Blue Ensign

Post Two Bulkheads Fitting the bulkheads is a painless exercise, the one that gave me some concern is the lower stern pattern. (13-1) 3626 Fairing off the model is indicated but in this area it is all about degrees and I worry about how much to do off the model. This is where the lower planking will sweep up to the transom and it needs to be a smooth convex curve without any hint of an angle. 032 This photo of my Pegasus build shows the run of planking and ultimately the fairing can only be done on the model using test planks. For this reason, I will be very careful how much off model sanding I do in this area, and I don’t think I can trust myself with the Dremel. I found that part 13 needed a little light sanding in the slot and several dry fits before it would slide smoothly down the keel to be glued to 13-1. 3679 These things are fragile and cannot be forced into position without the risk of damage. 3677(2) The bow patterns are easier to fit, and will be easier to fair. 3678 With all the bulkheads in place I get my first real impression of the hull size and shape. She is chunkier than Pegasus and is pleasing to my eye. The Bow and Stern bulkheads will now be removed for preliminary fairing, at this point the remainder of the bulkheads are only dry fitted but will probably not require removal again. B.E. 25/08/21

Building the Sphinx - Post One This is where the build starts in earnest, I always start a build with a keel support, partly to hold the hull in the early stages and partly to keep the false keel straight. It also provides a level surface to check square. 3625 3624 3623 This will be modified several times during the course of the build. I don’t intend to do a step-by-step assembly log, there is the excellent manual for that. I do have to mention what a wonderful job Chris and James have done in producing the manual, probably the best I’ve ever seen. My initial view of what I have seen in the box is very positive, I have not concerned myself with checking every part against the parts list as I know Chris will respond to any issues that may crop up. I will restrict this log to commenting on areas where I have had difficulty or found problems (hopefully very few), areas where I have made modifications, and the approach I have taken in tackling different stages of the build where it diverts from the indicated path. Time to introduce bulkheads to false keel. B.E. 24/08/21

10.25hrs this morning and the much anticipated box arrived. Well protected. A feast for the eyes. Looks like there will be no furlough for you Wills, long days in the shipyard ahead. You can relax for a while tho' the stuff needs to be sorted into separate boxes for ease of working. B.E. 24/08/21

The Fully Framed Model, HMN Swan Class Sloops, 1767-1780, by David Antscherl and Greg Herbert, published by Seawatch Books in four volumes. B.E.

Thanks for the heads up Chris, I am a compulsive book buyer; that one looks interesting but will have to wait awhile. I think I'm pretty settled on the shade I want for this particular model, but in practice it's all artistic license, the official colour for topsides on British ships was any colour as long as it's black. The Admiralty order dates back to 12th July 1715, and is cited by L.G.Carr-Laughton in his book Old ship Figure-heads and sterns. This would apply more certainly in relation to a modest ship like Sphinx, but my model will display her with a fetching shade of blue as ground to the friezes , which in practice she probably didn't have either. B.E.

Great planking job you’re doing there Jason. 👍 B.E.

That's an excellent video Richard, and of great value to the modeller. It informs both scale and use of the many fittings, as well as being of general interest. B.E.

The copy I have is the third impression published in 1981, it only has 'Sailing Trawlers' on the spine, but the inside Title page includes the sub title The story of Deep-sea fishing with long line and trawl. My copy was published in Great Britain for David &Charles (Publishers) Ltd, and is published in the USA by David & Charles Inc. It is a 384 page book, and I don't think you need worry whether it is some sort of abridged version, it contains all the plans and rigging tables. It is in exactly the same layout as the companion volume Sailing drifters of which I have the original 1952 version. This volume is of great interest to those building the Fifie and Zulu models, and I used it extensively in my builds. B.E.

You know the old story Chris, the Germans made the rules, the British obeyed the rules, French ignored the rules, and the Italians said rules, what rules. B.E.

Erik, if you can get hold of Sailing Trawlers by Edgar J. March there are details of her scantlings and rigging sizes, together with four pages of plans. B.E.

I wish, and who could resist a day out in The Forest of Dean, our spaniel would love it. 😃

Relief short lived then,🙄 My two bottles bought some time ago have the control numbers K-03-06 on the label. B.E.

Don't bother wrapping it Chris, I'll drive over and pick it up😉 B.E.

I didn't realise that James may have been referring to a different 'Red' I picked up the use of 'flat red' from members who had used it on their builds. I think I first used it back in 2017 on my Model shipways Pinnace build, and have used it on all builds since, latterly on the Royal Barge kit. It always pays to test any paint on a strip of the wood to be used, before applying paint to the model. B.E.

Thanks James for the heads up, I'll keep a watch out for that. 👍 I had a similar issue with Admiralty Red Ochre some years ago, one bottle came out with a distinctly unappealing pink effect. Regards, B.E.

