than a mini stool and a little more secure. The backstay won't be secured for some time yet, but a deadeye stropped to a hook that attaches to the deadeye plate eye will be used. There are sister blocks to be fitted between the first and second shrouds. These were fashioned from some 1mm square boxwood strip, they are pretty small measuring only 7mm long x 0.75mm thick. To assist with the adjustment of the tiny deadeyes for the Mizen top which seem to twist in their orientation I devised this simple tool comprising three pins set into an old paint brush handle to realign the holes. Once I have fitted the Fore Topmast shrouds I will tension the lines, tie off the loose ends, and make look a little more shipshape. B.E.

Having sidetracked a little I now return to the Topmast rigging, looking further at the stays, which are not fitted before the shrouds etc; but the run and any leads need to be established now. Main topmast Preventer stay Main Topmast Preventer - 11" block - 4.36mm -0.5mm line I am using Syren 0.45mm line, the Preventer stay lies below the Topmast stay. Steel refers to use of a thimble (Narrative) and a block (Rigging table) as the lead for the Preventer stay. I have decided to use a block. This is fitted below the hounds on the foremast using served line and fitted as per the topmast block on the Fore masthead. Note the clear line size difference to the Topmast stay which runs down the port side from above. Another trial fit of both stays is required to ensure a clear run thro' the catharpins down to the fixing eyebolts aft of the foremast. Mizen Topmast Stay 3" line (0.38mm line) I will use Morope 0.4mm. There seems to be a range of options for the lead of this stay, and it can be a little confusing, so forgive me if I bore you as I write this stuff down - it helps clear it in my mind. The ffm notes several arrangements but opts for a thimble stropped below the hounds, a further thimble spliced into the stay end which is set up with a lanyard to an eyebolt at the mainmast foot. On my Pegasus, and I suspect others, this presents a real problem of access at this stage to this very confined space to make any sort of competent lashing. According to Steel:- THE MIZEN TOPMAST-STAY reeves through a thimble seized in the bight of the collar that lashes at the fore part of the mainmast, close up to the bibs; a thimble is then spliced in the ends of the stay, which sets up through another thimble (with a laniard) that is spliced in another collar, lashed round the mast as the former, just below the catharpins, with the top-burton-tackle cats-pawed to the laniard. *If with a long pole-head, the same as a topgallant-mast. * My Pegasus is fitted with a normal pole- head (1/5th the length of the topmast) Steel's method looks interesting but involves a little more work to achieve; two stropped thimbles around the mast, a spliced thimble in the stay end once the line has been passed thro' the higher mast thimble above the catharpins, and a lashing between that and the lower mast thimble. ...and Lees Lees doesn't mention this specific method at all, indicating a simpler thimble arrangement (post 1773) whereby the stay is set up with thimbles and a lashing either to the main masthead or an eyebolt in the maintop aft crosstree. From a model makers view this is the least troublesome. I find it puzzling that Steel writing in 1798 only mentions the more complicated method, and also Lever writing in 1811 a similar method. Modern writers such as Lees and Marquardt seem to favour the simpler methods post 1773 which is the era of Pegasus but only just (1776) I couldn't resist having a trial go at the Steel method, as he is the contemporary source. The thimble lashed to the Main mast below the Bibbs, and a thimble is spliced into the stay end once it has passed thro' the lead thimble. This means that the stay will have to be fitted in reverse with the splice around the Mizen mast head being done last. The lower thimble below the catharpins. Not easy to photograph but this shows a line to represent the lanyard that secures the stay. I was concerned to check that the lashing arrangement didn't foul the catharpins. Run of the Topmast stay is clear, and with the mast thimbles already in place I think I will go with the Steel method. The temporary rigging can now be taken down and the process of topmast rigging begin. I think I will start with the Mainmast which will provide a reference to getting the other two masts aligned. First up the tackle pendants. B.E.

