Landlubber Mike
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Everything posted by Landlubber Mike
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Great job Yves! Thanks for sharing the adventure with us - it demystified a lot of this 3D printing stuff for me. Looks great next to the sub!- 321 replies
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- Flower-class
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Looks great with the decks on OC! I have a few kits with wooden decks. They are adhesive backed - did you find the need to add extra glue? Can I ask what glue you used? I have heard about concerns with decks lifting up, but wasn't sure if that was older decks and they have found the right adhesive to use on newer kits.
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Yves, great job! For the stern area, have you looked at the instruction manual for the kits that are out there? They might be of some help. I have the 1/72 and 1/144 Revell kits if you need any of that info. Someone on Shapeways has a number of Flower Class Corvette detail items too if you're interested.
- 321 replies
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Looking really great Greg. They sure maximized the space on that flat top!
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- Thetis Bay
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Really nice job! Well done!
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Thanks Lou, really appreciate the kind words. Was a real learning experience for sure, which the Shimakaze and Yaeyama are benefiting from. I can already see how the difference in PE work between the Yaeyama and this one. I'm working on what to do about display/storage. So far I have a cabinet in the basement where it's sat for the time being, but my Shimakaze is about done and won't be able to fit.
- 179 replies
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- hatsuzakura
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I'm calling this one officially done. I originally bought this model as a stepping stone to learning how to build plastic ship models with PE sets so that I could do the Hasegawa Shimakaze kit some Justice. It was a good model to learn the ropes on. Now, I'm just about done with the Shimakaze, but wanted to put it in a water diorama setting. So, I pulled out the Hatsuzakura and did my first waterline diorama setting. For the base, I used insulation foam board from Home Depot that I cut using a Proxxon thermocutter. The frame is basswood that I purchased from National Balsa in the widths and thickness I thought would look ok, which I then cut, sanded, and stained (on my next one, I might reduce the height of the base by a 1/4"). The sea was made using the crinkled aluminum foil technique, coupled with using Liquitex heavy gel gloss acrylic medium, and cotton for the white sea spray/wake. I'm pretty happy with how it all came out, though would probably do the wake a little differently next time. Figures were a combination of resin figures from FiveStar and NorthStar. The nice thing about them is that they are already fairly three-dimensional, unlike the PE ones you see from places like Eduard. I saw one model where the builder used Eduard but built up the figures using glued-on cornstarch, but that seemed like a bit too much work for this go around. Thanks for all the interest and help on this log. Really appreciate it!
- 179 replies
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- hatsuzakura
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Looks great Kevin. Are you soldering the PE together? If so, you’ve really gotten the hang of it!
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If you do decide to go with gold, consider Gilder's Paste Wax. You rub it in and if done lightly, you will already get lowlights and highlights. I'm probably going to go this route on the gold accents of my LAR.
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Lou, maybe we should have been kit designers. Our wives think we are perfect and never make mistakes.
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The Mephistopheles is a sweet looking kit. Can do it up as the black version.
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Agree with Lou - really fantastic work!
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Nice catch there Egilman. It is surprising how some of these kits missed what seem to be basic obvious details, got them backwards, etc. Maybe just working off a picture or two, and not as much research? On the other hand, I guess we are spoiled to have kit manufacturers like Wingnut Wings and Zoukei Mura that put in tons of research for accuracy.
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I highly recommend these Micro-Jig Grr-Rippers. The picture below shows it on a full size table saw, but you can get a 1/8” leg and so I use it on my Byrnes saw. Much easier and safer than using push sticks. Another great safety accessory is a cross-cut sled. You can order one from Jim if you have a Byrnes saw. I feel very fortunate to not have suffered an injury thus far. I find it best to first think about the cut and make sure you tick off your safety list. For me, my list includes things like eye protection, where am I standing, appropriate blade height, and visualizing and setting up how am I supporting and pushing the wood through the blade. I always wear short sleeve t shirts and would never wear gloves! I’ve often had to stop myself when thinking to do a “quick cut” to take a step back and make sure the safety y precautions are taken. My guess is rushing and getting too in a groove to the point you’re not fully concentrating are some of the biggest contributors to accidents.
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Another beauty Chris. I still can't believe that it is build from card, amazing work!
- 130 replies
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I really like the effect you are creating with the washes, etc. To me, this avoids the "plastic" look you see on a lot of car models. Nice job!
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Glad to see you back on this Kevin. I've got one in the stash with the GLS upgrade, but need to get my modeling skills cranked up a few notches first. Great job!
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Looking really great! These are going to be spectacular when done. Nice job!
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Ouch sorry Jason, I hadn't scrolled up to read your approach. Thanks for passing it along, very clever!
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Looks really great Jason! Are the planks tapering as they get to the bow? If so, and you don't mind me asking, how are you cutting those planks? On my Pegasus gun deck, I didn't bother tapering the planks at the ends of the deck as they wouldn't be seen, but I'm considering whether to taper them on the upper decks. Haven't quite figured out how to go about doing so, aside from measuring and cutting a very slight taper on one side of the plank, and then squaring the ends.
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