Thinking About colour There are four main colours other than black to be used on the model. Red, Blue, White, Yellow, and shades thereof. On every build I have done the actual shade has exorcised my mind, particularly for the colour blue. I am interested to see how various tones look against the mainly Pearwood finish. 3538(2) This is my rough colour comparison chart painted on a Pearwood background. All I am interested in here is how the colour relates to what will be the bright finish between Wale and Waist rail. The colour selection features paints from Vallejo, Admiralty (Jotika/Caldercraft) and Humbrol. The majority are water based but the Admiralty Red Ochre and Humbrol RAF Blue are oil versions as I didn’t have the acrylic versions to hand. I favour the more muted tones as seen on contemporary models, and I hope with this build I can settle on a colour that does not require mixing as that relieves me of working out a formula for re-mixes. My initial thoughts are:- Vallejo Flat Red - inboard works and some deck fittings. Vallejo Grey/blue - Ground to the Topsides and stern decorations. (Humbrol RAF Blue (96) runs a close second.) Admiralty Yellow Ochre – Frieze decorations, but with other shades of yellow and white for toning and highlights. I don’t intend to use gold on any area of the model. There is a very good section on painting decorative friezes in Volume 11 of the ffm, the techniques of which can be applied to the brass etched versions supplied with the kit to good effect. I am undecided about the lower hull as yet, if it’s good enough I may not paint it at all, but if I do I may need to tone a bright white down a little. This is the last of my musings before that large box hopefully arrives next week and the build begins in earnest. B.E. 21/08/21

Not as many as with Pegasus I hope, this is a very fine offering from Chris. 🙂 Thanks Jason. B.E.

Thank you Jacek, I used the AotS series book The 24-gun Frigate Pandora which gives details of the ships boats rigging. In addition to the Yawl a rigged Pinnace is also shown. I also used Steel's references for the rigging of ships boats for the mast dimensions etc. You will find details of my builds of small boats under the kit build logs 1751-1800 section. (Ships Boats, Page 9, of the log index.) The Yawl build follows on from the Cutter build. Regards, B.E.

I have entertained myself this week building Chuck’s delightful little mini kit of the double Capstan derived from his HMS Winchelsea kit. 3534(3) At 1:48 scale it won’t unfortunately fit the forthcoming Sphinx build but it will sit in her case as an example of such a device of the mid-18th century. I am ahead of the game in one respect, I have already made the 22’ Yawl which will also be supplied with the kit. 610(2) At least one tiny element of the Sphinx build will be rigged. 620(2) 631 I have already decided to have only the Pinnace displayed on the hull so the Yawl too will sit within the case of the completed Sphinx. B.E. 20/08/2021

Hi Glenn, I’ve got an A4 sheet of notes to myself of questions and possible mods, but I need to wait until I see the model before I commit to anything. I’m certainly thinking of minimal deck planking and the addition of Lodging knees, Hanging knees, ledges and carlings. On the hull I’ve mused about the possibility of Open hull framing in the area of the Orlop/ lower deck; the kit does include the Orlop deck and ladderway down from the Lower deck. It’s a very exciting prospect, made more pleasurable by the thought that I don’t have to worry about where to put it, altho’ my younger self would probably have masted and rigged it. Regards, B.E.

Very nice progress Richard. The absence of lower Quarter pieces at the Transom is problematic, and I couldn't live with it, it just doesn't make sense. I had two nibbles at stern modifications before I was more or less happy with the result, it was however a fraught exercise. It's one of those 'time to bite the bullet moments' in a build. B.E.

Looking good Glenn, I always follow the proper planking arrangements for the first layer, I think it gets you into the rhythm for the top layer. Good training also for when builds such as Cheerful or Winnie are taken on where there is no second layer comfort blanket. 🙂 B.E.

Thank you Nils, They are an eclectic mix of sitting figures purchased from Deans Marine. Having separate arms and torso helped the 'conversion' to Royal Watermen of the early 18th century. Unwanted detail was removed using the Dremel, and the tunics were added using Artists modelling paste, Milliput, and styrene strip. These stage photos give you the idea. 3257 3388 3283 Regards, B.E.

Whilst I await the arrival of my next project I have continued to play around with more Watermen figures to people the barge. After much faffing around I decided on six figures as this seemed to give the best balance on the boat without giving an overcluttered look. The figures as with the original oarsman are all derived from various 1:24 scale figures from Deans Marine. In setting the figures the trickiest part is fixing the oars in the vertical position. I had to resort to smearing ca on the palms of the rowers to secure them. I didn’t wish to mar the varnished thwarts, so a thin strip of Blu-tac was used to secure the oarsmen in place. 3422 3423 3413 3425 3438(2) 3437(2) 3411(3) 3398 3401(3) I think I can now declare the model finally finished, time to clear the workroom for the arrival of Sphinx. B.E. 16/08/2021

Great planking job Derek. 👍 B.E.