Landlubber Mike

That wheel looks a lot nicer (and more in scale) than a lot of the pre-fab wooden wheels out there.  I might have to get one for my Pegasus.

I get bored or burned out, so to keep modeling, I start another.  I know others feel differently, but I personally don't care if I finish a model.  In a lot of ways its anticlimactic for me, and I've been more about the journey than the destination anyway.  Plus, I haven't quite figured out where and how I'll store or display my finished models.

For me, I have 3 wooden ships, 3 plastic ships, and another 7 plastic car and plane models in progress.  I'm at the point where almost all the plastic kits are completed, so I'll have to focus on the wooden ships -- or better yet, start another half dozen plastic kits 😬

Depending on the bottle opening and placement, I could see maybe creating two pre-formed sets of railings (one for port other for starboard), and then gluing them on after the ship is inserted.  That might take a lot of dexterity to do though!  Inserting after will avoid bending the rail or crushing the stanchions.

You could always use a stiffer wire like copper for the rail which will set after being bent and resist bending better than brass wire.  That would make it easier to keep the rail in shape when inserting.

What’s hard is securing the stanchions at such small scale, as you can’t really pin them to the hull.  On one I’m currently working on, it didn’t have railings thankfully but I tried using very thin plywood for the bulwarks that I glued to the hull.  Really couldn’t get it to work.  Ended up keeping the bulwarks and hull from a a single piece of wood, and just have to live with the out of scale effect.

Really nice work Glen, nice job!

Railings at this scale, especially in a SIB build, are really tricky.  You can make them to scale, but my guess is that they likely will be so fragile that they won't survive the insertion into the bottle process (the photo etch railings on my 1/350 and 1/700 certainly wouldn't survive the insertion process).  Or you could make them stronger, but likely will be out of scale.  I guess it's a balance.

Looking great Egilman.  Cool that you can see so much engine detail on these!

I happened to come across some new helicopter resin engines , rotors, and other parts that Reskit is putting out.  They look really fantastic.  Not sure if they have any parts for your particular model, but just wanted to pass that along.

Looking great Kevin.  Wow, that's a lot of detail!

Hey Egilman, happy new year!  Glad to see you picking this up again - very cool subject!  Nice job!

Looking great!  Lots of detail for sure!

You should be able to buy generic rails from a variety of manufacturers to replace the ones from your kit.  I wouldn’t be surprised if Flyhawk offers them.

Merry Christmas Glen!  Love the base for your Aurora.  Nicely done!

For what it's worth, for most things, I attach the parts unpainted and then paint when I have the assembly completed.  First use primer (Mr. Surfacer) and then paint - Tamiya, Mr. Color, Vallejo, etc.

For parts I'm going to include at the very end after most of the model is already assembled (e.g., the railings where there is a linoleum or wood deck), I'll prime and paint them while on the fret, attach them, then hand paint to touch up.  It's fairly easy to do touch ups by brush, and I find there isn't too much to touch up.  Once attached, I'll spray a clear coat over the entire model.

I'm on Safari, and doing a force refresh of the home page cleared things up for me.

That worked - thanks James!

Yeah, I just posted with a similar issue - except it's showing me as "Reilly".

Looks great OC.  Really coming together nicely with all those details.

For some reason, Reilly's name is showing up on the MSW homepage for me, but it looks like I'm still logged in.  When I go off the homepage, my name pops up.  

Just wanted to pass that along in case others are having a similar issue.

Looks great Alan!  

Hi Greg, I saw the title and was thinking to myself, "didn't know Hasegawa made that kit??"  Come to find out you're converting the Gambier Bay, very cool! Those pictures with the Ducks and Catalinas look like they would make for a really sweet model.

I have the same kit in the stash with a bunch of the same upgrades.  If you're looking for plane upgrade sets, Infini makes a USN aircraft details set (I think the one I have is IMP-35036R1).  

With the Hasegawa and Flyhawk sets, are you thinking the Infini USN radar set is still necessary?

Nice start King D - looks like a great kit.  I have the Lutsow too and the nets are a little intimidating.  This will be a nice one to cut your teeth on!

Nice work, wow!  
 

On 12/19/2021 at 12:33 PM, jjolls said:

You might want to take a look online at the Beall Collet Chuck for ER32 collets (USA). Designed for full sized lathe woodworkers, Beall makes one threaded to fit on the Sherline lathe. Along with this, I have a set of 25 ER32 collets from Amazon that will hold 1/16" to 13/16" in 1/32" increments. I use it for both wood and metal work.

 

Most collet sets are from Asia... I paid about $65 (mid-range cost) for the set and the collets work fine. The Beall Collet Chuck solved the problem for me!  This may be helpful to someone looking to turn small wood/metal parts without breaking the bank!

 

JJ

As I was reading this I was thinking of suggesting the Beall Collet Chuck for the Sherline as well.  I use it to hold pen blanks when drilling the centers out and it works well.  The collets I picked up on Amazon or eBay, I forget which.  I wasn't particularly concerned about getting super accuracy so Chinese manufactured ones were fine - the ones I managed to pick up a few years ago seem a lot nicer than I was expecting.

39 minutes ago, kurtvd19 said:

SeaWatch Books published a book by Justin Camarata called - Waterline Dioramas: A Modelbuilder's Artform  with a review here on MSW -

It might be out of print but if you can borrow one it will be a good read.

Check the model railroad sites as they do a lot of realistic water.

I have this book and it is fantastic.  Highly recommend it!

Looking really great Ron.  Happy holidays!

I think that's where a Hold and Fold comes in very handy.  It holds the piece in place, while you use a blade to create the bend.  I'll also on occasion use the Tamiya folding pliers (they have two sizes) which work well too, but easier to keep things steady in a Hold and Fold.

Building up really nicely OC.  PE dresses things up nicely.