A moment to pause - and a little back tracking. Before I begin topmast rigging a moment to check whether any other attachments are required to the lower masts, before I make life more difficult for myself. There are in fact several lead blocks best put into place at this point or indeed earlier. There are lead blocks/thimbles required for the Main topmast, and T'gallant stays, and the Mizen Topmast. A look at the overall rigging plan is a good idea. Oh Dear! Much earlier in the build I had fitted a thimble in a span to the aft trestletrees of the Fore top to take the lanyard for the Main T'Gallant stay. Span as fitted. Unfortunately now I come to fit the block for the Main Topmast stay I find it fouled the lead to the span which is too short to sit above the Topmast lead block. 14" block for the Main Topmast stay seized around the Foremast head as per Steel. THE MAIN-TOPMAST-STAY reeves through a single block, strapped with a long and short leg; the short leg has an eye spliced in it, and fastened round the foremast-head above the rigging; the long leg goes round the mast, and through the eye of the short leg, and is turned back and seized The span had to be removed but this presents a difficult problem for replacing the span as access to the aft trestletrees is not now available. Fortunately there is a cheat mentioned in the ffm where-by a served length of wire is formed into the span the legs of which are glued into drilled holes in the trestletrees. Trial fitting of the replacement span - 0.5mm brass wire served with 0.1mm line. The completed span with a temporary Main Topmast stay and T'Gallant stay in place. I needed to temporarily fit the Topmasts and T'gallant masts to check the clear run of the lines, and at this point I recognised an error that had been staring me in the face for some time. Note: There is a major error on the ffm standing rigging plan. The Main T'gallant stay (17.6) is shown leading to the Foremast head rather than the Fore topmast head. The narrative in the book however is correct, but I note that at least one build has this line leading incorrectly. This is what Steel has to say: Main T'Gallant stay THE MAIN-TOPGALLANT-STAY reeves through a block fastened to the fore-topmast-head, has a thimble turned in the end of the stay, and sets up to a thimble in a span, made fast to the trestle-trees of the fore-mast, with a laniard cats-pawed to the top-burton-tackle, or a handspec: in small ships, termed a Spanish-windlass. CATSPAW, for hooking up shrouds, &c. Lay the end of a rope, or fall, over the standing part and middle of the bight, then turn it three times over both parts, and hook the tackle through both bights. This shows the correct run of the upper Mainmast stays. It is necessary to check the clear run of the Main T'gallant stay thro' the block at the masthead down to the span - it need to miss the Fore top cap. I still have to fit the lead block or thimble for the Main topmast preventer stay, and decide on the fitting I will use for the Mizen Topmast stay. B.E. 12/07/2016

Euphroes and Crowsfeet This is pretty small stuff and the kit supplies 0.5 brass etch Euphroes with a ring one end to attach the tackle block and eight holes contained within an overall length of 10mm.(Fore and Main) The Mizen is smaller with seven holes and a length of 9mm. The ffm indicates a greater number of holes but contained within a shorter length. These are the scale requirements Fore and Main - 16" long (6.35mm) - 11 holes Mizen - 12" long (4.76mm) - 8 holes 2½" thick. (1.0mm) 3"(1.19mm) wide at wider end and 2"(0.80mm) at narrow end. Euphroe tackle 4" single blocks 1.58mm) Strop 1' 6" long (7.14mm) Crowsfeet ¾" line 0.1mm ø line. I make Euphroes by laminating three strips of thin boxwood. The required number of holes are drilled as close together as possible along the strip and a narrower strip is glued to this and the holes redrilled. A third strip is then glued and the holes taken thro' The narrower central strip forms the groove around which the Crowsfeet will be stropped. The Euphroe can then be sanded to shape and thinned down . For the Mizen Euphroe 10mm length is the smallest I could get it containing the eight holes, but I think it looks ok on the model. Stropping the Euphroe - for the tackle blocks I am using Syren 3/32" blocks with 0.20mm strops. Securing the stay block temporarily and getting the process started is a fiddly exercise. The Crowsfeet consist of a long length of Morope 0.1mm line. I roughly measure the required length by taking lengths of one distance between the top and the Euphroe and doubling up the number of passes thro' the Euphroe, that is 16 lengths, with a bit added on. Better to be too long than too short on this exercise. Crowfeet rigging underway. There are three tricky problems associated with rigging Crowsfeet. 1) Getting the crowsfeet nice and taut. 2) Avoiding pulling the stay out of alignment. It is one of my pet niggles to see the stays at an unnatural angle against the pull of the tackle. 3) Avoiding snagging the long length of line on the model as your concentration is engaged on feeding and pulling the line thro' the top holes and Euphroe. This can cause some serious damage to delicate fittings. Completed, I have used a temporary line to hold the Mizen Stay down to counter the pull of the Euphroe. Now the tricky bit, release the tension and the crowsfeet lose their tautness. Attempts to take up the Crowfeet slack results in a distortion of the stay. After fiddling about without a satisfactory result, to cut a long story short I rove and re-rove the Crowsfeet several time before I got something I could live with. A little bit of tweaking the line and painting with diluted wallpaper paste seems to have done the trick. Here's the photo's. The Fore top Crowsfeet. The Main Top Crowsfeet. The Mizen Top Crowsfeet. I am now fairly satisfied with the result.The stays remain all but free of any distortion which is one of my main aims in rigging crowsfeet. I think I can now move on (finally) B.E.

Mast top Rails For these the kit provides brass etched stanchions, which I think look rather thin and are not a good fit into the pre- milled slots in the top. My inclination is for plain wooded stanchions topped with a rail into which they are mortised. I have used 1mm square boxwood strip for the stanchions, and 2mm stuff for the rail. The completed Maintop rail; fairly simple to make but quite delicate, I will need to be careful once I actually fit the rails. Old Bob the Topman carries out an 'elf n'safety check on the Mizen top. Height seems about right. Rails ready for painting. I am yet undecided whether to attach netting. Onto Euphroes and Crowsfeet. B.E.